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Everything posted by renegadecow

  1. TM has been working hard in enforcing their patent rights since they made their Next Gen AEGs. Expect the same with their AA12. Just save up some more and get original like everyone else.
  2. PDI w hold has two raised rings on the outside to tighten up against the barrel. Instead of silicone oil, use dishwasher soap to ease it in (more slippery than silicone) then rinse it thoroughly in warm water.
  3. Welcome to the wonderful world of Made In China and Zinc Pest. Zinc diecast can be strong if made with the right blend and purity. Echo 1 just rebrands cheap China :pain: which is more often than not made of melted down Matchboxes cars. This horrible slurry that they use to make guns may be fine when really new (new old stock doesn't count) but is susceptible to what is known as zinc pest, basically a rotting down of diecast parts due to oxidizing impurities. Buy cheap, buy twice.
  4. Folding stocks are meant to be used for transport or within vehicle use. The last thing you want to do when engaged during patrol is fiddling around with the stock.
  5. I don't get it. If it's just a board game, why make it specifically around airsoft? It could just as well have been based on actual armed (mil/LE) encounters?
  6. Why? They're all equally useless for ranged use.
  7. 1. With sniper rifles in your budget range the materials used are somewhat correct. Steel or alloys for barrels and receivers and wood or composite for stocks. 2. Gas blowback: can't get any more real than that. Electric blowback: waste of time. Electric blowback with recoil: these can get well over your budget like Tokyo Marui's Next Gen SCAR H. 3. Generally speaking, automatic electric guns (AEG) are cheaper than gas guns and gas blowback (GBB) guns out of the box. But when upgrading them to perform as sniper rifles, it takes more money on an AEG as it requires a chain of stronger parts to take the abuse of a much stiffer spring. I'd recommend a WE GBB SVD. The gun itself fits your budget, but you'll need a bit more for the proper Russian optics to go with it. You can cheap out with Western styled optics but it just doesn't look right on such an iconic rifle.
  8. 1. because they have and continue to be the most innovative airsoft company 2. because Japan Swords and Firearms Act However, it's been revised so that only handguns can't have metal pressure bearing parts (slide, barrel, cylinder). Rifles are exempt which is why the newer TM releases like their M870 and M4 MWS are "full metal".
  9. CYMA M870 trishots are actually a whole lot more durable than they're worth. Around $100 for most models, but avoid the $40-50 ones as those are the economy all plastic versions. The problem is they're not very widely distributed. Even in HK only a few shops stock them.
  10. Welcome to 2007! See that black tube to the right of the cylinder in the 2nd picture? That's the nozzle and it goes forward and back like any regular nozzle. And when disassembling something for fun, make sure you are capable of putting it back together. If not, take pics during the tear down process so you have a map for yourself as to which part goes where. Or just go to YouTube for one of many instructional videos there.
  11. Milsim as a term is loosely used and by now has been so diluted that for some, the mere wearing of BDUs for games qualifies as milsim. The actual, hardcore milsim gameplay (if you can even call them "games") is desired by many but either lack the skills, funds, motivation, or discipline to actually participate in those events. So they make do with face value by merely looking the part as all that takes is researching the correct kit and paying for them. Actual honing of tactics as a simulation of standard military protocol is out the window. But that's not to say there's anything wrong with casual weekend skirmishes, it's just that it's really more appropriate to call them recreational sports, war games, or even LARP rather than milsim. I've tried milsim myself in the past but just didn't like it much with the lack of any real engagements (it was 1% shooting, 99% logistics).
  12. F=MA, do they not teach this in school anymore? A .30g bb traveling at 400fps will have the same energy as a .20g bb traveling at 488fps.
  13. What's stopping you from getting any old AEG barrel and modifying it to fit?
  14. Take any YouTube review with a grain of salt. Clean it then shoot it for yourself to see its actual potential for accuracy as well as finding out which shells work best for you. Use it long enough and you'll be able to gauge what is within its capacity of shooting and what isn't. Then there's always the prospect of upgrading it with a better barrel and even an r-hop.
  15. Haha! Shoots like my 2" Model 60 then. Blame those craptastic plastic tipped shells, a problem even with the older Win Guns. It holds the bbs with friction which it does so at irregular points so some shells will actually impart a spin on the bb even before it hits the hop up mound which messes with its trajectory. They made better shells like this one which has a more consistent o-ring for retention and pretty much copies Marushin's X-Cartridge, but needs modifying to fit (case length trim) the newer 715. http://cdn1.evike.com/images/large/gt-70x6.jpg Another option is to convert the plastic shells to hold multiple bbs for a snake shot/shotgun effect which compensates for its lack of accuracy. With the high power gun you still get decent power when loaded with 3-5 bbs. As far as other revolver brands go: Tanaka = best overall for skirmishing but new ones need modifying to shoot higher than .98J due to imposed Japanese restrictions. Marui = best for CQB. No frills, light weight, high capacity. Marushin = most realistic reloads but still good shooters (my personal favorite both for collecting and skirmishing) These are just in general as there are exceptions to the cases in all brands. Didn't bother listing dead brands or brands too cheap to mention as they're not really worth considering.
  16. I'm pretty sure they aren't compatible. The TM requires a plunger at the back of the chamber to seal the first bb so the rest in line don't come out the barrel. It's a fairly complex system which KWC tried to copy with removable shells but that's where reliability goes awry.
  17. Depends on the barrel length and if you're talking about the Python or Model 19. My 4" Combat Magnum was doing right around 230fps stock, but with a KM tight barrel and a harder valve o-ring is now doing a more respectable 280fps. Had I gotten a 6" it could be brought up to a little over 300fps, even more with Carom or Angs single shot shells, but you loose the 24 round capacity. The Pythons, on the other hand, shoot a bit harder straight out of the box, but the gas router is integral to the plastic side plate and can crack on green gas without reinforcement.
  18. "Skirmishable" is a subjective thing. Some will consider anything without a hicap as being unskirmishable. TM, is a bit underpowered stock, but is an absolute nail driver in CQB and 24 rounds on tap is hard to beat.
  19. The hammer spring is located and made differently from the older Win Guns and I can't say for sure how easy it is to downgrade or outright replace. Power down shells on the other hand, you just pop them in like you would a normal reload. Just don't keep the original shells on your person when playing so others can't accuse you of swapping shells mid game to cheat the chrono.
  20. There are far better revolvers out there, but aren't full metal and will cost you a 2nd hand car if you want it in full metal. But yes, the new 715 is leaps and bounds better than the older "Dan Wessons" that Win Gun makes.
  21. Power down shells simply have an insert at the back of the shells to throttle air flow. Punch out to make full power, or drill to larger size for something in between (tunable). Edit: Shooting in DA has a lower fps because the hammer is physically brought back at a shorter distance which decreases how much it opens the valve. But guns are usually chronoed at their highest energy potential for safety reasons.
  22. Dead motor, specifically commutator issues. But being new, it's more likely one of the wires soldered to the commutator being undone leading to the same effect of a busted commutator (from use) and is far easier to fix (resolder the dead wire).
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