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dragunov123

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About dragunov123

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    ASF Citizen

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    michigan
  • Interests
    sniping

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    A&K SVD (with 6.03 bore 650mm barrel tbb)
  1. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6235 ok im coming off of spring rifles and I have prolly 300$ to spend. I want an M4 with RIS. is this a good rifle? can I put a regular m4 stock on idk if I like the crane stock. does it come with rear site? any other advice or gun recomendations are welcome. keep in mine 300$ to spend on battery ammo and charger and gun
  2. well here is the problem... recently at an airsoft game a guy on the other team was not calling alot of shots. about half actually. his justification was I quote "for every shot that is not called I will not call a shot" hmm intresting only if everyone folowed those rules no one would call there shots. there is a diffrence between ignoring a slow moving flyer that grazes ur shoulder from 400ft away and being shot square in the chest from 55 feet away... AND THEN IGNORING IT!!!! and THEEEN LIGHTING ME UP WITH 300 ROUNDS AS IF I NEVER EVEN HIT HIM. so I have a plan its a simple equation rediculous fps + head shot = ticked off 26 year old who doesnt wanna play anymore cause I broke his face mask. I know this seams harsh but someone has to teach him a lesson and im the teams designated marksman so ill take care of the assasinasion;)
  3. when u say tapering u mean increasing the whole bore of the cylinder head or just making a concave entrance for the air cause mine came with that
  4. and also what if I could increase the bore of my cylinder head(the nozzle u could say) alowing the air to move through more easily. I can imagine this would just screw up my gun as the current bore prolly lines up with the buzking for a seamless seal... however is it possible and a good or bad idea?
  5. u r prolly right about my sears. they are suposidly pot metal and I concur but am not 100%positive(prolly 99.9%positive. but how many more pounds of presure would be added from an m150 to an m170... a few pounds or like a dozen pounds?
  6. sorry neo but I didnt make myself clear... that silver piece is like a piston guide that whole black rod is the spring giude. the entire piston slides over that silver peice its designed to do so. you guys did bring to my attention that it may decrease consistancy as there is now more complexity to they driving force behind my piston. but yh the piston fits over the spring guide completly normal. that little silver piece fits in the piston perfectly behind the spring right inside the piston that silver piece is removable. its almost a build in thrust ring in fact its almost the closest thing to a thrust ring there is other than actual thrust rings. good advice though I think ur right in that I shouldnt have another spring behind my spring.
  7. (second pic) I know I should just upgrade to an m170 spring but thats a bit much and this allows a slightly cheaper alternative that also giudes my piston better therfore giving me better performance and I also noticed a slightly quieter gun prolly from the piston traveling in a streighter path and not causing the spring to vibrate. the center giude prolly soaks up some vibration the way it is set up now too
  8. ok I added a week spring that I cut to about 4 inches in length behind a little washer/piston guide to increase spring tension and increaes the amount of time that the piston is being giuded by the piston guide. its the little silver piece. tell me what you think of this... will it damage my spring? will it add significant fps? note how compressed my m150 spring is in the second picture
  9. ok I have the A&K SVD which uses AEG springs... on the end of the spring guide(the end closest to the stock) there is a sort of "washer" only like 14mm long and it keeps my piston(when cocked) streight on the sears. nowww, what if I added another spring behind the "washer" type device of lesser strength then my m150 spring to shorten my main spring. and it would set the "washer" farther up the spring guide keeping my piston streighter for a longer period of time. This is a little invention ill call a "tensor spring". said tensor spring also shortens my main spring by say 10mms. is this bad for my gun? lets assume my sears are ok and my piston can definitly handle it as well as my cylinder... is this bad for my m150 spring? I know I should just buy an m170 but this way my "washer" or you could even call it a piston guide stay on the piston longer creating streighter path of entry into the cylinder. And this costs 12minutes of time steada 20$ for a good spring :P. Any opinions? keep in mind my main concern is increasing fps and guidance of the piston... my worry is that I will damage my m150 spring as it is almost completly compressed with this set up.
  10. um well im not very familiar with gas guns im leet with AEGs and have fabricated a half dozen spring rifle parts. however as the team gun tech im the only one leet enough to really tear into a gun. ive never worked on gas guns but my team is all begging me to try to upgrade the performance of their gas guns. specificly green gas. they want to know if they can convert their green gas pistol to shoot a lil hotter maybee even change the gas they use for it. but what else can I do to gas pistols that will increase their fps or maybee even find a way to make the gun more efficient and use less gas per shot without loosing velocity
  11. well im going to start with the piston and make it a tad longer...(I made it 5mm longer). and sears will be another project for another day. I want to upgrade my piston(to my custom longer one for less cylinder volume and stres on the sears and easayer bolt pull) and upgrade to a 650mm TBB. then sears I would go after.
  12. well I don't know alota about hop ups so id just make one that less consistant. and yh sears are a problem they wear pretty bad. on this gun especially for some reason. I think I wanna make a longer one. itll be easyer on the sears. but no one has answered the one important questoin... what is better material for my piston STEEL OR ALUMINUM?!?!?!?!?
  13. putting in a 650mm bravo steel 6.03 inner barrel. other than that nothing
  14. im making a custom piston on a lathe for my SVD. should I go with aluminum or steel. if I lengthen it bolt pull will be easyer but lower fps right? and if I shorten the piston bolt pull will be harder with more fps right? I already have 56000^3mm+ of air volume in my piston is that too much even for a 650mm barrel so should I lengthen my piston to make my air volume go down. the effect of which would be less air volume so I don't have such a strong vortex at the end of my barrel
  15. my cylinder is exactly 33mms in diameter. so what size o ring am I looking for????
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