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Everything posted by swatti

  1. KJW MK2 NBB Wont kill the bank, Co2 aviable and easy to tweak. TM or clone MK23 Often considored "the best" NBB and not in vain.
  2. "Ok..." Just wondering where the BBs go.
  3. Due to Facebooks crusade against freedom speech, I don't mind coming back to good old discussion boards. Meet the "Oppressor" - a modern version of the "Winchester Liberator" - 4 barrels of happiness in semi-auto. - Pulling rear-sight back breaks open the action. - Mandetory tacticool rail for mounting something useless. - Each trigger-pull fires the next barrel in sequence. - AEG M4 compatible pistol-grip - Rail for mounting a forwards grip (grip will also be supplied) - Working extractor - 3D printed Can use APS and PPS gas shells. This allowed me to focus on mechanical parts instead of building a firing-system as the shells are self-contained. PPS shells could use an inner-barrel setup and one is being designed. Personally I would suggest using APS shells as they are low maintenance. PPS shells also "backfire" so using them with Co2 is a no-no. APS shells on Co2 are fine. The grey areas in the pic are 3D printed parts. The grip used in the very first was an AEG M4 grip. All guns will have a 3D printed one. Front grip will also be supplied. Pulling the forward-grip back will move the ejector and expose the shells. Removing a small limiter will fully eject the shells. This gun is the first serial-produced airsoft gun made in Finland. 3D modeled and printed by yours truly. This project has been in the making for the past year or so. First batch will about dozen guns and at the time of writing this six have been assembled and tested. Each gun is assembled by hand and tested. Due to limitations of 3D printing material thickness is quite high. Most walls are 3mm or thicker. Material is "PETG" as in similar to what soda-bottles use. Its impact-resistant and flexes before it cracks. Bodies of the first batch has been painted in matte-black. Un-painted has nasty shine on it, plan is to paint the rest if schedule allows. These are indeed 3D printed and I have no intention of hiding it. The printing "layers" are very visible. Printing time for the entire unit is roughly 35 hours. Each component under stress is reinforced with steel screws or extra material-thickness. For example the hinge is both very thick and has a steel screw acting as a stopper. The mechanism locking the action is also reinforced with a steel screws. 2 screws align next to each other when the action is closed. Zero wobble and the rear sight slides over the second screw locking the action in place. Its contact-surface is reinforced with screw also, just in case. By adjusting these screws you can define how stiff the locking action is. The outer barrels are industrial alu-tubes in 22mm and cut into lenght. They are held in by screws that attach the hinge. And yes, they will be left matte-silver as they look cool. The first ones are ready for a new home at 200€ + shipping. Full support and spares aviable if needed. Some custom components have been planned such as a AEG buffer compatible rear-end. I've done as much testing as I can, now its up the next owners to take this to the next level. I'l keep this as an R&D topic. Any questions, suggestions, or comments are welcome.
  4. https://youtu.be/vaduNLtiw6I Video up. Not very good quality...
