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Everything posted by azulueta

  1. Not to bump this but I see the OP didn't really change what I was trying to mention before. I am pretty sure you have it wrong... G&P Sr25 Originals were V2.5 (very few made) Then they start to make the new ones and the CNC ones and these are all 8mm V2 Gearboxes. G&P does not make the V2.5 7mm Gearbox anymore.
  2. With a M150/Sp140, and decently good compression, you should be around 500-530fps, Go with that.
  3. I have had 0 issues. I think the quality of the Bio BB matters the most. Example, I ALWAYS used Bioval bb's in my guns, I even wash my 0.40g and lower weights and let them air dry then seal them back up and put them in a cool dark area (like my closet) they have been sitting like that for years and there is no noticeable difference. Honestly, any heavy weights (regardless of bio or not) tend to rub off easily on the bucking, King Arms/Madbull/BB Bstrd all rubbed off VERY easily. The only heavy bb that I had trouble with the scratch test on was the GoldenBall heavy weights(they didn't rub off without lots of force). As far as BB's less then say 0.36g, I washed those bios too and never had issues with the Bioshot (old formula) or Biovals.
  4. I am pretty sure he does as this is what he had in his url: G&G CM16 Raider-S Airsoft GBB Gas Blowback Rifle - Tan If you are able, I would just grab something simple, like a JG M16 and start from there, lots of the stock JG parts you will be using, so only a few things would need replaced if are looking for a budget build.
  5. I "thought" the SVD didn't have an extended gearbox, but I was beginning to think that I had originally thought wrong (confusing statement... I know). Thanks for clarifying. The hop up unit area makes a lot of sense too judging from what I have seen. I didn't know half this stuff and here I try to make myself knowledgeable about the three great Airsoft DMR models (SVD, PSG-1, SR25)
  6. Keep us posted. I am very interested to see a 0.40g Bio --->WHITE <--- BB or even the 0.43g neon green. Cut them open and such when you get them/scratch test/whatever :) .
  7. I stopped posting and being active on these forums in Fall 2011, I think I made 4 posts since then. I felt like I was just repeating myself on every BB thread and DMR thread and just got bored. However, I do feel inadequate with my low poasting
  8. Well it is true, right now with the current materials most mass distributors have, they have to use certain materials to make a 6mm pellet more dense which just happens to be of a darker nature.
  9. Hey guys, its been a LONG time since I posted, but a few things brought me back, one of the main ones was the lack of high quality heavy weight bb's. Bioval has almost vanished off the market, their heavy weights are definitely gone, their 0.40g's are very hard to find if you can even find them. The BB Bastrd company has ceased production on their heavy weights, in a conversation with them they said they stopped production while they are working on their formula to perfect them. Those were the only two companies I really trusted for Tan 0.40g. Goldenball 0.40g are very accurate and very well constructed, they are a ball bearing company so naturally they are a very good choice. The last choices you may be left with are the King Arms/Madbull (same OEM) and most of those are running out of stock and they are.....my last choice...... I was going to test Hailstorm, but funds limited me.....and the Bioshot heavy weights didn't impress me past 0.32g. Its not looking good guys.... EDIT: For censoring.
  10. That HS5 guy. He is not gud at tech. dun trust him
  11. In the ORIGINAL G&P SR25 which I am pretty sure isn't mentioned here, it has the Semi-Auto Only and the V2.5 Gearbox but there was only a limited amount made and not many of them are to be found. I was searching forever for mine which I finally found someone selling one that they bought around 4 years ago so it is one of the true originals. Cost me a crap load of money but its the one airsoft gun I don't think I can part from due to my love of SR25's and its rarity. Also last time I checked the new G&P's only have V2 gearboxes and a good indicator is that the ones with V2.0's have the Automatic Option. I haven't looked at my signature in awhile as I have not been on the forums for months and not been active for a year or so but I believe I have my DMR's thread in it. As you can see from some of the photos that is what the original G&P SR25 looked like. Similar to the new ones to an extent.
