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Everything posted by deaconque

  1. I use silicone oil and pieces of paper towel. I have not seen any evidence that a slight oil residue or debris from the paper towel affects accuracy in any way.
  2. LMAO! Search a little bit and you'll find your answer (btw r hop and the z kit are the same thing)
  3. Do the buffer tubes come with the mounting hardware?
  4. I just use thick CA glue. As long as your prep work is good on the piece to be glued and you have used a good degreaser then there shouldn't be problems with adhesion.
  5. I'd recommend buying a multi pack of heat shrink. A lot of hardware stores will sell a box that comes with 10-12 pieces of everything from 1/2" down to 1/16". You never know when you might need one of those in between sizes that isn't that common.
  6. The sector gear seems like it's running a little high. It might just be the photo but it looks like it's rubbing against the piston teeth rails.
  7. Eotech 551 clone KAC URX rail with RAS fix KAC rail covers VLTOR gas block flip up front sight magwell grip VLTOR clubfoot stock
  8. I don't see how you can make a statement like that without having experience with the gun. WE's QC has gotten increasingly better over the past year or two with their gas guns so it has most likely done the same for their AEGs. Check out EpicairsoftHD's review on youtube, it faired pretty well.
  9. You could wait a little while for the new WE Katana series, they look very promising.
  10. In case anyone has the same issues in the future, I thought I would post what I found. My hammer bearing was sitting just a little too high causing the slide to get stuck when returning to battery. After disassembling the hammer assembly I discovered the the notch the holds the hammer in place when it is cocked was worn to the point where it let the bearing sit just a slight bit too high, the notch is also very small so it will probably wear out quickly in every stock configuration. I'm going to order an AIP steel hammer set and install it and I believe that should fix the problem. Thanks to Knucklesapo on youtube for the helpful G17 videos.
  11. That doesn't help all that much unless you tell him what vendor you're referring to.
  12. Mag wobble isn't that big of a deal. My mags wobble in my g&p and they still work fine, if it bothers you that much you can use electrical tape on the mags to shim it a little tighter. Also, as long as you're not abusive to your gear plastic mags will work just fine. If you can't swing this time around definitely get a lipo in the future. They're cheaper, lighter and pretty much better in every way.
  13. Agreed. While it's not really my cup of tea, it is a pretty good deal. Your getting a G&P with a magpul body and at least $200 worth of accessories and a PTS Pmag. I bought my MRP from Ehobby and it came with a bunch of magpul goodies for only $40 more than a stock MRP. Just expect to do some internal work in the future.
  14. So I decided to sand and polish the slide rails of my WE G17 the other day and afterword I started having a problem with the slide sticking halfway before returning to battery. I narrowed the problem down to the trigger bearing and the bump on the frame that pushes the trigger bearing down. I'm not sure why I would start getting this problem after polishing everything but that's what happened. I tried to fix the problem by slowly sanding down the bump in the frame that pushes the hammer bearing down but I ended up sanding too far so now I need a new slide assembly. The thing that I need to know is how far above the frame is the hammer bearing supposed to sit? Mine sits .5 to 1mm above the frame slide rail. I know at this point I need a new slide but is my hammer spring worn out or something? Do I also need to buy a new frame or will a new slide fix my problem?
  15. An indication of your goal for the gun would help before people start giving suggestions. As a basis I would reshim, regrease, correct AOE, and install a mosfet.
  16. Check out the classifieds section here. There are a number of stocks on there right now for very good prices.
  17. Modify's materials seem to be more conducive to the bearing type environment since the others you mentioned are simply stainless steel but alas I am no expert on metals so I could be wrong
  18. I might just spring for the ceramics. I've heard many good things and I have no problems overhauling a gearbox if something breaks. I think you've convinced me, unless someone can convince me otherwise.
  19. You can just sand or dremel it down. I only took enough off to make fitment in mag pouches easier. It hasn't caused any problems whatsoever. Just to be clear, this is the area I'm referring to-
  20. I looked at the Modify ceramics a while ago but I couldn't bring myself to spend $30 on some bearings
  21. Seriously? I took them out due to all the horror stories I heard about bearings coming out and destroying gearboxes. I had contemplated putting the full set of G&P bearings back in (right now I have a mixture of shs bushings ad G&P bearings on the bevel). I might just throw the bearings back in there and see what happens
  22. I thought of grinding them down but I don't really trust myself enough to make the surface balanced enough.
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