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Everything posted by azulueta

  1. Up to you, for Bio bb's I still wash mine as they have lots of residue. You can leave them be though =/ they perform well either way. In my test of Bioval Washed vs Bioshot Unwashed, they were almost identical groupings at 200 feet which happened to be on an oreo sized container. :) Those 2 brands have impeccable quality, I think washing will only save you less cleaning later when it comes to them. Though being that I love owning every heavy weight bb that I can, the new Bioshot weights I need to order soon when I get more funding as well as the Hailstorm bb's that go up to 0.38g and are also made in America and Major9 swears to them so I really want to see if they are great. All I want is a heavy weight with no air pockets. BB Bastrd had them, Bioval had them, obviously the OEM brands have them.---[have air pockets] I cut open some Goldenballs and they didn't have them but then Star cut some open and found them. I never knew them to have air pockets so I am not sure if this is something new or Star got a bad batch. So the choices now reside between Goldenball: 0.36g, 0.40g [I have] VS Bioshot 0.36g [Don't have] VS Hailstorm 0.36g, 0.38g [Don't have]. We have come so far with our hop up this year and other various modifications. The one thing we ARE lacking is good quality heavy weight ammo. Despite having air pockets I found Bioval 0.40g to be more consistent than the OEM brands but once I got into 300+feet it started getting more random and it obviously wasn't my hop up system. So if anyone grabs those bb's before me, please cut 3 open and take a picture, I really want to see air pockets or not. Its for the good of airsoft!
  2. I am an avid DMR specialist :) as you may see my DMR-fanboyisms and SR25-fanboyisms around. So I decided to come to this thread. First let me warn you, I am not entirely sure how much tech experience you have in a broad spectrum but from one tech to you...I hate the V7 gearbox above all others...its the biggest pain to upgrade and work on out of all the gearboxes IMHO. So just please take that into consideration. For a DMR-Class, I still advice grabbing an M16 length SPR looking airsoft gun as V2 parts are in the throngs :) This is totally my opinion though. If you find other "DMR Build" threads you will see how I have..."spoon fed" answers to a lot of users so you can use that information to your advantage as well as what other techs have suggest. Star is an awesome choice for advice and PMing him is a good way for information as he is always willing to help, or Major9. I would suggest myself but sometimes I can get moody :P there are plenty of other techs I am just suggesting the ones I prefer to talk to most from one tech to another. EDIT: Side note, I have seen many users take offense to advice now a days so as a disclaimer, I am not knocking on your skills as a tech and suggesting you have no idea what you are doing. I am just trying to point you in a good direction to go for a DMR class type AEG.
  3. azulueta

    new bioshot bb's!

    That's no good. I was told their 0.28g and 0.30g had always fed fine it was the lower weights that had issues. So this is news to me. Try washing them and then shooting them? I want to see if it makes a difference :)
  4. Now that I have your nubs.....the Flat Hop....AND the ER-Hop ;p I should do a vs test sometime. Though I only have 2 different hop up chambers..... EDIT: When I get some cash I will buy 2 more hop up Chambers and Barrels and some BB's and do a VS test whenever I go home or something.
  5. I appreciate the PM Bulletbling and I was going to reply but thought it might be more beneficial to post it here so more users can read it and hopefully get more of their questions answered. First off, FPS does NOT equal Range alone. FPS with a combination of excellent compression/high quality bbs/ the appropriate hop up/nub/bucking do. In short, the FPS only helps if you have the correct assets to use it appropriately. For 450 fps with 0.20g, use a Guarder SP120. You see, given some research, its well known that Guarder Springs shoot a bit hot. So with good compression that will easily put you at 440-450 fps. Knowing that, you will be fine with a standard 18:1 Ratio gearset, couple that with the stock motor and a Lipo and you should be fairly pleased with your trigger response and ROF. Since you do seem to be new, the best bucking choice for you is the PDI W Hold, which my good friend Star has pointed out. Its almost a "plug and chug" upgrade. Start out with that and at least use 0.28g-0.30g bb's. Bioshot is what you should aim for for awesome quality at a awesome price. Grab a 35$ Madbull barrel 6.03mm 363mm. Hop Up chamber? You don't really need to upgrade it but if you want to, G&P Hop up chambers are a great buy. Ehobbyasia has some since I believe you are ordering from there. You don't necessarily need to upgrade every part, just the ones mentioned will give you a significant increase in your specs. Remember your DIY Compression mods as well.
