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AchilliesWar

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About AchilliesWar

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 11/18/1983

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    http://
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  • Yahoo
    ryuwildfire69@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    nebraska
  • Interests
    Airsoft, SCUBA, Computers, the great outdoors, cars, Harleys.

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Tanaka m24 maruzen l96, UTG l96, Tm s system, ICS/tm mp5, We hicappa, we wilson combat, Top Tech 416, G&P woc, CA m16
  1. Alright I said it in the beginning and I'll say it again. I am keeping all info on my rifle here so its easier to find for other people. I've had people call this thread the definitive guide to the Tanaka 700 series and that's why I keep reviving it. Anyway, so what have I done now to it now? Well the first thing I did was replace the Nineball bucking that was mucked up. This is probably one of the worst and best demonstrations of things I preach. I knew it was getting a little funny and had a spare, yet I neglected to replace it before OP Yellow jacket. During the OP it started to hook the round left every other shot. I spent my day cursing myself for this and occasionally trying to guess when it would do it. Eventually I gave up on guessing when it would do it and just shot, observed and reloaded and shot again as soon as I saw it start to hook. I'm glad I did this, because that game I got my longest confirmed hit because I simply knew what my bb's should do, and stopped trying to guess when a random event would happen. However at the same time I know how many shots I missed because of this and still feel like I let the Tan team down that day. Anyway picture of the old bucking. The next thing I did was I purchased two QD scope mounts from Moses as well as a clone Leupold Mark 4 4X10 scope. This scope is nitrogen filled and has a working parallax adjustment knob. One thing that worked out almost perfectly were the scope mounts. My rail was about 13 deg. canted to left and so were the scope mounts. So by mounting them reversed it made my scope mount inline and level with the barrel. Then I took the rail off and machined it so that its -15 degrees on the front. What this does is make is so that at 100ft, the bb will impact at 1 3/4 mils up. Then at about 210 ft the bb will hit back on the cross hairs. Is this a little overkill? Yep, however this is still my favorite position to play, so I have no problem going a little nuts. And not to sound arrogant, but I believe it is because of all the little things I do to this rifle, as well as how much I shoot it, are the things that allow me to reach out so much further than other people with bolt actions. After that I took some foam and camo gorilla tape and made two cheek pads. One it taped to the rifle and the other half pad is taped to the Pantac Multicam butt-stock pad. This fixed my cheek weld problem where when I brought the rifle up to shoot, my eye would not be inline with the scope. I have also done some mods/tweaks to the HPA system after using it on the Polar Star that will keep almost all FPS variations to nearly nothing. I don't know if I posted this either but I also put on a RS quick folding Harris tilting bi-pod. I love this bi-pod and it is more than durable and well built. Its so easy to adjust the preload on the tilt and is nice to know that when I use it as a front grip while standing I don't have to worry about it breaking. Keep an eye out because I'm not done with this thing yet. I still am going to step up to a 30rd mag, and mount an anit-cant on my scope. After that I will either mount it in a A-4 stock (RS) or keep the M24 stock and glass bed the receiver. As always if you have any questions just ask.
  2. I'm gonna say this and try to be done so we don't beat a dead horse. 1st. Yes it has been nine months, however rck is one of those rare people that instead of instantly blaming someone or assuming wrong on the other part, he's gives people the benefit of the doubt. 2nd. He is also one of those people that doesn't rip into a rifle unless he feels comfortable with it. Unlike the person who mutilated the gearbox. 3rd. He's not trying to get anything out of this, just trying to warn others from being ripped off. 4th. I've been on here for awhile, although my post count is not that high due to the fact that I mostly stick to the Snipers forum. 5th. Reaper does not have a clean history. 6th You guys don't want to believe him, fine. Just don't come crying to us if you buy something from him and get worked over. 7th and Last. I'm also waiting for their response. Kinda funny they haven't chimed in.............................
  3. First off, sorry man that I failed to email you those pics, the kids and I went to pick up more Halloween costume parts. So sorry. Second Rck is a good honest person and I am the person that ripped into this thing. So any crap about him wanting a refund or making this up is also an attack on me. If anyone doubts my tech skills, look in the Tanaka forum for my M24 build. This is hands down the WORST airsoft rifle I have ever torn down. Its complete crap and personally I don't care who did the work, they should NOT be touching gearboxes, let alone charging people for the "work" they do. You can see how the back of the gearbox is cut off, resulting in the spring guide angling up, which is why the inside of the gear box and top or the piston were mutilated with a dremel (or at least that's why I think they did it). The outer barrel is not installed correctly, the inner barrel is bent horribly, terrible shim job, the relief cuts on the gearbox for the cylinder are done wrong resulting in the cylinder having free play, the pinion gear is so loose I can pull it off the motor with no effort and I'm sure I'm forgetting things. Like I said, whoever did this needs to learn how to modify gearboxes properly or quit touching them.
  4. My PolarStar EPAR, only got here about an hour ago.
  5. Let me know when these are available and I'll grab one and throw it in the Tanaka and do comparison to the Nineball.
  6. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can't sell it!!! You'll regret it bud. He is a good seller, Bought my EDGI barrel from him. Whoever buys this better take care of it or I'm coming after them.
