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About MDI_Weapon

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 02/12/1969

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Too many to list.
  1. In my experience with the Matrix springs, they are a bit hotter than rated - however, they normally will settle down to right around the rated power (or maybe slightly higher) once they are nicely broken in.
  2. You can do just about anything to an M4 as they likely have more accessories than any other gun on the market. Some more detail as to the exact make and model of the gun (link to the exact gun if possible) along with what type of field you want to play on (close quarters, field, etc.) will help with suggestions for parts and where to get them.
  3. Not surprised. I have ran into a similar problem with several different AEGs recently - the glue they are using on the flash hiders seems to be getting progressively meaner. I boiled one for several minutes and it still refused to come off even when using enough pressure to make me concerned about the possibility of cracking the metal outer barrel. I ended up taking a Dremel cutoff wheel and slotting it lengthwise in four equally spaced points - I then used a flat head to pop out each of the sections. The glue on the threads was a semi-clear white that definitely looked like some form of cyanoacrylate.
  4. It is do-able but you need some fairly heavy duty tools and bits/reamers to do it correctly. I modded my Sig552 v3 gearbox from 6mm to 8mm and it runs extremely well. I had no problems shimming or with the gears making contact with the gearbox and it runs very smoothly so I apparently managed to keep everything straight. Modding the bushing holes with a Dremel is possible in theory but the odds of doing it right with a Dremel are likely fairly thin unless you are a Jedi-Dremel master and extremely lucky as well. I used a drill press with an x-y table, TiN coated metric drill bits and a high speed industrial-grade reamer. Clamping the gearbox is also a pain because if you have it too loosely clamped it will move. However, if you clamp it too tightly you will likely crack the gearbox. If you do not already have most or all of the tools, buying even a very high-end 9mm gearbox will be much less expensive.
  5. What gun is it for? In other words, do you need a long, medium or short motor? Some places have the short in stock but not the long, the medium but not the short, etc.
  6. G&P motor vs. Element high speed motor addressed below. Bearing piston heads are known to be problematic? How exactly? I have 11 ball bearing spring guides in 11 different guns with 11 different ball bearing piston heads and I have had no problems with any of them. Two of them have been running with BB spring guides and BB piston heads since 2005 and have at least 50,000+ BBs fired through each of them with no issues related to the piston heads. The only problem that might occasionally be encountered when using a BB spring guide with a BB piston head is adequate room for spring compression due to the ball bearings acting as spacers at both ends of the spring. If that is an issue, you either switch to a short PDI-style spring or nip off one coil of the factory spring. Problem solved. As for Swiss cheesing the piston or using a lighter piston not being advantageous - did you read OP's post (#7 in this thread) regarding what he wants to achieve?. I.e.: Speed. The link you posted for the thread (with your post) at airsoft mechanics is primarily with regards to FPS. One gun with one test does not equal scientifically verified. Just because you tried it with one gun and got those results does not mean it will work in all guns. Quick check on the laws of physics...it is now easier to move a heavier object more quickly? No. RoF benefits from a lighter piston - if you read the article on pistons at airsoft mechanics, you should have noticed that the lightest piston has the highest RoF (and in several cases, higher FPS than the same AEG with a heavier piston when using the same barrel and the same spring). OP may take a small hit to FPS when using a lighter piston (doubtful since he is using the stock spring at ~380fps) but that is a common trade off when trying to increase RoF. However, FPS loss is by no means absolute as demonstrated in the airsoft mechanics article as lighter pistons had better RoF and FPS in more than one instance. Also, we are going to put a heavy piston in a gun with a RoF increase? Is the primary goal to wear out parts and gearboxes as quickly as possible? If you increase the piston weight on a high RoF gun, you will loose rps and you will shorten the life of the gearbox and the piston as the extra weight in the piston contributes to stress failures. For someone asking for empirical data to support claims, you do not seem to offer much. Your empirical data is with regards to one particular gun/one motor/one particular setup. There is nothing to prove the G&P is better than the Element motor because you have no data for the Element motor. If someone else slapped up some data for the Element motor with numbers that were better, the same or worse, it wouldn't mean anything because all of the other factors that need to be controlled have gone out the window (different gun, spring, barrel, etc.). In other words, the fact that you have 4 G&P motors and they are performing well does nothing to prove they are better than the Element high speed motors in any way, shape or form. Do you have an Element motor or have you done a direct comparison with the Element motor and then the G&P motor in the same gun and then measured rate of fire and FPS in both? Check your scientific method...bigtime. I have two Element high speed motors and they perform as well, if not better, than any I have seen since I started building airsoft guns ~5 years ago (5 years = building literally dozens of AEGs and thousands of $ in parts alone). I suppose I could measure BB weight, BB diameter, check the BB for microscopic defects with a microscope on 100x, measure RoF, FPS, current air temp, humidity, time of day, altitude, proximity to the equator and the temperature of my butt in my chair as I type this but I would neither slap it up on a forum claiming the results to amount to a universal law of airsoft nor expect others to treat it as such. How many AKs do you own or how many have you built? I currently have six AK variants all of which are highly modified for one purpose or another including a high RoF AK. I know what makes an AK AEG tick and how to make them run like a Bugatti. With regards to building a speedy AK, see this post: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/ak47-upg...2#entry18478672 ^oh wow, I can link to things I typed in the past as well.
  7. Ouch. I have a dent & hole in my wall from letting a spring guide slip with a M170 - I had a bit of silicone spray on my hand and the steel tool I was using to control the spring and spring guide slipped through my fingers...that was promptly following by "zing!" and "thump!" Catching one of those in the face would severely suck.