  12. An Update. The AOE is corrected, shimming is perfect :) compression should still be sexy. Tuning the ER-Hop should be coming next :)
  13. Alright its been awhile but... Anyways, the best that can be given is a ball park as even with the R-Hop and such; you REALLY need DIY mods done for max accuracy at extreme ranges but I can ballpark things for you. For your RS SVD I would use 0.40g and I would estimate...your range to be 300-350 feet. Effective range: 250-300 feet ( I have no idea what your mods are). r700 use 0.40g for visibility. For best weight at that fps I would use 0.43g. Range being very similar to your DMR but effective range being very similar to the estimated regular range unlike your DMR. Ballparks are my account and experience. However remember, Effective range matters MUCH more. Doesn't matter if someone can hit 400 feet if they can't hit it with acceptable accuracy. Rarely in the sport of airsoft do people engage others at 300 feet+ anyways. Hardly any at 200 feet+. The most common engagement distance would be around < 150 feet. Case in point, your DIY mods will determine your accuracy. For example on my DMR I managed to get 7/10 hits on a chest target at 350 feet. At 300 feet I had 10/10 on an Oreo Container. BB quality right now is our limiting factor. We as techs have manged to get our airsoft replicas up to a certain peak and we really need our BB's to get there as well. And lets not forget how much Mother Nature plays her part. Even a slight breeze acting on your BB will mess with it. You may not think much of it but if your target is at 100 feet imagine the wind affecting it for say... X seconds. 200 feet may be X+X seconds and 300 feet may be X+X+X seconds. The longer its in the air the more that will affect it. Sorry for the rant I am just trying to give you an idea of what to expect and why so that you will really know what you need to do as far as compensation and your personal tactics are (firing multiple quick DMR shots, firing one then compensating...etc..)
  14. I cannot vouch for the R-Hop just yet as I have not used it in a skrim not have I had time to really sight my SPR with it in. However, I am thinking/debating attending an event tomorrow that would allow me to use it a lot. Some tests thus far are putting it : 330fps with 0.20g and targets have been tagged in the 250 feet range using 0.28g and 0.30g with acceptable accuracy. However on my DMR using the Flat Hop, 350 feet was easy and the bbs went well past this point I just never tried to measure as such shots in airsoft games never are given the chance to occur; case in point, it would be a waste. I have the ER-Hop in a separate barrel/hop up and I am looking forward to seeing how much better it really is. Though my time is severely limited. My main point is, the theory behind an increased contact time DOES in fact increase range at the very least.
  15. Its been awhile so I have a slight update. Again I hardly get on this forum anymore for multiple reasons: one being my goal of maxing out my DMR had came to fruition last summer with the 350 feet + shots (I never tested further but they kept going). Anyways, Major9 who was working on this for me since my housing took a firm stance on my gun and I was running out of areas to work on it and time unlike what I had in the summer; ran out of time himself. Therefore, I transferred it over to my good friend Star :) who I trust to do an excellent job. My biggest regret is that I cannot continue to work on it myself...with Electrical Engineering continuing to consume myself I find myself with very little time. The last airsoft game I attended was in September of last year :(. In any case, the main point is; it will get finished up at some point. What was happening was the ER-Hop being completed and tuned for it and I can finally test it against the Flat Hop as I have 2 different barrel and hop up configs. Keep up the good airsoft tech work guys; sorry I can't join in at all anymore.
  16. Very late response. Lets just say I was not well funded and still am not in the best position to experiement with them right now. I will just stick to Bioval 0.40g but they seem to be sold our at most reasonable places. BB bastrd 0.40g could be a choice but shipping is...ugh.. So I may just use Madbull/King Arms but I am not too fond of them. So its going to be either Bioval or Hailstorm/Goldenball 0.38g/0.40g but I would need to specially sight those two and I feel like being lazy
  17. As far as the SR25 is concerned, seeing as I don't know exactly what parts you have and I can't really see your shimming/AOE spacing and thus trust your judgement that you are doing it correctly I can only offer two views: View 1: I had issues with high pitched sounds at first with my SR25 but it turned out it was because the TM Grip didn't fit good against the G&P body and after getting a G&P Pistol grip for it it helped a ton. View 2: There is still a slight whine but the shimming is "perfect" as is AOE. Case in point, sometimes high powered motors with very strong springs just have that whine. It may not be a fact but it has occurred in all my identical DMR setups as most are using a very powerful motor (G&P M180 Satan) and a very strong spring, in this case it was PSG-1 SP150, equivalent of an M170-180ish (V2.5 GB I am sure you understand). Its not my tech either as inspection of the pinion gear and other gears on various models has shown no signs of wear. Though tbh, I did kill a piston after a 2 day game, it broke the back tooth, it was the 45$ Systema PSG-1 Aluminum Piston as well. My AOE was good, it had been checked multiple times (as is always necessary in DMR builds). Personally I just think that it was too much for that back tooth, so I bought a piston with a full metal rack and this should alleviate my problems. Just some of my own personal experience, I hope it helps :) its really hard to pinpoint your problem without actually being there. The most we can do is offer our best guesses. Good luck! Keep us posted!
