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Everything posted by Neotyguy40

  1. Ahaha... The only thing you're missing is 300 foot accuracy on that perfect list of yours =P. Sorry to say this, but if you plan on getting an electric sniper rifle, you're going to need to raise your price range by a few hundred dollars. The only 'good' electric airsoft sniper rifle is the RealSword SVD. All others will be low range, or low accuracy. Sniper rifles are much more dangerous than normal rifles due to their high power. There are certain rules that he needs to know, and I can almost guarantee that most fields would not let a 13 year old go into a game with a sniper rifle. If your son seriously wants a sniper rifle, he should learn to use a bolt action first. I'm not talking about a simple "springer" rifle or "pump" shotgun. I mean a genuine bolt-action sniper rifle such as a UTG L96 or BAR-10. If your son wants a semi-automatic sniper rifle that cheaply, then just buy him an M14 and attach a scope onto it. It won't be nearly as accurate or have as much range as a bolt action or RealSword, but he would probably get bored very easily of a sniper rifle.
  2. From what I know, if you are getting a clone, the best options for those two rifles are the JG BAR-10 and the UTG L96. However, there are some points to be made here: 1. Out of the box, the L96 is a little bit better than the stock JG BAR-10. 2. The VSR-10 series has a better hop-up system. However, if you plan on getting a PDI hop-up chamber in the L96 it does not matter. 3. When both are fully upgraded, they will both perform the same. 4. The VSR is cheaper to buy stock (I am not sure about upgrade cost differences). Generally, the VSR-10 is more "supported" by companies, but this isn't saying much considering the top companies that support the VSR-10 also support the L96. Personally, I don't think it matters all that much except for your personal opinion. However, I've also seen a lot more DIY mods on the VSR, but most of those mods could probably be brought over to the L96 (they share very similar systems). Go to your local airsoft store and see if they have any in stock you could hold. Only then will you be able to decide for yourself.
  3. You... lubed your bucking? Why the heck would you do something like that? I would clean that bucking out as much as possible and let it dry without any lubricant...
  4. The two best things to get would be a new tightbore barrel and a lipo battery. You want a really tight barrel, because that will boost your FPS up (AEPs lag a bit) without putting stress on the gearbox, not to mention your range and accuracy. AEPs are also notorious for horrible stock battery life. Unless you get a lipo, you won't be shooting more than a few hundred each charge. Other than that, the only other real options on-market that I could think of would be a bucking and spring. Buckings aren't really that available, and springs stress the small gearbox of AEPs very easily. You are really going to probably want to modify your gun instead of only upgrading with market parts. If you could reinforce the gears better, you could put a better spring in there. Not to mention how far a little bit of teflon and grease will get you.
  5. 85 lumens? That's it? I got The Torch. 4100 lumens of blinding light. I am seriously going to see how well it works attached to my gun...
  6. They have the exact same barrel, gearbox, hop-up, battery, spring, and anything else that matters. Difference is aesthetic only, they are both just as accurate, fast, range, and powerful. You will notice NO difference between firing them side-by-side. HOWEVER! Many more people use the CM030, so you will find a lot more modification support if you ever choose to do that. The CM122 is most likely the best choice if you like to do your own modding without any guidance, since there is more room in the pistol itself. I personally have the CM030, but that is ONLY because I like the nice rectangular shape of glock pistols.
  7. Chances are it is not the barrel. It definitely does not sound like it. Do not put your hop-up all the way up in either direction. That makes it a LOT more sensitive to tilting. With the hop-up on all the way, you will experience extreme amounts of curving with even 1 degree of tilt. Lower your hop-up all the way and adjust them about 1/8 both ways evenly. Then to 1/4 if it is too low, then 3/8 and so on. If you are still getting this problem, try using your stock barrel and see if that's the problem.
  8. PDI Chamber allows for left-right adjustment You may have it too far to the right, you should adjust it. If that doesn't work, it is most likely you tilting the barrel. Try not to tilt the barrel at all, it does unbelievable things to your accuracy.
  9. Cut off the airbrake, teflon mods, thorough cleaning and lubrication, shimming the hop-up chamber, the list goes on and on. Search around the forum, you will be able to find plenty of mods that require very little material. You can even think of your own DIY mods...
  10. If you are looking for a gun with the best literal OTB experience, get the UTG L96. However, if you are willing to do a few DIY mods, get the JG BAR-10. And if you are planning on heavily upgrading your gun (like you SHOULD if you even hope to get into sniping), then it doesn't really matter. However, I would still recommend the BAR-10 in this case just because I believe it's cheaper to upgrade. However, it is difficult to vouch any major differences between these guns if you upgrade it. At that point it just depends on the upgrades you put in.