  6. Thank you very much for not asking " what should I do to upgrade this?" Spoon feeding so many users makes me very tired.... So +1 Man Point for you! On topic: What is the goal of this Airsoft Replica anyways? SPRING: I ask this because while Guarder is the Spring I ALWAYS recommend as I find them to be the most consistent, the Guarder SP140 with good compression will put you 530 fps with 0.20g. If its a DMR, ok that's fine, but even then most fields allow 450 fps with 0.20g for DMR-Semi-Auto only. Regardless, its your money and your choice, but the sooner I know what purpose you have entailed for it I can critque the Spring Rating you have chosen. For 400fps you want the SP110, for 450 fps I recommend the SP120. GEAR SET: Alright this is starting to look more like a DMR class as you are grabbing Torque gears. I don't have any experience with the Guarder GS's. But I have had experience with their pinion gear and its horribly screetchy and is not even cut correctly to mesh with most other gears. Since I am still not sure what spring rating you want...its hard to give an accurate Gear Ratio. If its 450 fps with 0.20g, go with an 18:1 Ratio (standard) I would then grab either JG 18:1 or SHS 18:1, they are low cost and high performance. AKA bang for your buck. You could just keep the ICS 18:1 gearset to save money. I have no experience with ICS gears. PISTON: My my, G&P is my favorite brand, but that's mostly for their state of the art realistic externals. Since this is a DMR I recommend going with an SHS Metal Teeth Piston, cheap and VERY strong. the 14 tooth one should do nicely. But, if you correct AOE perfectly, you could keep using the stock one. SPRING GUIDE: As long as it has a bearing on it, you are good to go in most cases. So this is one of them. PISTON HEAD: NOOOO! You were so close! Prometheus PH's are my favorite brand but more so the Polycarb versions which I recommend you switch to :) Airsoft Atlanta has some in stock and they ship USPS. Bring on the next set of questions!......but I should be doing my engineering homework... Good luck!
  7. Agreed with Star on the fact that you didn't list one. Choose a bucking that is relative to your needs: What airsoft role will you be-DM, Gunner, Auto that will then lead to the best hop up nub.bucking combo. Answers to these can be found everywhere on ASF as well as all over google. While I have never personally used Modify PH's, I trust Star has his reasons :) I prefer Prometheus Polycarb Piston heads myself. Though, Major9 has had awesome experience with the stock JG PH I believe so you could also look into that for a cheaper alternative.
  8. Refer to Post 6 :) I am glad you at least didn't make a separate thread about this as most users do but please read all the posts. But to answer some of your questions: Why on earth would it break your gun to shoot washed bb's? Its not like without the powder/residue they become sticky and will stick to your barrel =/ not trying to be mean but trying to help you think about this rather than posting up a bunch of questions that can be found via research or common sense. BB Residue/Powder-sometimes it helps for feeding and such...sometimes it doesn't. Washing them helps take off powder that would otherwise leave more residue on your bucking so you could go longer without cleaning it or your barrel [ though not advised]. Goldenballs are a prime example of this, in their unwashed state, they are "fairly good" IMHO, once washed, you could place them next to Bioval or Bioshot IMHO. About the washing part, see Post 6. For most of what you are asking, actually read the thread and do some more searching...all the information is here.... Again, I am not trying to be rude but you posted in the thread that has some of the information if not all of it already here, yet you re-posted a question that had an answer. Analogy: Student 1: "So what IS X + 2 = 4" Student 2 :" x = 2" Student 1: "Thanks" months later, Student 3 was able to get the lecture notes on the discussion and has "done his research". "So guys what is X +2 = 4" I am sure you get my point. ASF contains volumes of useful airsoft information and I am just trying to help new users understand not to clutter it up if at all possible. Good luck.
