Jump to content

to add your 300x250 banner, pay ad zone 5
Airsoft Atlanta is your source for quality airsoft guns and rifle parts
to add your Text Link here, pay ad zone 3

AirsoftAtlanta.com AirsoftNMore.com Airsplat.com AirsoftRC.com
Vote for us to add your 180x30 banner here, pay ad zone 2

If you appreciate this website, please ASF Donation or Check Out the ASF Store. If you can not help us financially,
then at least help us by telling a friend: Share us on your favorite social networking website Bookmark and Share


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 40oz

  • Rank
    ASF Immigrant
  1. pneumatic pump airguns work that way. You pump the gun one to ten times before firing. It's a decent solution, especially as for airsoft, it probably wouldn't take more than one pump. I don't imagine cost would be much of an issue as Daisy sells similar guns for ~$50, and they shoot lead pellets at 800+ fps. The only "cost" issue would be swapping for a 6mm barrel.
  2. Not all "real steel" scopes are all that sturdy. "Airgun rated" scopes (like almost all Leapers/UTG) are more durable than so-called "real steel" scopes. Airguns break scopes because the piston recoil is harsher and in a different direction than firearm recoil. Leapers/UTG is pretty respected by airgunners for solid scopes that work well. Illuminated reticles are nice because a black reticle dot gets lost in a shadowed woods environment. When aiming at a black or dark background you can turn the reticle on and off just to verify your aimpoint. Certainly not needed when shooting at paper targets. Well, not needed at all, but nice to have for evenings outdoors. And HUGE numbers of firearms owners are more about "tacticool" than function. Witness the number of AR-type guns sold in .223 and .308, and compare that to airsoft where you can actually USE your tactical gun without repercussion, either socially or legally. That said, I agree that a 4x32 is probably the best value. To the OP: What's your budget? A 4x32 will be light and inexpensive. A variable power scope can weigh a pound or more. A large objective lens like a 50mm will require tall scope rings to clear the barrel. Mildot reticles are nice for rangefinding when shooting at targets of varying distance.
  3. As others have said, you don't buy an accurate and reliable bolt-action airsoft gun. You make one. You start with the basic platform, whether it be a Remington 700 imitator as the VSR-10/Bar-10/M28, or a Type 96/L96/SD97. The cheaper the base gun, the more money you will have to spend to get it accurate and reliable. A BAR-10 is a common start because they are cheap and compatible, but unless you are upgrading everything at once you would be better off spending more money on a higher quality gun like the M28 or VSR-10. You are going to have to disassemble, clean, lube, adjust, and modify the gun to get it to shoot straight before you purchase any upgrades. Unless there is some reason your Super 9 won't take mods, you might as well start there. Take it apart and reassemble it if you haven't yet, making sure every screw is tight and the hop-up is shimmed to remove slop. Do all the free mods first such as barrel spacers, foaming the stock, etc. Then maybe a TM hop-up and barrel, or some other company's combo. A new hop-up bucking. Don't upgrade the spring until you are ready to upgrade the trigger mech. And at that point you will want to replace the piston, and then the cylinder while you are at it. At some point it might be worthwhile to find a nicer stock, maybe buy a used gun that needs work and swap parts around. But you are not going to be able to open a box and start nailing 150' headshots time after time using whatever BB's you have laying around no matter what gun you buy. And honestly, crappy ammo is a larger factor in airsoft inaccuracy than the smooth bore. Accuracy shot to shot is a function of consistency, and you need high quality ammo to get consistent shots. I like G&G .28's, but there are others - do a search. It's pointless to use crap BB's, especially when upgrading the gun.
  4. There are two conflicting limits on barrel length. You would prefer the barrel to be long enough to ensure all the air in the cylinder is used accelerating the BB. On the other hand, you want the BB to leave the barrel as soon as possible so the vibrations/impacts/etc. of firing has little time to affect the flight path of the BB. On one hand, you want as long a barrel as needed to match the air air the piston displaced. This could be as long as 800mm for a sniper rifle cylinder. On the other hand, you want the BB to leave the barrel before the piston hits the cylinder head so your aim isn't thrown off by that impact. Ideally the BB leaves the barrel just before the piston hits the head. Too long a barrel and your aim is killed by the piston impact. Too short a barrel and your velocity is killed by the BB leaving the barrel before the piston has gone even halfway. If a 650mm TBB was less accurate than a 590mm, I'd say you need to use heavier BB's. That will slow the piston so it might not hit the end of the cylinder before the BB leaves the barrel. Or use a weaker spring. Same effect - a weaker spring won't shove the piston so fast, so the BB has a chance to leave the barrel before the whole gun is shocked with the piston-cylinder impact. The longer barrel will almost always result in a higher fps as the BB is being pushed longer. But without knowing the volume of air displaced by your current piston/cylinder combination, nobody can say if you'd see an fps increase. There is no "simply put..." But in general a longer TBB will give you higher fps for the same BB, and/or better accuracy over longer range with a heavier BB. Same energy coming from the piston, but less waste. Heavier BB is less affected by wind, so more accurate relevant to fps.
  5. The fort sounds good, but it obviously depends on the site whether they will allow you to use it. As far as airsoft during hunting season, where I live you have to wear blaze orange if you are in the woods, whether you are hunting or not. And if you are in the woods or a field in camoflage carrying a gun without a hunting license or orange hat and vest, you are going to get your gun confiscated and a huge fine. Has zero to do with considerate neighbors or colored tape. Has to do with hunting regulations. And common sense.
  6. Most hardware stores have quite a collection of springs for a wide range of applications. I just measured the stock spring and looked at what they had for something close. Spring rates are determined by the gauge of wire and the number of coils in a given distance. So if you find a spring with the same diameter and number of coils per inch but thicker wire, it's a stronger spring. I've tried a few different hardware store springs in spring pistols, and you can add an incredible amount of power to a springer shot - the issue is keeping the gun from tearing itself apart.
  7. I used the crappy tool in verisimilitude's post. The hard part is finding one. Harbor Freight stocks them in their stores, but the pins are too big and there is not enough clearance for the nozzle. And it is weak, sloppy, and just not a good tool at all. But you can make it work. Sears stocks better versions, as do a few other online retailers. They are called adjustable pin wrenches or adjustable "Face Spanner Wrench". You don't need an adjustable one if you can locate one with the right pin and spacing. Armstrongtool.com and Martintools.net distribute them, and you could probably email them to see if they have one the right size. The pin size is 1/8", and they are 5/8" apart. And you need 3/8" clearance between the pins for the nozzle. Any machine shop that works on hydraulics probably has a suitable tool, and could probably break the head loose for $10. Otherwise you could spend ~$30-70 and buy a decent one. The issue is finding one with the right size pins and enough clearance for the nozzle. I was able to grind the cheap Harbor Freight tool to fit with my dremel and a sandpaper wheel. It took less than an hour of grinding and testing to make it work. But be careful of the pins - you want them fatter at the ends so they don't want to slip out of the sockets, and you don't want the diameter too small. An alternative tool could be made. Say a piece of hardwood, like oak or maple (vs. 2x4 pine). Drill two holes for the 1/8" drill bits to fit into the cylinder head sockets. Drill a hole to clear the nozzle. Then you'd have something you could get a hold on. A piece of 2" flooring or small piece of plain trim board would probably work. You could also make it out of steel or aluminum if you prefer.
  8. Yeah, probably. Although I think heating it will be sufficient. The reason I stuck it in the freezer is I thought shrinking the cylinder head would help. It wasn't as effective as I had hoped, but the head did eventually come loose. I didn't know there was locktite on the threads. Had I known, I would have just boiled it first. You should be able to let it cool down after boiling. The heat alone should do the job. But it might take a few boiling - freezing cycles before it comes easy enough to prevent damage to the parts. Electrical tape won't stick very well to anything really hot or really cold. So you probably are going to have to wait until it gets to room temps before working on it if you are using tape to grip the nozzle. The head is brass, which is a lot softer than any steel pliers, so you can easily damage it if you don't use something to protect it.
  9. The tool showed is what I used, and it is a total POS. The pins are too large and the metal bars with the pins have too much material to fit around the piston nozzle. I used a dremel to grind everything down to fit. Real PITA using that tool. And the piston head is sealed with Locktite. I ended up throwing the cylinder in the freezer, pulling it out and wrenching on it with no luck, tossing it back in the freezer, etc. three or four times before it finally broke loose. You could probably have more success putting the piston in a pot of boiling water for several minutes to loosen the Locktite. Or taking it to a hydraulic shop and asking them to break it loose for you. Make sure you tell them there is Locktite on the threads so they know. Once you get it free, the piston weights are held on by tiny Phillips screws that come off easily with the right screwdriver. I put teflon tape on the cylinder head seals to prevent the residual Locktite from sticking again, and to keep everything sealed.
  10. What were you unhappy with? Your ability to hit a target on demand 80 yards out? Or is the gun inconsistent even at 100 feet? And known good BB's. I like G&G, but I know there are other great brands. The difference between a "good" BB and a quality BB is actually significant. Using .28g G&G's I can put 5 shots inside a quarter at 30', but none of the other cheaper BB's I have laying around, including .25g Cybergun "Special Selection", are capable of that kind of accuracy at even 15 feet. I'm not saying P-Force are bad, I'm saying try another kind, like the Bioshots or G&G, and see if that helps.
  11. 40oz

