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40oz

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Everything posted by 40oz

  1. I am guessing that they have paid off the development and initial production costs and now have stock to move. And very probably will introduce a higher-priced tightbore with a new coating or something in a year or so. Either the initial investment required a large production run or they found a cheaper production method without sacrificing quality. Not many companies would severely drop quality just to move product. Well, Walmart couldn't exist without that quality drop, but PDI isn't Walmart :) Economically, you want demand and price to intersect at the highest point. With niche industries the model typically is high prices after first release, then a big drop in price once a profit has been realized. And ideally, the lower-priced later product is a better value as it benefits from prior development and is a mature technology with streamlined production. Think of mp3 players, smart phones, video cards, etc. They start as high-priced luxury goods and end up as commodity items without sacrificing quality as the production methods and established technology just got cheaper over time as initial investments have been paid off and you have learned from the effort. If PDI had to invest in machinery and develop a production line just for airsoft barrels, at some point they would expect see a return on that investment. Which as a consumer you would notice as a drop in price without a drop in quality. As a manufacturer, you would be working for a point where production capacity was able to meet demand at a lower price point, IOW refine your technology to better provide the goods with less labor and material cost - the very definition of "progress." You can move more product and have less fear of a rival trumping you with better quality at a lower cost. Does that make sense?
  2. FWIW I prefer open sights to a scope if my target might be moving while I'm shooting. It's too easy for a running target to run out of the scope then you have a hell of a time finding them again without taking the gun down. The "precision" of a scope is deceptive. Just because you can see it doesn't mean you can hit it. Just because the crosshairs are on the target doesn't mean the BB got the memo :) You might try a red dot. I know it sounds dumb, but they are designed to improve the speed at which you can put the bead on the target without killing peripheral vision.
  3. to the OP: Realistically, for the price they are asking it isn't a bad gun to buy just to see. I'm sure there are any number of free mods possible. Beig a China semi-clone, you should assume there are limited upgrades (hop-up and barrel) that you could perhaps just drop in, but everything else you need to research - what kind of trigger wold it take, what mags fit, is the barrel muzzle threaded, and how? The sights are aperture-style, and unless they include a large-aperture not pictured, it'll be a French "lady-of-the-evening" finding your target through a pinhole in the rear peep-front peep combo. Nice gun if it is accurate, probably not "skirmishable" just for sights alone out of the box, but definitely different and not real expensive just to bring to a game for fun. China guns are no longer the "money in the toilet" deal they used to always be. If nothing else it's unique and fun to shoot just for that. And possibly/probably uses a mix of components from off-the-shelf guns so you have an upgrade path, if not so straightforward as buying a Bar-10 and gutting it the first weekend and multiplying it's value by 2x or 3x so you can actually use it in a game reliably. I don't know that you can even get the Marushin one anymore so you won't likely have people with the semi-real deal making you feel bad on the field. I'd get it if you like it. Better than spending the same amount of money on a gun you don't like just because other people say so. And a pet peeve - it's "anti-materiel" as in "the equipment and supplies in a military supply chain." Kill one guy, an army always has another willing officer to promote already at the front. Knock out one $1,000,000+ missile system radar dome, they need to wait days, weeks, or months to get a replacement assembly and tech team while knowing some is out there with a very high-energy gun that can "take their head clean off" before they ever hear a shot. While they are blind and defenseless to enemy aircraft. Killing mere *people* seems pointless in that context.
  4. Scopes usually have removable covers on the elevation and windage adjusters. You take off the "handwheel" cover and loosen the wheel and adjust the zero with a tool. Then you can tighten the wheel up, put the cover back on, and your scope should be "zero'd". The exterior adjustment wheels only have so much movement as you've found. They are used to adjust a particular shot for range and wind, not for zeroing the scope initially. Windage-adjustable rings are handy either way - you can adjudt for windage in the ring&mount instead of the scope, giving you more possible play. I think a lot of companies make weaver rail rings that are windage adjustable. Millet Angle-Loc rings aren't too expensive (~$25 /pr) and probably some of the best.
