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Everything posted by azulueta

  1. Nah its not really any person individually I meant that towards. I meant it towards ALL the people who have done that. It makes sense why you would want that knowledge but figuring out what maximum effective range is is not really that hard but it takes a LOT of time. Plus the fact that their gun setup is different than yours as well as their compression. Take my DMR for instance, the only 2 guns that came close to mine in its performance were Star's L85 and apparently Age's CA SR25. Yet tons of people tried it with varying situations. Even then, I have not maxed out its effective range. Honestly in an Auto setup, anything over 150 feet of dead on accuracy for airsoft is overkill as almost every engagement takes place under 150 feet. Yet there are new players to these forums who want the 300 feet+ [a huge majority guns cannot] The longest shot I have taken in a game is 270 feet and that was a once and a life time shot as it was part of an objective and hardly does anyone ever get a clear shot like that though my gun does have that range. The biggest problem with the extreme range shots is how much it wears your Bucking/nub setup to use it as only the R-Hop and ER-Hop are really sturdy enough to take that kind of punishment for long so most of the time I have the hop up off and just increase it when I need to increase effective range as my scope is already tuned for around 300 feet on an oreo box. EDIT: I kind of just feel like, if you see the results are good but no one posted a maximum effective range or anything they did not try in most cases. If it looks good, buy some and try it instead of plaguing the shooter to gather this data. I have recieved a ton of pms on that subject. Again I meant no offense to you directly and you were not rude at all, its just a pet peeve of mine :) I just want players who WANT this knowledge to be more "hands-on" then continually spamming inboxes and threads getting the information when it may not even work like that for their setup. People learn best through their own work.
  2. Though it is a legiit question, I find it a bit annoying at times for people to continually ask, "Oh...well what's its maximum effective range?" Its not that easy to test that in any setup. Honestly people need to buy things and try it because almost every single new Hop Up Setup we have had this summer it get that question without people even trying. Even though we gave some results people wanted the maximum. I mean no offense its just a little quirk of mine because actually finding out what it is takes a bit of work... In any case I bet with the right setup at 400fps effective range would 200-230 feet at the 1~ Mark for Semi-Auto. EDIT: So that would put this around the same standard as the Flat Hop and R-Hop.
  3. Some brands have a CQB crane stock and a regular crane stock but I "think" this is a regular G&G Crane stock.. As far as Nimh goes... Elite 8.4v 1500mah Elite 9.6v 1500mah Elite Cells are highly recommended. I would continue in my usual long rant about why but just trust me and just look at the other posts. As far as Lipos go...technically if your AOE is correct/Motor Height correct/Shimming correct there isn't a problem using an 11.1v except you may want to watch out for your trigger contacts if you go above 15C. But you should be able to use a 7.4v Lipo fine without a MOSFET but its still kinda recommended, but it is much safer than the 11.1v for your trigger contacts. Since I am not sure on what size your crane stock is I can't really recommend Lipos for you. I suggest you take some measurements. Good luck! Anymore questions feel free to ask!
  4. Only if its right before a game and you don't have a choice... For NimH I go to Elite for all my batteries. Elite 9.6v 1500mah Nunchuck Get it in Deans configuration and grab a Deans from the website for your gun. :) You won't regret it.
  5. I meant full stock. Regardless my entire message was aimed at the full stock.
  6. KWA's decision on using a non-ported metal piston head never has pleased me, its helpful when using heavier bbs but that's about it. I always switched out my KWA piston heads with a Prometheus Polycarbonate Piston Head. Also the website is reliable. I would have gone with a 9.6v 5000mah though.. elite airsoft batteries has them pre-made and they DO fit in the SR12's crane stock....I believe you need a certain configuration of 10.8v cells to fit in a crane stock. In any case, good luck:) I don't think it will fit.
