Jump to content

to add your 300x250 banner, pay ad zone 5
Airsoft Atlanta is your source for quality airsoft guns and rifle parts
to add your Text Link here, pay ad zone 3

AirsoftAtlanta.com AirsoftNMore.com Airsplat.com AirsoftRC.com
Vote for us to add your 180x30 banner here, pay ad zone 2

If you appreciate this website, please ASF Donation or Check Out the ASF Store. If you can not help us financially,
then at least help us by telling a friend: Share us on your favorite social networking website Bookmark and Share


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About foppo

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 01/03/1990

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Airsoft, Mac, Music, PS3

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    KJW M700 Tanaka M40A1 Star FNC G&P M16A3 CA36K
  1. Not sooo easy. But I drill it and then place the nozzle from the VSR kit into the bolt. To make sure that it's on the right spot I glue it into the bolt and let it in the weapon to dry. So the nozzle is in the exact right position to the chamber. After that I shorten it to the exact right length, by measuring the distance from the entry of the chamber to the HopUp itself. Considering that the BB has to fit exactly between the Nozzle and HopUp.
  2. It works!!! I tried it today! I will write a full review of my test when I found the right setup. But I can tell you all that it works! The BBs have a very similar effect with the curved barrel like hopup! I can't say anything about the accuracy yet because I didn't use HPA and no other tuning either. Just a stock tanaka on gas...
  3. I would be using a gas powerd rifle (HPA). I don´t think vibration is a big factor when using gas rifles. On the other hand: The barrel would have to have 3 fix points. at the tip of the barrel, one at the place where the HopUp is fixed and then the screw that is pushing the barrel into a curve. I don´t think the barrel would vibrate much when the rifle is fired. I think it´s all just a testing thing to find the perfect amount of curve at the perfect amount of pressure and the right weight of BB. But I might be wrong... EDIT: Oh and the old LRB barrels were straight 10mm outer diameter barrels. Only the inner cut was in a curved shape. So we are talking about maximum 0.3 - 0.4mm curve here. That is barely noticable! But they were not adjustable by some kind of screw like in the idea in the first post.
  4. Hello all custom guys out there! I am currently traveling (until june) and got this idea today while sitting in the bus... And I just had to post it here and get some opinions. Please be constructive if you know something about this... answers telling me without explaining that it´s not possible won´t help anyone here... Here the idea: Tune a Tanaka or KJW with all the things needed to make it consistent. Adjustable HPA system included. Add a MadBull Black Python 6.03mm barrel (because it´s plastic and can bend easier) and get rid of the HopUp (seal it or cut it out completely). Now drill a thread somewhere in the middle of the outer barrel (of course it´s going to have to be absolutely vertical to the inner barrel) In this thread you place a screw and something soft to the end of it to not damage the inner barrel. By screwing in this screw you will bend the inner barrel slightly and create a curved barrel (LRB aka Long Range Barrel in the old days). Just for the ones who don´t get it yet: The BB now ´roles´ over the outer side of the curve and gets the ´HopUp´spin effect. This means it would role very consistently without ´bouncing´in the barrel and loosing accuracy on its way. In my mind this creates a much more consistent spin to the BB than a tiny piece of rubber or am I wrong? To clarify it: the adjustable screw has to be push the inner barrel from underneath. It shapes it like a bridge. I can even imagine doing this sideways too to maybe counter winds? I know this is going to be pretty difficult to set up in a game... One would need to make his own tables with the amount of curve the barrel needs at certain strenghts of winds + the distance his target would be at. So let´s leave this point out and concider there is no or hardly any wind out there and we are shooting our rifle to TEST it. So FPS and BB weight are not of any matter. Remember this is an idea. Theoretical nothing else. We now have an adjustable barrel, adjustable pressure and tons of different BB weights. I am just about sure there is some golden point between: speed, weight and curve where a BB can hit massive ranges and still be accurate. Or not? I´m not reinventing the wheel here, I KNOW. But combined with a very accurately adjustable HPA system and the right BBs I can imagine there is a way to make this system reliably accurate at extreme ranges (as we know it did and still does on the classic airsofts). Tell me your thoughts or maybe even experiences with this.
  5. Great idea Brainplay! Saved me the time to translate the text ;-) If there are any questions feel free to just ask here and I'll translate a little better then the google translator.
  6. No I don't sell ready built rifles. People send me their parts and I 'tune' them for them. A get any G&G parts quiet cheap and in maximum 3 weeks after ordering out of Asia. In theory I COULD 'tune' a whole rifle... But don't forget: I'm from Belgium and sending an Airsoft Rifle further then Europe is probably going to make a lot of costs and I'm quiet certain problems as well!
  7. I can confirm that the G&G HupUp Set fits on TANAKA and on KJW Models. I have tested this and it WORKS for BOTH! On the Tanaka the ring that holds the outer barrel fits exactly onto the G&G HopUp Set.
  8. At the moment I have a MadBull Black Python 6,03mm barrel installed. Not the best... but it's ok for its money.
  9. Which rubber part do you mean? Make sure not to drill in too far! If I remember right you have to drill 4mm into the front end of the bolt to fit the nozzle. But best is to take the old bolt and mesure how deep the hole for the nozzle has to be.
  10. Ok DID IT! Went into a friends workshop and heated that nozzle up really really badly... NOTHING... So we just pinched it of and drilled the rest out. After that I installed the King Arms Nozzle that comes with the King Arms VSR Conversion and finished it all off with some loktide. Done. In 48h I will see if it's sealed and testfire it. Conclusion: I am quiet sure (not 100%) that the nozzle in the G&G Powerbolt isn't a one piece nozzle as known in the other bolts (KJW or Tanaka) it's an all-in-one solid block with the rest of the front part of the bolt.
  11. Ok new problem: I got the G&G Powerbolt and have the King Arms VSR Chamber installed in my Tanaka. Now I need to install the King Arms Nozzle in the G&G Powerbolt... I asked some german friend and he told me, when you heat up the bolt the nozzle comes off quiet easy. Apparently it's glued on and by heating it the glue becomes liquid again and you can pull the nozzle out. Ok. So I put the front part of the Powerbolt into the oven for a few minutes until it was so hot that I couldn't touch it with my bare hands. Still no success. It seems like this nozzle is supermonsterglued into the bolt... Any other solutions??
  12. No the G&G one is out of metal of course! I said the KJW and tanaka hub is out of plastic... Exactly what I said in my first post...
  13. Or just get the one from G&G (directly from G&G...just send a Mail and ask for product: G-07-131) I costs 25$ (excluding shipping). IT WILL FIT on the Tanaka Hub (even if G&G Hub this doesn't have any threading on it), I've just tested this! Of course it fits better on KJW models, because these are designed exactly the same way... only they are made out of weak plastic.
  14. I installed my G&G Heavy Fluted Barrel today! I must say it does give a more realistic feeling! (I shoot the Arctic Warfare in the belgian army and know what I am talking about) I installed it on my Tanaka M700 AICS. No need for the connection piece in front of the stock between outer barrel and stock. If the outer barrel is fixed properly the hole upper part of your rifle (including receiver) becomes on solid block.
  15. I got the King Arms Chamber today and went the easy way: I cut the end of the bucking to make it fit onto the barrel. Like only the last 2mm of the bucking that would otherwise need another grove round the barrel. Seems to work perfectly. Thanks for the help anyway... I figured I post my solution, just in case someone would ever need help on this one in the future.
  • Create New...