  5. I know it sounds like a lot more work, but what if you used a larger aluminum square tube for the area surrounding the receiver instead of Kydex? AL is very stiff, easy to work with, and not that expensive. You can cut off the top side of the tube for the receiver and barrel and cutouts for the trigger and magewell, and drill it to screw into the smaller tubing running along inside. I'm thinking you would remove the entire stock of your gun and mount the reveiver and barrel to the narrower square tube with cutouts for the magwell and trigger mech. Mount the stock's buffer tube to the rear of the narrow tube. Run the narrow tube up to the front of the foregrip and put on your rails and bipod mount. You can use JB Weld for the mag release and probably improve the design/keep it from falling out. You can even use JB Weld to insert the buffer tube, I'd think - just coat the threads with shoe polish and pack JB Weld all around it from the trigger cutout. Once it cures fully you should be able to treat it like steel and thread it in and out. Or JB Weld a proper nut in there. Use a slightly larger square AL tube cut and drilled for the outer section. That way you get all the rigidity you need. You're looking at only ~$20-30 in AL square tube online. And again, AL is light, strong, stiff (no wobbles), and easy to work with - carbide bits will cut like butter and a dremel will make the cut-outs quick. Just go slow/low rpms because AL, like butter, tends to clog and bind drill bits. But even 3/16the shouln't be a problem. Filing/sanding edges will be quick and easy. I know what you are saying with the Kydex, but as you have pointed out, there really needs to be a stiff spine for the design. I don't think it would look or work as good if you stuck Kydex to a plastic stock and just tacked the buffer tube on somehow. I think if you built a new stock and foregrip of AL tubing it would improve the whole gun, I.e. no more shaky/creaky/flexible stock. And it would look killer. JMHO. Your idea has me working out how to convert my R700 into something similar. I think it's a very cool idea.
  6. Just got my Socom Gear R700 from ASGI. This isn't a review, merely a heads-up for removing the cylinder head on what's currently shipping. Mine has the "real shock" system of course. But the cylinder head is *not* pinned in. I bought a $4 Harbor Freight adjustable pin wrench to get the head off. The pins on the tool are tapered on the end (designed by a complete moron, obviously). Cheap tools are not worth the money. Either buy an adjustable pin wrench with interchangeable pins, or borrow a kit. Just not worth the hassle dealing with Harbor Freight garbage. I tried the various ways found on forums for removing the cylinder, and none weere useful. Slip-joint pliers would chew up the nozzle and holding an allen wrench with your fingers was clearly not going to work. I had to use my Dremel to grind off sizeable amounts of metal on the inside of the arms of the adjustable wrench just to clear the nozzle. Then I had to grind down each pin to fit the holes. An 1/8" drill bit fit -perfectly- in the holes. A pin wrench with interchangeable pins would be a far better tool for the job, at ~$45 and up. Or a piece of ~1/4" steel with a cut-out for the nozzle and holes for two 1/8" drill bits at the right spread. The HF tool is a waste of $4. A Dremel doesn't fix ****ty design. Tapered pins? Really? WTF? Did I already mention Harbor Freight is the K-Mart of tools? But sucks more? As for the gun, the cylinder is stainless steel, the cylinder head is brass. Nice looking pieces to start with. I finally got the cylinder head free, but it has red Locktite on the threads. That's what made it a motherless dog. I cycled it in and out of the freezer a few times, working with the POS pin wrench as best I could. I was ready to give up when it finally broke loose. The issue is that the more your tool slips out of the sockets, the more it chews the soft brass and the less likely even a properly designed tool will work at all. I put the cylinder in the freezer as brass shrinks more than stainless steel for a given drop in temperature. Very little help. Did I mention the RED Locktite? What you could do is heat the cylinder first. Red Locktite needs to be heated to 500*F to release. Very few o-rings can tolerate that temperature. But boiling temps are within the tolerance of most o-rings and might help. Just put it back in the freezer before trying to remove it. Brass both expands and contracts more than stainless, so a 212* F cylinder would lock the brass in the tube harder than Locktite. And I can grip a 0* F stainless tube far better :) A few hot-cold cycles should weaken the locktite without wrecking the cylinder or internals. Either way, I was able to get the cylinder head loose and unscrew the tiny screws holding the two weights on the plastic cylinder. I used teflon tape to prevent the locktite from causing a problem in the future, but it was clear that there was NO air leaking through that threaded joint. I'm guessing the pin/red Locktite was to address the heavy piston slamming into the piston head - without extreme measures, the threads *would* shear. And the weighted piston did add enough shock to make pulling the trigger throw off your aim. Removing it has no downside as long as you can do it without wrecking anything. Without the weights the gun is far nicer to shoot, far quieter, and at the very short distances I've tried it at, far more accurate. Especially offhand. It doesn't jump around before the BB leaves the barrel. Nice shooter, now.
