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Everything posted by CBox

  1. 1. The SHS High Torque is a great choice. The JG Blue isn't bad either. The former will give you a better cycling rate; the latter is more efficient. 2. I'll leave this one to someone with more electrical experience. Do you know what the ratio of your gears is? Are they standard, or some variant of "high-speed"? 3. If you haven't already corrected your piston-sector angle of engagement, then yes. Even if you already have corrected AoE, a sorbo pad wouldn't be a bad idea. Determine how thick of a pad you'll need by measuring how far back your piston needs to be spaced to correct AoE. After taking that measurement, remove the rubber from under your cylinder head and measure its thickness. Since the sorbo pad will replace the stock rubber pad, the thickness you'll need is equal to the distance your piston needs to be spaced back, plus the thickness of the stock rubber pad. I use 70D pads over 40D ones because they compress less under the force of the piston. Clandestine carries a bunch of different laser-cut sorbothane pads. Make sure you get the kind that are cut for V2/V3 cylinder heads. If you can't find one in your exact thickness, it'd be completely fine to get two or more and glue them together. 4. White lithium grease works fine for gears. Make sure it's the thicker kind and not the kind that sprays on: spray-on lubricants are generally too thin to be effective. Be sure that none of the grease gets onto the compression parts. Are you sure your gears aren't shimmed too tightly? A small amount of up-and-down play isn't a bad thing. In my experience, getting the motor height correct on V2 gearboxes without a motor cage is a little tricky, so make sure your pinion and bevel gear are meshing properly. Since you're looking to increase the durability of your gearbox, I'd recommend radiusing the corners of the cylinder window. Only try this if your gearbox shell doesn't already have this though.
  2. It's possible that your gears are somehow out of alignment, or are improperly shimmed. Try removing the cutoff lever, anti-reversal latch, compression parts (piston, cylinder, tappet plate, etc.), and motor, then spinning the gears by hand. They should be able to coast freely without rattling too much. e: whoops, mb. I'm an illiterate scrub
  3. Speaking of barrels, what about bore lapping? I realize that gains realized from lapping are usually small when it's performed on higher-end barrels like PDI or Prommy--but how about when it's done on a cheaper, but still "reasonably good," barrel like the aforementioned ZCI? Is there a point in buying a Prommy barrel instead of getting a ZCI and putting in some time to lap it? How similar would the end results be for a lapped Prommy and ZCI side-by-side? OP, start with some of the DIY mods listed here. The compression mods are especially important for long-range guns, as they help decrease shot-to-shot muzzle velocity variance. Start by testing the compression of your gun's airseal components and work from there. Before you begin sinking money into your build, it'd also be a good idea to get familiar with how your gun works. Look up M4 takedown and V2 disassembly guides--be sure that you can take apart your gun and put it back together before you start throwing parts at it. That way, if you happen to break something, at least it'll be a stock part that you might replace anyway, rather than something you dropped X additional dollars on.
  4. JG M4 is a good choice. The metal ones aren't stamped steel or CNC'd aluminum or anything but they're still reasonably sturdy. Look for one with the JG high-torque blue motor and you'll be set.
  5. Not sure about anyone else, but I wouldn't judge. So long as you don't brag about your gear, you're reasonably modest when people ask about it, and you don't do anything extremely dumb, you should be fine!
  6. Alright, thanks for the intel. I'll pick up a couple lower-rated polyfuses and go that way.
  7. If you want a 9.6v NiMH battery, go with one from Elite: http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/102-elite-airsoft-1500-mah-23a-96v-nunchuck-battery-packsmall-type.aspx
  8. I'm finishing up a basic M4 build and I'm looking to put in a resettable fuse to protect the motor. 28-32A seem pretty common, but the only ones I have on hand are 20A. Will a 20A polyfuse work, or should I bite the bullet and buy something rated higher? Is a fuse even necessary for this setup? Relevant specs: motor: JG Blue gears: XYT 18:1 spring: some old M120 MOSFET: APEX Garter battery: Thunder Power 11.1v 1250mAh 45C (will probably switch to a high-discharge 7.4v LiPO)
  9. Lefse got it! Unfortunately, I'm running into issues with the MOSFET itself and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot. When I hooked up the battery to the wiring harness, I got off three shots in semi and then nothing. Nothing happens when the trigger is pulled and the MOSFET-fuse unit doesn't heat up so it doesn't seem like the fuse is tripping this time. I checked all of the wiring for breaks and shorts and everything seems okay. I'm all set and ready to go checking with a multimeter... but where do I start?