  9. Its looking good so far! All your work is paying off. Being the fan boy of SR25's that I am, I cannot fully appreciate what you are doing to it externally, but if you love it, go with it :) Since this is a V2.5GB if you need part suggestions, just check out my signature DMR.
  10. Well in that case here it is! AirsoftGI BB Review EDIT: Odd...it used to have a bb grouping set of pictures of the GI bb's vs Airsoft Elites, they added new stuff but took that down.
  11. There was a review of it somewhere of Airsoft Elites vs AirsoftGI bbs and they were on par with them. I would post it but its from another forum and I believe that is against the rules.
  12. Research :) its all in the research. You did give the brand and gun but I really fail to see how so many people ask the questions but it seems they never look anything up. I understand how its easy to just post a question, but its like asking the techs here at ASF "So...2 + 7 = 9 right?" Yes you are correct. 1 day later, next person "2 + 7 = 9 right?" Yes you are correct. 1 day later "2+ 8 = 10 right?" Yes. Oh and " 2 +2 = 4 right?" My point being some of us have the answers to these questions, and some of that are mostly correct but we post them all the time. Please do some research next time, :) it makes me feel good to see people try. This is NO offense to you. Though I will oblige you... Do you want the Suppressor for more of a "DMR" class look? If so, that's fine. You already listed a M16 length upper, fine again, which means a 509mm barrel would be where you want to go. You DON'T need to fill up the space in your suppressor. A Longer barrel does not necessarily mean increase in accuracy or range, there are lots of variables and exceptions, but in its bare raw form, it does not. So, for a high quality barrel go with EdGI, Prometheus or Madbull. For the price vs Quality, always go with the Madbull 6.03mm 509mm. Its 35$, If you want a Stainless Steel barrel, grab a Prometheus 6.03mm 509mm barrel, it will last longer than the Madbull one but if you ARE using your airsoft replica as a DMR, you probably won't run into the Madbull barrel "wearing out" as some users claim as DMR class is Semi-Auto Only. Now that I have touched that point, you need to cut your selector plate to disable your Full-Auto. DMR class Airsoft Replicas do NOT use Full-Auto and can NOT have the option of it. Alright, lets hit the next step. I believe VFC uses 7mm bearings, grab some Modify 7mm Bushings. You never mentioned what fps you wanted the DMR to have but almost every field uses 450 fps with 0.20g as their DMR limits. Knowing this go with a Guarder SP120, they give the best consistency IMHO. Piston Head-I am a prometheus Piston head fan boy, so I suggest that one. There are cheaper alternatives but I swear by that one. Cylinder-I am not sure if VFC comes with a Full (Type 0) cylinder, if it does not, grab X brand Cylinder. As long as the cylinder is smooth, your fine. I tend to use TN and Systema Cylinders. Deep Fire is awesome as well. Cylinder head: Guarder cylinders are the way to go for name brands as they also come with a double o-ring for sealing. You could also go the cheaper route of buying SHS (RED) cylinder head. Air nozzle-Meh if you want to replace it go ahead. SHS (red) or Deep Fire Air nozzle are my favorites. But you want to go with the air nozzle that best fits your cylinder head for sealing purposes and same brand just so happens to be a good start. Piston, you really don't need a metal teeth piston as at 450 fps, the stock one will suffice, but if you want a better guarantee, you want to grab an SHS 14 Metal Teeth Piston. Gears: Please get rid of the VFC Self-Shimming Gears. I really do not like them :) [Personal experiences on my team with them]. For budget gears of great quality, just grab SHS 18:1 or JG 18:1 (standard ratio gears). For a high end set of gears that will never break, grab the Siegetek Gearset but those will cost you around 110$ keep in mind. Motor: I suggest a G&P Torque Motor, the M160 or M170 are great buys. The M180 is overkill for you. Its hard to find G&P motors right now and clone torque motors are awesome in their quality as well. An SHS High Torque motor or Element HT Motor will suffice. MOSFET: Lets have you go with...the SW-Jaguar made by Extreme Fire. Don't forget the Panther Wire kit for the wiring you will need and it