  7. It sounds like you are thinking about needle-shaped plastic projectiles. I would suggest a plastic tapered rod with a "boattail" rear end and spiral-grooved front taper for a stable and accurate projectile. I DO NOT want to get hit with one. Nor would I aim it at you. Assuming everything you are thinking works flawlessly, what is going to happen when your bullet-shaped projectile hits human flesh? Will it be allowed on a field? Standard steel BB airguns are capable of far more accuracy than airsoft guns over the same distance. The difference obviously isn't projectile shape but rather projectile mass and velocity. Factors that come into play with an airgun that doesn't have to avoid hurting people - the steel BB can be shot at much higher velocities because nobody is going to aim it at something they don't want to put a hole in. Faster = less deviation from wind = more accurate, and then adding mass into the equation we get a shot that can really go where you point it over 100 or so feet. If you want to increase the accuracy of airsoft BB's you need to focus on factors that don't negate the whole point of airsoft - it's intended to be a toy gun that can't hurt people even if used improperly. We all know we can build a "toy gun" that can draw blood, but operating within the constraints of not drawing blood there is a lot of room for improvement in accuracy. It does occur to me that a ~.40g round shaped kind of like two .20g BBs wlded together might actually work. Rifling was a revolution with lead shot, but it may not be the answer for plastic shot. Hop-up was a revolution with plastic round BB's and required a significant step away from "traditional" thinking based on gunpowder firearms. I'm sure there is a lot of room for refining the hop-up concept. A grooved barrel or perhaps rifling on the projectile a la shotgun slugs might have useful application. But just like hop-up, major increases in airsoft accuracy might very well require a major step way from real steel technology and demand thinking about the problem as fundamentally different than lead and gunpowder technologies. Because it is.
  8. I guess I don't understand. Which is more accurate? Which do you prefer to shoot? Which is easier to carry? How could someone answer rationally with just a parts list and brand name?
  9. Wow. That's a pretty big horse you're sitting on.
  10. My point was merely that this is a good way to get the gun and parts. Even if you would add and replace certain pieces before you were done anyway. And I know the ad copy stated "every possible upgrade" but I wrote nobody here is claiming that. I would hope anyone with a few hundred to drop on a toy gun would already be aware of the difference between ad copy and reality. If not, well gotta learn sometime. And if they read these forums they'd be aware of that. If they don't do any research before spending their money, well, it's their money and it's a toy gun. It appears the only thing we disagree on is whether AirsoftGi is spawn of Satan or just another retailer. That apparently also sponsors this board. I'm not particularly worried about how other people spend their money, and I don't find AirsoftGI's upgraded guns particularly morally offensive. YMMV :)
  11. You mean vs. spending their money on springs and barrels and pistons and still not being able to hit their target or breaking their trigger sear/box because it's not just about parts brands and fps? I guess I'm not seeing the difference between buying parts separately and upgrading the gun yourself or buying a gun with some upgraded parts already. You still have to fiddle with everything to make it shoot straight anyway. If you are going to spend the money regardless, at least this way you have parts that actually fit the gun. I don't think anybody here was claiming it had every possible upgrade or that there weren't any better parts on the market. If you don't like it don't buy it. I'm not AirsoftGI's biggest fan but I'm not going to go out of my way to bash them for no reason.
