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Nosedive4130

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About Nosedive4130

  • Rank
    ASF Immigrant

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Texas
  1. Lolz, Actually, One of those 2 G&P's is mine... ;-) But, he know's what he's talking about no doubt. The G&P that I have is the Magpul MOE CQB. G&P makes good guns. They will shoot, but, they have some quirks to them that (Sadly) in my opinion make VFC a better gun. VFC seems to have quite a bit better Quality Control over what they let leave the factory. The other G&P that Standard4130 is referring to is an M249. It came from the factory complete with a cracked Gearbox. If you buy a G&P, you will want to get rid of the "Explosive" piston head. They have that nickname for a reason... Also, the Dust Covers were engineered to NOT Close, and the bolt catch is not functional, and, as far as I'm aware, most if not all of G&P's M4's have a 14mm Clockwise thread on the end of their barrels. The standard flash hider / suppressor thread is 14mm Counter Clockwise. I run my rifle on an 11.1v 2200mah 25c lipo and let me tell you, rate of fire was awesome for about 200 rounds worth. That is when the stock G&P M120 (High Speed) motor blew. Guess what it was replaced with. A stock VFC Motor. That stock VFC motor has been running great for the last year and a half. All of the things mentioned that are quirky with the G&P's are not that way with the VFC's. I also believe VFC's finishes are quite a bit better as well. The only 2 or 3 things wrong with the VFC's are: 1. It's piston should be changed as Standard4130 says, if you upgrade the spring. If the spring is left alone, the stock piston will work great. 2. If you change pistons and decide to not use the SRC, be very aware of how tight or loose the pistons guide rails are when installing. This is a moot point if you never replace it. 3 The only other thing you should have to worry about is the fake bolt. The piece of sheet metal that slams forward when you release the bolt catch has a tendency to sheer the teeth off of the little hop-up gears over time unless you take it out and grind a nice radius / relief on the top forward corner. So, in short, if you are looking for an airsoft rifle that is rock solid and built the closest to one that is real, Buy yourself a VFC. If these things don't really matter to you, and you initially would like to save a few bucks (and I literally mean just a few), then buy a G&P.
  2. Are there any more updates on this? Very interesting stuff. Thanks for all the hard work so far!
  3. Are any of the three M4 grips that you have for sale VFC Brand?
  4. Sent you a PM about Items number 16, 17, and 26 stating that I would like to purchase these from you. If you didn't get it in your inbox, then please send me one. Thanks.
  5. Nevermind, I just realized that you sold the G&P Lower on Ebay....
  6. I'm interested in your Aimpoint Comp M2 Replica, is it still up for grabs?
  7. I'm interested in the G&P Zombie Lower, but I have a couple of questions. 1. What size are the bushings/bearings in the GB and 2. do you have the bolt catch included with this sale?
  8. I may be completely way off base, but, your timing on the Cheetah 2n may be off. I have just recently experienced this, but it was not while in semi, it was when I was in 3 shot burst mode. Are you completing the whole 5 shot string process when you power your gun up? If not, then this might be part of the problem. If you are, then make sure that your piston is in the forward most position before you power up. If you are not, then the mosfet records the timing as one full stroke when you power up, the problem is that it really isn't one full stroke. This is why it's important to fire those first five shots off. Also, whenever you have been firing in 3-shot burst or full auto, afterwards, you need to make sure to fire off a few shots in semi-auto before you disconnect the battery. If not, then when you power it back up, it will start from the wrong spot and your timing will be off. Hope this helps.
  9. Hi there, I am definately interested in buying your JG AK47S Underfolder, but I'm wondering what it would take to attach the Front Sight. Is the Stock Sight included or will I have to find a replacement? Better Yet, please let me know in pm where to send paypal. Thanks
  10. Something that might be worth mentioning is that some people like to use the Silicon oils commonly available in spray cans. I personally know for a fact that the propellant used in some of these cans are known to be harmful to o-rings and also to certain plastics. I am currently having a hard time finding a silicon oil locally that I can fill the oil port with that is not in a "spray can". Ah the confusion...
  11. Hello All, First post here. I am from the East Texas Area, and am fairly new to airsoft. A couple of people that I work with have recently purchased some airsoft equipment, and it has spawned an interest. Such an interest, that I now have a KWA MP7A1 and a few extra goodies being shipped to me at the moment. I wish to expand my knowledge in airsoft, and would like to keep a keen eye on the B/S/T Threads. Might come across some good deals. My name comes from my BMX and Dirtbike racing days. Long story short, whenever I would hit a jump, I would have the tendency to land with my nose pointing a little too far down... Hence "Nosedive". The Numbers behind my name have two meanings. 1st, 4130 is a grade of steel commonly used in high end racing frames. 2nd, I am a machinist, I grew up in a machine shop, I know my way around a whole lot of steel alloys. 4130 and the alloys very near it are used in a plethora of jobs in the industry. I am a pretty avid collector of Firearms, and have always been intruiged by the mechanical side of things. I have a background in R/C and electronics. You could see why I would be drawn to this sport. I am currently kicking myself for buying a GBB instead of an AEG because I'm already seeing the endless possibilities of modding an AEG. Anywho, It is nice to meet you all. Time for me to go and learn some stuff...
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