  7. Crossman's that are 0.20g-0.25g are fine to use in a stock barrel 9around 6.08mm if you need very cheap bbs and don't care as much about their performance. Otherwise, the cheapest BB per Dollar that I go by for 0.25g is the AirsoftGI 0.25g as you get 363 bb's per dollar and that is before coupons. At least that is what I calculated out of like AirsoftGI, goldenball, Bioshot, Airsoft Elite, G&G, AE Bulk, TSD, KSC, Goldenball Bulk, Bioshot bulk. From various websites. The airsoftgi bb's also performed exceedingly well in a test vs Airsoft Elites, just google it as I don't have the article handy.
  8. Well if you ever get bored of that, flip the bucking inside out and remove the protruding rubber appendages and such, rotate 90 degrees and wash it. Put it back into the hop up chamber and make sure the Buffer Nub is situated better and voila...you just made the Flat Hop and increased your effective range :)
  9. Well if this was in the Sniper Section I am sure I may respond to it....
  10. So...you replaced the cylindrical nub with a firefly nub...the fins still protrude either way..... Not trying to be mean but what led you to this.... thing?
  11. Humm...never heard this before. Every Guarder Spring I have shoots hot, I have 2 x Guarder Sp120's, Guarder Sp130, Guarder SP140, Guarder Sp150 and a PSG-1 Guarder SP150 [sP160-170ish] But I don't doubt what you are saying, I will have to look into this further.
  12. From my experience and what I have been told about them, PDI Springs are hit or miss. If you miss, its horrible quality...and tend to give awful consistency If you get lucky, I heard their consistency is unbelievable and they last a long time. I am fairly confident when I say that I believe their Springs are hand made.
  13. I will be honest, I am not really sure what is causing your springs to break. If it were me, I would use a Guarder SP110 and see how that fairs. Guarder Springs are renowned for their consistency over time and their build quality. If that even breaks....definitely let me know :)
  14. I got a slight whine in my SR12 when I shimmed it but I assumed it was due to the Guarder SP150 and the KWA motor working too hard lol... On my SR10 though, after it was shimmed it sounded better than before without any whining. I shim this way.... I take out most of the internals leaving the bevel gear and bushings/bearings in the upper side of the gearbox. I install the pistol grip into the right half of it and put the motor in with the parts including the spring and motor plate. [Motor is situated inside the GB if it was complete] Then Adjust motor height until its correct with the bevel gear [though its not entirely important if they are meshing correctly] Remove Pistol grip Screw the gearbox together with only the bevel gear Attach Pistol grip and its belongings.. Bevel gear should be shimmed with no lateral movement before continuing Note that it does not exactly matter yet how high the bevel gear is, only that it has no lateral movement IF the bevel gear is sitting at correct height; there should be around 0.1-0.2 mm of movement between it and the pinion Using a small flat head screwdriver to carefully rotate the bevel gear from side to side. If it sits too high, there is a lot of movement between parts. If too low, the bevel doesn't move at all or is hard to move Then add shims going from high to low or you could..go low to high Then I continue to shim the remaining gears That's just what I do...
  15. I have some ideas what could be wrong. But you might as well open it up. Although the KWA Gearbox is very proprietary with parts, the gearbox and its stock internals stay in place and I believe they are easier to work on than most V2's. Just go to a youtube video about disassembling a gearbox it really is quite simple. If you already took off the pistol grip and motor, then you basically take out the remaining external pins, unscrew the little ledge that holds the airnozzle upright, then push the gearbox out of the receiver. Then you can proceed with unscrewing the external screws that are holding the gearbox shell together. Take a small screw driver and insert it into the back hole of the gearbox where the spring guide is at and hold it down as you pry open the gearbox [I also like placing a finger on the cylinder as I am doing this] in order to keep the spring in place. Once open lift the screwdriver that is inside the spring guide up and out of the gearbox and slowly let the spring de-compress. Voila! Gearbox is now open :) Though personally, I believe its an electrical issue. If you don't want to mess anything up, just don't touch any of the smaller items and all you have to do is re-insert the spring and close it up. Just watch out for Miss. AR Latch, though she doesn't go in her period much in a KWA. In any case, just do it none-the less, you can throw in a new 14# Size Oring you find at a hardware store while you have it open. Once you have it open give it a look around, inspect the gears for wear and the trigger contacts, if all looks good we can turn to the remaining culprits. Honestly though, the KWA gearboxes are much nicer to work on IMHO, you will be fine :) if not we all have your back, just post up pictures and we will answer your questions. Its what we are here for!