  5. Can you pass me a picture of the original feed system and the boxmag when empty?
  6. It seems no matter what brand or model one thing is universal. All boxmags feed terribad and suck. Aftermarket solutions are far and few with most just being the same thing copied over and over again with the same faults and issues sometimes even worsened. "I'm here to change that" This started out as a quest to make a "remote feeder" for a HPA pistol. Introduced the idea to some people and many came asking for a feeder to their LMG, and from there it evolved... Long story short, I 3D model stuff and 3D print stuff. So, I modeled a feeding-system, based on a system in a gun from nearly 30 years ago and referred by many as one of the most horrible guns to work on, ever... The TOP M60. AEG LMG without an actual gearbox. Let that sink in for a while. To the point. That gun "direct feeds" as there is no "hi-cap" inside or even an actual magazine, you just open the top-cover and pour the BBs in. Gravity feeds them the intake and from the the axle of the motor runs a geared "wheel" that feeds the BBs in to the gun. Its actually not as simple as it sounds. But it could be. First issue for many LMGs is that the feeder is too weak. Almost all rely on regular "hi-caps" that weak motors wind thru several gears. Next is the "vertical" mounting of the units such as the basic M249 big-box where the feeder takes 2/3 of the space and last but not least, the jamming. Mostly due to all other of forementioned. How to fix the universe? I'm with Thanos on this one but how to fix the magazine takes a few steps. One is horizontal mounting. TOP M60 did it first, but many are more familiar with the MAG M249 "small box" magazine. The winding wheel is in the bottom "floor" of the magazine leaving lots of space and area where the BBs fall into the feed-wheel. Second is moar powah! A proper 12v, or in our case a 11.1v lipo run system. This is where the MAG failed as they, and many others use RC servos. They are very slow, even the faster ones and quite brittle if not metal-geared. Bigger servo is just wasted space and properly geared the price jumps. They ar not "meant" to be driven long times. Third is the hi-cap spring. It has its perks but lot of issues too. They need a "delayer" or the spring reverses when over-spinning on empty and snaps soon after. The springs decay over time and are quite weak to begin with. Also, bloody cuts on fingers when they get loose. My system combines all 3 fixes. Its a horizontal mounted unit with plenty of space, its driven by geared 12v motor and has no winding spring. "So, how does it have tension to feed first BBs?" If your gun has its piston already "at the back" and ready to, the BB has already been chambered. If not, the magazine will have enough time to run the chamber-cycle before the shot. Obviously the magazine will need to run as you shoot. The feeding tube "spring" most guns use also stretches a tiny bit. Thats enough tension to chamber 2-4 BBs without winding the unit. "What about over-feeding?" Where the winding-spring used to be now houses a mechanism similar to the original spring when it starts to "skip" fully winded. This just starts to skip at when the winding wheel can no longer spin. My rallye-driver english fails me here, I don't know the proper term for it. The torque it can take can be adjusted fairly easy if needed. 3D printed and designed to fit the original M249 magazine. Most "box mags" are not much smaller than that. Some drums might not fit this but I would say AK drums could. The base-plate can be sized up to a size of the bottom of any magazine if I just had the correct numbers. Till then its gonna need some tinkering or give me some numbers. This particular unit is not very well suited for the original remote pistol-feeder but it has been built with the idea of a backpack or "murderbox" in mind. The metal spring used to feed rounds thru starts to make lot of friction once it gets 50cm+ and then the winding spring simply isnt enough to push the BBs thru. PTFE hose can help, but only a bit as the BBs really do start to have considorable weight. This fella can feed "over the shoulder" from a backpack. The light blue part is the output for the BBs. Its meant to fit the feed-spring but if need be I can increase the bore to fit a 9mm OD, 7mm ID size PTFE tube for those murderboxes. Connectors to and from the hose or spring can be made easily of need be. There are 3 operational units built and all tested. What I need now is some quinea pigs to test these in the field. Anyone? 😉 What I need from you is some DIY skills to modify this into an existing magazine, OR measurements of your magazine. Most likely it will need some dremel-work still. If possible, access to a 3D printer incase parts need to be re-made or altered. Price will be 50€ + shipping. Shipping to US was 15€ so around that is to be expected. I'l upload some videos later... EDIT1: Pic posted. Ordered some more motors. ETA... Umm... Well, roughly couple weeks. Maybe.
  7. My "Magnum opus" A legend reborn... My eternity project. No ETA Arduino controlled. ICS split box upper. DSG for fast burst, limited FA-ROF, realistic magazines. External proto has been printed. "It can be done..."
  8. "The Box cannon" Ultra-simplified 1911 modeled by yours truely. Based on TM tech and made to be compatiple. Hi-capa and 1911 frames will be made. Oh, and IN STEEEEL. Plan is to make an "affordable" steel kits for skirmishers, not collectors. Side-project. Currently hunting down a "lost wax caster" to make these. Price-range is planned to be about half at least of what current steel kits cost.
