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EFSFMatt last won the day on July 31 2015

EFSFMatt had the most liked content!

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About EFSFMatt

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 08/22/1988

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    Invoke Zero
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    Farmington, MN

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Matrix M4 Zombie Killer - Modded after Halo 2 SMG G36c Frankengun ICS Sig552 w/LBK ICS M16 w/SIR Long Rail System M4 Frankengun based on Dboys M4 P90RD w/TM Upper Echo1 MP5 Master Arms JG G3SG1 A&K SR-25 TM MP7 AEP DBoys Scar-L
  1. DreadCo, you really have got to stop storming through these forums spewing a bunch of opinionated half-truths and trying to pass them off as facts. The JG Blue is by far not the best motor you can buy in the market, stock or otherwise. There are several other motors from other companies that will offer better tolerances, lower power draw, lower running temperature, and higher performance. A JG Blue is a fantastic motor for the price, no doubt, but it is still just a 22TPA neo motor made in china with mediocre tolerances.
  2. Most fields only allow AEGs to fire 400fps or below, with the occasional field allowing for a 450fps cap for semi-only rifles. Even then, with an R-Hop, wouldn't you want to run something around the .32g mark anyway?
  3. Say what? Haven't heard any good feedback? There has been consistent feedback regarding both his gearbox build and choice of magazines, as well as recommendations for what to use instead. Taking a few coils from the tappet spring can certainly help, I'd also suggest shaving a few mm off of the tappet fin to speed up how fast it starts returning to the seated position. I'd only take a few mm off first, obviously taking too much will not give your BBs time to feed. He doesn't need a stronger spring and to short stroke if he's already using something like an M120, he just needs to get a descent piston and lighten it. Something like the Lonex Red and then swiss cheese it. Pairing it with a bearing-less piston head should keep his piston light enough to not need to short stroke yet. I will agree that swapping to a torque motor would benefit this gun quite a bit, but I doubt OP is willing to just keep throwing money at this project. We also don't know what kind of wiring/electrical he is using, and it is extremely likely he already has steel bushings in his gun... Correction, I just looked back, he is using 6mm steel bushings. Also for all we know he could be using 14 Gauge wiring with any number of different mosfets on the market now. Judging from the pictures he is likely using stock wire. I will agree, this stock wiring has to go if that's the case, stock wiring can't handle the kind of amps this gun is going to need. Now onto this..... "String Cheesing" of the piston.... First off what in the blueberry -muffins is String Cheesing a piston?!?! If you are criticizing lightening a piston, also known as "Swiss Cheesing" a piston, you really need to go back and read up on tweaks to airsoft guns. There are threads upon threads upon threads of discussions about lightening pistons, ranging from the benefits of doing it even in basic slower setups, to ways to lighten pistons to get the absolute lowest weights while retaining all of the structural integrity of said piston. There is no reason at all he should take it apart 'two more times' - giving him an arbitrary number of times to work on a gearbox is pointless and stupid unless you're just using it as a way of saying 'triple check your work'. Your information on this post is half-useful at best and has all the hallmarks of a novice tech that hasn't grasped the how or why mods are done to any part in the gearbox. Your criticizing of swiss cheesing is evidence enough of that. To the OP: If we're going to give you any real solid info from here out, I'd like to ask for a full and complete breakdown of your gearbox. Top to bottom, every major part and brand of part. Here is a template: Electrical: Wire type, brand, size/gauge, deans right? Mosfet or no? If so what kind? What kind of fuse, and how many amps is it rated for? Spring: This is huge, we don't know what spring you're running your gun at yet. An M100 vs an M130 is a huge deal in your kind of setup. Piston: I know it's kind of odd, but certain pistons don't work as well as others, like my Super Shooter clear blue, it's actually a bad piston in general and a bad choice choice of piston to use for something like this vs a Lonex Red. Left the gears/bushings/motor out as we already know what you're using. And any mods you've done to the gearbox. AoE, Sorbo, radius cylinder corners, glue bushings in place, etc etc. The more we know the more we can help you, if we can know every detail of every part in your gearbox it'd help a lot more than guesswork.
