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foppo

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Everything posted by foppo

  1. Hi Alex! Have you changed anything in the Bolt? Changed the Striker Spring? Check if the 'Pin' holding the Striker Spring is screwed in all the way and that the tiny allen screw in the Cocking Piece is tight. This little allen screw holds the 'Pin' holing the Striker Spring in Place doesn't loosen up after a while. So make sure it's well tightened in!
  2. Well I can only say that my 'work of art' does a good job at camouflaging itself on the field ;-)
  3. The more I read all this, the more I think it's worth trying... What would be the maximum Range a .40g BB would have with 500fps or 550fps (.20g)? And how much would all this change in accuarcy? And what is this system of the curved barrels you wrote about? That is new to me. Why weren't these systems so accurate?
  4. Sorry for the word 'tilting'. It's not the right word for what I mean... I ment shooting the gun in an angle. And for not having to aim far to high I would install the barrel in an upward angle in the rifle. So I would see the BB fly straight up out of my scopes field of view and watch it come back down at a certain distance. Angle the shot. I use a custom HopUp chamber that allows installing AEG barrels and Buckings btw.
  5. Firstly: Sorry, for double posting. But I wanted to bring the Thread back up a little. Now I would like to discuss about Wupjaks idea of not using any HopUp at all. As we all know, HopUp was invented to increase the range of an Airsoft rifle by giving the BB a backspin. Now I noticed, especially for us snipers shooting at longer ranges than others out there, the HopUp is a real issue. Even on a windless, sunny, perfect day, HPA rig (±3fps), a DBC 6,01mm barrel and good BBs the BBs will fly all right. But at a certain distance (let us say about 80m - 260 feet) the BB will spin of slightly to the right or the left or go higher or lower. I know some rifles will have this effect at a shorter or little further distance, depending on the parts that have been upgraded, added. BUT I think I can say this without any doubt: With ANY rifle this effect happens... It is the HopUp. No matter what kind of HopUp we use, no matter what Bucking... this effect is just unavoidable. Now my theory is: Not using any HopUp at all and 'tilting' the barrel inside the outer barrel. Now I haven't tried this yet. But imagine if one could zero the rifle at, lets say 60m - 200feet. Would the BB fly much more consistent and would it be influenced fare less than when the HopUp is touching the BB? How far would one have to 'tilt' the barrel inside the rifle? What kind of range would be possible? I know that one wouldn't be able to see the BB flying in there scope so easily any more. But if I point my crosshairs at a certain point at 60m and pull the trigger and SEE that the BB actually hits the point I am aiming at... well who cares seeing the BB or not then? I don't know if this is a good idea or not... But I think it's worth trying in any case! Tell me what you think and if you have ever tried this or are planning on trying this.
  6. Could you upload a picture of this please? Do you have to modify the steel part, or the bolt itself?
  7. Well I ordered the Steel Bolt Handle... hope it will be the solution to my problem! As for the Bucking I will try a few different ones and will post some time in the future what I think about them. But what do you mean with the "Real steel M700 BDL short action stocks"??? what is that?
  8. Wouw, I didn't even know there was a steel bolt handle for Tanaka rifles! Is it available somewhere on the planet though? And no, the steel parts are not wearing down, but just all the other parts, that the steel parts are in contact with...
  9. Hello everyone! I own a Tanaka M700 AICS with following upgrades: - CNC Aluminum HopUp Chamber that allows me installing AEG buckings and AEG barrels. (Custom made by a friend) - DBC 650x 6,01mm barrel - a MadBull Bucking which I wish to replace some time - G&G Striker Spring - G&G Steel cocking piece - G&G Knock Arm and Plunger set installed in my magazine - custom Nozzle - external HPA Setup Now because of some of the parts still being "stock" these parts are wearing down rather badly. I'd like to know if someone out there knows some guy, how will make me reenforced/new parts for my baby? I am prepared to pay a fair price for good work, if someone will offer me this! The part that makes most problems at the moment, is the "cocking Arm" (the part that pushes back the Cocking Piece, when you turn it with you hand). There where it comes in contact with the cocking piece it has worn down so baldy that the angel has become so tight, that it wont push back the cocking piece anymore. This means I really have to force it very badly... The other part that is suffering a lot, it the Hammer... It just can't stand the pressure the Cocking Piece puts onto it, when the trigger is pulled and is starting to wear down so baldy that the Cocking Piece just slides over it. And all I get is a 'Click' and no shot at all... I have set my HPA System to maximum 600fps with .20g BBs. So there isn't all that much more pressure on the system then normal... I usually use .40g Blaster Devil (MadBull) munition though. Oh and what HopUp bucking do you recommend? I know there are a lot of different opinions about this out there, but I would like to hear a few opinions to make my own conclusion. I greatly appreciate any helpful answer! Greetings from Belgium ;-)
