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About Anachro12

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 01/28/1971

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    Virginia USA
  • Interests
    Xbox ID Anachro12<br />Movies, Motorcycling (have Honda Rc51 1000cc V-twin sportbike)<br />target shooting with realsteel, cooking and hanging out with my dogs.

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    OWN: G&G G2010, KWA SR10 2gx, KWA Glock 23f, KWA Glock 19, CA M15A4 SOCOM, CA Sa58, Cyma Spetznatz AK, AGM Hk416, M72LE Lawgiver SOLD:Top Tech T4-18, KWA KMP9, JG Sig 552, WE 7" Xecelerator Dragon Hi-CAPA PROJECTS: Diablo DSG with stubby full stock and MUR-1 Receiver

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  1. Consider as well that Hs5 tested many many different materials to come up with his current patches. He is still testing even more to find out if there is a better alternative. A lot of these copycats are just finding whatever looks close and calling it a day. Buy from the copycats and you are most likely getting an inferior product and only saving a few bucks. Do the right thing and buy the real deal. Or cut your own and keep it to yourself. Leveling the market on a product that does not cost that much is just taking the profit away from everyone, including the creator. Hey, if you come up with a superior product then market that. Otherwise you are just leeching off of someone elses work.
  2. The G&P M4 is a great platform magpul or not as you will be able to interface any G&P M4 based upper and lower together. This will allow you to expand your arsenal by buying just an upper or just a lower. With the 416 it is going to work with just the 416. I have gotten a vfc m4 lower to fit a vfc 416 upper but some dremeling had to be done to make it work. So VFC will vary a bit in their spec between 416 and m4. It is nice to carry a gun bag with an extra lower that has a different fps spring so you can change from a cqb to a field role. Likewise if you base all your builds off of full cylinders you can swap an upper and change from a short field gun to a DMR role and gain a few fps from a longer barrel. So I base all my guns off of G&P builds. I have a Polarstar lower and an aeg lower in case I run out of air and the field doesn't have any available. Both VFC and G&P have decent internals with things I change immediately VFC: change piston and self shimming gears G&P: change piston and gears (although I have heard the new gears are better)
  3. Cyma 190 rd m4 midcaps. They will keep up and have a nice concave follower. About 10 bucks shipped from HK
  4. Loc I have an almost unused G&P m120 I will do for 20 shipped. I pulled it out of my new gun when I bought it. I didn't cycle it but they probably did to test fire the thing.
  5. It is probably as simple as removing the stock and tightening the stock screw with a phillips or hex driver (whichever is in there). Some buffer tubes also have a cover on the back and will require removal of that. Make sure the screwdriver you use is nice and long and a flashlight definitely helps. Some buffer tubes also have mini set screws on the outside of the buffer tube right at the end that touches the gun. Make sure to loosen those before tightening the one inside and then tighten the small set screws. Lastly, many buffer tubes have a collar which is tightened last against the receiver for additional tension. This should be done last.
  6. I still see issues with the pistons and still see issues with the gears although someone reported that they now have different spindles. I have not seen one yet. Like others the first thing I do with a G&P is to replace the gears and piston. (spring guide too if a higher performance build)Then you are in great shape as their GB is nice and strong and the bearings are nice as well.
  7. The only time that switching barrels between guns will change accuracy of that particular barrel will be when the bucking fitment changes, as in a too tight hop unit compressing the bucking lips in a weird way. But that is an airseal issue not a barrel issue. KWA's have a tight hop unit so sometimes a thick bucking will not work as well. That being said, if you have an r-hopped barrel, then your choice of bucking becomes less important, you can use the stock KWA 2gx bucking which is thinner in a kwa hop unit and it will seal fine and work fine with most barrels (fins removed of course and no more than 425ish fps). But a barrel is either consistent diameter or not consistent on the inside. It is either smooth or it is not smooth. It will not change those characteristics moving from one aeg to the next. f course it is always important to stabilize the inner to outer barrel fit and to stabilize the barrel/hop group to the gearbox with o-rings and/or gearbox shims. So what I am thinking Hs5 is saying is that as long as you perform your due dilligence in moving a barrel from one gun to the next, then that barrel should have very similar performance characteristics. But if you just drop a barrel into a gun and don't perform the minor tweaks that you should always do, then you might see a difference in performance and falsely attribute that difference to the barrel instead of the different environment that the barrel in which the barrel is now placed. For example, say the new gun has a much wider outer barrel, the barrel will have the opportunity to vibrate much more. You must always shim the inner to outer (which you say you do) Another example would be if the new setup has a different nozzle which is too long and pushing the bb too far into the barrel. (you must then add shims between the gearbox and hop unit) Of course you will always want to remover the hop spring in front of a typical hop unit and add orings in front to make the hop/gearbox fitment as tight as possible to get consistent airseal. So any relevant comment in these posts should address that these things have been performed and you still see a difference. Plus I do agree, silicone is a poor choice of barrel shim as it will still allow vibration. Different outer barrel inner diameters would then become an issue. When shimming outer to inner barrel you need a stiff shim so that the outer and inner barrel become as one. The outer barrel then stabilizes the inner in a rock solid fashion.
  8. A P* as a DMR can be semi only, deviate very little in power between shots and if set up properly will be relatively silent. Win Win Win.
  9. I know a lot of airsofters hate the influence that video games have on the sport but it doesn't phase me. Brings some people in that eventually can become great players.And once in awhile something cool happens. I was down at Fulda gap scenario in NCarolina this weekend where there were over a thousand players. LBT/LBX came down and had a paint booth for guns and also showed off some of their new Project Honor camo that is being released in conjunction with MOHWF. It is based off the LBT lion and is some really cool chunky digital camo. I want it! I love the unique pattern and feel it would perform well in a variety of conditions. What do you think?
  10. So one of my friends got a flexible cleaning rod in the mail for airsoft. I was playing with it and thinking to myself that I would like to make one for myself... Interesting idea, reminded me of the cleaning rods I used to carry with me in my old paintball days. I have some flexible cleaning rods for my rifles as well but the metal head would be too rough for an airsoft barrel. So I looked at the basic design of this airsoft cleaning rod. Looked like a nylon rod a bit smaller than the diameter of an airsoft barrel with two “heads” composed of a grainy plastic material. With all the popularity of Shapeways nowadays and having ordered some printed objects myself it seemed like these were a printed plastic product. Flexible, but in the end not as durable as the nylon rod. I felt that if I bent the head back on itself that it would probably break. One was shaped with an angle to clear bbs and the other side had a loop so that you could insert a cleaning patch of your choice. Simple enough and effective. Still, knowing how expensive shapeways products cost to order I began thinking of an alternative. I thought awhile on this and found myself wishing I could just mold them out of the same material as the rod itself. Then they could be bent back on themselves to no detriment. I could shove the rod coiled up into the cargo pocket of my BDU pants and not worry that they were going to break and need to be replaced. That’s when it hit me. Why bother to make separate “heads” out of any material. Why not just modify the existing rod, I mean just like 90 percent of the people reading this post I have a dremel too! So I looked on Mcmaster Carr for a suitable rod and came up with this: 8538K13 Wear-Resistant Nylon Rod, 3/16" Diameter, 5' Length. The cost was relatively cheap and 3/16 = 4.76mm. That meant I could have a rod thick enough to be strong and thin enough to allow the use of a thin patch for barrel cleaning. I bet 1/8” would also be strong enough to use but I haven’t tried it. So I used a set of snips to cut one end at an angle: And then I clamped the rod into my bench vise and used a cutoff wheel in order to make a slit. This is definitely the hardest part so be careful. Make sure to be on the correct angle and use high dremel speed not pressure to make the cut. Every once in awhile, clean off the wheel so the plastic doesn’t get too thick on the wheel. When you get halfway, just turn the rod over and cut from the other side. And Voila! You are done. I recommend making the rod just a bit longer than necessary so that in the unlikely case that it ever breaks you will be able to cut another slot for yourself. And if it ever gets too short, the rods are so cheap that you won’t break the bank ordering more. You can make a little Velcro strap for yourself to hold it in a coil and have a nice rod you can shove in your pack or cargo pocket for field maintenance or unjamming in the heat of battle. Good luck!
  11. Caveat Emptor, let the buyer beware. There is NO way I would send a trade to someone first with no feedback on a newer profile.
  12. Anachro12

