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Neotyguy40

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Everything posted by Neotyguy40

  1. Some companies just don't get it. Do they?
  2. I got one of their Remington shotgun models when I first started playing. I have to say it is pretty accurate for a $55 rifle. I could hit a man-sized target almost 100 feet away. That was almost 2 and a half years ago though XD.
  3. The idea that a barrel should have the same volume as a cylinder was just me being an idiot. I don't really know what causes the vacuum, but from what I am thinking is that if the barrel volume is equal to the cylinder volume, you will actually get a larger vacuum, which would slow the BB down a lot and add much unneeded turbulence. Although, let's just say for the sake of argument that there was no vacuum. Your hop-up would still be underpowered and there would be a lot more bouncing in the barrel. The stock barrel that comes with the dragonuv is long enough, even for a sniper rifle. I would get an EdGI or other high-ranking barrel with better tolerances at the same length. If you go too long, you would need to get a barrel extension, which would make your gun bigger, heavier, and possible very ugly if you don't know what you're doing with machinery. Not to mention the difficulty of installing a barrel almost 20% longer than the stock, and the price would be very high compared to shorter barrels. What would be the point of doing that?
  4. Well I must be thinking of the wrong idea of cylinder-barrel volume ratios. Though that would be theoretically correct, I know that it isn't really correct (otherwise, why do any snipers get negative pressure?). I must think this through more, but I do have a thread you may want to look at: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Barrel-L...Af-t152887.html Just some things I found when I was researching barrel lengths. You may want to read the thread throughput and see what it says.
  5. I think the point of the video was more along the lines of the video quality, not the shooting quality. But you aren't wrong XD.
  6. Your barrel volume is about 16850mm^3 Your cylinder is about 34211mm^3 Now you can use that to calculate what your PSI should be, and compare that to the PSI you are getting.
  7. I'm not a very pneumatically person, so I can't really tell. However, measuring the cylinder is easy. Just find the diameter and the depth with the ruler. Make sure it's the depth of the end of the cylinder to where the piston locks into place (as if you cocked it).
  8. That was... 15 meters. Only 50 feet at most. I know the A&K SVD isn't accurate, but not even my friend's rifle was that bad. Were you using .12 BBs or something? XD Accuracy issues aside, it was a very well-made movie. The editing was very smooth and you knew how to get good shots in view.
  9. I'm not completely sure how vacuum pistons work, but I do know they cancel out negative pressure, which would lower the turbulence on the BB. But I am planning on ordering one for my BAR-10 soon, so I may be able to help you out with that. And I said 430mm, not 490. A ported barrel is a barrel that has some holes near the nozzle that allow the air to dissipate. This allows the barrel to stay just as long, but removing some turbulence and silences it a little bit. However, there hasn't been any actual comparison between a ported and non-ported barrel yet, and as far as I know only EdGI makes them. However, EdGI is one of the best manufacturers of inner barrels, so I strongly recommend and trust him. I would stick to the length that your original barrel is. There isn't any reason for making it longer at this point, and it would just cause more trouble in the long-run. Not to mention that they're more expensive and you are facing a serious possibility of losing precision already. I would suggest getting an EdGI custom barrel with these stats: - 540mm long - Standard AEG hop-up - 6.03 Inner diameter - Ported For the outer diameter, measure your current outer-diameter and use that. However, if possible try to see if you can get an OD profile of 9.70mm. However, make sure that the 9.70 thickness starts AFTER the hop-up chamber and BEFORE whatever your gun uses to keep the end into place. This will drastically reduce vibrations and give you more precision. EDIT: You don't really hear about them alot, but from the little that you do hear about them they are really good. I am completely sure they don't make as good of barrels as PDI or EdGI, but they aren't bad. However, like I said above I highly recommend you do NOT get a longer barrel than you do now. It's not worth the risk. PS. I'm going to see if I can create a resource out of this and make a guide on barrel lengths. I think I have an idea of what to do. You want to get the volume of the cylinder to approximate to the volume of the barrel. A 6.03 ID barrel at 590mm long will create a volume of 16850mm^3 I don't have access to a SVD at the moment, can you measure your cylinder?
  10. We ALL have bigger cylinders than an AEG. From what I can tell from the SVD I have here (my friend let me borrow it, it's A&K), the cylinder is a little bigger than my BAR-10 cylinder from first looks. However, when I pull the cylinder back I can tell that it definitely isn't getting pulled back as far as normal snipers. It actually seems like it is getting pulled back as far as my M14 AEG (which it possibly is considering the SVD uses an AEG spring). I would say that the SVD is pulling in slightly less air than a VSR rifle (which uses a 430mm barrel). I think it would benefit a lot from a vacuum piston. However, I don't think anyone has made one before for that SVD. That might be a good project you could try to make. I'm certain it will improve your accuracy.
  11. Just adding to what you said: If you really don't want to upgrade your Super 9, but would rather get a different gun to start out with, then it isn't all about getting the cheapest gun possible. For example, a good comfortable stock can cost upwards of $300, but if you bought a gun that already comes with a good stock (for example, the BAR-10), then that would also save a lot of money. You want to try and get a gun with quality parts that you won't replace. Magazine catch, outer-barrel, stock, receiver, bolt handle, etc. are all pieces that don't necessarily improve accuracy or range, but are good to have quality versions of them. But yes, he is definitely right about the ammo. Get some biovals or bioshots. The general consensus seems to be that they have the best quality compared to other BBs like Madbull. I personally never tried them, so don't take my word on it, but everyone who has used them are happy.
