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No_6

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About No_6

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    Seattle
  1. The pistol has been sitting in storage for a long time. Over a year. I took it out recently, and now I can only get 3 shots out of one magazine before it blows out the rest of the gas, another magazine blows out on the first shot, and the third magazine is really weird. Sometimes it has a slow leak as soon as it fed into the pistol, but won't fire. Then if you take the magazine out and re-seat it, there is no slow leak, but blows the full gas charge on the first shot. I've used propane in the gun, added a drop of 10w silicon oil ever 4 magazines or so, and left a little gas in the magazines before I stored it. The magazines don't leak, and take a charge well, and the release valves don't seem to stick. I've lubed everything up, but still doing the same thing. The only other thing I can think of is the fact I replaced both the recoil and hammer springs with 160% springs. So is this a magazine issue, or a gun issue? Put the stock springs back in?
  2. I can understand that. There's a German video review that explains the reason for the gap. When you fire the gun, the hammer drops all the way down in order to release the gas. I'm not sure why they did it this way. :/
  3. I just got this last week, and I have to say I'm really impressed. I've handled and fired a RS Colt, this replica really brings back that experience. It is extremely well balanced, and the fit and finish of the metal is excellent. The action is smooth and very close to the RS. The ejection rod and the loading port also work exactly like the RS. The sites are smaller than RS, and can be hard to see and are not adjustable, but are still quite usable. The fake shells also look really good, and the rounds seat well, though 2 of the 6 were too tight. I've found that it is much MUCH quicker to reload by leaving the shells in place and puting the rounds in through the front of the cylinder, where 3 of the 6 are visible; because unlile a modern revolver replica, you have to eject and replace the shells one at a time. The only thing that lets it down are the plastic hand grips that are a smooth plastic; they're well-shaped, but if you're playing on a hot day and you have sweaty hands its going to get very slippery. Also, the lack of hop-up will limit the skirmishing range... which is a problem, because it chronos hot, averaging 370FPS with .20s. On the upsite, the CO2 cartridge seems to last forever. On the other hand, the accuracy at 20' seems pretty good so far. I plan on doing a test at 30' when I have time. If anyone is interestsed, I'll post the results.
  4. Attached a pic of the m4 magazine clamps. They're the same as these: http://www.evike.com/products/30122/ Shipping would probably be around $8 USPS with tracking and delivery confirmation.
  5. 3rd Gen JG SL8, test fired once, never fielded. Missing bipod, otherwise complete. $110 OBO+shipping. 9.11 36" Gun bag: $15 C.43 MP5 Gun Guard support--comes with guard, foregrip, and outer barrel, new and unused, will ship in original box: $12 There are 5 of those M4 magazine clamps, even though only one is in the picture. $5 each, or $20 for all 5. The AK magazine clamps: $3 each or $5 for both. Not pictured: Box of 5 King Arms M1A1 110rd magazines, new in box.: $25 for all Everything else, make an offer. Ships from Seattle. Let me know if you want more more pictures or a detailed description.
  6. Last gen. JG SL-8, test fired once, never fielded. Just been sitting under closet gathering dust. Missing the bipod (I took it off and lost it), but otherwise it is in like new condition. Incudes spacing plates for buttstock, short magazine. Will throw in a unjamming/cleaning rod if you need one. $140 OBO. Gun bag is in very good condition. $30. Large Pouches- $12/ea Triple M4 Magazine pouch-$8 2 smaller ACU pouches: $5/ea All pouches for $32 Shipping for the SL8 - $24 USPS w/delivery confirmation Shipping for gun bag - $12 USPS w/delivery confirmation Shipping for pouches - $5 USPS w/delivery confirmation I'll also combine shipping costs if you buy multiple items
  7. Thanks! Should have known you would know. ;) Ordered!
  8. I've only found one place online that sells them... some outfit in England called Airsoftworld.net. And they only accept wire transfers, which seems fishy.