  10. Just take a Photo of the front of your nozzle. And upload it here, then we can tell you...
  11. Well it can't be the nozzle... I just checked that... it pushes the BB exactly in front of the bucking... (maybe that is the solution though - I mean can it be, that the BB needs some acceleration BEFORE it touches the bucking?) But I cleaned the barrel and the bucking this evening and found out that there was a lot of greasy, blackish, dirty something in there... That might actually have solved the problem... But sadly enough it's dark now (2230PM in Belgium) so I can't see the BBs fly. I'll let you know as soon as I can... But I don't want to be negative... but somehow I'm doubting that this is the solution to my problem... Well... we'll see... ***EDIT*** Well as it seems, all the greasy, blackish, dirty something in my barrel and HopUp were the source of the problem! I'm still not absolutely 100% sure, because it was really hard to see the BBs fly here because the weather wasn't really ideal... But I'm quiet sure to have seen some BBs flying crazy high right out of the top of my scope... The other solution could have been, that I had the HopUp to far in... and so it didn't give the BB any spin at all... it just slowed it down seriously... But I'm not quiet sure about that theory though.
  12. Bought myself a Tanaka M700 AICS. Built in all the stuff I had for my Tanaka M40A1 (there's a Thread around here somewhere). I'll just put in a short list: - Aluminum HopUp chamber so it can take AEG Barrels (self made) - 6,01mm 650mm DBC Barrel - Bolt with Steel Cocking Piece and self made nozzle out of plastic and G&G Striker Spring - G&G Plunger and Knock Arm in long mag Ok here is my problem: When I shoot my Tanaka the HopUp just doesn't make the BBs spin. Even if turned right in, the BBs don't spin UP at all. They just go slower and fall earlyer as if the HopUp just slows them down... Now luckily I have a Tanaka M40A1 and a KJW M700P to switch parts and find the source of my problem. So that's exactly what I did. I took the original KJW HopUp chamber and used a MadBull 6,03mm barrel. didn't change a thing I took the KJW HopUp chamber and used the DBC 6,01mm barrel. didn't change a thing I tested .23gr BBs and .43gr BBs... no difference I tested several HopUp buckings I tested several nozzle lengths and types (plastic, metal) The only thing I haven't tried yet is the original bucking with original barrel. Even if that would solve the problem. I wouldn't be happy... because that would make my 6,01mm barrel and the self made Aluminum HopUp chamber useless... The only solution that I still have, is that the buckings are to new and just don't have any effect on the BB yet... But I think it's rather strange... even a really new HopUp should work a little or not??? In my case they bucking doesn't even have any effect AT ALL! This is really killing my motivation of making a Gas Sniper Airsoft that is reliable at 100m (300')... Because I KNOW, that with the parts and tuning I am doing to the rifle, it WILL be able of doing exactly that! PLEASE HELP ME! WHAT COULD THE PROBLEM BE??? Now the thing is: I read a really interesting Thread quiet a while ago wrote by some guy called Wupjak (I think he works together with Mike from Right Hook Fabrications... but whatever...) He was one of the guys that went through all this HPA tuning and all the rest and he was kind enough to right it all down into some forum. And he was recommending NOT to use the HopUp at all once you're going with HPA. He figured that now HopUp at all would make the BBs trajectory more stable... Now I will be using HPA very soon (still going with CO2, but just can't stand the amount of O-Rings it keeps freezing and so making the system leaky). But without HopUp you wouldn't be shooting a straight trajectory anymore... you would have to lob the BB (quiet extremely I imagine). Would do you guys think about that theory? Well if I can't get the HopUp to work then I'll try going without and lobbing...
  13. <AT>Brainplay: Even if our answers consist nearly the same info it never does any harm though! Anyway nearly all the knowledge I have is based on your info. So even if I try to answer you'd probably give a better answer. Sorry for the Off Topic but I felt like saying this...
