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Everything posted by azulueta

  1. Nothing direct at this point but it can take a battery in the stock..."5-Position Multi Purpose Stock can store up to fit 11.1v 1200mAh Li-Poly battery (Mini T-Shape Plug) at your choice" is quoted on the gun from a Dealer. Just measure your dimensions and compare them to batteries. Researching helps.
  2. I have read it in multiple tests on how 6.01mm barrels shoot more accurate at a closer distance but as you get farther out 6.03mm barrels reign supreme. I do agree at what you are saying though about consistency and maintaining spin and trajectory. It was just something I ran into awhile back when I had such a question that there were numerous results of a 6.01mm performing better at a closer distance but not not as well as a 6.03mm. My mind is wrapped up in my Engineering Tests I have going on this week and next week but on an off cuff statement, we know that a tighterbore leaves less clearance for the bb to move around and thus a tighterbore would allow the BB to, in theory, be more centered as it exits....HOWEVER... We also know that each time it bumps the wall of the barrel, it may impart an off axis spin/mess up the supposedly good backspin that was just applied to the BB. So I am assuming that the "centered" BB in a 6.01mm performs well for a short distance before its off axis spin really does some damage to it. Where with a 6.03mm while it may not be really centered in the barrel, it leaves just the perfect amount of room for air flow as well as minimal bumping against the walls of the barrel so that while the BB may not be centered in the barrel it is much more consistent on how it exits the barrel than a BB that has bounced around a lot in the barrel. Hence why 6.03-6.05mm is generally considered a good bore size. The reverse is also true if you go too large such as 6.08mm. Just my thoughts on it; I know there are hundreds of theories and such but this is just what I believe. Even on ASM you have people saying "we still don't truly know what goes on inside the barrel" vs the "There is a video of proof of what does but we cannot release it". I had my opinion before ever hearing about ASM so after heading there, even then it wasn't cleared up for me. Though with the R-Hop/Flat Hop types we probably see much less "bumping" into the walls of the barrel as they provide a consistent and even hop along the axis of the BB. TBH I really don't like bringing theories like this into ASF as it harms the thousands of new users we have as its over-complicating things when they read them. But I thought I would throw in my opinion on it I know everyone has their own. EDIT: Spelling
  3. My bad, I assumed it was an AEG as it wasn't in the Sniper Rifle section.. =/ As most people post there with their Bolt Action Questions. If that's the case, then stick to EdGI or grab a PDI barrel.
  4. airborne101 covered about everything I would add. I would like to point out to the OP: 6.01mm barrels tend to give tighter groupings in short distances but 6.03mm barrels exceed it beyond that. EdGI barrels are great and I believe they are handmade. The ones I had I loved though they were 6.03mm. Now I usually recommend Madbull 6.03mm barrels as they are 35$. If you were going a DMR route I would advise a Prometheus barrel.
  5. Maybe I am reading this wrong, but you are saying if you put a piece of paper in the hop up chamber area, it stays inside the hop up chamber, yet you can still shoot bb's to 50 feet? Unless this is some new testing method for compression that I have not heard of. Regardless.... Since you have switched barrels and hop up mechanisms...and you are getting such fps (so I assume your cylinder head and piston head are fine). It leads be to believe it has something to do with: a. The position of the barrel in the upper receiver (though depending on how it fits this may not be possible). b. Is it hitting a part of the external gun (flash hider or something) before it exits? I have a few more ideas but its late and I will hit them up later possibly. It just doesn't seem to me like there should be something wrong internally besides what I mentioned. If you are indeed getting that fps, so your gearbox internals are all good, and you have tried multiple buckings/nubs/hop up chambers/barrels. It has to be something external IMHO. Because this isn't happening magically. There is something seriously wrong with your airsoft replica. Make sure your barrels are straight and check if any externals are not meshing with the barrel well like maybe the bb coming out of the barrel and hitting part of the externals of the gun.
  6. My my, nice results! Shame 99% of fields have DMR's set at 550 fps with 0.20g or even lower at 450 fps with 0.20g... :( I can only get 350 feet with 0.40g effective range, slightly farther with the Flat hop. Though I have never had a chance to even take such a shot. If I was only allowed to use a high fps this would be easier :(
  7. Not to be mean...but what does that have to do with the thread topic? Unless you only bring 16 BB's with you to a game....let alone the kind that requires something of an insane hop up unit (ER-Hop) and may even be deemed to dangerous to play with.