  12. I've thought the same thing and came up with some of the same counter-points as have already been listed. A long barrel is great, but if you are only using the last foot or so to aim you might as well have a foot-long barrel. It only shoots where you point it, and sight radius is an important factor in aiming.
  13. As others have said, the ASR is intentionally easy to convert for southpaws. And it is a pretty nice gun out of the box. Just needs a scope and mounts because it has no sights. And as has been said, fps isn't everything. Being able to hit the target is more important. And a stronger spring alone will increase your fps quite a bit, but a stronger spring will also break your gun. I'd rather have a gun that shot accurately every time than one that would tear a bleeding hole in your thigh a few times out of a hundred then break beyond fixing. If you want more fps without breaking your gun, you can't just throw in a strong spring and call it a day. Simple and relatively cheap mods that won't break your gun but will increase your BB velocity include teflon mods and a tighbore barrel. The goal is to waste as little air as possible, because waste doesn't accelerate the BB. And to big a barrel not only wastes air but lets the BB bounce around inside it on the way to the end so you never know which way it's bouncing when it leaves the gun. The beauty is that making better use of the stock piston and cylinder by using more of the air doesn't increase the stress on anything that breaks. I have never heard of someone bursting their inner barrel from too much pressure.
  14. I've wondered the same thing. For the price it seems like it should be a good option, and few companies go through five generations of a product and still can't make it right. Somebody's gotta own one?
  15. My apologies. When I think of a German WW2 sniper rifle, I think of a G43 with a scope. But by the time that gun was available (reverse-engineered from a Russian design in 1943, issued in 1944), the German army was getting desperate and perhaps was issuing more scoped rifles. The WW2 German army didn't really embrace the whole "sniper" thing. They did give some additional training to certain regular infantrymen and issue them a scoped rifle, but they were more of a defensive tool for discouraging the enemy from encroaching on their location. There were never very many G43's made in comparison to the K98 variants, but scoped G43's were the gun issued to the trained marksmen once it was available. The K98 was the standard German service rifle, so there are millions of them around. It's pretty common for people to mount a hunting scope long after the war. Most of the images I could find of a K98 with a scope were obviously not vintage equipment, but sporterized military surplus rifles. Here's a link with three pictures of WW2 soldiers with scoped K98's: http://www.thedarkpaladin.com/russiansnipers.htm I've found a lot more period images of G43's with scopes, but it's possible that by 1943-44, the German military had more trained and equipped marksmen than they did at the start. The WW2 German army never used snipers the way or to the extent the Soviet army did. But the German army did issue scoped rifles. They didn't call the bearers "snipers," they called them "marksmen." (well, in German :) ) Because the bolt on that era Mouser occupies the top and rear of the receiver, you can have a forward-mounted scope called a "scout mount," using a low-power handgun scope. Or a sidemount similar to a Dragunov. Either way would simulate the K98.
  16. You could use short weaver rails as a scope ring base. The Picatinny rail design dates to 1917, I believe. I'm not sure there is a historically accurate scope mount for a gun that I don't really know ever saw use as a sniper rifle in WW2. If there was, I don't know what it would be. The mount would have to be similar to the Dragonov as the top of the receiver is open for the bolt, and mounting it forward on the barrel would put it really far forward for a "sniper rifle." On the other hand, you might consider what historical time period you are emulating. The M54 and M67 Norwegian military sniper rifles were bored out K98's and were in production and active military use as a sniper rifle up until ~10 years ago. So you can get as modern as you want and still have a classic wood stock rifle design that is historically acurate :)
