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Everything posted by pilwooleigh

  1. LOL! love the self necro id say its probably worth about $200 at best. LCT G3 came out recently with all steel body so all the retro G3s are washed aside as far as pricing goes. idk whats in this thing, but it really cant be worth all that much with the latest stuff out. good luck
  2. sorry about double reply, can't edit the above for some reason. I just went to black talon website and noticed that there are separate FET unit (external) and a switchboard (internal). I don't really want any of the fancy programmable features, I just want to get rid of the sticky trigger by replacing the traditional unit. Is it possible to use BTC internal trigger board ONLY and hook it up to a home-made mosfet?
  3. im willing to buy it, problem is I can't find one in stock at the moment. I guess I'll wait it out until it becomes available, and use a different gun meanwhile. Thanks for feedback guys .
  4. you see, I don't think its the trolley not moving smoothly. because the "sticking" only happens on low battery, probably ~3-ish hours into gaming, when the battery is about around 7.7 V. which is bad, because that's not even the nominal voltage... that said, I wanna test this theory by changing to an integrated electronic trigger unit, that replaces the traditional trigger assembly. this gun is a version 3 (AK platform), and the only one I was able to find that ships to the US is Jefftron. Do you guys have experience with Jefftron, and would you recommend it?
  5. I meant the trolley doesn't return. when it's "sticky," I can pull the trigger and I hear audible "click click" from the trigger attempting to engage the trolley, but the trolley's already in the "up" position, and no shots. I have to switch to full-auto, pull the trigger (which then shoots), then re-engage to semi. THEN it shoots in semi....until it gets "sticky" again from firing too fast. (PS: it's not the return spring, I already tried replacing it.) my theory is that when the battery is half-charge, the gun can't keep up with the rapid semi-auto fire due to delayed response time. As in, the cycle time for the firing sequence is getting longer and I am releasing the trigger finger prematurely before the gun's had enough time to go through the cycle, and the AB feature is kicking in, forcefully cutting off the motor mid-cycle. and if the above happens RIGHT AFTER the sector gear engages the cutoff lever but RIGHT BEFORE the piston's released, I've got a half-cocked gun with its electricals cut off. does this make sense? and if it does....does that mean getting rid of the AB feature will get rid of the "sticky" semi-auto trigger problem?
  6. does it? I run a particular gun at 7.4V with an AB mosfet that I built myself (I build my guns to last, so over-built the electricals) and I noticed that when rapid firing in semi, especially after the battery's been used a bit, my semi-auto sticks. alot. I have to switch to full-auto, fire a shot(s), then switch back. so I got to thinking about this issue...how do I make it NOT stick? is it even possible? due to space constraints I am forced to use the 7.4V. there simply isn't room for a 3S lipo. There's already a 12:1 gearset and a GP 160 motor in this gun. So I am coming to a conclusion that theres really nothing else that could be done, EXCEPT maybe perhaps AB plays a role in it?
  7. Guges - Totally segway, but yes... I went to your channel and saw your ice pick valve video. Good review, thanks for the info, but I really don't think its a fair test, because you only measured the temperature of the magazine, not the gun. Most of the cold weather hickups with GBBs happen in the nozzle / blowback unit. not the magazine. At least, from my experience... I'm assuming you did that test with a "normal" temperature gun, with just the magazine cold. I say this because.... I did the test myself. Used three different hi-capas. all are TM in various configurations. One is brand new. I gas'd up the mags, insert into gun, and let them get cold in the refrigerator for 2 or so hours. Temperature when taken out was give or take 35-45 F. (not very accurate gauge, only one in hand). I got like 4 shots out of each gun, then the typical gas spewing with slide caught midway. I'm not sure why you love the ice pick so much.....it doesnt work as well as you rave about it.... or am I missing something...? btw, I am not gonna try ur "red gas" method....that stuff is corrosive. and I don't want to clean my gun every time I use it. that being said....methinkgs perhaps HPA is really the only way to use GBBs in the cold (freezing cold).
  8. that's pretty neat! how did you manage the trigger links?
  9. just buy extra mags and call it a day. youre gonna want extra mags anyway if you want to use this gun in a skirmish.
