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Everything posted by Neotyguy40

  1. I'll tell you this now, do not mess with the position of the spring guide. The spring guide does not move at all when you pull the cylinder back. The position stays in the same place as reference to the gun. Even if you add that spring to the back, the spring guide will have to hook onto the same place when you pull it back. I'm not even completely sure if you would be able to push it forward again afterwards, especially if the piston and spring guide end up touching. The result would be a harder return and minimal FPS gain (if any at all. Possible you may actually lose some). If you do get any FPS gain it will only be about 10 at max. The idea though, is not new for creating more tension. However, there is a much better way than what you suggested to get a higher FPS. It's called a Thrust Ring, which goes on your spring guide to the back, pushing the spring forward a little without moving the spring guide at all. The pictures on this site will help you understand: http://www.x-fire.org/aps2/e.re_thrustring_9mm.html If you don't want to get a new spring, then that is what I suggest to you. I would suggest staying away from your original idea though. Especially even if it worked, the extra spring would create even less consistency with FPS. Therefore, less accurate.
  2. Now hold on just a second, an LPEG gun is really fun to mess around and play with. The extra parts, the stock, and everything in them just scream out "see how good you can make me shoot!". A challenge you shouldn't ignore. My friend got a $50 LPEG, spent less than $20 to mess around and upgrade it. That thing could hit a human sized target at 100' with ease. True, the plastic body was horrible, but for 4-6 player skirmishes, if you know what you are doing? You can get some decent power out of it.
  3. You my friend, are made out of 28% awesome, 16% skill, 42% pwnage, and 24% cool. That adds up to 110% of pure win.
  4. AEPs are definitely good, but they aren't very popular due to people always going "ZOMG 450 FPS Desert Eagle LULZ!" If you aren't worried about the FPS, then an AEP is a great choice to go with. My CM030 shoots 290 FPS, but I've been told I was very lucky it was that powerful stock. Not to mention that was with a fully charged battery. Dealing with batteries is a lot cheaper and easier than dealing with gas, that's for sure, however the AEP has a maximum range of about 100'. They are fairly accurate, I can get an effective range of about 75', but that is definitely not comparably to the expensive high end 400+ FPS gas guns that can hit someone at 125'. One of the good things about AEPs is that they are upgradable. If you put in a lipo battery, 6.01 tightbore, and a stronger spring, I've seen people get 350 FPS and get people at 100'. This does however reduce the RoF (which on the other hand is very high to begin with for a pistol). If you don't mind the loss of FPS, then go for an AEP.
  5. I don't blame you. I blame Japanese marketing...
  6. Sorry for going off-topic, but why do people call manufacturing defected guns "lemons"? Is there any specific reason?
  7. I wonder if you can ultra sonically clean BBs or barrels...
  8. I was talking to a friend through PMs today, and when he was telling me what he did to upgrade accuracy, for some reason I got an insane idea. Many people teflon their cylinder heads to get better air compression. Right? Though this teflon jams the gun easily, must be replaced each time you use it, and doesn't provide as much compression as it could. So how about using heatshrink as a replacement? Here is my idea, sorry about the quality. I sketched it up quickly on my iPad, so I couldn't get the lines straight easily: This would solve the jamming issue, it has no need to be replaced, and provides a 'theoretically' perfect airseal at that part of the gun. I could also see this being used right after the bucking to provide an airseal there too. What do you guys think?
  9. Lower your FPS expectations. 450-500 FPS with .43g BBs will set you between 4 and 5 Joules (almost exactly between). That would put you between 650-735 FPS! Most fields allow only at around 550 FPS. Unless you don't plan on using this for playing, I would lower your expectations to around 3 Joules AT MOST. Calculating air drag would mean a .43 BB will be going an average of 227 FPS at 5 Joules by the time it goes 100 meters (about 300 feet). At 3 Joules the BB will be travelling an average of 176 FPS. That's only 50 FPS of a difference, not that much considering hop-up even lowers that gap more. The difference would be literally less than 1/6 of a second travel time. Either way however, I would suggest getting a VSR-10 or clone, preferably the BAR-10. They are notorious for their upgrade ability and the distances and accuracy they can achieve. Another good solution would be the MK96 gun or clone. They are usually better out of the box, and even though they may not have as many aftermarket parts as the VSR, all the good quality companies make their stuff for them too. Like PDI and EdGI. In the end, the difference would be the stock. However, the BAR-10 stock is probably the nicest rubber you could ever feel. It just screams itself out and leaves all other guns' stocks in the dust. Not to mention it's cheap for $100. Normally a stock as good as that by itself costs twice that amount. I just point this out because it is probably one of the only things you won't replace (and won't want to replace XD).
  10. Technically, that's only half-true. An 'AEG' will never have the accuracy of a BASR. However, remember that AEG stands for AUTOMATIC electric gun. The RS SVD is a SEMI-automatic electric gun, and even though it is called an AEG, it should not be considered an "AEG" in the practical sense. The only thing an RS SVD does that a VSR-10/MK96 doesn't do, would be use an electric motor to pull back the piston. Afterwards, the same steps occur in the rifle that goes in a BASR. I guess 'theoretically' the RS SVD won't be as accurate as a BASR because of the vibrations from the motor, and it definitely won't be as quiet, but realistically it is a really good gun. I tried convincing my friend to get it instead of the A&K version, but he doesn't know much about good guns. If you want an electric sniper, then go RS SVD. If you want a gas than go Tanaka. If you want a BASR then get a VSR-10/Clone. If you want a BASR, but without the R700 look, then get an MK96/Clone.