comes with a very fun Deans :) Batteries....Well I Believe you are using a crane stock? Anyways, with the setup I gave you an Elite 9.6v or 10.8v nunchuck would be awesome. If you want a Lipo though, Airsoft-Club as Firefox Lipos 11.1v 12C 1350mah that I know will fit the VFC crane stock. Hop up chamber: I don't like the VFC hop up chamber. Grab a G&P Hop up chamber. Bucking/Nub: The PDI W Hold bucking will not give you a headache, its a plug and chug item that will give you excellent performance at your fps along with using 0.30g. If you want a headache try the Flat Hop or R-hop. BB's: Bioshot 0.30g :) or you could be a daredevil and try out their new 0.32g. I prefer Bioval but with money being scarce as is, the BB per $ is best with Bioshot. I consider Bioval and Bioshot very very very similar in quality. Bioval is the only brand I use for DMR ammo. Shims: I usually use Systema Shims. Above all, do NOT forget about your DIY Compression Modifications! :)
  13. Its time for you to do your research :) There are many answers to your questions out there as the "barrel" and "hop up" ones have been hit at least 5 times for every thread you see. Hop ups you could go with depending on what fps you want, is it semi-auto only, what bb weight, lots of variables.... For a Budget: G&P M4/M16 hop up Chamber Combos: R-Hop ER-Hop KWA 2gx PDI W Hold Flat Hop SCS Nub with Bucking Well there really isn't much point in going past 509mm for barrel length. For my SR25, I managed to get a Prometheus 6.03mm 590mm barrel for very cheap so that is why I have it. It doesn't hurt me to use it though. For a budget build grab a Madbull 6.03mm barrel xxxmm Length for what you want. I suggest 509mm but that is my personal opinion. If you want to use the gun right away and have fun with it after all the work you have done, I recommend grabbing the PDI-hold and around 450ish fps with 0.20g. It should use 0.28-0.30g quite well. On the other hand, if you want to spend more time tweaking, you can grab the R-Hop or Flat hop and play with it until your hearts content but you will gain a greater effective range than before depending on: BB Brand, DIY Compression Mods, and how well your tech is as well as personal skill.
  14. They used to be in orange and blue bags with heavier weights being in Clear bags. I have no doubt these are the Goldenballs. Goldenball brand bbs are some of the best bb's one can buy once washed. [They come heavily powdered] The company is actually a Bearing making company so its no wonder their products are produced with such quality. However, this is the first time I heard of them having Seams on multiple ones. As long as you cannot physically feel them with your finger, it should be perfectly fine.
  15. Dear Friend, Have you not looked around at all? I believe the answer to your question has been covered over and over and over and over and over again :) But, I shall help you... For Bore size, you want 6.03-6.05mm. As far as barrel length goes, stick with 509mm. For Expensive barrels go with EdGI and Prometheus 70-70++$ For a budget barrel that has performance very similar to those I listed above, grab the Madbull barrel, its only 35$ :) you won't regret buying it. A barrel's bore quality matters the most and those barrel companies that I mentioned have reached a point where their quality is very similar so performance differences you would gain between them would hardly be noticeable. If it were me, I know how much airsoft saps your money....grab the Madbull Barrel its only 35$. Though in my KWA guns I did use EdGI I found them to fit with the hop up chamber the best.
  16. EDI you failed me friend! I use a V4 Air Nozzle in the G&P SR25. The V2.5 Gearbox uses V2 and V4 parts :) silly. I think the V2.5 Cylinders (PSG-1 Length/L85) are getting big due to My SR25 which actually uses the V2.5 GB, Age's SR25 which uses the V2.5 GB, Star's L85 which uses a PSG-1 Length Cylinder etc... It just so happens those are very high performing DMRs and people may attribute, oh its what works I will buy that. Though I had one of my M16 'DMRs' hitting almost the same feet as well on Semi-Auto as my SR25. The SR25 was much more consistent though as I put more into it. ___________________________ To the OP: Good luck with your build, if you need any help let us know. I would have posted sooner but you are in...the sniper section?