  17. My intent was for the BB to leave the barrel before the piston hit the end of the piston. Not for the piston to hit and the BB to then start moving somehow fast enough to beat those vibrations. At 500 fps, the BB exits the barrel just longer than 1/250th of a second (Time required to accelerate through 2 feet of barrel up to 500 fps. And BASR barrels are commonly shorter than 2 feet.). If we can slow the piston so it takes a hair longer than the BB to reach the cylinder end, that shock is a non-issue. The barel spacers are still neede to center and control barrel movement between shots, but aren't required to damp piston shock while the BB is in the barrel. I'm not saying it's possible. But it would seem worth investigating - a long, fat cylinder with a spring that is shorter than the cylinder. So the piston's acceleration stops before it hits the cylinder end. Realistically, there is no reason cylinder pressures need to accelerate at the same rate throughout the piston travel. I think there is always going to be a trade-off between fps and accuracy. The goal would be to over-build the gun so you can give up significant fps and gain significantly consistent accurate shots out to say 300 feet. Gas guns do solve that piston smack issue. I've got nothing against gas guns except buying gas and the way gas is affected by cooler weather. It might be the only way to achieve consistent accuracy, however. It just seems a spring bolt is an elegant and efficent design. That doesn't mean it is automatically the best, however :)
  18. sniperelite7- You make good points. IMHO, range means nothing if you can't hit what you are aiming at. We know we can get the range with a heavy spring or dumping a ton of gas in one shot. The issue is hitting the target reliably. Which is why this discussion is pushing for increased consistency and accuracy. A bolt action only has one shot. We can't spray ten BB's pout in a shotgun pattern and assume one will hit the target. I know my real steel rifle will hit a target at 100 yrds if I do my part. I don't know my springer rifle will, no matter what I do. That's the part we are trying to change. And everything that leads to better accuracy with BASR will lead to improved accuracy and consistency with AEG's. It's called an "Arms Race" :) *** The discussion pertaining to shock and vibration has made me consider that the shock of the piston hitting the end of the cylinder is probably responsible for most of the random deviations in spring-and-piston airsoft guns, AEG's included. Lots of people cut off the air brake in pursuit of speed, all kinds of barrel spacer ideas are thrown out to dampen shocks, etc. Seems counter-productive. I'm thinking of a long and fat cylinder, short but strong spring, and an air brake. Don't try to use all the air in the cylinder. Make it big enough that you don't have to. It seems to me that if the BB left the barrel before the piston hit the end of the cylinder, it wouldn't be affected by that shock.
  19. It seems to me we ought to be starting with the best stock, receiver, and barrel configuration currently existing before getting into what kind of barrel spacer or BB shape is required. The L96 stocks are modeled after stocks designed to give the shooter every aiming advantage. But if the barrel is not aligned properly with the piston chamber, the stock design is wasted. In other words, regardless of barrel spacer, if the inner barrel is not aligned properly and perfectly straight, your gun won't be accurate or consistent. And we have no assurance that the best stock from a shooter's perspective is mated with the best receiver-to-barrel mating method. Does anyone have any input on how the outer barrel is mated to the receiver/piston mechanism? If the outer barrel is not properly and permanently aligned, the spacers won't do much other than affect specific shots. Consistency from shot to shot will still vary as the inner and outer barrels shift in response to conditions and piston shock. I'd think that someone would have an observation as to the various ways companies attach the outer barrel to the receiver, and how sturdy that connection is. Is there a better platform than another from specific criteria? I dooubt one gun style has all the best features, but it might be possible to mate an "ideal" receiver-barrel to a stock, and then work on hop-up, barrel spacers/damping, and spring/piston/cylinder behavior. In other words, starting with the stock, can we mix and match existing parts and technologies to come up with the "ideal" BASR based on existing equipment? A wish list of features and designs that already exist but not necessarily together in stock form? And not necessarily possible to actually build? And once we have that nailed down, things like barrel spacer tech and hop-up designs and BB shape can be refinements. Just an idea I had. Not saying we need to stop fleshing out other ideas. But an ideal barrel spacer or hop-up is a waste if your outer barrel shifts with every shot, or your stock prevents consistent targeting. Each shot might be ideal, but you might not aiming it where you think you are. :D I'm just thinking the "ideal platform" for all these ideas might not actually exist yet. (And if it does, I want to know what it is :) )
  20. Crap! The last paragraph should open with: "There are a large number of reasons why an airsoft BB isn't as accurate as other projectiles. A big part of that is just mass." I was trying to convey that the small mass of the projectile is the major reason for inconsistent shooting. Thanks for seeing that :) My typo implied the opposite.