  12. Bad OTB experience and is a PITA until you upgrade the cylinder. My buddy wanted to get the same gun as I did, but he bought the TSD version. Never have I seen so many slam-fires and stuck springs in a single gun before. Not to mention the magazine kept getting stuck and the stock isn't very comfortable. However, the scope is a mil-dot, the outer-barrel has nothing wrong with it and it is a full VSR-10 clone. If you are looking for a VSR-10 clone and you can't afford the BAR-10, I would say buy it.
  13. There was one guy who took his sniper spring and shortened it to fit into his AEP. However, I'm not completely sure how many aftermarket springs there are for us AEP users. I do know Nineball makes one for the TM G18c, and I know PDI makes one for the Scorpion. Other than that though, you will probably need to make your own spring from a larger one. I don't think you will find it difficult to do though. Cutting and forming a spring is easy.
  14. Well my first airsoft gun was a "Semi-auto pump action shotgun" from Crossman...
  15. Yea, that would cancel the negative pressure from a long barrel. However, the OP is using an A&K SVD, so he doesn't have the option of a vacuum piston.
  16. I'll see what kind of experimentation I could do. I mean, it would probably only require $5 worth of it (and a few O-rings), which would be a lot cheaper than a set of barrel spacers.
  17. Okay, that's good. I was planning on getting the palsonite cylinder set anyways.
  18. But I think (correct me if I'm wrong), that would mean more negative pressure too. Right? That will put more turbulence on your BB and create less accuracy. Unless you get a ported EdGI barrel and somehow create some sort of vacuum piston for your SVD... Then I think you should stick with the length they give you. It's not like you will be lacking in FPS in the first place...
  19. I'm sorry, I couldn't understand what you are trying to say. Do you need help on compression? If so, use some teflon tape and wrap it around where there are air-leaks...
  20. Now that we are 'finally' back on topic. There is something I would like to know: Has anyone ever used liquid urethane as a sort of barrel spacer? I thought of this idea a few months ago, yet I am not a real expert at using that stuff. I was thinking it would create a barrel-long full-fitting barrel spacer that can reduce vibrations a lot. Afterwards, just take it out and put some O-rings down the length of it. Would control vibrations a lot more. I am assuming it would also make an impact on sound too?
  21. I am about to put an order in for one of the new PDI hop-up units: http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/e.vsr_chamber.html However, on the page it says: "!!NOTICE!! These items are necessary to use this chamber. -PDI Precision or RAVEN Cylinder." I am certainly not going to buy a Raven cylinder, but I was planning on buying a palsonite cylinder. However, it says that I need a PDI Precision cylinder, not a palsonite. Would a palsonite cylinder work with this? I would prefer getting that rather than the precision, because I heard that the palsonite is easier to pull back. What is required?
  22. I can't facepalm hard enough...
  23. It's a good thing you got a Classic Army gun, they are really good (never used one, but they are one of the top brands from what I hear). Generally, the only maintenance you will need for that gun would be the same basic things for all AEGs. Clean the barrel, wash the bucking, lubricate the gearbox, and lubricate the cylinder. 1. Cleaning the barrel: Coming from an old paintball player, I will tell you that cleaning an airsoft barrel is a lot more important than cleaning a paintball barrel. With paintball, I could go months without cleaning the barrel, and I only remember cleaning it if something got jammed (one time a paintball splattered all over the inside of my barrel). However, because the BBs in airsoft are a lot lighter than paintball markers, you will need to clean it a lot more. Otherwise you will notice a big difference. To clean the barrel, disassemble your gun and take out the inner barrel. Use some silicon spray (make sure it is PURE silicon, no other ingredients) on a cotton swab (paper towels generally work too, but not as effectively) and push it through the barrel using the cleaning rod. You will notice how much dirt comes out the other side. Continue doing that until the swabs come out clean. Then use some dry swabs to get rid of the excess silicon. 2. Washing the bucking: A bucking (hop-up bucking), is a small piece of rubber near the beginning of your inner barrel that puts friction on the BB, giving it backspin and allowing it to travel much straighter. It isn't difficult to wash a bucking, and generally you shouldn't have to very much. However, I wash it every time I clean my barrel, because it is convenient. Put some hot soapy water in a small cup and drop the bucking in. Let it sit in there for a good hour or so before you take it out. Let it airdry completely before putting it on your barrel again. 3. Lubricating the gearbox: This isn't really something that you have to do constantly. My friend does it only once every 6 months and it works fine, however, it depends on whether your gun is fully automatic, semi automatic, and how much you use it. Open your gearbox and clean out all the gunk that has built up in there (there will be a lot of it XD). After cleaning it, use some White Lithium grease to lubricate the gears and their axels. 4. Lubricate the cylinder: Pretty much do the same thing as the gearbox. Except, instead of using White Lithium grease, you probably want something that can create a better airseal. Many recommend dielectric grease, and I don't see a reason not to use it. However, when I had an AEG, I used the White Lithium grease too, just because I was too lazy to go out and buy some.
  24. I got this gun a little over a month ago and used it in 3 games so far. I have to say, I agree with every single thing you said about it. However, the bottom rail seems normal for me. I can mount my flashlight onto it without any need to adjust it at all. Unless you are talking about how there are no ledges on the rail, in which case you are correct.
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