  17. Oh my why are there so many "Best" questions out there without research. If you want a bare bone answer taking NOTHING else of your internals into account I go by this for AEGs 1. EdGI 75$+ 2. Prometheus 70$ or less 3. Madbull- 35$ However, the barrels I mentioned have all managed to achieve incredible design to the point that differences in using any of the three are often negligible. Therefore, for some people Prometheus is the best, for others Madbull. For me it was EdGI. TBH, after being in airsoft so long, don't waste your money on a very expensive barrel. Grab a Madbull 6.03mm 363mm (M4 Length) barrel and enjoy, its only 35$. Now lets touch on that "range" topic you mentioned. A 6.03mm Barrel is the way to go for range and its the way to go for Autos, usually 6.03-6.05mm are good barrel bore sizes. For autos the accpeted "sweet" spot for barrel length is 455mm or you could match your cylinder to barrel volume if you REALLY wanted to get anal about it. The main point being, a barrel will help increase your shot to shot consistency and sometimes help slightly with effective range but your real help is your hop up chamber/bucking/compression and other DIY mods. I recommend just grabbing the Madbull barrel I mentioned and installing it and grabbing decent bb's and you will be pleased with the results :) Good luck
  18. My Dear friend, Please read over some threads first before asking as a lot of the issues you bring up have great answers. I will help though :) To perform great in both the DMR type role and Assault Type, remember you may still lose to a replica specializing in just one, but that is my opinion out of the experience I have played with. The Class you are looking for is more of a SPR [special Purpose Rifle] as it can still use automatic but it has "above average" effective range than most autos. KWA is a great brand if you do not want to do a lot of upgrades in the future or now as their parts are not to TM Spec. In other words you will not be able to use most aftermarket parts without severe modification. Nonetheless, if you want an out of the box gun that performs great you can click "Purchase" and have it perform great, the SR10 is a great Airsoft Replica for the SPR role. For out of the box performance, with KWA, its in my opinion you won't have much competition, those who take the time to upgrade their replicas will eventually surpass you though in various categories. But with KWA, if you are new to the airsoft world as well, they will take care of your gun as long as you leave it stock with their helpful customer support and dedicated forums. Now lets touch on the barrel you mentioned, getting a longer barrel does NOT equal more range. In assault type weapons, 455mm is the sweet spot I believe, the KWA stock barrel length is perfect. I actaully measured its cylinder volume to barrel volume using the "Accepted Standard" of 1.7 times, and its almost the exact match to each other. What do I mean by this? The stock length of the KWA barrel vs the stock cylinder and piston setup are almost perfected matched volume wise. I suggest buying a custom EdGI 6.03mm barrel for that gun as they do make a length to match the SR10 as it should be listed on the KWA website. I will not get into barrel length and bore size here but 6.03mm is the way you want to go, and you can always buy like a Madbull 509mm and put a Mock Suppressor on the end of it. "Fps is high enough that I wouldn't need to touch it" Well since you want an Assault type AND DMR type = SPR, almost all the major fields that I know of and have heard of are 400 fps with 0.20g or lower for fully automatic Airsoft replocas meaning you fps cannot exceed that so I am not exactly sure what fps you were wanting but the KWA will put you slightly above 400 fps until you have used it for a bit. If you are an external guy, grab the Masada. If you want performance out of the box grab KWA. If you want to buy a gun that looks like an SPR and get it upgraded, read the various forums out here or talk to an experienced Tech about helping you with a build. Also, just remember DMR- Semi-Auto only, SPR-Can use full auto less fps than a DMR and in theory more range than an Auto, Auto-Same FPS as an SPR, and in theory less effective range. I am a DMR enthusiast so I will always have my opinion set on the DMR having the longest effective range much greater than an SPR so don't expect to outrange decent DMRs on your field. However, NEVER forget...an Autos ability to saturate an area makes up for a A LOT of range. There are numerous new players who assume if their gun can hit far ranges no one can touch them. My DMR has a Semi-Auto effective range of at LEAST 350 feet. It took months to tune and perfect and get used to and I have built and used many DMRs but the one thing I know is, Autos are always a threat especially seeing that in Woodland combat your engagements will take place in 150 feet or less. A DMR and SPR do not sit back and pick people off, they run with the Squad and complete missions. If you would like to sit back and do so, grab a boltaction and head to that section of the forums for upgrade information. :) Sorry for the long list but I just would like to inform you duly. I have my own personal pet peeves on positions and what airsoft-replicas belong where as I really like MilSim. Good luck. EDIT: Spelling
  19. I have washed Bioval 0.30g and 0.40g and allowed them to air dry then placed them back in their bag and back into storage. They have not degraded on me at all.