  10. ctnertandairsoft - question for ya, did you touch the motor at all? the thread linked below tells you that any 370-type hobby motor + modified APR 6410A pinion should work as a replacement. so technically you can source yourself a torque-y 370 type motor to make the system work "not as harder" http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/221472-replacement-aep-pinion-gears-and-motors/
  11. im confused....that looks like a low end cyma model. why put all those nice parts in a 028?
  12. I'm not gonna devote a whole day to prove my point to someone on the internet, you're gonna have to take my word for it. choice is yours....if you don't believe it, your loss. source: am a professional engineer [edit] also been airsofting for like 10-ish years.
  13. they typically shoot ~390 with .20s out of the box with no hop. If this is too high... they do have the "quick change" system...which isnt exactly "quick," but at least you don't have to get in the gearbox. Youtube search for tutorial. I mean, if you can afford an SPR, you can afford a twenty dollar M100 spring...right?
  14. First: M4s because everybody and their mothers and grandmothers have M4s. It's a "standard" in airsoft. it's not necessarily better than other platforms. But since everyone has one, you can find everything for it in two minute google search. May not be the case for....say, an STG44 replica. Second: Nickel based batteries are an older technology. Between the Ni-based and Li-based, Li batteries are better in almost every aspect. Biggest factor in cyclic life (how many charge-discharge cycles they can have) is quality of manufacture. So....in terms of the airsoft market, both are shiet (compared to industry standards). Which has "longer life"...depends on who made em (Japanese made tends to be best) using what chemistry (yes, there are thousands of chemical variants to Ni-MH and Li-Poly). Ni batteries "feel" like they last longer because they are more forgiving of abuse. Li- batteries, because of higher hazard risk, have built-in safety features that permanently kill the battery if you screw up once. As for the temperature thing, both have similar operating temperatures, but Li-batteries have better discharge rates in the cold. a healthy cell, Ni or Li, does not "lose" charge in mere hours. this happens over weeks, months, years. Also.... TBBs do increase FPS by tens. you have to get good TBBs though. some shiet (usually cheap) TBBs are more like "choke-bore" barrels and I think they end up causing too much friction because of bad surface finish. Then, yes, not much gain, if at all. Good TBBs typically gives you ~30 FPS boost from stockbore (I'd guess ~6.08 and up, but don't have numbers). [edit] can't use swear words...oops
  15. I have / had all three. question....in your post you said that the G&G uses LCT externals. well, mine didn't. maybe the newer ones do? someone (looks at guges) fill me in on this? based on the G&G I had, which had magnesium-based alloy body, I wouldn't recommend it. it's prone to breakage in the trunnions (just like the CYMA / Dboys VFC-copy lineups). I'd go with the LCT or the EL. between them the build quality is virtually equal. minor detail differences....you won't notice them unless youre a kalashninkov system historian. BUT if you are right and the G&G does comes with LCT externals...I'd pick the G&G. neither the LCT nor the EL come with spectacular internals (they're pretty standard), so it'd make sense to save some money and get the same gun with different branding.
  16. I think its a trend overall for dedicated, single-focus forums. The only ones I see that continually remain active are: 1. tech related forums, esp. comp-sci (ie xda). 2. life-long interest forums (ie photography) 3. profession-related (ie law) Even among those, a few become the "hub" and the rest are dying out as well. A stereotypical airsofter is a 16-year old who plays for 5-ish years and lose interest (at least in the US). We as an overall group do not fall into one of these three categories (emphasis on "AS AN OVERALL GROUP). it's just the nature of the beast, imo.
  17. EVERYTHING OBO Accepts Paypal moneyorder cash...as long as I get paid. x15 G3 110 round midcaps by King Arms x5 are used and well used x10 are practically new capacity advertised by KA to be 110, it's really 80-90 rounds. all mags work just fine as long as you load 80-90 rounds. $100 shipped x9 AK 47 762x39 style 100 round midcaps by MAG used...moderately? 7/10 same story as above: advertised to be 100 rds, its really 80-90 rounds capacity. works fine. $70 shipped
  18. because DMR AK does not exist in factory configuration as standard military issues and airsoft is 99% about impressions. just because you slap on a scope on an AK it doesnt make it a marksmans rifle both 762 and 545 out of standard Russian AKs have pretty miserable accuracy beyond like 300 yards to effectively call it a "DMR" [edit: for marksmans rifle standards, that is] ya it packs a punch, but who cares when your grouping is a mile wide. I understand people still do it and use it as such, all I'm saying is that it's not a true "DMR" Anyhoo, your answer is that it doesnt exist as a standard issue firearm like the modern M14 or the SR25 or the SVD, and thats why most airsofters don't DMR a typical AK. /thread closed
  19. Marui motors in general are actually not the best, they're built to run with 300 FPS springs. They're OK-ish at best. I'd recommend another "hi-torque" type motor that runs off neodymium.