  16. Oh the range finder? Well its a Cabela's Range Finder but I don't know which one as its part of my lady's father's hunting gear that we use. I asked what kind it was and all my lady knew was that she said her dad had spent around 350$ on it so, that's all I got for you. I have measured how distances with an engineering tape measure that you can get for like 15$ and its around 300 feet in length and its right on with the range finder. Does that help?
  17. Being an airsoft-tech for the money is something that would require quite a reputation or customized builds that people KNOW would work. I learned how to tech airsoft guns by teaching myself a few years back, then when I started looking up modifications on the forums I got even better. I even took it upon myself to spend 2-3 months working on a project DMR [see the signature] to gain optimum effectivness. Do I make money on airsoft tech? Slightly, most of my builds come from the airsoft community near me. The UIUC Club and Traveling Team offer more than enough guns if needed then there is numerous teams around our part of the state where no tech's of decent quality exist. I have not really tried doing it for a profit though I do make a small amount that helps pay for event fees/bbs/ etc... The way to make a huge profit is to do High-Performing Custom builds like Major9 has: Extremely reliant and high performing ROF builds seem to be his specialty though I am sure he could do others. Another good type of huge profit is to build custom High-Performing DMRs as it seems that role is still attracting numerous beginners to our sport who would like headshots and quickscopes [please forgive me ASF community for using such words here]. However both routes require extreme knowledge of parts IF you want it to compete with some of the better builds of those roles AND to impress your clients. Personally my best builds are DMRs and I can tech autos up a bit but I really am not good at high rof builds....hah :p but may be I will do a custom build someday in the future and see how it goes but as of now I have no interest. __________________________________ And high end parts are not always needed. If I wanted to sell guns for profit I would buy a JG M16 Enhanced version and use Clone parts like JG/SHS etc...and then the rest is up to my DIY Compression Mods/Shimming etc....the build itself would probably be under 250$, slap on the tech work fee and there you go. Just need to impress a client with it and they will be all over its a high-performing DMR that is at the same price as some airsoft-guns that are labeled "DMR" to attract buyers or what not. Hopefully you get the point of my jumbled little rant here. Major9 is a very high-end tech, if there is profit to be made its being just that as you truly get what you pay for if not more. The other good way to make money is being the only tech in your area [ I am talking surrounding counties not just a town] and being good at it. A large majority of the Airsoft Community doesn't even go online to these forums, so there is a lot of potential profits out there you just have to cater to them (like my area I explained earlier). In any case, being reasonable and mature about it is the best way to go. To test your work I would build yourself a custom gun, and take it to a well known tech by you or if you have the money ship it to someone to inspect, they WILL find flaws and let you know what to improve. I am not harshing your ability but with all the airsoft internals and modifications there's almost always a chance of a mistake. Good luck friend, remember being a tech is one thing, being a high end tech is another. I would say a fair amount of the ONLINE community of airsofters can do their own standard tech work but its the custom builds where "money" lays. And doing it totally for money will wear you out, do it because you love and enjoy building such things :)
