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Dave@PBO

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Everything posted by Dave@PBO

  1. Local ordinances can differ, so that's a relative question. You may want to look up your state law statutes along with contacting your local city hall to ask them what they do/don't allow in public. I know here that items like airsoft guns or ballistics are strictly prohibited unless they are stored like a firearm... and even then, many places prohibit them even being out in the open. I tell all of my customers that the orange flash-hider must be present, it must be unloaded/no battery, and it must be stored in an appropriate bag for transportation. If there is no flash-hider is present, a FOID (in this state) should be present for a fallback option.
  2. I can make you a cash offer for all your high dollar guns (not looking for TM products, though... sorry). I run a pro-shop so I'd need to be able to sell them for a profit obviously, but the option is there if you want to get out of the game quickly and have cash in your pocket.
  3. If I didn't have 9 guns already I'd definitely take you up on that. Good deal right there.
  4. I'm potentially interested in the MK23 if you're willing to drop the price to $350 shipped and you keep the battery and sling. Not trying to nickel and dime you, I just have a billion batteries already and I don't use slings on the field. I can also offer you a trade on ANY brand new gun of your choice (with some stipulations) if you're simply selling to buy another gun. I'm a dealer, so I have access to just about everything. I saw you're not looking for trades; just wanted to throw that out there if that's what you were doing with the money. Heh.
  5. that's a great builder gun right there. Perfect for you guys on a budget. I'd grab it if I didn't already have an AK, heh.
  6. Foopy, there's a lot of different directions you can go for DMR's. M14's can be a little tricky to work on. Definitely not bad guns, but they've got some extra moving components since they gearbox is crammed into such a tight spot. Cool guns, though.
  7. I have a brand new Type 97 Carbine I'd potentially be willing to part with if you're interested. Battery access is very straight forward, but it IS tight. Body splits apart and it lays right inside the center section. A 7.4 lipoly is your best bet for fitment. I also bought a replacement spring set, tappet plate, and piston for it (all brand new, still in the boxes.. bought for emergency replacement purposes). Price won't be cheap since they're impossible to find in the US and it's still new, but I am also including a ton of extras.. one of which is the top rail for optics.
  8. Just to answer this so everyone knows - we stopped carrying the WE G18 because it snaps the nozzles on them very easily. It's definitely a design flaw. The G17 does not share this problem as the nozzle is completely different. Haven't had any problems with them and I've sold quite a few of them. Of the G18's I've sold, I've probably had 30% come back with nozzle failures.. some more than once.
  9. ^ I am in the process of buying one of G&P's guns right now, actually. I definitely agree with you. KWA makes good stuff, but there are many formidable companies out there.
  10. You won't need more than one KWA gun. I've sold a ton of them, and shot equally as many from customers/friends/random players. I am continually surprised at how well they shoot out of the box. Picking one really just depends on what YOU think will best apply to your setup. That's it. Everything else is simply someone else's opinion.
  11. Notice I didn't make that claim ;) The point was: why choose a PRIMARY by essentially fighting with an arm tied behind your back? The ideal environment is to creat equal competition during play, not have a massive disadvantage. Player skill is the single most important variable, but everything else DOES influence the ability to do things effectively... gun quality, player skill, player physical conditioning, player starting points with various choke points in favor/disfavor, who's on the team, how well do they know the map(s), luck..... the list goes on and on. The problem still comes down to - if I can shoot more, I WILL shoot more. If I have to conserve because I am forced to do so, then I can do it, but it's restrictive to potential in many situations simply because the ammo isn't there. I agree with what you're saying as we are on the same page, but I can comfortable tell you that the player that is EQUAL skill and has more ammo than you is a huge problem. I used to play in cash tournaments (Paintball) and this was always a big problem for my loadout. I was a front player, and my only saving grace was the fact I was essentially a "CQB" player and didn't need to fire as much in order to get the job done... especially considering my targets were mostly 30-50 feet away at the most. I also had to sacrifice ammo for the sake of weight so I could get to the midpoint of the field before everyone else did. In my case, I had half as much ammo as everyone else. Definitely viable, but I did need to be careful.. especially when engaging players that definitely have more ammo than me. Having 1/20 of the ammo would straight up SUCK. Those players that are equally as good will just suppress the hell out of you while walking an angle to where they can finally see you and nail you. There's simply nothing you can do in those situations but move when they move so they can't see you, but then you're exposed to other players and they'll tap you out. Ask me how I know :) Case and point: don't underestimate the value of ammo. It's a lot bigger than you might think. It's only one factor, and there are many factors, but that's a BIG one.
