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Everything posted by Neotyguy40

  1. Question is... TM L96 vs. Maruzen L96? I never used either.
  2. The JG BAR-10 is a great gun to use as an upgrade platform. The rubbery stock is something you will keep and feel comfortable with, and it is based off of the VSR-10, which is one of the most reliable rifles in airsoft. Out of the box it shoots about 400 FPS (though the box said 475 on mine, it turned out to be about 380), but by doing a few simple DIY mods, you can get it up to 450-475 very easily and shoot a good 150' with some quality BBs. Speaking of BBs, there are a few brands that make really good ones. I had the best experience with Bioshots with KSCs coming in a close second. I also heard Bioval is very good too. Goldenballs seem to perform just as well as KSCs for me, but I noticed the weight was off when I tested some .30g BBs, which was disappointing (it was closer to .28g). For upgrades, you would first seriously want to consider upgrading the trigger first before you upgrade anything in the cylinder. Get a V-trigger or Zero-trigger and then get a Polarstar or PDI piston (I never used Polarstar, but I heard they are fairly good). Once you have that, you can get a spring and guide for it to upgrade your FPS to where your fields allow you to. Then once that is done you should look at accuracy upgrades by getting a new barrel and a PDI hop-up chamber. That would get you shooting at around 250', and possibly higher if you're lucky...
  3. We're talking about sniper rifles, not upgrade platforms. UTG doesn't even compare to the original Maruzen L96. Not to mention if you compare a VSR-10 to a UTG L96 it would be no contest.
  4. TM VSR-10, no contest. Pretty much defined sniper rifles for the past couple years. It has dozens of clones, and the spring sniper rifles that aren't clones STILL use the same system (for example, the Maruzen L96 and its clones). It has the best accuracy out of the box for its price, dozens of upgrades (not to mention DIY ones), very reliable, and very comfortable to use. The stock itself is extremely nice. Sure, the FPS is low for a sniper rifle, but I don't think that matters considering how accurate it is. Not to mention it has one of the best hop-up systems ever made for ANY gun.
  5. I find it gives a much better airseal that the PolarStar or Laylax pistons, but I heard it doesn't last as long compared to the others due to using the O-ring design. However, I don't have any idea how long any of them last, and I would say that it wouldn't matter until you play 7-8 dozen intense matches or so. Even if the O-rings do break, they are barely 50¢ each to replace, and the piston itself probably won't even break. The problem is deciding whether to get a hard piston or vacuum piston. From what I've heard, the Vacuum piston increases accuracy if you have a long barrel, while hard pistons increase FPS slightly. If you are on the border of your FPS limit, I would get a vacuum piston to be safe, considering that even the minimal accuracy increase would be better than the slight FPS increase that could bring you over the top.
  6. Soon Bioshot will be the one snipers will prefer if this has to do with anything: Bioshot consistency in a .32g BB? Count me in once these come out! If they come out...
  7. Never said the V-trigger came with a piston. I said Zero-trigger comes with the piston. I was thinking of the VSR when I thought of Hop-up chamber, but I know that the L96 does not require a PDI cylinder head. It is strongly suggested you do get one though, because there is a slight measurement difference that the PDI head makes that creates a full air seal.
  8. Depends. The Zero trigger comes with a piston made by Laylax, which will not work with PDI springs or spring guides. If you use any PDI cylinder parts, you are going to want to use the V-trigger. Not saying the V-trigger is bad! It just requires you to adjust it to get the same "light pull" that the Zero-trigger has, and it gets pretty tedious to constantly adjust it, especially since if it is too light it will slam-fire. The Zero-trigger was designed for the piston it comes with, so it doesn't have that problem. PDI hop-up chamber comes with the cylinder head. No. Only if you get a Bore-up cylinder will you need a different receiver. You may need to remove the spacer ring inside your stock receiver (if it has one, I know it requires removal on VSR rifles), but other than that the cylinder will work.
  9. Best to upgrade: 1. Any VSR-10 clone. 2. Any L96 clone. Most people choose the BAR-10 as a VSR clone, and the UTG L96 as the L96 clone. Both of those two are the best to get as an upgrade platform.
  10. Madbull's first batch of barrels were teflon coated, and over time the teflon would wear away and the consistency would drop to below most stock barrels, making it a horrible barrel to use even after cleaning it. They were probably the worst barrels you could ever possibly buy, and I believe they still have some experimental barrels that use this style (I think they are called Black Python, but I'm not completely sure). Luckily though, they make their main line out of Anodized Titanium, so if you get one of those you will have a pretty good barrel. Granted, it is not comparable to PDI or EdGI in the least, but it is pretty good for the price. I still think you should save up for a PDI/EdGI, and if you can't afford it you should get a Prometheus.
