Jump to content

ZopS

Member
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    %

Everything posted by ZopS

  1. The description should illustrate my current frustration, but here's the background. I've been working on a fun DMR to supplement my bolt action HPA rifle. It started out as a KJW 1911 in the x-factor carbine conversion body kit, and it quickly spiraled out of control. As of right now it has a 555mm laylax barrel, an extended 40 round TM mag tapped for HPA, and a slew of internal improvements to get proper compression out of it. Everything was working well for a few hours until I took it skirmishing and had to take out an entire squad that meandered into my killzone. 30 rounds of rapid fire later, and the slide seems to be coming all the way home after recoil, and then bouncing maybe half a centimeter back, making the next shot not fire correctly. I'm not sure if this is the fault of the spring or the fact that I was running low on air, but the recoil at 150 psi is substantial (similar to using a CO2 mag) and I'm worried that not even the action 160% spring I have coming from ehobby will fix the issue, pretty much ending this project where it stands. Are there any stronger springs than the action 160% short of a real 1911 recoil spring?
  2. It took me longer than I wanted to get around to it, but here's my proof of shenanigans. I kinda hate the ammo I shot, which is why I was shooting it (trying to get rid of it). Fps is slightly low because of the long silencer, which I had to use so as not to scare the neighbors. I'll be doing another one with higher fps later. The backstop I used for this wasn't quite up to it. Edit - the standing reading before the first shot doesn't count either; it's from am earlier batch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=iOUctiYQydU
  3. I just bought a KJW Mk I to drill and tap it for HPA, but the mags are too skinny to be tapped for 1/8 NPT threads like my regular sniper rifles. I thought about tapping it for 1/16 NPT, but realized that the fill valves look to be about that size. Does anybody know what the threading is on fill valves?
  4. Now I feel like a bit of a douchebag. My trip to the shop today revealed that the chrono they use isn't really effective for measuring velocities in excess of 750 fps. It pretty much refuses to display anything higher than 800, even when I changed the PSI all the way from 220 to 300. The only reason I'm not suspecting the striker spring on this one is because the gun was getting louder and louder, which I think is indicative of more air being released at the higher pressures. I have an F1 Chrony coming on Saturday as a holiday present from a good friend, and I'm pretty confident that those chronos are the be all end all for velocity claims. I'll repost when I have my new toy in hand and all set up. At the very least I've got a video of the current setup en route to youtube as I type this, and that setup's not going to change anytime soon. LeStath, your pistol story inspired me to finally take the plunge on converting a KJW Mk I into a semi-auto HPA sniper. I got a good deal on one today along with a 555mm laylax 6.03 barrel and a firefly hard bucking, and it shouldn't be hard to drill/tap because the fill port will act as a guide hole. I've spent way, WAY too long on this M700 project, so I'm glad to finally get a little variety on my workbench. I was thinking of using the money for the above on a MK43 so I could have a support style weapon...but my heart belongs to sniper rifles.