  12. From a distribution standpoint, I can comfortably tell you a big chunk of the reason ISN'T that people aren't buying the products. It's actually the opposite. The problem is KWA makes great products but sandbags their suppliers and dealers by leaving them out of the loop. Leaving people in the dark is what causes problems. I've got people that need KWA specific parts and we have no clue when or if those parts will be available any time soon. Nobody knows, and the fact they haven't even addressed this rising problem of guns/parts scarcity is honestly concerning. We love their stuff at our store, but they're honestly a headache to deal with, and their terms for establishing dealer status are a giant punch to the groin. For the price point - I have absolutely no problems selling KWA's products, and I don't even "push" them. Not sure if they're having management problems or what, but they need to get on the ball and fix things before they go under from not taking action properly.
  13. Get what you want. Everyone else here including me will just be pissing in the wind with their opinion. Nobody else knows what you want. You need to be honest with yourself with what you're expecting out of a gun. Just keep in mind: You've got at best 50 rounds in that magazine. Most players have SEVERAL magazines alone that hold 300+ each. Good look taking someone on that has 20 times as much ammo as you do. Equal skill applied, you will lose every single time. Pretty common sense here.
  14. I really hate to say this, but.. use your common sense. Have you even looked up the price of magazines for the Vector? That's not accounting for the fact you can buzz through a whole mag with one of those in literally seconds. They're really cool guns, but you're restricting your style of play with one of those. I'd take any AEG over that thing any day of the week. Most of those guns are better suited for plinking and conversational pieces than they are as effective primaries unless you're VERY conservative. I've seen it done, but I'd never do it.
  15. I'd take a KingArms over a Classic Army. Performance-wise they're both NOT BAD (from my experience of both manufacturers), but they need attention. Definitely KA does better than CA does with attention to detail. This is my OPINION, though and take it with a grain of salt since I haven't owned a FAL or any of it's cousins. I've watched a bunch of reviews on them though (thought about a DMR for it) and magazines won't be pleasant to deal with since they're obviously unique.. and you also have some wobble issues and questionable plastic issues on both manufacturers IIRC.
  16. Sent you a PM (albeit, it's been a month). Get back to me whenever you get the chance.
  17. Did you know that EVERY car out there comes out from the factory "nitrous ready" ? I bet you didn't know that... now see what happens when you take an every day grocery-getter and repeatedly throw a shot through the motor. You might blow it up today, you might blow it up in 2 months, and you might blow it up in 2 years... but make NO mistake - it's not a matter of "if" rather than "when". It WILL blow up. Just because you've gotten lucky enough to not experience problems doesn't mean it applies to every gun. I've seen so many guns come into the store from lipolys frying something that it would make your head hurt. Not to say Lipoly batteries are the root of evil (they aren't), but it needs to be done properly or you WILL have failures. All three of the companies mentioned are good companies. The only gun I DO NOT like it VFC's Scar. Teardown on that gun is an absolute nightmare. If you're OK with that, then more power to you.
  18. It's not bad quality plastic by any means, but it's not top notch stuff either like you'de see on some of the higher tier guns. I'd consider it "good/acceptable" for 90% of the people out there, but if you're horrendously picky on the grade polymer for your guns - then this one probably isn't for you. It's definitely not crap, and it wouldn't snap/split if you dropped it. I am very particular on the plastic quality for all the guns I own (even the small pieces) and I think it's fine. I don't like the fact the trigger is plastic, but it's light and has a long pull to it.. both of which I like. I've posted it before, but midcaps DO WORK in this gun.. If you compare the KWA magazines to the one that comes with the gun, you'll find they're very similar and fit the same. I had a full video review but decided I want to redo it and touch up on a few more things. You'll see it on Youtube sometime relatively soon. Oh, and we got another tan version in yesterday.. It's definitely not tan like the pictures clearly misrepresent. It's a mixture between dark earth and olive. It's not a bad color really, but it's not DE/Tan by a mile. I would've been pissed had I been the buyer of this gun expecting what was seen in the photos. - as far as weight distribution, it is extremely close to the Type 97 Carbine. F2000 is much back heavier, and has a bigger "girth" to it. The UAR is very easy to handle in comparison.