  8. If I am playing with my DMR Class SR25, I usually use Bioval 0.40g which are around 12$ for 500rds. But during a 2 day event, I only used 150rds; then again, its DMR class and 70ish% of the bb's ended up being kills at the LEAST [people didn't call hits. etc..]. ____________ For my past Auto's, I usually used around 700rds for a Milsim event but I was usually moving with my team and we were constantly being engaged for most of the game and a lot of moments called for suppressive fire. For it I used AirsoftGI bb's that cost 11$ for 4000rds. And their quality was very good. _____ With my new Auto that has the potential for high rof on full auto, I haven't played with it really so I couldn't tell you how much I would use, but I would stick to semi-auto most of the time.
  9. Some people provided enough information that makes it null for me to voice my personal opinion due to how on track theirs is with mine. I do suggest one thing...If you are going with an M14, go G&G. As a tech...I despise V7 Gearbox jobs for our team. I almost advise people against buying them because I know who gets to do the upgrading..... The TM V7 is the biggest pain... Just my thoughts on it...as far as future upgrading goes, you won't have fun with the V7. Any tech will agree on this.
  10. Yea...my G&P M180 did a good job of shredding 3 pinion gears in situations that wouldn't have bothered any other pinion gear.... So I can attest to this.
  11. I am not going to lie.... I don't say this often..... I will try my best to restrain myself.... For the LOVE of all that's HOLY......that tank is legit!! You need to get licence plates for it that say: BAMF. Just sayin.....
  12. What he meant was, most players use the R-Hop like a fixed hop. Pick a BB weight to go with and tune the R-Hop to it. No need to mess with the adjustments like you do in standard designs. This yields the best result for that particular bb weight.
  13. No on the gun oil. Grab some silicon oil: I use the spray stuff you can get from a local hardware store. Use wal-mart cotton gun swabs and cut them for .22 . Run a strip covered in it through your barrel a few times then take a bunch of dry ones through it to get rid of the excess oil. When you are running it through your barrel...twist it in a screw driver fashion. After that, just use water on your swabs until the next major overhaul. ____________________ Nah, I consider jobs like the ones mentioned to be airsoft related in a sense and we haven't gone too long on it (talking about it) so its fine. Very interesting and I agree...trades are much more needed now than ever and pay very well...my other engineering friends and I agree.. Hence why I am also grabbing my MBA, going to aim for the Business Technical side which is getting VERY needed like Engineering Administration/Sales/Advertising etc...I want the Administration side.
  14. I pray to the gods of airsoft that you were just shooting a bit close to them and that it really does not shoot that hot =/ 400 fps with 0.20g is the standard for AEG's firing full-auto. Bomino pretty much covered most of the things I would have to say. Though I would like to add real quick, for future reference, the length of the barrel isn't necessarily = range as with real fire arms. Its a highly debated subject but MOST people tend to agree that you gain no performance past 509mm (lets leave it at that and leave airsoft theory out of this). But you are new to airsoft, as you pointed out, so most of what I said and Bomino mentioned are just trying to help you =/ Since you are new, may I suggest that you start looking at all the threads that have been posted about upgrading? If you think its too much readings you can read the link in my Signature concerning my personal DMR as it has a lot of mods done to it and may have enhance some knowledge of what to do. I think its pretty cool that you are a design Engineer, is that an actual ABET acredited degree? Because that would be something I would love to do, though I am already a EE a UIUC... If you can figure out how to make Gears, it would make your life so much easier. RiotSC currently makes some of the strongest gears known in the airsoft world :) they are also known as Siegetek Gears. You should look them up, or talk to him about it if you are interested in drafting a set for personal use or something, I am sure he wouldn't mind giving some tips on airsoft items like that.
  15. I have looked into it, but it has fitment issues in some brands unlike the "standard" M4/M16 Hop up chamber we are all used to seeing. If it worked in most I would be all for it, but when I was looking into it (its been quite some time) it didn't fit for some of the brands I wanted. However, if it does fit, I always thought it would be a great setup. But I already have the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber and I more biased towards it than the Madbull Ultimate (I worked on a gun on our team that has one) whether this has any tech backing it or not is probably not the case as I just like the Neo Strike xD and the Madbull Ultimate wouldn't fit in some of my setups at that time. I did like the fact that it was similar to the G36 hop up adjustment, which I REALLY loved as one of my very first airsoft guns was a G36 type.