  4. Not to mention, this is an AEG using 13:1 gears and a high speed motor which I'm willing to bet is probably playing a descent part in the massive amp draw. It's generally accepted that if you use 13:1 gears, get a torque motor like a JG blue or ZCI Torque, both of which have 22TPA and can pull moderate springs on low ratio gears without requiring enormous amounts of amps. Do not put a bigger spring in your gun, instead, drop the speed motor and get a torque motor instead(or just put your stock gears back in). With your current setup, you absolutely MUST have perfect shimming, if any gear is at all too tight or there is any resistance when you spin the gears, your setup is going to always draw too many amps, and you will always blow motors/fuses/batteries. In short, either put your stock gears back in, or swap the turbo motor for a torque motor. Your current setup is going to require a much, much, MUCH larger battery to run than that little 2000Mah can put out. (assuming it isn't something like a 40c one)
  5. I'm generally okay with same-sex couples, because I've always believed in one of the core values of this country: "The pursuit of happiness." So if another guy is someone's happiness, or a woman is another woman's happiness and being with them makes them happy and it doesn't infringe on my life or how I live mine, I say go for it, I have absolutely zero reason to oppose it. It's only once they start pushing for things and doing things that screw with other peoples' lives that I start to have a seriously negative response to it. Take for example the wedding cake shops and businesses that have been forced to close down because the owners don't support gay marriage. Instead of simply going to another shop which *does* support it, and would happily make them a wedding cake, they opt instead to use social media and the current media machine to destroy the business instead. Instead of just letting the shop owners lose the business and money from the loss of the sale, they choose to take out all of their anger, spite, and malice on the people and have their business and owners bankrupted instead. At that point, I'll tell that person to take that rainbow flag and shove it up their %#$, because having a business shut down and bankrupted simply because they don't cater to a specific couple's desires is wrong on so many levels and orders of magnitude, it should be criminal. If a business doesn't provide the services you're looking for, go somewhere else that will - the market will balance itself out and businesses that aren't successful will fail and disappear.
  6. That piston also doesn't look like it's been lightened yet, if it's stock you may also have that heavy metal lug inside of it that the piston head screws into. I highly suggest given the ROF you're trying to achieve, lighten your next piston (swiss cheesing it) and get a new piston head that you screw in from inside of the piston and make sure to remove the bearings when you do.
  7. It's very difficult. Possible, yes, but many people outright say it's far more worth the effort to file the barrel's window to a square and then R-Hop that, you get more patch exposed, and the actual R-Hopping process is then easier.
  8. Ah, yeah... yeah that'd definitely do it. Lucky you though, it didn't slice one of the copper wires and ruin the armature.
  9. +1 to what Lefse suggests. I've had a few motors, iirc one of them even a Matrix 3K Magnum as well, having that very issue of dead spots. Motor wouldn't turn at all, acted like it was dead, and then with a quick twist of the pinion it started working again. It's entirely possible it's a lemon motor, but again, check first to make sure.
  10. Yeah, it just worries me because in the Upgrades/Mods section, there hasn't been a single post in over two whole weeks. It's pretty sad to be honest because I really liked this forum. Hell, even AirsoftMechanics has more traffic than here right now...
  11. Is the driver issue still happening to people? It seems like other than a few posts here or there, the forum is hardly active, like nobody is even visiting.
  12. BUMP. Lots of stuff sold - sold items removed.
  13. It depends entirely on what your hobby is and how committed you are to it first of all. I'm too freaking fat to ride on a bike like that so I'd go for the rifle! But more seriously though, what's the working condition of the Matrix rifle? The issue I see is, the monetary value is WAY against you if you own the bike already and it's in good working order besides the issue you specified. A Matrix rifle brand new won't be a penny over $300 even brand new out of the box, and those externals are probably worth maybe $150 at most. A good question to ask is, what are the internals? If they're stock then eh... that rifle brand new with all that stuff is maybe $450... maybe. If that gun has good aftermarket parts in it, then you might have something worth considering if you're looking to get into airsoft or getting a new rifle. But if you really like riding every weekend on the bike, then it really comes down to the question: Which would you enjoy more?
  14. Here is the photo of the trigger switch I promised. Basically what I did was I took about a 1mm thick chunk of plastic and used Loctite to glue it in place. After cutting it to sit flush with the wedge it's glued against, I tested it and now semi-auto works like a charm again. You *might* need to adjust your trigger contacts in the trigger assembly to get this working 100%, but consistent, reliable semi-auto is worth a few minutes of tinkering, wouldn't you agree?
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