Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Stevorino

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  1. Great stuff man - this is all what we were leaning towards after session #1. We were considering rotating 'leaders' and 'roles' per game to those who wanted the job. I'm probably one of the guys most suited for it, but unfortunately I'd rather let someone else handle it :P I love the idea of one guy being tied into comm. In regards to the angles - do you set each person always looking to the left/right/back/forward or do you change it throughout game/based on circumstance? I know this is getting a little particular, just trying to get some best practices so we have it nailed down next time.
  2. Hey all - Me and my buddies (all young adults in 20's) usually play small games out in the woods where everyone knows each other (usually somewhere between 10-12 players). We recently tried going to a field for the first time and were pretty overwhelmed on multiple fronts (field is 80+ acres, lots of vets & serious players, and well over 120 people attended). All of that being said, the biggest issue we ran into was keeping our own squad of 6 guys together and focused. We had a hard time on deciding 'what to do next' and consistently broke into pairs and divided. By the end of it, we had spent more time bunkering down waiting to reunite than actually getting into the action. I'd love some advice for our upcoming return to the field. We do have radio headsets and we will have 6-7 guys. The field is once again 80+ acres - lots of woodlands play with bunkers, buildings, and trails sprinkled throughout. We do NOT know the overall field very well. Specific questions: 1) What do you do with your radio channel when your 'squad' is a subset of dozens of players on the same team. Same channel as main team, private squad channel, have some on main channel some on squad channel? 2) How do you keep your team focused on the same objective/in agreement? Set leader(s)? Decide beforehand and stick to plan? 3) Do you set a certain formation you try to hold? Ex: Certain people in front/in back/ looking certain ways/protect medic when applicable? 4) Any general tips you have found to be very useful for in-game or between games at an airfield? Thanks guys!
  3. Thanks for the great feedback everyone - I've been out of town since posting and will be trying these tips in the coming days. Will report back!
  4. Sorry for the confusion. The clicking sound in semi-auto happens all of the time, even when the battery is disconnected. Since rebuilding the gearbox, I have not pulled the trigger with both the gun set to semi-auto and the battery plugged in. Both 'tests' when I got the winding noise was when the gun was in full-auto.
  5. So last weekend I decided I'd be a badass and do some shim work on my gearbox (never previously opened a gearbox). Long story short - after 5+ hours of tinkering, I finally got this gearbox back together... but it doesn't seem to work. NOTE: I am not completely reassembling the gun when test firing (I assume this is fine). This is what my testing setup looks like: Two things are happening that I can't figure out: 1) When I pull the trigger in semi-auto mode, it is making a clicking noise. I have identified that the black piece of plastic pushed forward by the silver part of the trigger assembly is snapping back at the end of the trigger pull. It was not doing this pre-disassembly. Anyway to fix this? I never shoot this gun in semi-auto anyways, so if it's really not an issue, I'm fine not addressing it. It does not happen in full auto. 2) When I have the gun assembled as shown above, and pull the trigger for the first time, I hear a high pitched winding noise that maybe lasts half a second, then nothing else. I can pull the trigger again and no noise. Any ideas? Being my first gearbox reassembly, I think I did a decent job. Thoughts of what could be wrong?
  6. I've been looking at KWA, but would consider a G&G and WE depending on the model. Would pay extra for a magazine or two. I know this is a bit low - but if it's not a great deal, I'd rather buy new.