  16. Ironically, I think some of my older ones did have black gears now that I think of it =/ My ER-Hop is in the newer Blue-Geared one. So far it seems to perform well. As far as construction, its built very nice, I would wager less flaws than most brands. For the main part, their gears, in my experience in DMR setups the Hop Up Chamber needs to perform perfectly or you may as well quit being a DM. Continuing the point, I HAVE had issues with hop up creep to where after X amount of shots, the gear starts disengaging the hop up arm...its quite annoying. While there are numerous manners in which people believe to fix this: O-Ring, shimming, etc... Or buying a good chamber like the Modify Hop up chamber (which it does have a flaw because if you read over how it works, I won't go into it here, it doesn't allow for fine tune adjusting due to the way the gears are toothed: you can adjust it, just not to a fine point, kind of like walking up the stairs, it takes 2 Steps for every adjustment where as most hop ups take 1 step for every adjustment--putting it simply). http://www.airsoftoutletnw.com/index.php?o...&Itemid=218 Though it is a VERY nice hop up chamber, just look at that thing :) Anyways...I decided to use Loctite on my main adjustment gear, I put some on the metal spoke and placed the gear on it (after installing the nub and barrel/bucking). You would think it would not allow adjustment to the hop up chamber right? Well I just grabbed a pair of pliers and broke the glue, but it barely moved if I try to adjust it with my fingers now, BUT I can adjust it using pliers, no more annoying hop up creep :) I just need pliers to adjust it. The only flaw with this is...if you need to fully disassemble the hop up chamber, things get...messy...but if you don't :) its awesome. Whether or not people agree with how I do that, its ok, it just works for me. Side Note: Its not listed in my Modification list for the SR25 because the NEO Strike Chamber is very resistant to hop up creep due to the O ring they included and how it all meshes together.
  17. OFF TOPIC: Sometimes people just don't have enough time :(. If you read my DMR thread recently you will have seen I am sending my SR25 in to someone else to work on...the campus issued a search and seizure of all weapons in the building and randam safety inspections are done a lot. I talked to the people in charge and they said as much as they are not against Airsoft/Paintball items in general they seem too much like real fire arms. Coupled with the fact that the only other tech for the team is getting out of airsoft with my heavy Engineering Load this semester...it just adds up to me not being able to do anything... Though there is a Once a month tech night that I go to help at, I was paid to help other not my own gun and our club and team have quite a few guns to work on :(.. My DMR has only seen my own hands and everything that has been done to it is by me and now I have to send it away, it really doesn't feel good. Main point, I am not sure why you jumped so hard on him? If he boasting about how awesome he was and how awesome is guns were and all were built by Major9 and he didn't do any work, I may see your point. I have no idea who this guy his, I have never heard of him on here nor on any of the forums I am on; but he does seem to have a decent tech background, that's all I can say because I truly don't know anything more about him than what has been stated here. If you would be so kind as to state what your post as to do with the OP's Post it would be appreciated :) _____________________________________ Compression: Inner-barrel - Bravo/Lonex 6.03-------------------I would have personally gone with the 35$ Madbull or for a Stainless Steel Barrel Prometheus but if this works for you... Hop-up chamber - SHS----------------------------I prefer G&P Hop up chambers, they have always performed best for me in setups, unless I am using a DMR I tend to like to use the Neo Strike Chamber Nub set-up - R-hop----------------------------This works :) Air nozzle - SHS----------------------------Should provide a good seal since you are using all SHS parts in this area Cylinder head - SHS----------------------------See above (double O-ring nice choice) Cylinder - ??----------------------------I am not sure what kind of setup you are going for specifically, Systema/Deep Fire make some nice cylinders Piston head - Bravo/Lonex----------------------------Star/Major love their Modify PH's. I personally love the Prometheus one :) it goes into all my setups Piston - SHS 15 tooth----------------------------SHS, good choice Spring - Guarder M120----------------------------Very good choice, provide the best consistency IMHO. I am guessing a short stroke? Btw its SP for guarder. Guarder SP120= Systema M130 Mechanical: Gearbox - Bravo/Lonex 8mm----------------------------No experience here, enjoy :) Gearset - RiotSC 10:1----------------------------I read about these, let me know how they work. Dang Riot for making more V2 stuff :( where is my Sr25 gearset.... Bushings - Modify 8mm Ceramic Bearings---------------------------- I do love me some Modify and King Arms bushings