  18. For my extreme DMR's I usually prefer using Bioval 0.40g. If those are not instock and you actually are precise with your shots (are not spamming the trigger) I suggest buying BB Bastrd 0.40g. They are Tan and now that they are out of their "test batches" they have decreased in price. The only trick is that shipping from Canada isn't the nicest thing you will meet. I highly recommend those two brands. If not them then my third choice would be Goldenball 0.40g as they have provided me with excellent results. They are a ball bearing producing company so their bb's seem to benefit from this as I have personally found them to be perfect once washed (Goldenballs come with LOTS of residue). Get a nice size posterboard, preferably white, and sight it in. There you go. I have not used any Bioshots that were above 0.30g so I cannot comment on those, but I am much to broke to waste money on them when I have brands that I know work well for me at least. Choose your poison well my friend :)
  19. In my experience, the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber has provided me with the best results; however, I am not sure how much it matters if you compensate for sealing with the appropriate modifications and other mods. The hop up does hold its setting very nicely which may not really matter a whole lot if you are using the R-hop as compared to the Flat Hop or conventional hop up. I have not heard of the m-nub either. Though I have been out of the loop for quite some time. I will have to look some stuff up on it, but between my Flat Hops/R-Hop/ER-Hop I don't see any point in going for more. To the OP: Its very true, the Flat Hop is insanely easier to install comparatively than the R-hop and especially the ER-hop. Performance wise, I imagine they are about the same out to a certain distance but we will see soon enough if this ER-Hop is any good compared to the Flat Hop. So my suggestion: try to find a FireFly Flat Nub. Thankfully I bought 4 from Airsoft Atlanta when Star told me he was going to post the data. Good luck! [if you don't want to use/spend the money on the Neo Strike, the G&P is a good bang for your buck and just use some mods to increase its air seal as well as help it maintain its setting]
  20. Well I am finally free, for now, of my burden of being an Engineering Student. My good friend is finishing up the SR25 for me, as I mentioned early, because I have no time and they banned Airsoft Replicas in my living establishment. But as soon as I get it back I can finally tune her up myself :) a bit, not sure how much I will miss between Major and myself though knowing him he will leave me with nothing to do :( I will have to break something... Anyways. As far as I know the gun is going through its final stages of work: SHS 19-tooth metal Piston (only one I could find having a full metal rack). I will have my Neo Strike/Prommy barrel/Flat Hop as one setup and a G&P Hop up/Madbull barrel/ER-Hop to swap in and out until I find one that I prefer more. I plan to use Bioval 0.40g but will probably switch to BB Bastrd since they are more readily available and their quality is close to if not on par with Bioval's 0.40g. Though the cold weather isn't my friend I will sight it in and my new projects as well hopefully in a few weeks. Though the DMR is capable of 350 feet + shots they aren't needed in this sport so I never use the Range Finder to tune that far I simply just compensate for the distance vertically like one would IRL ( sorry to bring up the comparison) I haven't played an airsoft game since September nor posted so I felt like I should treat the sport a bit :) I hope everyone is doing well this holiday season and all your airsoft Christmas lists get filled. End up of gun project update. Possible Future Goals: Find a better quality heavy weight BB, get compression lower than +/- 0.3 fps deviation.
  21. I am back :) its been 4-5 months time to post. On topic: New G&P Sr25? So it doesn't have the V2.5 Gearbox but I am assuming you will be dropping in the CA set you have. Sounds good to me :) I am a fan of the original version but the new one is nothing to scoff at! Keep me posted. You know how I am about Sr25's
  22. You make it sound so simple :) Depending on the level of DMR you want it could take a TON of work.
  23. I can't hardly fine the time to get on any more with all the homework I have and exams... I do appreciate the generous reference to my DMR though. To the OP: I think you should grab an SPR class rifle, so you have fairly good effective range and still keep the option of full auto. NEVER underestimate an Auto's ability to saturate an area which more than makes up for their lack of effective range on Semi-Auto AEG's unless you go all out and have a HIGH performing DMR or as others would call it, a true DMR. For SPR externals you can choose what you want but google it and see what you like.
  24. I have not posted in awhile so, the time has come! On topic: You can't really just slap specs on this motor.... The Gear Ratio...the Spring....Modifications (Short Stroking)....the Battery.... ALL play a part in determining the information you wish to know. There really isn't a generic standard. When you start adding in the missing blanks we can help you. As it stands this is what you are asking: SHS HS Motor + X Gears + X Wiring + X Modifications + X Spring + X Battery.....= This is what I want to know. Well fill in the X's and we will do just that...OR give us "The what you want to know part" and we can fill in the X's. Make sense friend? Otherwise it will result in pure speculation which is not very efficient at all.
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