  7. Because you asked for feedback: I love the whole mystery box concept and want to be a buyer in one. My only issue is that they are generally geared towards either people who have tons of cash to spend on airsoft or people who love hoarding airsoft gear. I'd love to see more focused mystery boxes - like a 'gas pistol' mystery box for $100 where you are guaranteed to come away with at least a quality gas pistol - gun/brand/extras is what the surprise is. Just my 2 cents :)
  8. Ended up just buying a new pball mask. Figured I'd rather spend the same amount of money and not deal with the tinkering :)
  9. Preface: I know that mesh isn't 110% reliable, I would never put it over my eyes. So I have an old school PBall Mask that I'm thinking about all out replacing, but recently I've come up with the idea of buying something like this lower-face Mesh Guard and modding it onto my mask. http://www.airsplat.com/Items/AC-APP-TGMASK-S.htm The theory here is that by putting mesh over the lower face, my breath will escape the mask instead of fogging up my lens. My current setup fogs up within 1 minute of play - I've tried the no-fog sprays and have hated them - it seems to just put a big smear across the lens. Thoughts?
  10. I use the term 'DMR' very loosely here. I understand to get the gun to shoot like a true DMR, it takes a lot of work. I simply want an AEG that gets me as close as possible without compromising the integrity of the internals and burning a hole in my wallet.
  11. Facts going into this decision: 1) I play about 5-6 times a year, all with the same group of 8-10 guys in the woods. I don't intend to go to an airsoft field to play or play in true CQC. If that changes, I'd likely buy a new CQC gun for it. 2) I currently have a Galaxy MP5k - I've enjoyed it. My biggest issues are a lack of accuracy at 40+ feet and how easily it jams up. I absolutely hate having a strategic placement and not being able to execute because my bb's are soaring over my target's head. 3) My budget is $200 + battery and extra mag or two. I'd like to drop $20-$50 every 6 months or so on upgrades/repairs. 4) I'm wanting this gun to last a LONG time. While I've enjoyed the galaxy, it's given me considerable problems for only putting around 10k bb's through it. I want something that will last 5+ years given my spending budget above for repairs. I don't mind getting in there and fixing stuff, but I want it to be a solid, reliable gun that isn't constantly needing TLC to simply load a magazine or shoot straight. Based on all of that, I've really settled down on a DMR-type weapon. I want a fully automatic assault rifle with impressive accuracy at longer ranges that has a good selection of upgrades/parts available. I want to achieve this without compromising the longevity of the weapon by introducing overbearing upgrades (ex: stronger springs that increase range but break down gun faster). Here are my favorite two choices so far (prices after 19% promotion discount): $194 --- A&K Full Metal SPR MOD0 (Long) http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=3168 $202 --- JG Full Metal SR-25 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=7641 As you can see, I like the idea of full metal - I'm not sure I'll get around to external upgrades if I don't do it now. I also like the rail systems for adding on goodies, but not sure if an RIS is overboard or not.... The other question I keep asking myself is why doesn't everyone go for a DMR build? It seems pretty ideal to me (accurate range + full auto = pretty good combination)....is it mainly that most people end up playing CQC and want a more compact weapon? I'm open to any other suggestions at the same price level or cheaper. Thanks in advance!
  12. Ah, I see. Evike was down when I was searching - that's the only place I could find sub-$200 Full Metal JG M4's. http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Exclusive_.../jg-fb-6613.htm That's the one I found. I wonder - is the 2011 version posted here worth the extra $100 in costs? Looks to me like the only major differences are the RIS and MOSFET chip. What exactly is an 'S-System Mechbox'? Here's what seems to be the 2010 JG Metal M4 http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=32233 $100 price difference...yikes!
  13. Looked around on teh interwebz and saw some good looking fullmetal JG's out there - surprised they are so much more expensive. Around $100 more!
  14. I'm still slightly puzzled on the D-Boys stuff. I was just shopping external parts - many of them blow the cost of buying the actual gun out of the water. Is JG THAT much better than D-Boy in the internals? It seems that if a shim job and a couple of tweaks will put a JG gun in the same category as a KWA, D-Boy wouldn't be that different.
  15. sweet - I'll play around with those tweaks on my galaxy this upcoming week and see how comfortable I am with the process before committing to this upgrade idea. Now the next question - M4 or M16? 100% of my airsoft is and will be in the woods.
  • Create New...