  20. So, Guges, any luck? Also, how long have you been using Propene / do you strip clean your gun + magazine afterwards / has your gun shown signs of wear...etc? [edit] Im kinda convinced I need to buy an AEP if I want a sidearm (with the same form factor as GBB handguns) for winter, UNLESS I go with Propene...which I am sort of hesitant to do....please convince me otherwise?
  21. self shimming gears: not a good idea. any time you allow any kind of flop in a gear mesh, you're going to have a bad day. now, as-is, they'll still will last a while, but it will crap out eventually by contrast a well shimmed traditional set of gears will pretty much never strip on a "normal" AEG (300-400fps at less than 25 rps) unless you keep firing on a jam. you did a good thing by making little bushings on ur lathe and shimming it the "normal" way. your problem: Is electrical. ....and like all electrical things, you just have to troubleshoot every component and pinpoint where the problem is. the circuit is being interrupted / shorted somewhere, and we really can't pinpoint for you without having it physically on us. however, it does sound like your trigger assembly is crapped - both sides of contacts should be ABOUT the same length (+- ~1mm deviation). it might be worth just getting a new trigger assembly, instead of trying to fix it yourself with brass strips. since the contacts are sort of "springy" with the carriage (the moving piece that sandwiches between the two contacts down the middle, that connects to the trigger), unless you have the copper strips with the right temper (in conjunction with thickness), the two contacts are going to fatigue out and give way after a bit, gradually giving you a longer and longer trigger pull. Then you're gonna have to open the gearbox again and bent them inwards again - repeat - again - repeat - it's not gonna be fun. Most commercial copper sheets sold in typical hardware stores are for ducting / ventillation and too soft, not of the right temper for switches - and, assuming you're using spent firearm cartridge brass, neither is it. You might also want to consider getting a MOSFET installed on your circuit. this will save your contacts by reducing the spark (+ deterioration) it sounds like you are quite savvy with garage projects, so it should be fairly easy for you. If your trouble lies with the motor.....I really am not sure if I can help. it could be a million different things. on a side note: while you have the gearbox open, check to see if you have a stock VFC piston in there. (is it transparent with one metal tooth? then it's a stock piston) it is worth replacing, as its made of very soft stuff not really suited for gears / teeth. again, they still last a while - just not as long as others.
  22. .........did you try loading BBs in the magazine?
  23. people don't DMR-ize AK because it doesnt exist in real life. SVDs are for that. people DO make DMR AK because its actually a pretty good platform to do so, at least in airsoft. Unless youre going for realism, I think the AK platform is pretty solid to DMR. -V3 gearbox -stable barrel -decent hopup (you will need to find a way to make the sliding mechanism stay put, however. Not the most stable design when it comes to maintaining hop. this CAN be achieved by simply loosening the screw when you adjust hop, then tightening it down so it doesnt move. but it means u cant really adjust ur hop without a tool) -quite easy to lock semionly - all you have to do is remove the selector lever/gear/safety-thing, then you've removed the full auto function. the only sort-of downside I can think of is the railspace to put a scope on, which all AKs suffer from. but there are plenty options, at extra $$$, which you're probably already thinking about if you're planning on DMR-ing things. go for it ! [edit] one more downside I can think of is if you go full ghillie, you can't prone cuz magazine. bright "faux bakelite" orange also gives you away pretty darn easily to any enemy with a zoom-optic.
  24. that stuff is 160 PSI at room temp.... at freezing 0 C its only 90 psi sources are also saying that stuff is highly corrosive against rubber seals and anything oxidizing not sure if I want to try...
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