  9. "Universal" feeding-system for box-magazines. Fixes the few most common issues instead of just copying existing setups. Has enough power to feed "over the shoulder" for murder-boxes. Separate HPA-pistol feeder also coming, later. R&D topic for this: https://www.airsoftforum.com/topic/305830-custom-lmg-boxmag-feed-system-who-wants-one/
  10. ODST Magnum. KJW mk2 NBB based Added thumb-operated mag-catch and fixed the issue of hammer not returning properly. A "Ruger MK4" version that will be compatiple with the original uppers will be reverse-engineered from that. Due to licensing the marking will ne gone from the final one.
  11. "Oppressor" quad-barrel shotgun. 3D printed Uses APS & PPS shells Semi-auto Sequential trigger Functioning extractor Break open Loosely based on "Winchester liberator" with a modern twist. Only shell-based semi-auto around. Aprox dozen models printed and being assembled for commercial market. This would be the FIRST ever serial-produced airsoft gun from Finland.
  12. "Though I'd ask nicely..." Jeah, hi, I develop all sorts of 3D printed stuff for airsoft. Since Facebook's war on freedom of speech I cant use that much as a platform anymore. "Your next in line" Mind if I post R&D topics on my projects and then further market or scout out "early adopters" to test my new gizmos? I'd be offering the testers as much support as possible to perfect the product in question. Some may be free, some may be paid with the idea of making the project into a full commercial product.
  13. Well, it seems like facebook systematicly purged me from more than 15 different groups and/or banned the groups too. Well, here in Finland we have this thing called "freedom of speech" Been a member for quite some time but I suppose its a good time to introduce myself a bit more. Been a airsoft techie for about 15 years. Ran a upgrade & maintenance service for about 10 years. Still do "special cases" when all others have failed and tweak on some classics most have never heard of. Few years ago I was looking to find a spare for something and none had been made in the last 20 years... "Well, 3D print it, how hard can it be?" and it turns out, very. But, I did learn how to 3D model stuff and then bought my own printer. Rest is history in the making. Heres a little something I've been working on.
  14. Getting the same error. Out of curiosity, what is the biggest airsoft discussion board nowdays?
  15. "I know the voices in my head aren't real but they have really good ideas..." I wanted those semi see-thru Tmags but all sold out and discontinued. Then my inner capitalist piggy woke up, there's a market for this stuff! Recently I've learned to 3D model stuff with Solidworks and I'm getting pretty good at it too. Now, I've made the best M4 magazine in the world! *hic* Basic concept is being a see-thru like Tmags and single-row for perfect feeding. As market demands, an extra lap gives the magazine more capacity. The whole magazine can be fieldstripped by removing two pins. The heavy-rubber bottom plate is designed to take drops and accept magpuls via cutouts or its own loop. The spring-quide can be removed by hand for easy cleaning. Even the little nub holding the BBs in has a bit bigger button, because: nicer I've mapped out makers for an alu-mold to make couple thousand units, then move into more expensive steel molds. Currently waiting if I can get starter-cash from local county or so. I've already got a local maker for some high-quality springs that won't wear out anytime soon. Quality and reliability are top priorities. Bottom-plate with an integrated loop is in the works. Few other models too, AK, MP5, G36, M14, etc... Midcaps are also planned, will need testing. Adding more laps to the single-row is being tested already. Several "shades" or colors will be offered: black, OD and tan. Also mapping out retailers willing to sell these and so far I've had a warm welcome. If anyone has contacts, feel free to drop me pm. Two questions remain: One: What features would you like to see in the magazine? It's all open for ideas. Two: Would you buy these? I'm hoping these are yours for sub 15 bucks. Im hoping to get these into production within the next couple of months if all goes well. Current plan is to 3d print a prototype, make corrections to the model based on that proto, then re-proto and test it. If all goes well, optimize the model for molds and get them made. Once the molds are done, perfect the transparency and colors, then mass-produce these. "Designed by a fat nerd from Finland in his mom's basement" Pics in Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/q2hbzvrwivfymey/AAD6FHV2Oi-Bcv4wkd9LG8Xya?dl=0
  16. Well, I gave it the usual steel wire -treatment and it turned out quite decent. SHOULD HAVE given it a steel grey base coating and black on top. Or vice versa but went with just black spray paint. Problem is that the stock and front-end have quite a few steel parts, rusted and ugly while the receiver looks less natural wear. Oh well, few more details and this AR genuinely stands out from the rest.