  20. G&P is usually the one to have that "stoner rifle trades" you are looking for. Its KAC [Knights Armament Company] which has the Stoner Rifle name My favorite real steel gun manufacturer.
  21. I am not the best person to ask on KWA Externals as I have heard horrible fitment stories and then some good ones. But, as for as better external quality, I would lean towards A&K if it were me.
  22. A SPR sounds like its moreso in your alley than a DMR. The only difference would be the Semi vs Auto/Burst and the fact that the DMR is Semi Only. (Putting it very simply in a VS between the 2 roles)
  23. I am a little insulted friend :( You called her a G&G..... G&G=Utter Crap in the SR25 Department when you are comparing it to her. My gun is the G&P SR25. Time for my usual rant, Out of the V2.5 Cylinders: G&P, CA, A&K are the ones that actually have them for SR25s. The G&P was discontinued long ago, mine was originally purchased in 2004 and discontinued shortly after that. G&P is starting to make SR25's again but they are the CNC version and only have a V2 Gearbox. And their gearbox is like the G&G version which just used a custom air nozzle from the gearbox to the hop up chamber. And the new ones are only around 600$ish, I say only because the Original G&P SR25s in their stock form are worth well over 1000$ as the only replicas are held onto tightly by their owners. I was able to purchase mine off of someone who actually wanted to sell it [they sell once in a blue moon]. Side note: I did not mean anything mean in my above statement :) just giving you a hard time. Also for externals for SR25's: G&P CA A&K
  24. Man oh man...how have I not seen this yet? I have been absent from the Forums for awhile... This is beautiful :) I do love me some V2.5 Cylinder action, yes I DO! While I am not a big fan of the bullpups, this one actually is tasting pretty good to me. Well done, I would not expect anything less from you Star, truly this is probably one of THE most deadliest skirmishing Airsoft Bullpups in airsoft.
  25. My my, very touchy. Major did not say your build was crap at all, he has his own opinion on parts and that is what he stated. You may not have explicitly said that but that is how you reacted. Perhaps I missed the part where you blatantly said: give me advice on my build constructive or deconstructive. Nor is this really the place to discuss your parts as this thread is about a motor comparison. But for the sake of your argument as you are the OP I shall touch lightly upon such items. The only great thing about the Guarder CH's that I know of is the Double O-Ring which SHS has for the same or near similar quality but for a cheaper price. I personally love the Prommy Piston heads I always swear by them. The Pistons, for their price, always SHS but I haven't really heard of much better name brands. My Systema Aluminum Piston head died on me...45$ waste and AOE was correct. If you are not worried about the shell and are not radiusing it or using an STS, I will assume you are not using a V2 gearbox or your fps is <450fps. As far as barrels go, knock yourself out with that 6.01mm barrel, seeing as you are a very very experienced tech this will work perfectly...for anything < 200 feetish....Obviously you are not the type of person who will hear much reason from the tone you have distributed so I will literally let you knock yourself out with that barrel. Hitting the motor question again, go with the Torque Motor and a 18:1 Gearset with a good 11.1v Lipo, use the Discharge rate at your discretion. That's what I would do anyways, you are running only 400fps anyways.
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