  9. I have a soft spot for the P90 due to Stargate SG-1, and because the Echo-1 P90TR is the first airsoft gun I bought. Well, I took advantage of ASGI's perpetual 20% and bought the Classic Army P90 with integrated red dot. Got it yesterday and... I love it. It came with the gun, instruction manual an unjamming rod, a single hi-cap magazine, and the tool to adjust the integrated red-dot sight. The casting is much cleaner, and the engraved markings (90 CAL 5.7x28mm on the left and Classic Army made in Hong Kong on the right) are very crisp. Naturally, there are no FN markings which is too bad, but clean is better than poor markings IMO. The right side has a short weaver rail for accessories, and there are iron sights to either side of the red dot--this is helpful for reasons described later. I may add a dab of white paint to make the forward post more visible. The body is nicely textured and pretty solid ABS, though it is slightly shinier than the Echo-1 but not distractingly so; in fact, the finish looks a little more accurate to the pictures of the RS I've seen. The casting of the plastic is excellent, with the same sharp detail as the metal parts. The flash hider and outer barrel more accurately reflect the RS than the Echo-90; the flash hider is about 2/3 orange and is well made, with no obvious casting marks. Lastly, even though I have a green laser and red-dot on the Echo-1, the CA is noticeably heavier along its entire length with less flex in the body, and as a result feels significantly more solid. Two gripes, one minor and the other not-so minor. Firstly, the butt-plate is finicky to take off/put on and feels hollow and cheap in comparison to the rest of the gun, while the Echo-1 comes off and on no problem, feels more sturdy, and has a rubberized coating. So make a wild guess which butt plate is now on the CA? Secondly, the red dot. *sigh* It isn't so much a dot as a 6 MOA sqiggle. It is functional, but it only has 2 brightness settings: bright and blinding. Even when on setting one, under medium indoor-lighting there is noticeable ghosting at the compass points. In the high setting, not only is there ghosting, it is bright enough to cast rays and be uncomfortable to look at. So I would say that the sight is usable for engagements under 70 feet, but past that, you're not going to see much past that big red glob. It is, without question, the worst red-dot I've seen. I hope to get a shooting test done within a week or so. Haven't had the time. So if anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post up results.
  10. My friends don't really like it when I shoot them with a real gun. All the screaming and bleeding gets distracting. p.s. a GBB WA2000 is 2nd on the list.
  11. Exactly. No way am I going to pay $420 for a metal body kit, considering a real revolver can be had for that price. Not a Python (by a long way), but some decent kit.
  12. I want to see some full metal, high-quality, non-tacticool revolvers. Colt Python and the like. Some single action army revolvers.
  13. hm... interesting thread. As has been pointed out, quality varies a great deal from brand to brand and even within a particular brand. Finding a local brick and mortar that carries a wide range is a good idea, failing that, taking a look at the guns people bring to games. I've found that people are pretty nice about sharing. That way you can see and touch for yourself. That said, I definitely have my preferences. For grips, I prefer a nylon-reinforced polymer. They have a distinctly different texture from a normal plastic--for example, the Magpul AFG. It costs almost 60% more than the PTS version and is nearly identical in terms of dimensions, but I HATE the PTS version due to the subtle difference in texture, not that it is 'bad.' The PTS version is more than sufficient for airsoft, but I just don't like the way it feels. On the other hand, I picked up the Evike Matrix nylon-fiber body G36C, and hated it. I prefer the ABS plastic on my JG G36K. Then there's my JG HK416. Not the sturdiest plastic body, but it is sturdy enough. It is very light, which is nice considering how much other crap I've got on/in the gun. They make a metal body for it, but chances are it's pot metal and will add little other than weight.... but then again, what can you expect for $45? A light weight, high-quality CNC aluminum body would cost at least twice as much as that--and in the end, wouldn't make the gun shoot any straighter. One area I think cheap plastic really shows its weakness is in the magwell, and though the plastic isn't the thickest, the magwell has decent stiffness so I don't worry about it cracking. It probably will eventually, but no time soon, and it's cheap so who cares? I did replace the stock pistol grip with a G&P nylon fiber unit with a vented motor plate that was on sale for $8--and that is the single best mod I made (the second would be the piece of electrical tape I used to stop the handguard from wiggling). So even though this is a cheap plastic gun, it is my primary. I actually have a full metal CYMA MP5A4 that I added the Swordfish kit to, and yes, it is heavier than hell. Still like it, though. Hmm... what else... I have a WE SCAR GBBR, and the polymer body is fantastic. Really nice feel, very nicely molded with limited flashing. I wish all polymer bodies were as nice as this. But then again, I don't have any really expensive guns, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. On the other hand, my Dboys SCAR-H came with some sloppy seams, so I took half an hour and trimmed them down with an exact-o blade. On the positive side, the texture is good, and it is sturdier than the 416, with good coloring. So even though it isn't as good as the WE, I still prefer it over the JG plastic, but it doesn't add any functional advantages. My Dboys AKS-74 (RK-03) was dirt cheap, and looked it; and this is an "all" metal/wood gun. It kinda rattles, and the furniture wiggles around a bit. The wood is very light and soft. Cheap, cheap cheap! As has been stated, you get what you pay for... but that said, I REALLY like this gun. Sure it looks crappy OOTB, but I stripped the paint, blued everything I could, and refinished the wood ($10 in supplies), and you'd be amazed at the compliments I get. Oh, and it shoots GREAT. So... don't know if that answers your questions at all, but there you go. Hope it helps.
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