  14. Well for a HPA-CO2 Kit there is no difference at all between HPA or CO2. HPA just has a much higher input pressure. But as you will have to regulate it down anyway it doesn't change anything. A gauge between 0-300psi is exactly what you need. You won't ever play with more than 300psi in your HPA/CO2 setup! I don't really understand what you mean with any lower than 0-300psi though? The Tanaka Long mags shouldn't make any difference... Because the are actually only a type of "open connection" to the rest of the HPA/CO2 setup. So what really affects the amount of gas coming out of the mag into the bolt and then onto the BB is the striker spring in the bolt. And not the amount of gas IN the mag... I also had exactly this problem with liquid CO2 coming into my regulator. It killed an O-ring. I recommend not to hold the CO2 cartridge "upside down" because like this the liquid CO2 runs into the system and do exactly what it did to my regulator... Here I can't really help, because I don't really know what a 12gr Quick Changer is and even if, I can't understand why you should need that? I can only say that I get about 50 shots with 1 CO2 12gr cartridge at 120psi.
  15. Well that is nice to know... I'll run down to my PaintBall Shop this weekend and tell them to shoot a few thousand shots trough it then Just a stupid little question: does the Tanaka M700 AICS have the same "upper" part then the M40A1 and the M700? I mean is the Bolt, HopUp, Barrel and so on the same? Because I can only get an M700 AICS at the moment... And I have some quiet custom parts in my M40A1 that I would then like to put into the AICS... My main concern ist this the custom HopUp Chamber. It was made for the M40A1 which means it fits perfectly into the piece holding the chamber... Now if I could use the "holding" piece in the AICS everything would be ok... And I can imagine that it would be easier to build in the co2 system into the AICS because you can take the stock apart. And I would think there is more space in the AICS stock or not?
  16. OK. Lets continue on this Topic, as it is "mine" and will add some stuff to the topic... Ok here we go: I finally finished my CO2 System and installed it onto the Mag and started testing it. (At the moment my Tanaka is a little dead... It's basically just worn out. New one is ordered and should arrive some time this week - so because of this I tested the CO2 System on my KJW M700P with stock HopUp, 6,03mm Barrel, Striker Spring) The mag I used has the G&G Plunger built in. (stock Knock arm,because I had the valve opening even when in not-compressed-mode with the G&G Knock Arm) OK to keep it short I'll just post some FPS measurements at 100psi. MadBull .40g BBs, at about 20°C temperature and NO HopUp. 1. 487,2 fps 2. 487,2 fps 3. 498,2 fps 4. 491,3 fps 5. 486,6 fps 6. 492,0 fps 7. 483,4 fps 8. 491,0 fps 9. 488,1 fps 10. 491,7 fps 11. 493,0 fps 12. 488,8 fps 13. 495,6 fps 14. 483,7 fps 15. 495,9 fps 16. 493,9 fps 17. 492,3 fps 18. 493,3 fps 19. 498,2 fps 20. 493,6 fps 21. 493,0 fps 22. 493,9 fps 23. 497,9 fps 24. 496,5 fps 25. 491,0 fps 26. 492,3 fps 27. 492,3 fps 28. 496,5 fps 29. 497,5 fps 30. 503,5 fps 31. 508,7 fps 32. 507,0 fps 33. 486,9 fps 34. 500,2 fps 35. 509,7 fps 36. 479,4 fps 37. 437,2 fps 38. 402,0 fps 39. 352,0 fps 40. 329,4 fps Ø (1. - 35.): 493,6 fps (the last ones I left out, because here the CO2 cartridge was going empty) max: 509,7 fps min: 483,4 fps Now I'm not really happy about that, because I have seen other people doing better... The reason why my system performs like this could be following: - It's the KJW... not my Tanaka with all it's tuning. Although the KJW is perfectly all right with normal Airsoft Gas! - I noticed 2 brighter BBs in my MadBull BBs that I used. These where leaving the barrel at about 560fps... which means the are not as heavy as the should be. So concluding I could say that the other BBs aren't all .40g either... (any experience with these BBs out there?) It can't be the CO2 System leaking... because it doesn't... Now my plans are to test other BBs. I ordered .40 King Arms BBs (anyone any experience with these BBs?) and will test these... I hope that I the solution to my Problem... That would be the easiest and cheapest way! Now I also have news plans of installing the CO2 System into the Tanaka stock. I was hoping to going to install it, so that I could just screw the CO2 capsule in form somewhere "underneath" and make a hole on the side, or top for the pressure gauge to be visible. Also I'd make a small hole so I can adjust the pressure without having to take the rubber endpiece of the rifles stock. But more plans on this will come soon. All this will still take some planning and drawing too...