  21. The reason for hop-up is two-fold. The plastic BB is too light and isn't moving fast enough to carry very far. The backspin - hop-up - gives the BB some lift after it leaves the barrel, you can see it go out then curve upwards before arcing back down. To get a similar range without hop-up you'd have to increase the BB's weight and velocity greatly, which would just hurt people. And the spin gives the projectile a degree of stability in the air. Since the BB is round, it wouldn't automatically have more longitudinal stability if it spun like a bullet or football. But the hop-up spin does reduce the tendency to veer off even when there is no wind. The spin on a BB is similar to that on a golf ball - it gives it lift and helps keep the path straight - it doesn't "want" to deviate from a straight line, but being so light, it can't put up much of a fight. There are a large number of reasons why an airsoft BB isn't as accurate as other projectiles. A bit part of that is just mass. But another huge part is all the variances from the time the BB is fired until it leaves the barrel. And that's not even getting into the way a person uses their gun. It takes a lot of practice to fire a real steel gun accurately and consistently, especially without a support for the gun.
  22. What would the consensus be? I'm leaning towards a bullpup springer, but it needs to be possible to upgrade the barrel at the very least. FWIW, I did a search and couldn't find any recent entries. I'm looking for something that might stil be in stock somewhere. The fullsize M16 is an attractive option as long I can mount a scope, esp. if I could remove the handle and front sight, I.e. mount the scope near the barrel. Saw them off I have to, on a springer. But it's not worth it if you can't upgrade the barrel or spring without breaking the gun. The bullpup design is more attractive as I can get a much longer barrel without increasing the gun length, but I've never owned a bullpup airsoft, so I don't know if they really follow the design or if it is just cosmetics. Can anyone give me advice here? Do bullpup springers put the receiver/piston/spring behind the trigger and grip, or is it cosmetic? And if so, are they impossible to upgrade or like pistols, do they break down like the real guns, more or less? IMHO, a shorter bullpup design is better as long as it gives me the same barrel length (or longer with a "silencer") and lets me upgrade the barrel to a tightbore. It's not useful if nobody's bullpup is a real bullpup design, or nobody makes a springer bullpup that can upgrade the barrel. If there is a solid AEG that would make a good semi-auto sniper without breaking the bank, let me know. I'm looking for something not everyone has, not something so unique I'm screwed :) Thanks in advance :)
  23. I'm finding this discusion fascinating. I'm currently looking for a platform to hit reliably out to 200'. Consistency to 100 yards would be icing on the cake and a personal accomplishment. I disagree with the need for a different shaped projectile. We could re-invent the gun if this is taken to the logical conclusion - more mass, more velocity, heavier projectile, shaped and spun for stability, voila gunpowder and lead! LOL But I'm not shooting down the idea. It's fascinating. An airsoft minie ball would be an interesting thing. I'm also going to endorse a short but fat cylinder - you can make a lot more force by moving a large amount of air relatively slowly than a small amount of air fast. An air spring would work fine, but I'd pressurize the gas behind the cylinder to increase the force imparted to the BB. Of course, "would work fine" assumes you can seal the area behind the piston to a higher pressure than in front of the piston. A spring is a simpler technology that can do the same thing - no need for o-rings and seals to contain a high pressure gas, but behaves the same way. And is less afected by ambient temps. But the air spring idea is worth considering - it could be charged like a gas gun and have a valve that opens once it reaches the end of travel and dumps behind the bb, so you'd have the benefits of gas and spring in one. Not much worse a gas hog than a blowback pistol, but potentially much higher velocities than you'd get from a spring or gas alone. I couldn't make it work, but I bet someone at KSC or something would know exactly how to do it. My wish list is the longest practical barrel, the largest volume cylinder, and a tighbore barrel, with no leakage behind the BB. Once you have those, refinements can begin. "Longest practical barrel" is obviously subjective. I would prefer the shortest possible barrel while still hitting my target, but I'm guessing that the "shortest possible" is still longer than I'd say is practical: ) Another consideration has to come up - breakage. It does no good to get the maximum power out of a kit if it breaks in the field. There needs to be a way to slow the piston before it smacks the end or you will break the cylinder eventually. Ask me how I know :)
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