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Everything posted by Neotyguy40

  1. Ahh, okay. So what would work better, a Laylax orange, or PDI hard piston? Is there any major differences? I see that the orange piston has an air brake, so if I want to maintain my FPS, I should get a PDI, right? However, the PDI piston uses O-rings, which tend to easily rip (though they are easily replaceable).
  2. Wha- wha- wha- what!? Where did you hear that? I hope you are going off of intuition and not an actual source. That would be very depressing. And I hope you're joking when you say no one is carrying upgrade parts for it. The thing is, they generally make the gun in batches, and they get sold out VERY quickly. Right now, Airsoft Atlanta seems to be getting all the TM guns in the states (exaggeration; others get some too). They actually have some in stock right now: Pro-sniper version. G-spec version. Real-shock version. They also have hundreds of parts dedicated for VSR guns: VSR-10 Parts. If you don't want to pay the high price of a non-clone, or you don't plan on upgrading it too much, I would just get the Javelin.
  3. IMO opinion, this is how it seems for the systems: VSR-10 < APS-2 - (when not upgraded) VSR-10 > APS-2 - (when upgraded) When talking about the Javelin vs. BAR-10, I would say it is sort of the same. If you're just looking for stock performance, then the Javelin will hit at much further distances. And the Javelin is more durable than the BAR-10 (and what do you expect from $180, plastic?) If you are willing to, you should get a TM VSR-10 over both of those if you plan to be spending a good amount of money on upgrades. It would have much more durability than both of those that you're looking at. Otherwise, it just comes down to how much you are planning to upgrade and how well you take care of it.
  4. Would that require getting a new spring guide as well? Or will my normal PDI one fit the piston fine? Will I need to replace the spring too? The spring is a 13mm OD and 11mm ID.
  5. I'll try to make this quick. My PDI Hard Piston that I installed in my BAR-10 has broke. The end of it that is suppose to catch onto the 90-degree trigger (I have a v-trigger if relevant) has been ripped off of the rest of the piston (which ruined the threads it attaches by). The spring I use is a %250 SPR, and I am using the correct spring guide. Everything else in the cylinder is stock. I thought that the hard piston would be able to stand up to that spring (many people can put %300 springs in with no problem). When this happened, the o-ring on the tip of the piston broke off and jammed the piston from being caught on the trigger (which effectively ripped the piston from itself). Anyone hear of this issue? I'm going to put an order in for another in case it was a bad piston. I've never heard of this happening before though.
  6. Theoretically, semi auto guns do have less potential than bolt action when it comes to accuracy. However, this is only due to the vibrations the motor gives, and it does not make much difference. In fact, you can argue that it is equal because the trigger on bolt action rifles require more pull. However, again this makes almost no difference. This is a very debatable subject, and I would not see it in one way or the other. However, what is not as debatable is the loudness of the gun. A motor will always be much louder than any BASR you will find. Even with my rifle upgraded to 570 FPS, it barely gives even one-tenth the noise that the motor alone on a semi-auto sniper does. Motors give off a high-pitched and longer lasting sound than the piston in a BASR gives off. This causes noise that is easily noticeable for hundreds of feet. Many people know a couple of ways to bring the noise down, but even then I've never heard a semi-auto sniper get nearly as quiet as a BASR. The moment you shoot that thing, they know your position. Another thing I'd like to point out is that even though the RS SVD has a lower FPS than most rifles? It does not effect it at all. I've seen it in action, and once you tune it a bit you will be hitting 200-250' easy... Remember, when it comes to sniping, semi-auto is not going to be better than bolt-action (not saying it is worse, but when it comes to actual sniping such as stalking and giving intel, it makes no real difference). When it comes to DMR though, it is much better to get a semi-automatic weapon. Speaking of which, does anyone know of any good, reliable, gas, semi-automatic sniper rifles? I think that would solve much of the "noise" issue I described before...
  7. Check the gearbox and motor for any damage to the gears or piston teeth. It could be that one of the teeth is not catching all the way and releases the piston slightly early. Otherwise it is probably an air-seal issue (though I doubt it considering it is dropping 90 FPS).
  8. By fitting problems... You mean the receiver and outer barrel? I see no fitting problems, even after replacing all the internals. Where did you get this information from?
  9. What is your budget, and what is your field's FPS limit?
  10. Not to the spec of the TM perfectly? What do you mean? everything has the same dimensions as the TM version. From what I see, if you plan on upgrading the gun completely, then the only difference would be non-performance factors. The only thing that would be different would be the stock, the outer barrel, and the receiver. The outer barrel and receiver on the JG are both fully metal, and the stock on the JG model is so nice that you wouldn't even want to replace it. However, unless you plan on upgrading everything soon after you get the rifle, I would always recommend the VSR over the BAR.
  11. I'm gonna have to say Airforce. The technology they use far surpasses the other branches, and I guess that makes me a little biased in that way.
  12. The stock hop-up unit on the L96 is horrible in my opinion. I highly suggest getting a PDI hop-up chamber. It is the best anywhere that you will be able to find. You can even order it from a stateside retailer: http://www.Airsoftatlanta.com/PDI_VSR_10_H...ber_p/64000.htm
  13. Yea, I'm going to call BS on that one... At 70 meters, a .2g BB will have almost no energy left. It would be going at only 10 FPS by the time it reaches the target. If he used a .3g BB like he says, he would literally have just over .01 joules of energy left, which would be about 30 FPS. You got any video of yourself shooting? I want to see this for myself.
  14. I've used synthetic thread in my suit, and I have to tell you, it breathes 10x more than jute, burlap, or any other material I've used. I don't even notice it is there!
  15. As much as I appreciate it (I don't really, but I enjoy sarcasm a lot more than most), I think I made the wrong impression. It's not that I don't have the strength to pull it back, but after 2-3 shots my shoulder ends up hurting and my hands start getting sore. My gloves help, but it pushes up against my shoulder.
  16. Neotyguy40