  11. I think it is a good idea to tell the OP what actually matters in a BB (I.e. not the weight). <AT>OP: Technically, it does not matter what weight BB you use. All that matters is that you get high-quality brand BBs. Those lead to the best consistency, so your gun will be a lot more accurate. Brands such as Bioval, Bioshot, and KSC are very high quality BBs. They have the best consistency in shape, weight, and size you will find, which means that they will always land in the same spot each time you shoot. However, if you look at a Madbull BB, they have horrible consistency, so they will not land in the same spot each time you shoot. A Bioval .3g will always be more accurate than a Madbull .43g BB. Don't worry too much about weight, just find the best brand you can and get a high weighted BB. Generally once you reach the .3g point, weight makes a very small difference. While you may find a huge performance increase from .25g to .28g, you will find little difference between a .3g and .36g. I posted a thread in the BB section on calculations to find the best BB weight you should use. You should look at it: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Guide-BB...it-t211040.html
  12. I own the UTG one. I think this would be a good list: Pros: 1. Decent out of the box accuracy and FPS. 2. Is a full clone (can take all L96 upgrades). 3. Very easy to disassemble and reassemble. 4. Very easy to clean. 5. Stock is pretty comfortable considering it is plastic. Cons: 1. Hop-up issues. 2. Annoying to adjust the hop-up. 3. Hard to reassemble the hop-up after cleaning it. Seriously, I highly suggest you get a PDI hop-up system when you get it. I absolutely hate the hop-up system it uses. However, I sort of expanded the cons of it to emphasize the hop-up issue. It is still a very good rifle, and I highly recommend it over any other L96 replica.
  13. Judging by the bare metal and chinese, I would say it is almost certainly a WE rifle. And considering they are making a new line of GBBR guns, this could be part of it. I think that would be awesome. I personally hate SVDs (and practically all AK-style guns), but I think it is time for more GBBRs to come out.
  14. Everyone will tell you something different about how barrel length affects accuracy and range. Basically, the arguments say this: Longer Barrel = Better Accuracy: In real steel rifles, a longer barrel creates more accuracy due to more gas is being used to push the round forward, so it is probably true for airsoft. Longer Barrel = Worse Accuracy: Longer barrels make hop-up less effective due to the BB bouncing around in the barrel, cause the BB to be in the vibrating barrel longer, and longer barrels create 'suck-back' turbulation. There is no real concrete evidence for either of those two theories, so don't listen to anyone if they say longer is better or shorter is better. On some guns it is one way, on other guns it is the other, and there is no guarantee that your gun will match those. As for brands, this is probably the most decisive choice you will make when choosing a barrel. What makes a barrel good is not the length of it, nor it is the inner diameter (no matter what anyone says there is no concrete evidence saying 6.03 > 6.01 or vice versa). However, tolerances make a huge difference on the accuracy. The tighter the tolerance the less deformities there will be in a barrel. For example, PDI has the lowest tolerance at around ±0.002mm. That means that the barrel's diameter will end up being between (if you get a 6.01mm) 6.012-6.008, which is insanely good. Compare that to companies that make worse barrels, such as Madbull that have a tolerance of ±0.007 (or so I am seeing from tests that other people made) which can go from 6.003 to 6.017. Generally, the top barrel manufacturer is PDI, followed by EdGI. Now PDI may have the most accurate barrels, but EdGI can create custom ordered barrels that you can get at a specified length, carving, and even a thicker outer diameter. Basically, if you have the money, get a PDI barrel. Specifically a 10mm OD barrel (reduces vibrations a LOT). If PDI does not make the correct sized barrel you want, get an EdGI. And if you want to keep it cheap then get a Prometheus or Madbull.
  15. I think I can answer most of your questions that were asked (and maybe some that weren't): You already have the right idea of what to look for in a Sniper Rifle. You want to find a good platform, and not a "out of the box" rifle. You already have your eyes on the UTG L96, which is by far one of the best platform rifles you could possibly get. It's a direct clone of the TM MK96, and it can take all of its popular upgrades (so there is no shortage of upgrades you could get). Another popular platform is the BAR-10, which is a clone of the VSR-10, the rifle that practically defined all airsoft spring rifles from that point onwards. These two rifles probably form the majority of the snipers you will find on these (and many other) forums. These guns have both been proven to be very effective when upgraded, and it is very possible to get 250-300' shots once you finish upgrading them. Basically, if you want an L96, get the UTG rifle. It is fairly impressive out of the box, but it truly shines when you start upgrading it.