  18. I forgot about that.... HS5 brings up a very valid point of which you would have lots of "fun" trying to address.
  19. Don't forget that the nail clippers are just to take off some of the large protruding rubber pieces you need to use sand paper to finely sand them down. The FPS does [spring vs Spring that you listed] does not effect range as much as Compression and the Bucking/nub you have. Those in CONJUNCTION with your fps help you achieve greater effective range. Certain Bucking/Nub combos are good with certain fps limits and certain bb weights. It all comes down to what you can research that is found all throughout these threads, seriously a lot of good material is here. Systema springs, well I have heard hit or miss things about them and I have personally never used them, sorry. I would look up some good spring brands in google or in this forum and see how other people have faired. SCS Nub Madbull 6.03mm 509mm Barrel I like ordering from fox airsoft. They are a very good airsoft dealer in my experience. They are much more efficient in their orders that I have had with them in speed/information than some other bigger name airsoft stores. They have some Spring Brands there, you could look up their brands and see if they fair well and just use them, so you can get all three from one website. Also, I do recommend getting that KWA Piston head out of there, replace it with a Prometheus Polycarbonate Ported Piston head or a JG Piston Head. Alright, hopefully everything I said made sense...I am running on very low amounts of sleep for the past few days as I am trying to break myself in for college, though I don't know why I am because I am up all night doing Engineering Homework anyways..... bah...regardless, if I did say anything wrong, some other, hopefully knowledgeable, person will correct me soon enough. As I am having trouble staying awake right now so I am heading to bed. Good luck friend! ______ Edit: Just to say this real quick, I think I mentioned this earlier, your DIY (Do It Yourself) Compression Modifications really help with your range: Teflon taping the CH or Bucking or using Dental Floss on the bucking, keeping the cylinder clean and polished to keep friction low for your O-Ring and using O ring grease that can be found easily at your hardware store for cheap. That and buying Size 14# O rings to replace on your piston head [stretch them via match lighter on an old cylinder]....etc...etc.. There are TONS more DIY mods you can do and I barely touched the surface on how they need to be touched but for maximum performance I recommend doing them. There is a stickied thread here about it.
  20. You don't need a 6.01mm barrel. I would go into the whole reason why but for now lets just say that a "tighter bore" in airsoft isn't the right idea. Its tight to an extent and 6.03mm is that sweet spot for some people. Some choose 6.03-6.05mm. I am pretty sure "fox airsoft" has that barrel as does "evike" What would be the range on the KWA 2gx...hmm well for me the kwa 2gx did best after it was "broke in" [after I had used it for awhile I got MUCH better results. And when I installed a brand new one...it changed to a large loss of effective range]. The KWA 2gx bucking is very consistent inside the effective range that it does have though that is why there are a lot of people who buy them for their out of the box performance and just get a scope on it and call it their DMR. If the bucking was broken in and you used it around 450 fps with 0.20g and used 0.28g I imagine it would be 230ish feet for semi-auto. Yes the Guarder Springs are hard to come by at times; there are some ebay stores that carry them in the US. Other than that you may have to hit an overseas and it simply isn't worth it for that shipping unless you have a lot of items. There are other springs if you can't find it at all, I was just saying I prefer the consistency Guarder gives.
  21. If you field allows that fps then ok... I would personally use a Guarder SP130 I love the consistency for their springs. With good compression you should be getting 480-500 fps with 0.20g. The only major issue with the KWA 2gx is that it was not rated for anything above 450 fps with 0.20g. That does NOT mean it will not work above that but it was not designed for it. The biggest thing is that at a higher fps and heavier bbs 0.30g+ the 2gx bucking tends to lack in the backspin it can provide. The PDI W Hold sounds like it would be a much better choice at this point as it works a bit better at 400fps+ IMHO, it should also fair well on full auto and it isn't hard to install at all, its VERY simply compared to the others, besides the KWA 2gx. On Full Auto with 480-500fps with good compression and a fine tuned hop up using Semi with the Systema and SCS and high quality 0.30g you should be able to hit 250 feet. Though I am not sure about the PDI W Hold, as I don't have the expierence with it, but I would imagine you would get 230ish feet on Semi-Auto with it for effectiveness on Semi-Auto on a man sized target [effectiveness determined by X/10 shots hit the designated target at the given range]. Though on Full Auto you should get 260ish feet. These are just some guesstimates I have made and its taking into account you have very good compression and the correct parts to go this route. Oh yes, on the note of the barrel, just spend 35$ on a Madbull 6.03mm 509mm barrel :) trust me. I am attempting to keep these explanations simple and not get too technical as you said you are new. _________________________ Excessive information aside, I would grab the PDI W Hold to start with and see how it fairs with you and some high quality 0.28g-0.30g [keep in mind using Full Auto with heavier bbs can be pricey] but I recommend AirsoftGI/Bioshot/Bioval/Airsoft Elite/Goldenball/Madbull/etc... bb brands for those weights [there are other good brands as well those are just some of my preferences]
