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Everything posted by deaconque

  1. Price drop on a the SVD and BAR10! Come and get em!
  2. Bump, I'll be listing some more items very soon.
  3. Bump it up. Come on guys, help me build my AR15
  4. Bump. Buyers please check your paypal accounts for tracking info.
  5. Rules: -Paypal only -I will ship USPS Priority and tracking will be available on Paypal -Shipping is not included in prices but will be done in USPS flat rate boxes to keep things as cheap as possible (with the exception of the two sniper rifles, I'll have to quote you on those since they can't really be broken down for shipping) -I won't be holding items as I need to get them out as soon as possible -Guns do not come with batteries -No trades Proof pic- First is my BAR 10. Has been Kryloned tan in kind of an ATACs fashion. It has some scratches here and there from use but it adds to the character and none of them are big enough to compromise function. Mods done include TDC, Action Army Zero Trigger and piston, M145 spring, Rhop and M nub, electrical tape barrel spacers, threaded muzzle adapter, and the stock has been foam filled. The barrel is still the stock brass barrel but is has given very good performance so far. I have gotten confirmed hits at 240 ft. with .25s and I lost track of my .40s in flight so I could never get a definitive maximum range. Comes with the scope, bipod, anearly full bottle of Madbull .43's, and three magazines. Prices is $175 +shipping (send me your zip code and I'll quote you on shipping) Sold Next is an A&K SVD AEG. This one is nearly stock. I corrected AOE and reshimmed it but the shimming could stand to be redone, still better than factory though. It has a frankentorque motor built out of a SHS high torque and Chaoli motors. I may have upgraded other internal parts but I can't remember. Does not have the cheek pad. Comes with two magazines. Sold The P90 terminator is next. This one has been thoroughly upgraded but is not quite complete. I have rebuilt the gearbox using New Gen SHS internals. It has SHS 13:1 gears with a JG bevel gear and a Lonex Speed motor. I have also upgraded the wiring to 16awg teflon wire with a deans connector. Doesn't have a mosfet yet though. Also has a Madbull blue bucking and a 363mm Madbull 6.03 barrel inside the mock suppressor. The body has been filled with foam to help with some of the gearbox noise. That plus the reshim job makes this gun sound very good at 30rps. The suppressor and the AFG have been painted black (originally tan) and show a little wear through to the tan. I have also modified an M4 sling attachment to be attached to the front rail and made a rear sling attachment out of some black nylon and a keyring. This gun comes with the red dot, AFG, a 3000mah 11.1v lipo (you'll need a battery bag), and the box mag with the short JG high cap and 2 P90 midcaps. Price is $200 Showing the wear on the AFG and suppressor. Just paint coming off, no damage. A couple minor scratches on the JG short mag. Also, I removed the trap door on top of this mag to easier facilitate loading of the drum mag. It won't be able to be used on a normal M4 anymore. Adding my WE M&P. Has a little wear (as shown) but runs amazingly. I can consistently get 2 mags worth of shots out of one fill of gas. Range and accuracy is pretty good out to about 150'. The grip has been heavily stippled and grips to gloves like velcro during shooting. The barrel has also been polished but could use a touch up with a polishing wheel to make it mirror like. Comes with the medium and large black backstraps, all 3 pink backstraps, and 2 magazines (one has been sealed with blue RTV). Also includes the original box. Does not have the burst fire problem that some M&Ps suffer from. $80 Thanks for looking
  6. Bringing this back from the dead for an update. I removed the zero hammer from my G17 and reinstalled the stock hammer and that almost fixed my issue completely. I believe the valve knocker on the zero hammer was hitting the output valve and holding it open. My gun now cycles although I still have the issue of the AIP blowback housing and nozzle sitting slightly higher in the slide than the stock unit so I'm losing a little gas pressure there.
  7. Don't count WE out. I know of many people that have run their WEs for thousands of rounds on stock internals with no issue whatsoever. Most of the issues have come from user error, improper/no maintenance, lack of lube, etc. Also, upgrade parts are cheaper for the WE platform. They also accept many real steel externals since it's very near a 1:1 replica.
  8. Did you shim via the bevel to pinion method? If not, that would definitely cause unnecessary stress and wear like you are describing.
  9. I could be wrong but I believe the 417 uses an enlarged buffer tube. I am unsure whether RS .223 buffer tubes differ from .308s but if they do you might look at getting a real steel stock. Again I could be completely wrong on this as I am only going off of memory.
  10. I have one of those as well. It runs well but I can't find any more in stock anywhere.
  11. Your second link is the way to go. The nano techs are great lipos,
  12. Nope no good. I was going to shim the bushing up like I did with my P226 mags but the bushing is designed differently and doesn't allow shimming.
  13. It doesn't appear to be. That's what I was getting at in my last post, I'm not really sure how to test the seal between the loading nozzle and the bushing. I think what is happening is the gas is leaking out before it gets into the loading nozzle therefore it does not have enough pressure to close the rocket valve.
  14. Update* This has turned into a "what parts work on a WE G17" project now. So far I have installed an AIP blowback housing, Gen 3 Zero trigger, and an AIP loading nozzle. All of the parts fit perfectly and engage each other as they should but they still do not work as they should. I am getting a good seal between the piston o ring and the new loading nozzle but gas still shoots out the barrel and I can only get half cycles if I work with the slide. I believe the problem lies in the seal between the loading nozzle and the magazine. I think there is some space in between the two but I'm not sure how to test that area for a leak. At this point I am just documenting this stuff for posterity in case anyone in the future happens to wonder about the fitment of these aftermarket parts. I've decided to take the parts I bought and install them on a TM when I buy one in the near future. However, if anyone knows how to fix the problem I'm having with the WE I'd still like to know.
  15. The stock housing wore down in the spot that pushes the hammer down. I compared the two housings and they looked identical but I figured there would be some part that was minutely different. Ive almost given up on this gun; already started looking at moving to a TM
  16. So I'm still having this problem. I got some new o rings and got the seal good but it still won't blow back. I can get the gun to half cycle if I mess around with the slide before firing so my question is this: if the blowback housing is causing the nozzle to seat in the bucking at a slightly different angle, would the extra little bit of friction of the bucking on the nozzle cause the gun to not blow back?
  17. The rocket valve was my first though as well but I was confused when I found it intact. I didn't think a less than perfect seal would cause a complete lack of functionality. Oh well, looks like I'm on the hunt for some new o rings. Thanks guys.
  18. Yeah I've checked the rocket valve twice. It's not broken and it's in the right way. And yes, trigger pull and all the gas goes out the barrel
  19. So recently I installed an AIP blowback housing and zero trigger into my WE G17. My blowback housing didn't come with the o rings it was supposed to so I tried rigging up something with smaller o rings that I had already. I managed to get a decent airseal but not perfect. Anyway the problem is that now the gun will not blowback and empties all of the gas in the mag out the barrel when the trigger is pulled. Is the less than perfect airseal causing my problem? I've run out of ideas, nothing in the gun is broken and all of my parts are installed correctly. Help...
  20. Looking for a G&P aeg lower. I'm not picky, trades don't matter and it doesn't have to be in perfect condition. I'd prefer a tan lower but like I said I'm not picky. It has to be a G&P though.
  21. Have you turned your attention to the hop up unit itself yet? I've had hopups with less than ideal play in both the gears and the arm that lead to variances in FPS and accuracy. You could try shimming the hopup arm and making sure the adjustment wheel's screw is tightened down to try to remove as many variables as possible.
  22. Announcement video of the VFC M&P. It looks good but I'm not convinced it's worth the $170 price tag. Also, I'm not sure why they would release the compact before the full size
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