    New Sniper Help

    Never mind. I don't know what I was responding to
  12. 40oz

    New Sniper Help

    The point is that with a heavy spring you need a 90* sear or you will just wear your stock sear to a nub. And need a new sear set as the increased wear on all trigger components wears down the pot metal. A 90* sear requires a new trigger mech. And the M-trigger is specifically a 90* trigger mech. For a reason. The VSR Zero Trigger comes with a piston for the 90* sear. V-triggers come with a piston end for the 90* sear. You do the math. I'm not saying you need a 90* sear for every spring but you can't change your 45* sears to 90*, and if you are upgrading trigger mechs, you go 90*.
  13. 40oz

    New Sniper Help

    Just buy it and worry about what upgrades you "need" later. FPS is a waste if you can't hit the target. If you upgrade the spring you will want a 90* sear trigger mech and a matching cylinder head. Eventually if not immediately. If you aftermarket the hopup chamber to an AEG-style you will need a new AEG barrel to match, regardless of internal diameter. If you buy the VSR, understand that it comes with what many consider the best bucking and hopup chamber already. That's one reason people buy them. You could just go all out and buy every upgrade possible, but if you do that there is no reason to start with a TM. If you are replacing the cylinder and piston anyway, go with a SG R700, as it is a clone of the Real Shock (Pro Sniper with weights on the piston to throw off your aim realistically :) ). Same tapered outer barrel and longer inner barrel. The main reason people upgrade their rifle is for consistent accuracy and range. People upgrade clones is because they don't have either. The reason to buy a TM is to get both without upgrades. That said, taking apart, cleaning, and reassembling your rifle greatly improves accuracy, and there are plenty of "free mod" threads to improve both range and consistency.
  14. 40oz

    Target Idea

    Well, does it work? Is it easy to see whee you hit, compared to a paper target? Something like a pie tin works because you can hear your hit, and see it later when you walk out there. Does your cloth target perform the same function?
  • Create New...