  22. Well if you do not want to pursue the R-Hop or Flat Hop... Buy a Systema Bucking, flip it inside out and becareful with it but use nail clippers and clip off the protruding rubber parts you see [the long piece of plastic that slides into the barrel's slot and such] as well as sand down the mound a bit. Afterwards flip the bucking backout and wash it and allow it to air dry. Then rotate it 90 degrees when you place it onto the barrel so a clean and non obscured portion of it is sitting ontop of the barrel window. Then buy an SCS Spacer or PCS Spacer and simply put it where the stock nub goes [on the notch of the hop up arm] though you may have to add a bit more material to the SCS to allow it protrude a bit more into the barrel. Make sure its centered, you can assmeble and turn the hop up on and look down the barrel and see how centered in the barrel it is. If it looks good then insert and there you go. Though if you are going to be building an auto setup that you want high range on....the KWA 2gx is your best bet that doesn't require a lot of modifications. The SCS/PCS combo with the bucking is something DMR users do moreso but that doesn't mean you can't use it in an auto [the gun I used that got that range was a DMR class]. You see, saying an auto can hit 300 feet and a DMR can hit 300 feet are 2 entirely different things without adding words. Autos can easily reach long distances as their ability to saturate an area allows them to put shots further downrange whereas a DMR only gets Semi-Auto effectiveness so that each shot should count. Make sense? So its much harder to have an airsoft replica reach out on Semi than Full Auto for effective range. I am just explaining this to kind of shed some more light on the entirety of the situation. Its late, so sorry if I am being spotty on my advice. I hope this helps you understand the situation a bit more. Good luck, let us know if you have any more questions!
  23. As found in the Flat Hop thread that I referred you to..... Yes it does. It should work in almost any hop up if not all [AEG's for sure]. That applies to the Flat Hop, G-Hop, R-Hop, and ER-hop to an extent. Please read that thread for further insight. Also, if people are assuming, [Alright with this mod I can get tons of kills] well a veteran airsofter can take you out with a stock clone gun fairly easy even if you have this and a lot of the games out there are heavily wooded areas that engagements don't take place in more than 150 feet. Not trying to put anyone down I am just putting sort of a disclaimer out there, unless you have a lot of patience and spend time with your airsoft-replica and tuning it such Hop Up mods are not for you. You are better off with the SCS Nub and a Rotated Systema Bucking [I got around 270ish feet with it at 500 fps with 0.20g] and even then that takes tweaking. The PDI W Hold and KWA 2gx are good setups if you have no idea what you are doing. I just want it to be understood that these are not simply Plug and Chug modifications... Performance is the result of the tech behind the airsoft-replica and the skill of the user :) Just trying to help.
  24. The R-Hop, to put it very simply, is a more concave form of the Flat Hop but that is putting it vaguely and simply. HS5 Developed the R-Hop and you can read about it in the last 2 pages of the Flat Hop thread. Word of warning, the Flat Hop is annoying to get correct but the R-Hop is much harder than that...then you have the ER-Hop which I don't think anyone but some of the best Techs should really touch due to its patience wearing abilities. If you want to know more about the two concepts I suggest you guys read the Flat Hop Thread. ____ Why doesn't everyone have these? Because of the difficulty of actually installing it correctly and THEN actually have a gun that can utilize them correctly. The SR25 in my signature uses the Flat Hop variant and it is..more than devestating on the field :). Compression mods and tech work matter a ton. They are not common because of the amount of time and skill involved in tuning them. Most players install them and say they don't work....again....its not a plug and chug system [Lego Build].
  25. Yeah I had that typed out about causing increased wear on the motor due to quick polarity changes and abruptly causing the motor to stop and go "instantaneously" [for our purposes it is], and just saw that someone had posted something similar in a different thread and copied and pasted it...I should have read over it more. I know the SW-Jaguar is causing a lot more wear on my G&P M180.... :( Thanks for the catch.
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