  10. After 3 years, I pulled my JG G36C out of its box to put it back together. I immediately rewired the motor to ring terminals because four years ago, I had sloppily soldered the motor wires directly to the motor terminals. Whenever I pull the trigger, the fuse trips immediately. I checked all of the wiring for shorts and (unless my multimeter is bad) there aren't any. I removed the motor from the gearbox to see if it would turn without any load and the fuse still trips right away. The motor doesn't spin at all before the fuse blows, but it seems to twitch very slightly when the trigger is first pulled. Relevant specs: motor: SHS High-Torque battery: 11.1v 56A LiPo MOSFET/fuse: Extreme-Fire SW-SF-II, 30A connectors: genuine Deans Additional info: battery tested and working MOSFET seems to be working (hooked up motor wiring to a multimeter to test) motor seems to be working (it worked 3 years ago when the wiring was soldered directly to the spade terminals) problem persists regardless of whether the wiring is in the gun or the motor is connected to the gearbox trigger assembly tested and working I'll test the motor in a different gun to ensure that it works. I'll also try hooking up a different motor to the G36's wiring. Pictures of motor wiring and ring terminals on motor: http://cl.ly/image/2d0k2F1V0c3x?_ga=1.111903820.916558758.1438883657 http://cl.ly/image/1R1L2h0F1P37?_ga=1.111903820.916558758.1438883657 http://cl.ly/image/2p3O3g3g3l2O?_ga=1.111903820.916558758.1438883657
  11. JG M4 is tried and true. The upper and lower receiver are plastic but that doesn't stop it from being a good gun. The "enhanced" versions usually come with the high-torque blue endbell motors.
  12. Yep, afaik Dream Army is the OEM for SHS parts. I remember when the SHS hype took off and SHS HT motors started flying off the shelves. I've had one in my G36 for at least four years and it's been fine--out of curiosity, do yours tend to run hot? It felt like a lot of people jumped from SHS onto the Lonex bandwagon a few years ago and dumped their SHS motors in favor of the Lonex A2.
  13. I don't have much firsthand experience with barrel finishing, but wouldn't it be advantageous to lap a reasonably high-quality uncoated stainless barrel rather than going at it with a conventional polishing compound? At least, that's what I've gathered from ASM: http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=9313.0 Just a quick side point. Someone with more experience than me should weigh in to set things straight.
  14. If you're looking for pre-built MOSFETs, Extreme-Fire is definitely a great option. One of the simple units should be more than enough for your setup. Do you have experience with soldering?
  15. Bioshot BBs were my go-to when I used to play more often, but that was a couple years ago--I'm not sure if they've adjusted their material or whatever, but they were good when I used them. G&G bio BBs are also good, like Guges mentioned.
  16. Correct AoE, reshim, install a MOSFET, wire to deans, and use a quality 11.1v LiPO battery. That should get you there at well under $300.
  17. Yes, things like the drop-in Firefly easy-peasy-japanesey flat nubs should work--in theory. But why pay $15 for a little piece of rubber when you can do the same thing yourself for essentially free using a file, a little rubber, and maybe a piece of plastic. Heck, a pack of M-nubs is about the same price also. I think the hop up arm mods that Guges mentioned come more to play when the hop window is elongated, as with ER-Hop.
  18. ^ This is all true. However, if you familiarize yourself with how R-Hop works, how it is installed, and how to use it, you should obtain some tangible gains if you install your new R-Hopped barrel properly.
  19. One 1/4in 70D sorbo pad wasn't quite enough to fix AoE in my G36, so I added fiber washers between my piston and piston head to make up for the longer gap. Granted, you could just buy two sorbo pads to be safe. Note that if you take this approach and use multiple washers, it might help to glue them together to keep them from sliding around. Also, be sure to get a longer piston head screw to accommodate the added distance between the piston and piston head.
  20. What kind of paints do you use? Be aware that there are quite a few members on here who do things like powder enamel coating in a similar price range, though I haven't seen anyone who does patterns.
  21. It depends on what's wrong with the "upgrade job." Usually the sector or spur fails first if the piston has a full metal tooth rack. That, or the piston rack caves in... With a poly-toothed piston, the piston usually strips before the gears break, but anything goes. Spur failure usually occurs first because it faces the most stress: it has to connect the bevel to the sector.
  22. This... If it ain't broke, don't fix it, as the cliche goes. Part failure usually goes piston, spur gear, bevel gear, sector gear, from my experience.
  23. Guges is referring to under-voluming. Since your KWA came stock with a 363mm barrel, the stock cylinder is likely only volumed to go with a barrel of that length. Since you want to increase the barrel length, you'll need a new, appropriately-volumed cylinder. I believe a Type 0 (non-ported/solid/no holes) one is what you'll have to get. That aside, a 550mm barrel length is a bit excessive. I understand that you want to use a mock suppressor, but you'll have an easier time handling a shorter gun that puts out the same performance. You'll be better off picking up a battery from an RC store like HobbyKing if you can: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/index.asp Just measure the maximum dimensions of your battery compartment and go for the pack with the highest mAh and C-rating you can get.
  24. When I used to play more often, Ukau's in Galt near Stockton was my go-to field. It's a pretty low-key operation but the staff were pretty friendly a few years back when I last visited.
  25. Increasing your FPS consistency will help your accuracy. Start with the compression mods listed here: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/220266-miscellaneous-internal-tweaks-guide/
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