    new bioshot bb's!

    They told me they were looking into higher weighted BBs a while ago on their page... But I didn't expect them to start it so soon! I hope they are .36g! That would be perfect.
  17. Well, I actually recently got a V-trigger today and experienced a 'similar' problem. You sort of need to force it into the small wedge behind the spring guide. I used a small mallet to tap it in.
  18. Don't know why your Zero-trigger doesn't fit. What part of it doesn't fit? If your field FPS limit is 525 (with .2g?) then you should know that a M150 Spring is pushing it (especially with the tightbore barrel, not to mention teflon sealing). However, I do not know how the scaling system Laylax uses goes by. For a hop-up, I actually suggest getting a PDI Hop-up chamber if possible. It is the best one you can get and it comes with their own bucking that is really good. If this isn't an option, I've heard many great things about Nineball, and Firefly seems to be popular too, but I've never used them myself. As for BBs, you are going to want no less than a .3g. However, it is all about the brand quality that matters once you reach higher speeds (when the BB stops gliding and starts flying XD). From my experience, I've had best experience with Bioshot and Goldenballs, however, I've heard many good things about Bioval as well. Currently, I am using some KSC BBs, and while they are pretty accurate I've noticed many dimples and imperfections on a large percentage of the BBs. It strangely doesn't seem to effect accuracy, but I would still be weary about them. The important thing is to never used BBs that have special coatings on them, such as Madbull. It is better to have a .3g GoldenBall than a .36g Madbull.
  19. EBBs are not considered AEPs for the same reason springers are not considered sniper rifles. They suck. There is no good EBB pistol out there, even if it was from some high-end company. I doubt that pistol can go more than 70', and don't even think about it being accurate past 20'. If you say you are going all the way or not at all, then you definitely should not get this one. I would actually say this is very overpriced considering it is an EBB. I would actually be genuinely surprised if it lasted more than a few games. If you want a good electric pistol, then you need to get an actual AEP. If you want a cheap one then get a CM030.
  20. I received a %250 SPR PDI spring for my BASR. It shoots really nicely! But I find it is very difficult to pull back. I am pretty much under the impression it will get a lot easier as I break it in. But I was hoping someone could tell me if there is an easier way to break in the spring then to just fire it a couple hundred times. Could I just pull back the spring and leave it there for an hour or two? Would that help? Would it also be easier if I removed the small white plastic piece from my PDI spring guide? I'm assuming that would allow the spring to come all the way back to the base of the guide, making it easier to pull back.
  21. Well for starters? A new gearbox, a new spring, piston, barrel, hop-up, and possible even the body itself... On second thought? Get a new gun. I have no idea why you would even think to get a cheap gun like that for all those video games.
  22. I've used those charts in my BB equations before. However, even then remember that all hop-ups are different, and all buckings are different too. A hard bucking will give a different amount of power than a soft, and a TM hop-up will be different than a PDI. A gun with 400 FPS can easily reach 200 feet with hop-up on. I barely used half of my rifle's hop-up and I was shooting at 150 feet with about 380 FPS. And that isn't including the -12 foot cliff they apparently shoot on XD. <AT>Soldier - FPS does not mean range. Does it help? A bit. But the majority of range in airsoft comes from hop-up (otherwise it is just paintball). An extra 50 FPS won't even compete in range compared to a new bucking.
  23. 1. Nah, I cleaned the hop-up when unjamming it. That was one of the first things I checked when that happened. 2. If compression was that bad, I don't think any of the BBs would be going anywhere XD. 3. We're using Crosman .2g BBs... Of course they are going to be bad. However, it definitely isn't nearly the cause of that. EDIT: Could it be motor height problems? Maybe the gears aren't being caught all the way?
  24. I'm not really an expert on fingernail polish XD But wouldn't the nail-polish get all over the bucking? Not to mention dirty up the barrel quickly. I don't really know the physical properties of nail polish.
  25. I am horrible at guessing distances apparently. I was thinking "Wow! I can barely even hit a man-sized target at 100 feet!" I checked on Google Maps and realized I was actually firing 188 feet 100 feet shouldn't be too much of a problem. But my stock trigger broke, so I need to wait until tomorrow for my trigger and cylinder upgrades to get here.
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