Anti-reversal latch - SHS----------------------------Why not.. Cut-off lever - SHS ---------------------------- Alright Electrical: Switch assembly - SHS----------------------------I see... Wiring - 16 awg Teflon Wire----------------------------Sexy, good choice Connectors - Deans----------------------------but of course, what else would you use :) Mosfet - HS5 or AWS----------------------------I personally prefer Extreme Fire > AWS but I don't know how Extreme Fire fairs with HS5. I like EF due to how durable their circuitry is Battery - 8.4 V NiMh----------------------------that's cute...it really is <3 __________________ But of course the DIY Compression modifications but I suppose since Major9 is doing it he "should" get them right :P Looks good to me. Grab some Hailstorm/Bioval/Bioshot/Goldenball 0.30g and enjoy! BB Quality > Weight
  18. I was going to make some nice big ol' post until Star came along...always stealing things from me :( But seriously, You don't need a Double O-ring cylinder head if you do the proper DIY Compression Modifications that can be found in this forum. I used a Single O ring Cylinder head and used Caulk to help seal it up, some people use teflon tape. BUT, a double O-ring Cylinder certainly won't hurt you :) Its just, if you want to save money you can do a "better" job yourself :P I agree on all the above posts =/ I wanted to put some input but they beat me here... In any case, grab some Bioval 0.30g (White) and you won't go wrong. If the Bioshot 0.32g (White) feed, I suggest grabbing them. Quality > Weight when it comes to BB's.
  19. Dear friend, a 7.4v 20C Lipo will not hurt you..not in one day of play and I bet you would be fine running it for awhile TBH. If you grabbed something like a 45C 7.4v with 5000mah that's when I would be concerned. You should be fine for a year if not more in my opinion.
  20. I would choose the first option: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=5897 VFC MK17-H SSR (Black) Airsoft Gun Mainly because its basically built externally to be of a DMR type class that and VFC have some of the best externals :) This is fun because our team just got a new member and he just bought that gun, except Tan. He wants to turn it into a DMR, but I am having him go into a SPR so he can keep full auto. Alright, it keep it simple, there are lot of things I want to do to this gun internally but to save money for him and you, just grab a Madbull 6.03mm 509mm barrel for 35$ and the PDI W Hold Bucking, its almost sold out everywhere but I suggest you try to find it as I believe I found one site that had it at a time. Use 0.28g Airsoft Elite/Goldenball/AirsoftGI/G&G And there you go. Its a cheap start and those two things I mentioned will drastically improve your game and they are VERY easy to install and use. Even if you don't know how, you don't even have to open the gearbox :)
  21. azulueta

    new bioshot bb's!

    I gave up on tracking shots ever since I started using 0.40g Tan. I may see the BB occasionaly, I used to shoot once and watch the bb then compensate because my compression consistency allowed me to have very consistent shots. Now I just maticulously sight my scope AND hop up for hours, so when I get to the field, I take 3-4 shots per person at long range. I have the ability to use Semi-Auto more so I am going to use it :) its part of my new strategy, results: everyone calls their hits even at extreme range. Oh yeah, I swear on Bioval especially over Bioshot because Bioval has been around much longer and their bb's quality/consistency up to 0.30g has not wavered. Whereas Bioshot was awesome then all of a sudden feeding issues =/. I compared the Bioshot 0.30g and Bioval 0.30g I could hardly tell the difference in groupings at 200 feet. On my M16 DMR using the Systema bucking and SCS, I was able to obtain 270 feet of effective range using the 0.30g at 450 fps with 0.20g. So with the R-Hop you definitely should. ____ As far as non-white bb's go. I have preached how I sight in my black bb's. White Board, aim at it, sight it in :) If I was looking for heavy weights to use in a DMR I would hit up Hailstorm 0.38g (black) though I have not tested their quality. The only time its really needed to shoot really far, IMHO, is if you are trying to counter snipe someone. Other than that, I would still spam semi-auto for 3-4 shots. As I said, I used to shoot once, then compensate but now that my hop ups are set for very heavy ammo which is usually non-white, I always use 0.40g in most cases. Bioval 0.40g are great, they perform better than the OEM brands, but I am running out, if/when I do run out, I will probably switch to King Arms/Guarder/Madbull 0.40g seeing as I don't just take one shot and the Bioval 0.40g's air pockets come into play in my 300+ foot shots... As in my 350 foot shot, I had to do the test over and over, and my best 2 sets were 7/10 and 6/10 on a man sized target. My tech is perfect, my Compression-heavenly, and I am used to shooting the gun. What I am trying to say is the lack of accuracy at such ranges is due to BB quality.... =( So I need to buy some Hailstorm's cut them open and post some pictures soon.