  11. Currently, I've been looking into this, however I've always been skeptical of these kind of barrels. Not to mention that the PDI 6.05 inner barrel is only $5 more. I would prefer to get one of those. However, I was told never to trust a company solely on their word that their more expensive product is better than their cheaper product. I still want a comparison between a normal PDI and a Raven before I think about going to the Raven.
  12. If that's the case, I found out how to make it work: Airspring...
  13. So is the compressor electric? If so, then it isn't really much different than an AEG sniper we have today, except it would be louder even with the extra consistency. However, I always thought that using the force of the bolt being pulled back and forward could generate enough pressure inside a chamber to propel the BB. No need to buy gas, no electricity, silent, and no vibrations.
  14. You shouldn't buy any 'AirsoftGI' guns. They are usually overpriced and mediocre at best, and if you are going to be upgrading everything in the gun anyways, the quality of the inner parts won't matter. Generally, it should shoot better than a BAR-10, but not worth the price if you ask me. Hell, $50 was probably just the price of that stupid rail. I've never actually used one, but I will tell you if you are going for a gun in that value range? Get a VSR-10. If you are going for a clone? Get a BAR-10 and use the extra money for a new barrel, hop-up chamber, and bucking. That will get you even more accurate than that gun only dropping down $200-$300.
  15. This is probably the last thing preventing me from getting a gas gun (can't stand the look of gas guns with HPA rigs). I would love to get one just for the purpose of this kind of project. Would probably require modification to the magazine if you are looking for more capacity, and there would probably have to be a lot of inner work, but I don't see why not. Just plan it out carefully.
  16. A newbie did research? What the f- HALLELUJAH!!!! Anyways, I want to just point out a few corrections about your idea of the game: No, it is not like an FPS at all. For example, in an FPS you can run out and attack everyone in sight and kill everyone. In airsoft, you will be shot if you try to do that, and you won't instantly respawn. Not to mention movement counts a lot more in airsoft, camo is more important, and weapons will be a lot more powerful or weaker. Cheaters are also going to be a lot more common in airsoft than online. People won't call their hits a lot of the time, especially the arrogant ones. Remember, just because both have guns and shooting, doesn't mean they are the same or even remotely similar. Many people will laugh at you for thinking of the two the same. This is not to demotivate you from playing though. Or if it jams, or battery fails, and ESPECIALLY if they are within your MED. BBs are not all about weight or price. It is about quality, and a gun is usually limited by the quality BBs you put in there. I personally never had a good experience with Echo 1 BBs, so I suggest getting GoldenBalls, KSCs, Biovals, or Bioshots. Let me just explain what each one would do: 1. Spring - Would increase your FPS, which would give you the ability to use heavy weighted BBs for more accuracy, and will generally increase your range (not by much). However, if you go over your field's limit, you will not be allowed to play. Don't be a Newbie who thinks FPS actually means anything. FPS should be the last thing you think of upgrading if at all. Springs measured in M# mean "Meters per second". An M120 spring will get you about 393 FPS, which almost reaches the maximum velocity of most fields (400 FPS with .2g BBs). If you get a tightbore and other good upgrades, that will also increase your FPS too. Don't go over 400 unless your field says you may. 2. Tightbore Barrel - Tightbores increase accuracy at lower velocities, weaken the hop-up (generally less vertically straight BB), but makes up for it with a higher FPS (usually a 10-30 increase). It is one of the best upgrades you could get, and generally it is the base upgrade you should form your other upgrades to. However, a tightbore needs better maintenance and high quality BBs. If the barrel isn't extremely clean, and if you are using poor quality BBs, then you will jam your gun quickly. 3. Hop-up - Generally, you should divide the hop-up into two parts: The bucking and the chamber. The chamber puts pressure on a tiny piece of rubber called a bucking, which has a nub that puts pressure on the top of the BB. This pressure puts friction on the top of the BB and gives it backspin, which allows it to rise and go straight, even at low velocities. You usually want a fully metal, and simple designed hop-up chamber, but there are many choices of the type of bucking you should get. 4. Battery - Be careful with your battery upgrades. It is highly suggested you go with a Li-po battery (which I assume you were planning on), but you should pay special attention to your energy output. The higher voltage battery you have, the higher your rate of fire will be, which could be a good thing or a bad thing. Usually the gears and motor will be worn out due to a powerful battery, so they usually degrade the life expectancy of your gun. However, if you want higher rates of fire, get an 11.1v battery. 5. Gearbox - Generally, most people don't upgrade their gearbox if it is already full metal. If it isn't I highly suggest you get a completely full metal one. However, gearboxes are generally all the same (usually v2 or v3 types) in shape. You can do some small DIY mods on your gearbox to increase your rate of fire, but that degrades the gun like I said before. As long as you keep your gearbox properly lubricated and clean, you should have no need to upgrade. 6. Motor - I never upgrade the motor in my AEG or AEP before, so I can't discuss this in detail. However, I know more expensive motors are generally quieter, so that can be an advantage if you are trying to be silent. Generally, more expensive guns are better quality, however you will get owned by a kid with a springer if you can't play. I know it may seem obvious, but I need to emphasize that the amount of money you put in your gun will improve your game only slightly. I won't really speak out for a specific company in mind, but if you get a $200-300 gun you will be all set for your first event, even without upgrades. Play a little before the event. Scope in your gun, learn how to use it well, and generally just make sure you know how to move around your terrain easily and effectively. Even playing hide-and-seek with your friends in the woods will generally be one of the best training exercises you could do.