  16. The testing that you linked us to was not a good comparison at all. First off, there is only a 1cm difference at 20 feet. That is barely anything! He also only took 10 shots as a test... That is the worst testing comparison I've ever seen. Whoever that guy was certainly did not know how to create a good comparison between internals. What he should have done was do about 50 shots per barrel, but tested each one 3-4 times. When you disassemble a gun and put it back together, something is very likely to be different. I would really not listen to a comparison like that. Either way, FPS is something you really want in an AEP. Especially if it doesn't harm the internals. A powerful spring puts stress on the gearbox, but a tightbore barrel does not stress out any of the parts. In fact, with the upgrades you are doing I would not be surprised if you could get that thing up to 350 FPS. That would be impressive for an AEP.
  17. I agree with what this guy is saying, but I'd like to be more specific: If you can, get the 10mm OD barrel. It comes in 6.01 and 6.05 varieties. It may not seem like it, but with an electric gun it helps a LOT with the vibration. You will need some new barrel spacers designed for the 10mm OD, but it is worth it. Get about 4 barrel spacers. I am not that experienced with springs, so I would never suggest which one to get. However, for ammo I would suggest using .30g Bioshots, Biovals, or KSC BBs. Those are probably the most consistent you will be able to use.
  18. Ignore SniperNinja, he doesn't know what he's talking about. The UTG L96 is probably one of the top sniping platforms you could get. I've never really seen anything too horrible about the hop-up, but if you are worried about it, you could always buy a PDI hop-up chamber, which is better than any hop-up chamber you will find. If you don't want to buy the PDI chamber, you could always get a VSR clone. A BAR-10 (common VSR clone) has a better stock chamber than the L96, but of course if you plan on getting a PDI chamber for either of them it doesn't matter. You're telling me that a UTG gun that is a clone of a TM gun is actually made by WELL? I don't think you've used the UTG L96 before. I think you used the WELL L96 AWP rifle. The UTG rifle is definitely not made by WELL.
  19. If you want to get an upgraded spring, you are going to need to upgrade all of your internals with better parts. Sears, a piston, and spring guide should suffice to keep your gun from breaking under the higher stress. I'm not sure what gun that is a clone of, so I don't know what specific springs would work for it, but I'm sure you would fine something if you did a search for one. You should also check your local store and see if they have one you could use.
  20. Ohh, wow... That looks bad. I didn't even think a spring would be able to do that to such a thick piece of metal. Not to mention the amount of force an arm would need to exert to rip it off.
  21. You can get a 6.01 PDI tightbore for about $35, which will improve not only FPS, but accuracy by a pretty big margin. I would guess a good 15 FPS increase, which is good. Here is a good spring I would get: Nineball Power Spring - Increases FPS by about 20-30. It will decrease your battery life though, so I would also highly suggest getting a LiPo mod for that gun. That should increase your battery life by a lot longer. Combine that along with this tightbore: 6.01 PDI Tightbore - Increases FPS by another 10-30, not to mention accuracy by a lot too. If you get that bucking you showed in your post, your range will increase by a large amount, so I think you will be happy with that.
  22. How will you fit a hop-up design in there? A hop-up on a rifle requires a very level surface, otherwise it will curve left and right VERY easily. If you don't have a hop-up, it won't go more than 50 feet if you're lucky...
  23. Would an SPR 250% spring do that? I wouldn't think it would be that strong, but if it breaks I guess I would just put some loctite on the inner part of the screw... Doesn't seem like it's worth that much money.
  24. I currently have a BAR-10, and the sears just broke (surprised it lasted so long actually, expected it to happen months ago). After the third slam-fire, the piston actually broke too (not very good luck, but my fault for still slam-firing it I guess). I plan on buying a PDI v-trigger, vacuum piston, spring guide, and an SPR 250% spring. I was looking to see if I could get it in a package, and I notice that there were a bunch of precision and palsonite cylinders. Considering my stock cylinder is fine, and I don't see how it could break, I was actually questioning the reasoning for getting an upgraded cylinder. It's over $100 for some of the higher end ones, and I've never actually heard of what it does differently. What would the difference be, and would I be able to use those other upgrades without it? It doesn't seem worth $150 to me, but I wasn't sure how important upgrading that would be... Thanks in advance!
  25. Look, there is not going to ever be a good stock sniper rifle. What you look for should not be an actual gun, but rather a platform to upgrade. If you don't plan on upgrading it, then don't bother getting one, or you will be sorely disappointed. If you are looking at a good platform, a BAR-10 is a great rifle to choose. The stock is really comfortable, the receiver is very sturdy, and the outer barrel is very light.
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