  5. To be honest, I'm not sure how it's working either. I'm heading out to get my tanks refilled tomorrow at the local paintball shop and then to AEX San Diego to pick up some christmas presents, so I can take some chrono station vids there and detail the setup. With regards to range, we seem to be pretty similar in what we can achieve. For the longest time I was a fan of the super heavyweight madbull bb's, but recently started testing the Bioval .27g BBB glass things at really high velocities. The results were pretty amazing. Unlike the other bb's, which had something of a lobbing effect even when dialed in, these things shoot like they follow a laser beam out of the barrel. Maybe it's because they're so much smoother/smaller diameter in a 6.01 barrel? Those Pearl bb's look amazing, but 12 bucks for a pack of eight? I'd break the bank just sighting it in! I've been wanting to get a hold of white (basically anything not black), smooth, heavy bb's for a long time, so if those ever come down in price you can bet I'll be one of the first in line. That hi-capa sounds like a beast! My TM Mk23 gets pretty good range with a KM extended inner barrel (250mm? not quite sure) and hi-flow valve, but if you could make a reliable semi-auto sniper, you'd pretty much be hitting the holy grail when it came to follow up shots. It's the only thing that I don't like about my M700 setup. I've been toying with the idea of tapping an old KJW Mk I and using it as a semi-auto sniper, but I ran into trouble when I was looking for reinforced parts, especially when it came to the striker spring. The gun even has space in the stock for a mini CO2/HPA tank already! Ending comments: your gun looks freaking sweet! I've always been leery of paint, but you nailed it on that one. Apparently we share an affinity for very large silencers too (although yours is much more artfully done than mine, which definitely required some epoxy). Just finished adapting this to my gun today:
  6. The weight isn't too bad, especially if you throw a muzzle device on the other end. Even with the tank and the reg installed, a stock AICS is heavier by a couple pounds. With the ninja tank and a TM Mac 10 silencer on the other end, you can hold it just forward of the magazine and be completely balanced, which is great. With this particular setup I usually wrap a dark shemagh around the tank area, so it both covers the tank bits and acts as a nice cheek riser that makes shooting surprisingly comfortable.
  7. It is, and that's actually very important. Some tanks have a piston/spring setup like the variable regulators we use to adjust PSI down to usable levels post-tank, but the Ninja regs are a shim-based system that's much more consistent, although not adjustable. I'm really happy with this setup, although I can imagine that doing this on an AICS would be...difficult I have no idea how you would accomplish that, but if you manage to do so my hat's off to you! As an aside, I'm taking the stock in this week to get evaluated for a carbon fiber and fiberglass mold. If it doesn't cost too much I think it'd look more elegant than this haphazardly created frankenstein thing, not to mention allow me to design it from the ground up to hold the tank in the stock and the regulator in the handguard.
  8. This is how I did it. Although it's not very artful, it's at the very least functional and comfortable. I'm looking to have the stock completely redone in carbon fiber with the stock skeletonized right out of the mold so it looks better and has a more aesthetically attractive way of mounting it.
  9. Originally I had the tank clamped to the right side of the stock (I shoot lefty) with hose clamps, but this was cumbersome and had to be covered with a shemagh to even be a viable solution. Recently I got the idea to hollow out the center portion of the stock to skeletonize it, and place the tank in the resulting space. I finished hollowing the stock with my dremel today and will be reinforcing the remaining bits with carbon fiber wrap this weekend to make sure nothing bends. Pics for sure when it's done!
  10. Thanks for all the input! I went ahead and started using one of the long mags in my KJW M700 and I'm very happy with it. After replacing the strike plate with the King Arms one and slowly working up the PSI to look for swelling, I'm happy to say there wasn't any at up to 250 PSI (calipers around the mag proved this). On the topic of 1000 fps, my rifle easily shoots that at around 220 PSI. Even though a lot of the posts on this forum say that high pressure low volume is the way to go for consistency, I run my rifle off of a 13 ci. HPA tank situated in the stock, so I run low pressure high volume. I can usually get 550 fps at 85 PSI, which is the limit at my local fields and lets me get more shots out of my rig than I would otherwise. Key parts include: King Arms striker spring King Arms bucking EDGI (PCT) 629mm 6.01mm barrel Fun fact is that you can get a sonic boom at around 1150 fps. With a madbull amplifier, this sounds AMAZING. Ear protection definitely recommended though, it's basically a gunshot.
  11. Sorry to revive a slightly older topic, but is there anywhere that still sells the tango type? I never use my rifle without either a loudener or a silencer on the end, and the fluted type that ehobby still stocks doesn't have the threads. I've looked everywhere I can imagine (asgi, evike, redwolf, ehobby, aex, wgc, uncomany, dentrinity, ebay) and nobody seems to have them anymore.
