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About andrewgk

  • Rank
    ASF Immigrant
  • Birthday 01/27/1993

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Laguna Niguel
  1. Hello, I'm looking for a nice GBB that hasn't seen too much wear and is in good working condition. I live in the USA and will only pay through PayPal. I've been drooling over the WE PDW for a while now but will settle for other rifles at the right price. The maximum I will pay for a rifle is $250. I am not looking for pistols. It would be preferable that the rifle make is from one of the bigger airsoft companies like G&G, WE, etc. I am not interested in any guns that need fixing, even if it is an "easy fix". Knowing me, I will screw it up somehow. If you are interested in selling your rifle to me, please PM me with pictures of the gun. A video would be extremely nice and appreciated but not necessary. Thanks Andrew
  2. Definately thought my gearbox was a V3... guess not. Thanks for the info!
  3. Looking to buy a V2 Gearbox that is properly shimmed and has absolutely no problems with it. I'm looking for a gearbox that I can just drop into my Tokyo Marui G3. The gearbox that I have now has been giving me big headaches. My budget is pretty low so I can't afford any fancy Systema gearboxes. I just need something that is shooting 300+ FPS and is durable. High RPS? High FPS? I don't care. As long as its affordable and reliable. Thanks Andrew
  4. If you want to part out the G3 mags, I'm looking for about 6.
  5. I'm looking for some standard G3 Mid-Caps that feed well. I don't care much about the actual look of the magazine so long as it is black and isn't super beaten up (LOTS of of big scratches and dents). I'm looking to buy around 6. I would prefer the ones that are 120 Rds each. I am NOT looking for low-cap magazines (20rds). Thanks! Andrew P.S. I only do transactions through Paypal.
  6. I think they will easily take over the side arm department (if they have not already). Not too sure about primary weapons though. Most people put out a fair amount of shots per game meaning that they would have to blow through a lot of gas. This obviously isn't a problem for mil-sim oriented players because they use less shots in a game (consuming less BB's and gas obviously). I believe that they will take over the side arm department (which arguably has already occurred) because most players don't put out nearly as many rounds with their side arm as compared to their primary. Also, EBB pistols are fairly weak and most EBBs are pretty crappy and break easily. Well crafted EBBs cost a lot and many of them cost more than gas pistols which often still have better accuracy and FPS/range when compared to high end EBBs.
  7. I'm too cheap to buy gas (it already kills me to use BB's! XD) and dealing with seals and stuff is annoying. I am considering buying a GBB sidearm though... although EBB sounds tempting. The low FPS on EBB is a big turn off so I might opt for a GBB. Also, gas magazines are annoying; not only do you have to fill it up with BB's, you have to fill it with gas. Usually the gas in the chamber lasts longer than the number of rounds your magazine can hold so you never know when you're going to run out of gas. This also makes magazines expensive. Where as AEG magazines are cheap because all they need is a spring to push BB's into the barrel.
  8. The only thing I can think of is to identify team mates.
  9. A person working on minimum wage (at least in California) gets $17,000 a year assuming they're working the average 2000 hours at $8.50. Now you're 14, meaning you go to school; this means you can only legally work 18 hours a week when school is in session. Most schools have the standard 180 days of school, meaning that you are limited to approximately 26 weeks of restricted work (180 / 7 = # of weeks). 26 Weeks working 18 hours a week gives you 468 work hours. Now for the remainder of the year you may work for a maximum of 40 hours. 364 Days in a year minus 180 of the school days leaves you with 184 free days. Law restricts the number of work hours per week (when school is not in session) to 40 hours a week. If you divide 184 by 7 to get the number of weeks, it is approximately 26 weeks. 26 Weeks times 40 hours a week equals 1040 hours. Add the two numbers I calculated: 1040 + 468 = 1508 total worked hours. This assumes you worked consistently and never missed a day of work (3 Hours maximum per school day and 8 Hours maximum per non-school day). So if you were making $8.50 an hour and worked 1508 hours in a year your income would be $12,818. Add the California tax and you are losing $256. (12,818 * .02 - 2% Tax for this salary range). So now you end up with $12,562. Divide 30,000 by that number to get the number of years and it would take approximately 2.4 years. All these calculations assume you are in California, worked consistently, and did not spend any of your money anywhere else. Flaws: A job in construction? Law does not allow minors (under 18) to work in any environment which present hazardous conditions I.e. dust from cutting wood, using any type of machine to do work- this includes hammers, saws, etc. You are 14, so that means you have been working since you were 11. You specifically state that you 'had' one in construction meaning that you are not currently employed. No one hires 11 year olds. If you claim you drew schematics and crap like that, there are literally 1000's of other more qualified people that can fill your position. You worked consistently for 3 years; 11-14 year olds don't have that type of consistency. What could you possibly spend 30,000 on? A super expensive gun costs approximately $1,000- you mean to tell me that you have anywhere up to 30 of them? Where the hell are you keeping all these guns? An average gun costs $300, meaning you have at maximum 100 laying around your house; your parents must be pretty pissed off at that. How many different externals/internals/gear/bb's can you buy? Theres only so many different ones that you can buy. As far as I'm concerned, I'm calling BS on you. $30,000 to a 14 year old is literally unbelievable. P.S. Read my siggy.