  7. No, that is for use with the stock hop up not our conversion kits. One other thing you may need to do also is shim your king arms chamber inside the chrome chamber, mine made the 2ROY chamber sit low which made my nozzle sit to high in the bucking.
  8. Hmmm, what version of kit do you have? 2roy, King Arms, Spartan and what bucking? Just curious. First, put some grease and apply it to the nozzle, then LIGHTLY push the bolt forward to where it just starts touch the bucking (not all the way) then pull it out and examine the nozzle and bucking/chamber to see where its touching. This is about the only way to see where your interference fit issue is happening. Second, take your nozzle tool, separate the two parts of the bolt and tap the nozzle with the supplied tool and make sure its fully seated and straight. Third, with the bolt disassembled and with rubber piece removed, polish it just be careful not to make a gouge in the metal (yes you can hurt it with just a polishing tip or polishing compound). After that, see what you get and make sure to fully clean the bolt when you're done. Dawn concentrated dish soap does wonders.(also good for cleaning buckings) I am VERY hesitant to advise you to shorten the nozzle, cause you can take metal away, but you can't put it back. Let me know how it works out, and if you still have a problem.
  9. I honestly don't know if I agree with that. I really got into the heavy weight hype and used .36 straights (non coated) . 40 madbull, and .40 bioval. And I've gone back to .29 SGM. My Tanaka loves them and has very good long range accuracy with them and much better than the heavy weights. I honestly wonder if something different happens with HPA vs spring (although bot are air, HPA has the moisture removed) or its just a difference in quality. note: I'm not disrespecting you, I actually have read quite of your posts and actually agree with most of your views.
  10. You should check out Plisken's build on ASR. Its mostly Raven parts and he really likes it.
  11. Correct, the The king arms copied the 2ROY, the Spartan copied the King Arms. I'm personally am not happy with the QC control on the spartan, that's why I put in the 2Roy. However the 2Roy kit is no longer made and I believe neither is the King Arms. With any of the kits, you should make a new nub, focusing on eliminating any free play with the nub inside the housing. The power pack is great, HOWEVER, THROW THE SPRING AWAY!!!! It is way to strong, plus, its VERY inconsistent. The only thing that POS spring does it wear down parts excessively fast. So stick with with your stock one. Green Gas and Propane have enough problems with inconsistency, that spring only adds to it. As far as more, yeah there's a lot more, most are small things that are usually forgotten. I will say, these answers were right in my build thread, so you really should read that. Their are tons of pics, suggestions and videos to help you. Good luck.
  12. Alright today I went out to tune the rifle to the new ammo, .29 SGM's, and to finally do some long range shooting. At this point, its coming down to fine tuning, tweaking, and all the small forgotten details. This is a step that I personally believe is simply overlooked or just forgotten. I will say that a lip on the airseal part of the bucking was damaged from a crappy bioval .40, so that is getting replaced with another nineball bucking. So I actually lowered my fps to 538fps due to the simple fact that this ammo enjoys a slightly lower FPS and really shows that BB weight, CAN'T beat quality ammo. I really don't know why I ever went away from SGM's, they simply are the best bb's I have ever used. I really think I spent more time chasing "ghost problems" with the rifle that were simply caused by the craptastic bioval .40. The reduction in variances simply beat any argument against the price. I am planning on stocking up on them come Sunday just because I have yet to see better. I also took away a lot of hop up and have an amazing flat trajectory. The bbs raise only about 1 1/2 ft and fall so that at 8o yards POA is POI. So now onto the pics. All shooting was done, kneeling (due to my swivel bi-pod not getting here yet) with the crappy scope (replacement is on its way). It does look like I'm way above the target, however in the kneeling position, I'm actually level with it. Plus I'm standing about six feet back up on a little rise by the road. Shooting position View from behind the target, with me standing on a retaining wall brick. Final hit box with my hand covering one hit (sorry), it was there for size reference. 9/10 hits at 80 YARDS!!! And that's kneeling!!! The reason there is no video with this post is because I am saving that for my final video. That will be with the new scope, bi-pod, laying prone to eliminate any variances from me, just showing the rifles capability. I am giving you guys the chance now to put how you want me to do that video. It will be done at 80, 90 and yes, 100 yards. Do you want a two cam video? For instance one done behind me shooting, with one a few feet in front of the target showing the hits ect. This is your chance to say how you want that final video done, the only thing I can't do, is fire it over a chrono, due to me not owning one, I have just been borrowing one from a hell of good player. I will say this too, this true to me at least, in bolt action rifles, tighter tolerances, smaller barrels with larger bb's works for this. This is a 6.01mm barrel with a 5.97-5.98mm projectile with VERY little hop up. I hate it when people say "this is the best part". No its more this combo of parts, with this type of airsoft rifle, firing this projectile work the best. It simply is a matter of finding the right combo for your application.
  13. Plus it took me 30 seconds to find more than four threads on this exact topic, none of them are even more than 3 months old.
  14. Basically, the I never had the stock barrel, due to mine had been modded previously before I owned it. For barrels, if you want the 650mm barrel, I you need the silencer adapter kit when using the stock outer barrel. But, the 2roy/KA/Spartan kit does move the barrel back a bit. If you end up going with the Heavy barrel set (outer) from G&G a 650mm inner barrel WILL NOT FIT! The only option if you want to run a 650mm barrel with one of those is go with the Tango type (non fluted) and run a separate new muzzle brake/flash hider.
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