  12. I've posted this in some local forums, but with such a specific question (and much larger community) I thought I might have better luck here. I've been using HPA on my KJW M700 for a while now, and the stock mag has really impressed me with its resilience to very high pressures. When I first started to use it I followed the recommendations of snipers who came before me, who said not to use it with more than 120 psi. Ever. Accidents (failed regulator o-rings) and pressure testing have told me that the mag is actually capable of shooting for extended periods of time at up to 210 psi. While you could NEVER use this kind of pressure for airsoft since field legal speeds are reached at 90 psi, it's great as a coyote repellent and generally fun gun when it's shooting that hot. More to the point though, all of these tests have been done on the stock KJW short mag which later had a steel impact plate added. This design has very thick magazine walls and really robust valves, but has its limits for field skirmishability. When you have 20 some odd opfor coming at you across the local field's earthen dam, 10 rounds doesn't cut it. The Tanaka high-cap mag holds 29 rounds, which is much better for skirmishability, but since it's a Tanaka I have no idea whether the design can handle extremely high pressures. I want to be able to use this one magazine for both field play and (ridiculously) high PSI shooting, which led me to look at upgrades for the mag. Besides the knock arm, plunger and impact plate, there was one thing that caught my eye. King Arms makes a blue CNC magazine body that appears to replace the upper portion of the mag internals, but I have the following questions about it: 1) Is it even necessary? The stock mag is aluminum and this is also aluminum. Unless it's much higher quality aluminum, I'm failing to see a justification for the $$$ price tag. 2) Would it provide the extra resilience I need? I'm not sure if this is even the part of the mag that holds the gas reservoir. 3) What PSI levels have these mags been used with successfully? All advice is greatly appreciated, especially since these parts cost an arm and a leg.
  13. Tokyo Marui, although I'm using the Y&P mags because they have less of a tendency to leak and they're only 20 bucks.
  14. HFC 134a would be enough to slow it down, if you can get your hands on it in the US. If that's too much of a hassle, I saw a new "low power bolt assembly"on Evike the other day for about 30-40 bucks. That should let you use whatever gas you want without power issues. It's not a very complicated install, just a drop in replacement.
  15. I've been looking at high flow valves on Hong Kong sites (the last place on earth to have them) for my Mk.23, and they have the Firefly, KM TN and First Factory valves. I have no idea if they're at all different from each other, and at a price difference of only a couple bucks I couldn't garner much from that either. The only thing that seemed to differentiate them was that the FF valve came with three steel ball bearings that "improve gasification by putting the metal balls in the gas compartment of the magazine." ...? I know and love firefly's hopup buckings, KM's inner barrels and First Factory's sniper rifle parts, so they all have a history of quality in my book. Does anybody know differently?
  16. Recently I was fortunate enough to buy an MK23 on the WTS forum, and in my excitement I headed over to the pinned topic on this wonderful handgun for information on upgrades and silencing modifications. Unfortunately, that thread was created around the 2008/9 mark, and many of the parts available then (and even the gun itself through regular retail channels) are no longer made or are perpetually out of stock. Since I wouldn't expect the people originally on that thread to respond to it three years later, I pose the following questions: 1) Where is one to find a high flow valve these days? 2) " " a reinforced recoil guide rod (for durability)? 3) Does installing a 303mm VSR-10 G-spec barrel affect the silencer's ability to dampen the sound of the muzzle report, and does it even fit with the stock Marui silencer? 4) Any tips on what kind of place to look for that might be able to make an aluminum slide and hop up piece for this? Plastic is fine for aesthetics, but I intend to use this heavily as a field weapon and it will go through some hard times. I hear the stock hop up piece...thing...has a tendency to bend, too. 5) Somebody on the original thread advised putting weather sealant in the hammer area to reduce the sound of the hammer striking. On this gun, is the hammer only aesthetic (eg. does the hammer striking have anything to do with how much gas is released/releasing the gas at all)? Also, is this the stuff that was being talked about?
×
×
  • Create New...