  10. Looking for a set of black knee and elbow pads shipped for $20 (Last of the money on my prepaid debit card). I don't really care what condition they're in as long as they're not falling apart and don't smell funky. I'm also interested in woodland, but I'd prefer black!
  11. Like stated above, some good shoes and mask will take you a long way. Sorry if I'm telling you a lot more than you need to know! Some other things you should consider are: Knee pads and elbow pads (You never know when you're going to need to kneel or go prone), tactical vest to carry your mags!, and most importantly BBs (you cant shoot anyone if you don't have ammo! Oh and one more thing! Gloves! Quick note: Please please please don't buy mesh masks for yourself or any of your family members. They are dangerous! BB's can potentially shatter on the mesh sending BB fragments into your eyes. So instead of going for convenience (mesh mask) go for safety (tradition mask)! Besides, many fields will not let you use mesh masks. Heres a vest that's pretty cheap and has all the basic necessities. Admittedly not as durable nor as customizable as a condor plate carrier, but it'll get the job done! I have one and it works great; velcro pouch on the back can be used to carry a water bladder for quick hydration on the field, the pistol holster can be removed and replaced with a magazine panel that goes on (making a total of 6 magazine pouches), one vest has enough mag pouches for two or three people, comes with a web belt which can be used for leg holsters and other things, back panel has molle so you can strap on whatever you like back there, comes in 7 (I think) different colors, and super cheap. http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=28491 For BB's I would recommend Bioshot, they are super cheap ($15 for 5000 rds of 0.25 or $13 for 0.20), have flat shipping ($4!), arrive fast, are perfectly round, have no air bubbles. Also, many outdoor fields require biodegradable BBs. http://www.bioshotbb.com/store/index.php?_...amp;productId=2 As far as gloves go, they're an item of preference. Getting hit on the fingers or knuckles hurts like a mother, so if you can take the pain I would go gloveless. Getting into your pockets can be extremely difficult if you have gloves on. If you do get gloves, try to find low profile gloves (easier to get inside your pockets). Usually you'll want to get the kids some of these, otherwise they'll just drop airsoft because of the pain! A lot of people use these gloves because they are cheap and seem to do everything well! I've seen people use them for mountain biking and am surprised (being fairly new to airsoft myself) that people also use them for this sport. http://www.mechanix.com/the-original-glove These can be found virtually anywhere, I've seen them at Home Depot, Walmart, Target, anywhere! Durable and cheap! Also you may want to consider getting some of these: http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=24715 Some fields (like SC Village) require this to be on your gun muzzle when you bring it to their field for safety purposes. As far as masks go I can only tell you my preferance. http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=30226 This mask has a wide range of view, allows you to use the iron sights on your gun, and has fans on top of the goggles to keep your goggles from fogging! Theres enough space inside for you to wear prescription glasses and the plastic face guard is removable if you just want to use the goggles. The only draw back to it is if you're looking to play airsoft as military re-enactment. The goggles are fairly wide and protrude a little oddly from your face, making it look kind of cheesy. Although, with the right equipment you could pull off the look. Note that most, if not all, goggles are sold as treated with antifog but they aren't sufficient enough to keep from fogging! In order to have the antifog work properly, you must clean your goggles regularly and reapply the solution every time you clean it. With a fan built into your goggles, you don't have to worry about that and it provides 100% fog free vision. Two settings on the goggles allow for different speeds on the fan (to conserve battery life) and on the 2 AAA batteries it uses, you can go for a couple games without replacing them. Also, the fans are super quiet! As for kneepads and elbow pads, anything should really do. As long as it protects you!
  12. Today I was winding up my G&G Hi-Capacity Magazine for my G3 and I maxed out the spring tension (thus making the 'click' sound). I went to fire and it unloaded all of the BB's inside the loading tube but the BB's in the well were not loading up. The wheel kept making the 'clicky' noise that it makes when you max out the tension on the spring. I took the magazine out and opened it up completely, and heard the spring unwind as the gears separated and were allowed to unwind freely. I had the same problem with another G&G Hi-Cap that I had so I put it all back together and loaded up some BB's. I once again was able to shoot out all of the BB's in the loading tube but the BBs from the well would erratically load up into the loading tube. I once again took apart the magazine and took it completely apart. Amidst taking it apart, I accidently popped open the chamber which holds the spring and the spring popped out, completely unwinding itself. Now all I have is a broken mag and an insanely long wire (which used to be curled up in a circle which acted as the spring). Is there any way to fix it? (I tried winding it up, but couldn't figure out where the end piece folded into the chamber. The end piece of the wire is bent back with a little notch in it which is supposed to lock into one of the many holes inside the chamber that holds the spring). Is it worth fixing? On a final note, I was wondering; why is my gun sometimes firing dry? I have no idea how much RPS the gun has because I don't have a chrono but would estimate that it fires about 20 RPS dry. When I fire it with BB's, it will shoot out BB's at approximately 10-12 RPS and shoot blanks in-between. It happens a little less frequently with my mid-cap and quite frequently when using a Hi-Cap that is not wound up very tightly. The mid-cap is a 70 round 2 year old Tokyo Marui Magazine and the Hi-Cap's are G&G brand which aren't that old. Is this normal?
  13. Mine doesnt have a creaky stock and the forearm is barely creaky (completely fixed if you take a little time with electrical tape). All you have to do is drop in a stronger spring for like $10 and your gun is set for two years or more. At least thats how mine is.
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