  22. Just Updating: I used the SR25 at a big 2-day event and on the second day half way through it stopped firing. Took it apart and that 45$ Systema Aluminim Piston blew up on its last tooth.....AOE was great too =/ In any case, I am not going to spend 45$ for a new one, ironically the only "strong" 19 tooth piston is the SHS one for L85/SR25 V2.5GB and I got it for 12$ all metal teeth. So while that is underway I went about working on radiusing the gearbox then college hit...with a new policy: Inspections that will occur randomly for weapons and animals =/ wtf..I talked to the Manager and head manager they didn't have a problem with my Airsoft Guns but it seemed they were too close to "real fire arms" they said so they couldn't allow them. So now I can't even work on my own airsoft guns as I almost never go home and the other tech for our team is wanting to leave airsoft to an extent so I can't use his place. Sadly, I am forced to send my gun away to another tech =(. I trust him its just, this is my baby and I have done all the work to her so far as you have seen above. In any case, it will have the completed ER-Hop when its done and we'll see how that fairs especially in my test of Flat vs ENP vs ER-Hop. Sorry guys...guess the only work I will be doing in my room is my Engineering Homework.. _____ EDIT: On the note of the piston blowing up, it was aluminum and I had checked AOE. I want to say that it may have been the force from the spring but I can't be sure. It has a Guarder PSG-1 SP150, so in terms of regular AEG length it would be around SP160-170 or M180 type spring. Maybe it just needed metal teeth =/ Or maybe I somehow suck at AOE correction :p...yeah...it was good. Thoughts?
  23. azulueta

    new bioshot bb's!

    Generally they give you a new bag of BB's that are "good", so the more crap you get the more crap you get unless its fixed? Well if that's the case... :( back to Goldenball 0.36g/0.40g and Hailstorm 0.36g, 0.38g. Though Star says GB has air pockets I have found none in my 0.36g and 0.40g, Major9 knows about Hailstorm, I still need to buy some. Well Bioshot 0.32g should be good at least. Hopefully?
  24. My my....welcome to airsoftforum friend :) We are here to assist you in manners and with questions google fails you on or has not been mentioned before in this forum....this...is NOT one of those occasions =) Be mindful of this next time you post. First off what brand is this SCAR? I believe their inner barrels are 384mm long. slightly longer than the M4 length of 363mm. All you need to do, is buy say a 509mm barrel and put a Mock Suppressor on there.
  25. Yeah you pretty much got them all. I think A&K ones are discontinued now as well. So is the Ares SR25. The original G&P one is, you can occasionally find the new G&P SR25 for sale on certain websites, its basically a V2 using a spacer and not the V2.5. Though this forum is from my state, and I am not promoting it in any manner, I do know this is still sitting in the marketplace: http://www.illinoisairsoft.com/index.php?topic=13163.0 A Classic Army SR25, it does have the V2.5GB. Still my personal favorite SR25 is the G&P :P I believe the unofficial ranking for externals in the airsoft world for SR25's was: G&P, CA, A&K [if you only count the V2.5GB] I make such a note of this as most guns are moving away from extended cylinders, as only those three brands had it and older brand L85s had it but I believe the new ones don't. So besides those 2 and the obvious PSG-1, extended items are almost gone :p so grab them if you want them. Whether or not the extra air volume really helps or not is debatable with many but I believe it does help and I am not going to start spewing theory nonsense here :) I suggest grabbing one before they disappear. Classic Army is your best bet. G&P you might as well play the lottery if you want their old ones. THOUGH...you could grab the URX versions :) http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index....roducts_id=3124 It does not use a V2.5 Cylinder though, but if you wanting this for Automatic purposes its the way to go. If you WANT to turn it into a DMR class, then just cut the selector plate and you can even by a Classic Army SR25 V2.5GB and put it in and it should fit in theory. But just ask Star, using full auto with a V2.5 [extended cylinder] is a bad idea. EDIT: I mentioned the URX because it has my favorite trades: KAC and the Stoner Rifle :) and it has the SR25 magazine well [sr25 magazines are expensive you will come to find]. I was going to buy this but I switched to the G&P SR16 URX due to it being cheaper and I could use M4 Magazines. But I still got the KAC trades. [I am a KAC fanboy]
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