  8. Element High Speed motor would be a good start - they are dirt cheap at KH Mountain ~$25. I would run that motor with standard ratio gears, either Swiss cheese your current piston or buy a lightweight piston and swap out the bushings in your gearbox for bearings. Add a good 9.6v battery or maybe a 7.4v lipo. To help avoid spring binding issues, I would add a ball bearing spring guide and a ball bearing piston head. The stock spring on that gun is rated for around 380fps - the Element High Speed motor will not have any problems with that spring. Actually, it will probably be a bit odd to hear an AK fire that fast.
  9. I would be slightly reluctant to go with that piston for a couple reasons. First, as you already mentioned, it is a new piston and its durability is basically unknown. The second reason is even though it is a Systema part (most of which are very well made), they have had some problems with some of their pistons. For example, the Systema Area 1000 piston had a number of issues - many were out of spec and too wide for a number of different gearboxes and they were also known to strip within days (if not hours) of use even when used with M100 springs. There is no reason to take a chance with a relatively unknown piston when there are several tried-and-true pistons on the market in the same price range. The Modify polycarb piston is 5 cents higher than the Systema Energy and it is known to be very durable. However, since you are putting it in a G&P and you plan to use a G&P piston head, I would likely go with G&P's white poly piston for slightly more money.
  10. as a practitioner of dry humor, I caught that and gave it the seal of approval. :) back to the topic at hand: what type of gearbox are you fighting?? I have never had a gearbox that I could not get back together but I have had a few I considered melting with a torch during the process.
  11. I just got one of my mags for my JG G36c to run 100% on semi or full with Bioshot .20s (and they are damn accurate) - I used some gear that most likely do not have laying around on their bench (unless you worked on one of the lens for the Hubble telescope or you polish the nibs on extremely delicate and expensive fountain pens) so I am going to test out a couple different approaches with some other easier-to-find materials. Should work but I will not know for sure until I try it out. On the G36c mag, just tweaking the feed tube and/or silicone spray lube did not fix the problem - I had to make a couple other minor adjustments. Quick question for others having issues - take one of your mags and load it with BBs you know work well in your mag. Note how the BB sits at the top of the mag's feed tube (when under tension if you are using high caps). Then load the same mag with some Bioshot BBs and look closely at how the BB sits at the top of the mag (again, under tension if you are using high caps). Does the position of the Bioshot BB look the same as the BB that works?
  12. Find a scope or binocs with 2x - walk out into a field and try it out. Then go into anything resembling close quarters and try it out. Just for the fun of it, do the same in a woodland setting. Then compare it with a 4x or 5x in the field and a 1x in close quarters. Your question will answer itself. There is a reason that ACOGs are 4x, there is a reason for Aimpoints and matching removable/flip-to-side magnifiers just as there is a reason that 2x optics are not popular. Sometimes you can successfully be a jack-of-all-trades but in the case of a 2x optic the end result is that it just isn't really good at any of them.
  13. +1 on the Madbull version 2 barrel +1 on Systema bucking +1 on ball bearing spring guide but depending on the version of your gun you may need to nip the other end of the spring if it uses a piston head spacer that makes the spring captive. A ball bearing piston head wouldn't hurt and between the ball bearing spring guide and the ball bearing piston head, you would get a slight boost to FPS. I would add: SCS or Polar Star hop up spacer/nub Different shim set that includes 0.1mm, 0.15mm, 0.3mm, 0.5mm sized shims - IIRC, the Guarder set does not have .1 shims which I end up using fairly often. Air Nozzle with an o-ring for better air seal...I am not exactly thrilled by the performance of most JG air nozzles. Sorbo pad for a bit of added protection and to help with Angle of Engagement issues - speaking of which, you need to check your AoE if you have not done so already. Good lube for the gears...JG gearbox is likely either flooded with goopish grease or on the verge of bone dry...they almost never have the right amount of lube in them. Does your JG g36c have metal bushings or bearings? If not, I would add them since you are going to have the gearbox open to re-shim it anyway - will just save you the trouble later. If your gun has bushings, you might consider adding bearings for slightly improved RoF. Other than the parts: --polish the rails in the gearbox (the ones for the piston)...the piston rails on JG gearboxes usually do not have any major snags but a little polish definitely helps them run better --adjust AoE --remove 2nd tooth on piston
  14. There is nothing wrong with my mags that are having problems with the Bioshot BBs - several of them are brand new (literally right out of the package). I have two mags that are brand new that I disassembled, wiped down with silicone and then wiped out again and they still don't like the Bioshots - one of those two is a TM high cap which will usually feed anything with no probs. As mentioned previously, if I remove the Bioshots, the mags work perfectly with AE Precision .20, Airsplat .20, ICS .20 Invisible, Airsoft GI .25, AE Precision black .25, AE Precision .25g and Golden Ball .30. Those were all the brands and weights I had on hand but you get the idea - the mags like everything except Bioshot (I've tried .20, .25 and .30) for some reason. I am going to go over them again tonight to see if I can pin down what is causing the issues but there is nothing obviously flawed with the mags that is to blame (no rough spots, plastic molding lines, plastic tags, etc) and they seem to work perfectly with everything else. However, I will figure out what is causing the hang ups and get the Bioshots to work...if nothing else, just for my own amusement. EDIT: one JG G36c mag is now 100% reliable with bioshot .20s...I doubt most have the same stuff that was used to polish the lens on the Hubble telescope laying on their bench...so I am about to see if the same tweaks work on the other mags using slightly different materials.
  15. Were those BBs from during the sale or before/after the sale? I am beginning to slightly wonder about the motivation behind the big sale on these BBs...
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