  17. Just going to say this now; the barrels in the VSR are considered 'AEG Barrels', and the PDI chamber comes with an AEG bucking, so no need to go out of your way to get one, especially since it is such a good bucking compared to other AEGs. I say get the PDI chamber. It's more consistent than the TM precision and Laylax. Not to mention you can adjust it in two separate directions.
  18. We've all made this mistake. I made it when I was looking at the PDI chamber. It only took me a few hours to figure out, but I DID make this mistake before. Most of these Japanese companies don't have very good english, so they easily give out the fewest and (most of the time) inconsistent details that they can. When someone says "AEG", you shouldn't think of it as an "Automatic electric gun". Not only are many "AEGs" only semi-auto (SAEG?), but AEG could mean the type of hop-up cut, barrel, cylinder head, spring, etc. even when they aren't strictly for AEGs. For example, the A&K SVD using an "AEG spring", yet it is a bolt action rifle.
  19. I got a Madbull barrel once. I have to say I was completely angry at them afterwards and from there on out I never bought anything from Madbull again. When I got it, it was pretty good. Beyond my expectations when I ordered it. However, it soon got bad. After a couple thousand rounds it started getting less accurate. Not as inaccurate as my stock barrel, but I wasn't hitting my 150' target anymore. I cleaned it a few times, and then I was able to hit it again (just barely). After another couple hundred rounds, it got worse again. I cleaned it again, but it still wouldn't hit my 150' target (take note I was able to hit it, but not every shot like I use to), I could only hit the 125' shot every time I pulled the trigger. Eventually, my effective range leveled out at just below 125'. This was after about 4-5 months of use (semi-automatic M14). I eventually had to switch back to my stock barrel, and when I looked inside the Madbull barrel I saw the teflon coating was almost completely scratched away. This was, of course, the version 1 barrel (I was told they fixed the problem), however I still wouldn't buy it. I can't vouch for Matrix though.
  20. I personally like the look of the M4, but I do agree it is overpopulated. However, I think the AKs are worse. I never liked the look of post WWII russian weapons, and 3 out of 5 people on my team have them. One has an M4 (I think it's an M16 actually), and another has a SCAR (or G36c, I forget and he only used it once). My new sig thanks... Dangit, Turtle already has it as a sig...
  21. The stock of my friend's AK-47 fell off, so he hacksawed a cocking gun, painted it black, wrapped a ton of fishing line around the opening, and using the fishing line as support he ductaped it and hot-glued it on. I have to say, it is probably more comfortable than the stock that it came with. It doesn't even look bad either, considering he melted some of the showing edges of the tape to fuse it all together.
  22. Just got 3 bags. 1 bag of .30 for my bolt-action rifle, and 2 bags of .20 for my CM030 AEP. No issues with my bolt-action, but my AEP curved upwards a little more than my KSC .20 BBs, I had to lower the hop-up, which is no big deal (but DANG they're accurate).
  23. Neither he, or you should be playing airsoft then. Get out. Now.
  24. If you are trying to clean your gun, using 100% Silicone Oil. No exceptions EVER. If it says anything other than "Silicone Oil" on the ingredients list, then it WILL eat away your gun. However, if you are lubing your gun, I would suggest staying away from the Silicone Oil due to it not working as effectively as other lubricants. I've been using dielectric grease for almost 3 months now. It makes pulling the bolt easier, and it gave me better consistency (it is thick, so it is airtight).
  25. What are they? Do they break easily?
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