    Bioshot BB's

    I have broken them open too and found the same result as Airborne101. I have had no issues with feeding in Cyma 190 round m4 mids, and any high caps (as Airborne said due to them being single stack.) Echo I dogs of war mids have the same concave follower design as the cymas (I think they are rebrands) so those work well with bioshots too. I have also had excellent no jam feeding in Magpul PTS midcaps (120rd) and the new polymer KWA mids.
  13. Paintball guns typically don't use a hop up, some like flatlines will use an lrb concept. A typical momentary hop nub will fling a bb against the ceiling of the barrel of an airsoft gun, the nub applies momentary force to which the bb must react. Because it collides with the top of the barrel physics says it will bank and hit the bottom. Then it will do this back and forth until it stabilizes somewhere going out the end of the barrel. This is why true tightbores of 6.01 are NOT a good idea, they just allow more collisions by being tighter. An rhop applies gentle longer contact. It allows the bb to have backspin applied over a longer time and the bb will tend to ride the barrel on the top out to the end of the barrel. Yes some tightbores are decent and cheap but I wouldnt go below 6.03 in any case. And if I had the money I would first spend it on an rhop as this will drastically improve consistency. Also...paintballs are not the same as bbs in their properties, a paintball is a fluid filled bag that changes shape when force is applied. A bb is much more rigid and so will have a more uniform shape and different characteristics. A paintball is more akin to lobbing a water balloon in some ways than spinning a hopped bb. To the OP. A must for f2000 owners is the sling from Urban-ERT. Best piece of equipent I own and it keeps the f2000 up higher than others. I can hold a suitcase bomb in one hand and shoulder my f2000 with the other and still effectively use it when I use my Urban Ert sling. Urban Ert F2000 sling
  14. Yeah due diligence is important to oust any possible scammers. I always ask in writing if the item is in working condition and if there are ANY blemishes or problems with the items I am buying. Then I keep the PMs as records of the transaction in case things go wrong. Yes it is wrong if someone intentionally leaves out information. But it is better to always ask so there is clarification at the onset of the trade.
  15. 6.03 is the tightest I would go, any tighter and you will lose accuracy because the bb will more likely impact the walls of the barrel and affect spin and trajectory. As for length 455mm is generally considered to be the most accurate but not by much. You wont notice a great bit of difference going smaller than that. If you go over that you will start to see a decrease in accuracy because of the tendency for the bbs to strike the walls of the barrel and also because you are coming closer to the limits of volume that a full cylinder can produce (unless you are using a P*) There have also been reports of high accuracy from extremely short wide barrels 6.08+. The theory is that the air cushion will stop the bbs from contacting the barrel at all so no bouncing means a more consistent trajectory. Personally I like to stick with a 6.03 or 6.04 barrel 455mm and ER-hop. LRB if I can help it. With any of these a bb will be gently spun and ride the top of the barrel on the way out. This will stabilize spin and use the whole barrel as one big hop unit.
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