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nllub

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About nllub

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 05/17/1993

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Airsoft, paintball, video games, guitar, real steal shooting, ARMY

Previous Fields

  • SOA Name
    Uncle_Rico
  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    JG m4 JG sig 552 commando VFC Daniel Defense Vickers m4 Echo 1 p90 Echo 1 m28 UTG mk96 UTG m3 shotgun WE g36c WE m4 G&P WOC challenge kit sr-15 KJW 1911 meu KJW 1911 tactical KWA HK USP Custom Built m4 aeg
  1. I have one of those stocks. They're pretty nice. But there are a couple problems with what you're trying to do. The opening on the ace stock is a full circle, so there is no room for the traditional buffer tube tracks. The first thing you'd have to do is remove all that extra material from the buffer tube so, when you're done, it's perfectly round. Then you will have to cut new grooves into the buffer tube so the ace stock can lock in place. The other problem is that the opening on the ace stock is a few millimeters wider than an original buffer tube. In order to get a nice fit, you'd then have to wrap the buffer tube to make it a little thicker. If you want pics of anything, let me know.
  2. http://www.blowbackarmory.net/product_p/ratech_npas2.htm http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=34200
  3. WE makes a threaded 1911 barrel for $20-25. Suppressor on a 1911 isn't a very good idea though. The way the 1911 barrel is designed, it doesn't like barrel attachments. Take your pistol and slowly pull the slide back. Look at how the outer barrel moves. The slide pulls the barrel back a little and then it drops down a bit. Adding a suppressor to your barrel adds extra weight that the slide literally has to pull back with each shot. This setup may work for a little while, but it will increase wear tremendously. It happened to my kjw 1911 and the attachment I was using was about 4 inches, made out of plastic, and filled with cotton balls. Very light, but it still screwed up my gun. What happens is the slide jams on the barrel as it cycles back, meaning you will have to manually cycle the slide the rest of the way.
  4. What? If you're looking for pros and cons between the ptw, ctw, and dtw rifles, there's already plenty of information online. Most people will tell you that none of those are worth a dam, though. You should provide a little more information.
  5. http://clandestineairsoft.com/nozzles-c-1_...zzle-p-328.html http://clandestineairsoft.com/nozzles-c-1_...zzle-p-351.html Slightly more expensive, but you won't have to pay/wait for shipping from hk. I've used the core nozzles on several guns and never had a problem with them.
  6. The VFC 416 is a hot item. Go with that. It'll be nicer than the KWA, also.
  7. Is it a brand new gun? 1. Usually a bucking problem. Remove the bucking and clean it, then reassemble. If problem persists, add a very very small amount of silicone oil to the mouth of the bucking (the part where the bb enters). If it still doesn't work, you may need a new bucking. 2. Sounds like your mag catch is worn down. Take it out and check to see if it is worn or not. If it's not, could be a mag issue. 3. In your picture, see that small piece in the top center of the ejection port? That is the part that is responsible for opening the dust cover. What you don't see is that it is actually a long plastic arm that is screwed into the charging handle. The plastic piece may be either worn down or loose. It may also be broken/completely disconnected, which would explain why the fake bolt isn't moving forward. You'd have to take apart and look inside the upper receiver to diagnose this further.
  8. At first glance, the madbull may seem like a good little piece. The bb retaining oring and the adjuster wheel are nice upgrades over a stock hop up chamber. However, you will have nothing but problems with it. Feeding issues, bucking compatibility, fitment into the receiver. Those are common issues with the madbull hop up unit. I have one and I'm not a fan of it. You'd be better off getting a simple hop up from a well know manufacturer.
  9. YES! Sorry, but you hit the nail on the head! There is no need to buy a new gearbox because this is fairly easy to fix. I have tried the nail and gorilla glue and gorilla glue is not strong enough (imagine that....). Crazy glue or loctite will work better. Also, I considered soldering it back in, as it seems like it would hold it in there very well. I never got around to it though because I used loctite and it's holding up just fine. BUT, if you do feel the need to buy a new one, JG shells are pretty cheap. http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/Airsoft-JG-V...OEM-p/75116.htm Coincidentally, the website I got my JG shell doesn't sell them anymore. The for sale section here usually has some good deals, too.
  10. Is your trigger trolley post broken? This little metal piece is built into the gearbox and it is what stops the trolley from going back too far, not allowing the actual trigger to engage it. The fact that you're saying "full auto works, but once I switch to semi, it stops" makes me think this is your problem.
  11. Usually the clicking you hear is from a battery that is too weak to turn the motor. Depending on how long it has been sitting, the trigger contacts may be corroded, too. If you can, try a newer or more powerful battery. For the mp5, are you sure there wasn't a bb left in the chamber from before storage? If there isn't, then the bucking may be messed up, or it could be something in the gearbox that's not working the way it should. It would help if you could make a short shooting video. Any way you could narrow the source of the muffling sound to the hopup or the gearbox?
  12. Some Lonex and Magic Box parts are the same price. For some, Magic Box is a little more. Have you checked Clandestineairsoft? That guy has great stuff for extremely cheap. I think most people will suggest lonex because their good reputation grew so fast. Magic Box has been around for a while and have made some hit or miss things in the past. I don't have anything bad to say about either brand except that the Magic Box aluminum piston head comes loose easily, but that's also easily fixed. The reason I chose magic box parts was because everyone was using lonex and I wanted to try something different. If I had to choose again, I'd go lonex just because it would be something new. But that's my personal preference. You're doing a scratch build? That's the same thing I'm doing, which is why I'm using the Magic Box parts. If you have any weird questions about parts fitment or compatibility, pm me since I've been through a lot building my gun.
  13. Check the for sale section here. I think there are a couple for sale with extra mags and things.
  14. Parts can always be made to work together, sometimes it's just a matter of modifying and tweaking them. If you have cheap parts that don't seal well, there are always mods you can do to make them seal better. If you're in a position where you need to buy new parts, it'll be beneficial to buy compression parts that are all the same brand. If you already have the parts, then you should try sealing them yourself with teflon tape and other sealants. You asked about Magic Box? In one of my gearboxes, I have a Magic Box cylinder, cylinder head, piston head, and a Core air nozzle. The gun isn't finished being built yet so I don't have any chrono results, but from compression testing, it appears to be a 100% seal. Aside from that, I also like the quality of Magic Box parts. They are very well made.
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