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About Alex553

  • Rank
    ASF Immigrant

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    TM Desert Eagle .50 AE chrome / Maruzen M11A1 / Tanaka Luger P08 6 inch / CA M15A4 SPC / CA SAR Taktik Rifle II / KWC Mini UZI / Marushin MP40 / ARES TAR-21 DE / ESCORT MP5 / Marushin Colt Anaconda / Shoei MP44 / Tanaka M24 SWS / Tanaka Kar98 /
  1. My Mini UZI had been out of service for quite a while due to a broken spring guide, which I have now finally replaced with a reinforced steel one by Guarder. But now the magazines are giving me a hard time... When I insert a brand new capsule, the gun shoots great until about halfway through the magazine when the power starts dropping significantly, until it simply stops shooting. Then I have to stop shooting for a minute or two, and it shoots at full power again... Normally one capsule will last me about one and a half magazine on semi auto. And mine is one meant for the German market I think because it's semi only (Which was very easily converted to full) and shoots around 350fps despite generating a huge amount of noise and recoil. I'm shooting it indoors at room temperature and the magazine barely feels cold when the power drops or when I take the empty capsule out. And the capsule seals are fully pierced every time. Because it's been broken for so long and it being my only CO² powered gun, I noticed that cubergun and crossman have changed their capsules... They have a narrower neck and the gun performed better with the old ones because I still had a few lying around. From my experience with gas gun it looks like a cooldown issue, but CO² is already less vulnerable to cooldown, especially at room temperature and at semi auto... At full auto only 3 to 4 round bursts are feasible. Any ideas?
  2. And I'm having trouble finding one. Are ASG, KWA and KSC G19 parts compatible? And are there some GBB SMG barrels with the same cut as the G19 barrel?
  3. I'll look into that! How are 5KU motor's quality wise? Maybe I'll just take the plunge and buy a second modular gearset, have been very pleased with my first one! Too bad their not that cheap though.
  4. That's interesting, Iv'e been looking at SHS gears lately, seem pretty good for the price. And they also make high torque motors, or do you recommend another brand? But please don't say Systema.
  5. I bought a second hand ICS M4 a while ago and I LOVE this thing! I only got rid of the bulky NiMh battery which the previous owner had attached to the RIS using zip ties... So, I wanted to keep the retractable stock and RIS handguard, but I HATE it when I see wires in a RIS handguard.... Its just such an eyesore. So naturally I opted to put a small LiPo in the stock tube. After discovering that the standard ICS stock tube was too short, I spent hours on modding the damn gun so I could fit on a new King Arms tube which was a real pain. Now after all this was done I finally fitted a small 7.4v 1000Mah G&P LiPo battery! Problem? 11.24 RPS, that's the problem... My SG-1 shoots around 16.80 RPS with a 7.4v 1200Mah LiPo and a Modify high speed gear set, which for me is more than enough for such a long rifle. So my question is: Can you combine high speed gears with a small battery to achieve a "normal" ROF? Because when I look at online retailers they warn you that those gears should only be used with a powerful battery. So, do these tings suck up more energy then normal ones? Or do they mean that you can only achieve a high ROF when using a powerfull battery with those gears? The M4 shoots about 345fps which is just good. But it's because it's a LiPo, which don't like being discharged too quickly. I searched on the net about this, but pretty much all articles are about building a high ROF GB which I don't need.
  6. Here we go! Well I would just like to thank everyone who posted in this thread for their help!
  7. The hammer doesn't look so bad actually, when the problem was at its worst the hammer would catch on to the slide every shot at full power. I really have no clue on what is causing the fps loss... The hammer sometimes does interfere with the loading nozzle, but that's only when the slide moves backward. If I had another Hi Capa lying around I could simply swap out parts until I find out whats wrong, but I only have those few parts from my old parted out one. It's not my gun so I'll have to ask the owner (friend of a friend). They told him I was sort of an "expert" on AS guns, kinda humiliating when you bring it back saying you can't fix it and it's gotten worse to... So I'm happy with the final result! But I've never liked troubleshooting GBB's. I'll post a picture of the hammer when I get back from work ;) Oh and I'm pretty sure that if he took the thing to an AS shop they would just order a new outer barrel, hammer, sear and disconnector and charge him the full price plus hours.
  8. Ok, so I cut the hammer and she cycles smooth now... Finally! :D The hammer still catches on to the BBU when I rack it very slowly, but I'm not gonna take the risk of cutting it to short. I also did some filing on the original outer barrel and it worked for some time, but it soon started jamming again... So I replaced it with the plastic TM barrel once again and it works flawlessly! So we can be sure it was the barrel that caused it. Too bad the metal slide is damaging the paint on the plastic barrel, but its all I can do for now. She is currently shooting around 296 fps which is OK for me. Now I understand why TM uses plastic parts, the metal on metal guns just smash themselves to pieces over time. That won't happen with a hard plastic slide on a metal frame.
  9. Everyone on the SCS forum said that that was the best method. But I just ordered some new bucking's which already have a concave shaped mound, so I can just use the spacers like a regular nub. As long as it performs better than a standard nub I'm happy. I remember when Firefly bucking's were the "evolution" of hop up, or the Tanio Koba twist barrels and PDI's magic 6.08mm barrels. Then the SCS came, then flat hop and then R hop... All came and went ;) If the Asahi W2000 really was as accurate as people say, maybe we should look at when kind of hop up system that thing used. There are still a few out there so its possible. But I'll be damned to take a dremel to my precision barrel whilst there is a pretty big chance of ruining it. No offense to those who do, but I'm just not that rich XD
  10. Bought a few of these some time ago to see what all the fuss was about, haven't been too happy with them TBH. I read that to really achieve that true concave shape on your bucking you have to cut off the mound and twist the bucking to some degree. Which I did and it really looked perfect when I looked down the barrel! But... It did not give me enough hop, and I could only increase the hop until the gun started jamming. My guess is that there is too little rubber between the BB and the nub. But since "everyone else" seems to be doing it right I must have done something wrong? I also heard something about using hard type buckings, but all of my AEG's are right around 350fps according to field regulations here. Any tips? EDIT: I just realized that this should probably be in the Upgrades & Modifications section. Feel free to move it, would have done it myself if I could :)
  11. I can't even unscrew the barrel with force, so it's either an older model or its really stuck. I would grind down the hammer if it was my pistol, but I'll let the owner make a choice; Let me cut it, buy a new one or keep it as it is. Checked it several times. Since I opened this thing up iv'e had over 5 different problems instead of the 2 original ones... Right now everything works accept that the hammer is still catching the slide. I'm going to ask the owner if I can cut the hammer. I think iv'e taken it apart about 30 times now. I need a distraction before I throw the damn thing into a wall.
  12. Yes I did. And at a certain moment the hammer wouldn't even strike but it would only drop to half cocked position. I think this was because the middle prong of the leaf spring was pressing down to hard on the sear. After messing around with it a little more I managed to stop that from happening, but now it's this...
  13. Ok managed to fix that. But after all that tinkering things got real messy... I can now clearly feel that the hammer doesn't hit that hard anymore, and a quick fps test confirmed this. From around 330 fps to 250 now This I why I love my Glock
  14. Those aren't touching in my case. Are the middle prong and the metal rod that's attached to the hammer supposed to touch when you pull the trigger?
  15. Here are some pictures I took. I could not find any damage or wear on the hammer and sear. The leaf spring in it's current condition. Position of the leaf spring when installed.
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