  19. I have seen LOTS of their old stuff.. And had more than the "pleasure" of fixing a bunch of them for those who decided to cheap out on things and buy one of those junk heaps off the internet. We aren't talking about their old stuff. This is the FIRST TIME we have ever carried APS anything in the store. You think I want to deal with a customer coming back every day with something new broken? All my stuff is warrantied through me, so that's a big NO because labor is free in exchange for a headache on my end at that point..Especially considering you don't make squat on the guns themselves. If this gun really was a massive turd I would've just called it a loss and kept it for a spare on the field if someone else was having issues with their stuff.. I also wouldn't be telling someone to waste their hard earned money on something unless I was sure about things. It would be one thing if you actually had one of these in your hands, but right now you're making blanket statements and criticisms about a gun you haven't even personally looked at or have any personal hands on experience with. That kind of claim is just as bad as someone saying "Fords suck" because their grandpa's best friends brother had a Pinto that constantly gave him issues, yet little Johnny has never owned a Ford, let alone has he driven one. Now I am defending their product :)
  20. Compared to what? You can't expect Godlike performance and reliability from a $200 gun. It's just not going to happen. SOMETHING will be lost because of the pricepoint (whether it's an overall mix of things, or the body is junk, or the gearbox is junk, or both). It's definitely not perfect, but for the price - it IS better than most of what you see out there. You're comparing apples to oranges... and considering the fact many people will end up modifying the gun anyway (just like they do with their JG's or similarly priced guns), that's kind of a null point. This gun was targeted at that audience. I'm not defending the gun by any means, but I think we need to be realistic about what you're getting. Like anything, you get what you pay for. That's the bottom line.
  21. I've had a few A&K guns in my store come in for repairs, and ALL of them have been massive POS's regardless of what the repair was. I don't recommend them. Pick something else.
  22. I just got one in today for the store and I can comfortably tell you this is a nice gun for the money. I'll be doing a brief overview of the gun tonight. It's not perfect, but it's a hell of a lot better than some of the other guns out there on a similar price point. I highly recommend it if you're into bullpups. I have both OP's guns on the wall, and this gun is much nicer than CA's P90 by a mile. Just figured I'd fill you in if you're still on the fence about things.
  23. Same thing, just different setup. Paintball guns use the exact same setups for typical woodsball setups. It's a remote-based system. If you think maintenance is bad on a typical airsoft gun, you definitely don't want an HPA based gun using electronics and a solenoid system. These require much closer inspection because air pressure needs to be watched carefully as well as have the gun torn apart regularly to make sure the rings are well sealed and in good condition. They are not bad guns or unreliable persay, but they're definitely not worth the asking price with what's currently out there on the market.. that's for sure. Don't go with a HPA setup unless you're willing to get very fluent with your setup (aka: NOT plug and play). I work on these systems regularly and the people who have problems with theirs are the ones that don't take their gun completely apart after every game to inspect/replace o-rings, as well as clean the solenoid. In perspective: a HPA paintball gun with typical operating pressures of 35-120 PSI are lucky to go through a box of paint (2000 rounds) in one typical game shooting a regulation limited 10 ROF. Airsoft does not have any restrictions with ROF unless set by your field, and most typical airsoft players go through at least that amount (2500+/-) and some go through much more... at a much higher ROF. That's more wear and tear on the rings, which requires paying closer attention. Eventually, they WILL leak. It's just a matter of which rings, and when.
  24. ZackOX, I've had four of these grips and they all have the same casting "flaw". If I had to take a guess, it's probably because they took the dimensions of the real grip (of which I coincidentally have sitting here right at my desk, and I can probably measure tomorrow). They all had the same problems, and they were all fixed doing what I mentioned because they do NOT bounce freely and they never reach the bottom of the grip because it narrows the further you reach down in them. While it's entirely possible I could've gotten a bad batch of these (albeit VERY rare), I can comfortably say I had the same issue with them until I did that. Keep in mind - this isn't shaving anything, especially at the bottom of the grip. It's the internal width I am talking about; I am not referring to the mating point of the grip. Doing a light dremeling (keyword: LIGHT) will not affect the structural integrity whatsoever, as you're not touching the mating surface down at the bottom of the grip where screws install.
  25. That's not entirely correct. They're "offspec" because they're THICKER and don't allow the motor to seat properly. Anyone who is having issues with their guns and this grip is experiencing incorrect motor/pinion depth. Take a dremel with a course sandpaper grit and gently massage the inside of the grip until you can comfortably seat the motor all the way down into the grip and you won't have any issues. There's nothing wrong with the grip outside of not being a bolt-in-and-go item. J_SOPMOD, ratio will not affect gear whine in any gearsets regardless of what they're in. The only thing that affects gear whine is the design of the gear teeth, and the tooth slope in conjunction with the pinion. If they're whining like that - something obviously isn't mated properly.
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