  11. Is your gun rotated at all? If it is, then try shooting it perfectly level. Also, it could be your scope is off or your nub is damaged. Take a look in the bucking and see if there is any noticeable damage.
  12. You guys say they work on semi, right? If so, I think I'll try them with my BASR.
  13. It HAS to be 100% silicon spray. Not 99%, not 101%, 100%. What is this, a holy hand grenade? Remember to CHECK THE INGREDIENTS! If it lists ANYTHING other than "Silicone Oil", then it will KILL your gun. No exceptions to it.
  14. Make sure it is 100% PURE silicon spray. Look at the ingredients, and if it says anything else then make sure it isn't a hydrocarbon, otherwise it will ruin your plastic. I once got 'Pure' silicon spray and it was only 20-30% silicon.
  15. 100% silicon spray for cleaning Dielectric grease for lubricating your cylinder. If you use an AEG, then use White Lithium grease for the gearbox instead.
  16. Last time I remember, you were against when I said they were v1. I don't want to try any of their newer barrels because I do have experience with them. Sure, it was my friend's gun, but he got it last August, and he is running into the same problems I did. Maybe you're just the one 'refusing to even try EdGI or PDI'. Now let me just state again that I am sharing my experience with these barrels. I've also had experience with their springs and BBs. Nothing that I used from that company worked well, and that is my opinion. Don't stifle it publicly (you don't see me trying to say you're misleading people). If you disagree with my opinion so much, then you can either make a debating thread, PM me, or some other way that doesn't include a "You're opinion differs from mine, therefore it's wrong" type of approach. Other than a madbull barrel, what else did you do to get it up to par with a $1k rifle? What kind of groupings do you get? Here is a more indepth guide on that sort of thing: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Guide-BB...it-t211040.html
  17. Guys, the concept of the 3 hop-up idea was already made. It is actually a 2 arm system that allows you to put pressure on the left and right side of the bucking nub, which gives it the spin it needs to turn. You know, the L96 and VSR-10 hop-up chambers. No need to create 3 nubs and 3 hop-up arms when you can get the same effect with 2 arms and 1 nub. Granted, it wouldn't be exactly horizontal considering the nub is still on top, but the effects are still there, and it works.
  18. We've had different experiences with Madbull barrels. I'm posting my opinion, you don't have to get angry each time I do that. <AT>OP: A hop-up is one of the most important thing to consider for accuracy. You should definitely consider getting a good one like a TM precision or PDI. That could possibly be why you have curving problems. Consistent hop-ups are key now. How about .32g? Look at the third comment: http://www.facebook.com/pages/BioShot/145240815525087
  19. Technically, BB weight has nothing to do with accuracy until wind comes into the equation. Accuracy comes from consistency of the BB, so if you have a very good quality .12g BB (doubt it), and a poor quality .4g BB (such as madbull), then you would actually see better accuracy from the .12g if you were in a windless environment. Reasons: 1. You got a Madbull barrel. 2. You didn't upgrade your Hop-up yet 3. You are using poor quality BBs 4. You have a poor airseal. Tips: 1. Get a different barrel (unless you are completely happy with it) 2. Get a PDI Hop-up 3. Get some Bioshots 4. Teflon your system up.
  20. He meant mm^3. As in cubic millimeters. <AT>OP: I would suggest finding out what kind of hop-up system your gun uses and try to create your own. It isn't hard to create a hop-up system, just requires some planning. The less moving parts, the more consistent it is. Many companies make hop-ups with a lot of moving parts because it either saves money or it makes it easier to adjust.
  21. Fanboyism - Refusal to believe a company can have a single error in a product you have.
  22. I second that. There are just some things that you should do to improve your gun.
  23. Slightly-off-topic: I was reading their facebook page, and look what I found: http://www.facebook.com/pages/BioShot/145240815525087 Apparently, Bioshot is developing .32g BBs! Hallelujah!
  24. I wouldn't be so sure that a longer barrel uses more compression. That may be true in real-steel ballistics, but a BB is bouncing in a barrel, which could lower FPS if it is too long. If you want a higher FPS, go with a 6.01. And also, I am not saying to skip buying the barrel. ANY barrel that you get would be better than a stock barrel. That's basically a law for every stock gun out there (with exceptions of TM who rank high on the barrel charts). However, don't think that it will increase accuracy or distance. The ammo that you are using should also be a lot higher. I wouldn't settle for anything under .3g BBs, and you should only get the very high quality ones like Bioval or Bioshot. BB weight means nothing if the BBs aren't consistent, and quality ammo is just as noticeable as a higher quality barrel. Not to mention that longer barrels do decrease the hop-up strength, and everyone knows that a good hop-up gets you more range than an extra 100 FPS. If you are trying to raise your FPS without upgrading your spring, then remember to watch for airleaks. Those will lower your FPS by sometimes around 30-50 per shot. Remember to keep plenty of teflon tape, and even if you aren't sure if air is leaking out at a certain point, tape it anyways! Also see if you can make some ABB rings for your hop-up. Cut off your airbrake if you have one, and then you will see some improvement. The piston will help you out a lot. If possible, see if you can get the piston made out of steel. It's a lot better than aluminum.
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