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Lefse last won the day on October 19 2017

Lefse had the most liked content!

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13 Good

About Lefse

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  • Birthday 06/21/1988

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    CYMA MP5K, G&G Baby M4, ICS MP5, LCT RPK G&G AK-104, KWC Colt M1911 CO2.
  1. I see, thanks for the insight. Maybe I should try out Azimuth BB's to see what's the deal with that "custom" recipe, I'm definitely curious.
  2. That's what I suspected, they look the same and perform the same. Do you know of other brands made by that factory? They seem to be one of the better manufacturers out there, and would be good to have alternative sources when G&G and KA BB's are sold out. Other brands or manufacturers you'd recommend? I don't consider this off topic since this is relevant information for the OP.
  3. This is true, tried a batch of Elite Force .30g BB's, recently, the qality was so poor they didn't even feed properly. I do not understand why people recommend these. The best brands I'e used so far are G&G and King Arms, I suspect that they are made at that same factory.
  4. As long as you don't wear it with any military insignias I don't see the problem, it's just a type of camouflage and is just as viable for hunting as for military uses.
  5. Yes, but not in this thread, I have primarily focused on the compression issue in this thread. I do favor 11.1V li-po's for my own builds because I prefer to use lower ratio gears and higher TPA motors to not just get better trigger response, but to reduce gear and motor noise. With a higher voltage battery the motor will have the RPM of a lower TPA motor without sacrificing torque so it will accelerate to the working RPM more quickly. OT: No wonder you were having compression issues if the hop-up chamber wasn't seated properly.
  6. You could pull an M170 spring with a 7.4V li-po with the right setup. You don't seem to know Ohm's law, it's the power output in watts that determines how much load the motor and battery can handle. The downside to using a lower voltage battery is that current goes up, but I doubt the current will be too high if you stick to standard ratio gears. A neodymium magnet motor would definitely be beneficial as it'll have more torque and won't require as much power to pull the same load.
  7. I actually always recommend 7.4V li-po for stock AEG's, even for AEG's that's supposedly factory built to run an 11.1V li-po. Where did I talk about an 11.1V li-po in this case? Yes, I did say "meh battery", that didn't necessarily refer to lower battery voltage, I was referring to power output.
  8. Guarder or Prometheus are the brands you wanna use for springs, higher quality and consistent spring rating. I presume you haven't changed the cylinder or inner barrel? As for the PME question, that depends on ROF and piston weight. With a piston assembly lighter than 20 grams you can do at least 35 rps safely with an M120 spring, a Guarder SP110 is equivalent to an M120 by the way.
  9. No offense, but your gun is a hodgepodge of various brands so it's no wonder you're having issues. One potential failure point would be the Prowin hop-up chamber, time and time again people post threads everywhere about issues with these chambers, I don't understand why people still buy them. In the photo of the stock piston there's definitely signs of premature engagement, probably because you installed a faster motor in the gun without taking measures to prevent this. You're also using a Supershooter (SHS) spring, it's not unlikely that it's incorrectly rated and isn't actually an M120 spring. The lockup issue is probably because of the G&G M120 motor that has very little torque and a meh battery. It's also possible that it can be cause by poor shimming. How consistent is the FPS? If it's very inconsistent you probably have a major leak somewhere, if it's consistent it's either the spring or possibly un-optimal cylinder to barrel volume ratio. Guges Mk3 speaks the truth, the tolerances in the airsoft industry would cause lawsuits in other industries, that's how poor tolerances they're operating with.
  10. If you're bullied because of your weight at the field, then you've gone to the wrong field, in the right community your apperance won't matter. I've played airsoft with people that were close to your size, they didn't seem to be limited by their weight and people didn't harass them. Find the right field and you'll feel right at home and have plenty fun. I don't discriminate players, big or small, male or female, you all get a fair share of my BB's. :D
  11. What, CYMA is owned by Evike now? Damn, CYMA was finally getting good...
  12. No point replacing the stock hop-up chamber, it's at least as good as the Prometheus chamber, little point replacing the barrel too, high end G&G's have very good stock barrels. the stock green G&G bucking is also very good, if you're gonna stick with standard hop you might as well keep it.
  13. Exactly what battery are you using, brand and specs? I doubt the motor is to blame, unless it's faulty somehow. CYMA AEG's with model numbers over 40 usually have a 22TPA neo magnet motor that will easily pull the stock spring. I've had these motors pull an SP150 spring on 12:1 ratio gears without problems.
  14. Your gun already has a quite optimal inner barrel length power wise. With a longer barrel even an unported cylinder may have too little volume to give good compression with heavier BB's. With your current inner barrel length you are able to increase the cylinder to barrel volume ratio to compensate for AOE correction and to get optimal compression with heavier BB's. I've worked on many AEG's with inner barrels ranging from 110m to 630mm and the only practical difference is compression efficiency. I've found that it's easiest to get good compression efficiency with a standard AEG cylinder with barrels ranging from ~200mm to ~455mm. I've never seen any correlation between barrel length and accuracy, and range relies heavily on the hop-up and BB quality, as stated above.
  15. I agree, I've gotten surprisingly good consistency with nozzles with no o-ring in several guns, the seal between the hop-up bucking and nozzle is more critical. MY G&G M4 has the stock nozzle with no o-ring with a Lonex cylinder head and it has very consistent muzzle velocity, we're talking 2-3 fps deviation at most. If you take chrono accuracy and BB tolerances into account it's barely any consistency from the nozzle at all. Same thing with my CYMA CM.048 AK-74, it had surprisingly good stock consistency, so same story there.
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