  17. I was thinking the same thing... You might have forgotten to build the 2nd spring that's in the bolt back in when you reassembled it? Can you push the Hammer with your finger? Or is it blocked completely when the Tanaka bolt is used? I can also imagine, by shortening the piece that holds the cocking piece you made the Cocking Piece stay a little forward all the time, so that would mean it's pushing the hammer all the time, which would explain why it stays "blocked"...
  18. please delete topic... problem solved!
  19. Thanks allot! That really helped me!
  20. The barrel looks out about 1cm out of the outer barrel. I don't have it here right now to measure it exactly... Here the shop description where I bought it from: "DBC HP Barrel 6,01mm Tanaka M700, AICS M40" length I can't find out right now... I think it doesn't fit because of the custom HopUp chamber. But I think ill just cut it down so it will fit... About free floating barrel I'll stay with a spacer in the barrel and be happy for the time being...
  21. Well that does help me! But sadly I must say I can't compare this kind of rifle with a real one... Because I havnt had the chance to hold be of these in my hands yet! (might change in near future... Good chances that I become the "sniper" in my section in the Belgian army soon. Wich means AW338;-) but that's a different story...) till then I'll do with simple barrel spacers I think... They only help I need now is HOW to build in the G&G Power Pack...
  22. Well doesn't seem like I need a stronger StrikerSpring then... Well that's always a little part I can change if needed. Well the silencer adapter is a little to big. I mean it doesn't fit into the outer barrel... What PSI do you need to get your 800fps with the G&G Striker Spring? Can you tell me more about the advantages of the G&G Heavy barrel? I read that it has a 6,04mm barrel inside... Well I have a DBC 6,01mm... wouldn't that be the wrong thing to do then?? And anyone can help me on the G&G Power Pack??
  23. Well because my Tanaka M40a1 is becoming very custom and because I still have a few unanswered questions about it I figuered it is the best to start a new topic on that! Firstly I'll list up my modifcations on my rifle: 1. Custom HopUp Chamber the allows me to fit AEG barrels. This chamber is made out of aluminium by a friend who -IMO- is very good at his job. He made the chamber for me so it would exactly fit into the parts surrounding it. There is absolutly no wobble, moving or play at all. It is made out of one block so it seals up the system perfectly! Allowing me to fit any AEG barrel I come to my second tuning: 2. DBC 6,01mm barrel. Right now I can't remember the lenght of the barrel. I'll search that up later! 3. G&G HopUp rubber. (very hard) 4. G&G StrikerSpring. This one I will replace by a much harder spring though! Because my future plans (CO2 System) will need an even stronger StrikerSpring. 5. G&G Power Pack. I haven't built this one in yet and I'm not 100% sure where all the parts go. Ok the StrikerSpring is built in but the other parts (for the mag I suppose) haven't been built in yet... =>some help and advice here?!? 6. Custom Steel Impact Plates. These are made by an other friend. He sent them to me the other day. They will arrive some time this week. 7. CO2 System. Well this is the main reason why I opened my own topic because I felt I was overfilling an other topic with my questions about this CO2 tuning. At the moment I'm waiting formy 2-Liter AKA regulator to arrive. All the other parts I have ready and set up! I'll let you guys know more when it's ready to go and set up! For anyother info on my CO2 System check the topic called: "A Listof cheap, affordable regulators" by Brainplay! I filled hat topic with my first fiew questions about a CO2 System. Ok guys, let me know what you think about my setup and tell me what I should/could change/add to make my tanaka baby even more powerfull and consistant! A first question: my barrel is to long. It won't fit inside the outer barrel. So I will have to get some kind of extention for the outer barrel. I.E. a silencer adapter + silencer. Now I do have exactly this on my KJW m700p and I tried to fit it into the outer barrel of the tanaka...but it only just won't fit... What can I do? Any alternative? Second question: what does a free floating barrel mean? And would this be a good thing to doto me tanaka?? Thanks in advance for any helpful answer! Greetings from Belgium Foppo
  24. My regulator has arrived at my post office yesterday. On Saturday I will go and get it and I'll finally be able to build my CO2 system :-) I'll let you guys know as soon as I have results ;-)
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