  17. Been watching ~2 hours of painting quides, any and all quides how to get that worn out look BUT they are seemingly all for khaki/darkearth/etc colors and I totaly hate those... "Kids play in the sandbox, real men don't" ^^ Issue is, how to treat SANDED ALUMINIUM PARTS, the bare metal that comes visible. Sanding & steelwire gives the natural worn look and hey, its a 20 dollar M4 body so no worries if it looks horrid or goes boo boo. Sanding however does have one issue, it shines the surface and leaving the body out in the moisty/rainy backyard did very little to improve the looks. The other parts did catch a nice bit of rust but the alu-parts look "miss matching" and could use a darker tone One other issue is also the aluminium factory-coating, in some parts if far stronger then regular paint and it wont "chip off" but simply starts to shine before I even get to the actual metal underneath. Please don't paste any quides unless it specificly has BLACK parts being treated and that part being ALUMINIUM, like a M4 body is. Im hoping you understood, my rallye-driver english lacks many specific terms.
  18. Steel part I was aiming at. I tried contacting inokatsu via the form on their site, I doubt they will answer.
  19. Somehow lost my bolle-clones and went to skirmish with some random low-profile goggles and two hours in was driving back cause I could not see anything thru the fogging. Sad panda now. Days long gone I had clone of ESS fan-goggles. They were ok'ish with few issues. Sadly they were also collateral damage to getting a puppy. Soooo... What are my options for fan-goggles these days? Its been years since ive checked so has to be some developement on the field right? Fast searching gave me couple 100 bucks+ goggles and soon after found clones of those for ~30 bucks. don't mind spending big if it really is worth it but so far ive found no decent comparisons. Ordered some random goggles from Ebay with a set of regular mesh-goggles "for the lylz"
  20. I'm hoping to make extended slide-catch "field mod" but I dare not touch the original, dat be sacred. Also the axle mounting the catch is oddly short. It's not falling out but my plan was to add a bearing axle to it while at it. Where can I find one of these? Inokatsu has a distinctive color tone also so regular "black" would stand out and going after the original surface treatment might be expensive for such small part. Btw: what is the coating called? Is there a contact email for Inokatsu? Has anyone seen these things sold somewhere?
  21. I've owned both. Alltho I was too scared to open the OB M16 I had and way too scared to skirmish it, felt like the receiver was gonna crack in half just from the weight of the front... I managed to strike a bargain and buy a OB trigger-box & hopup. Just need the bolt-assembly. Also, the trigger-setup now works!! Took me about couple hours to figure out how the thing works. Sanded down the Hephaestus parts about 1mm and adjusted the trigger, voila! It shoots! After small stuttering in auto and one more sanding run the gun works like a charm. While the CB is more gas-efficant, it's not as good as I had hoped... I suppose less sad to see it go.
  22. Hopup and barrel I managed to cannibalize from a broken OB, bolt-catch looks like it could be filed down a bit to work with the new bolt. Considering the VERY small difference in design on the hammer-pin delayer I can't understand how the new one compares to the old one. I've had about 3 hours of quality-time with the gun so far... So much to learn, so much to break.
  23. Looks like the trigger-box is slightly different in OB and so is the part controlling the hammer-pin reset... HOWEVER! Ra-tech seems to use the CB reset-part but has the trigger-box of the OB gun... http://cdn1.evike.com/images/large/rag-we-025-2.jpg See the cut-out. My trusty Dremel will do that or I'l just buy an OB trigger-box. EDIT VSR in my books ain't too good... It does ease finding a barrel. EDIT2 Since it was bought cheap, I'l try to build it cheap. Just feels that if I buy the "kit" I waste 90% of the parts.
  24. Some kid sold me a CLOSED BOLT version for a 100 bucks, 5 Co2-mags, "hepheastus trigger bits, jams" I believe he was feeding it paintballs and/or kittens/puppies as the gun was full of painty goo and remains of unknown, now most likely dead fauna. Ok, questions!: - he didn't know what open or closed bolt was. The conversion kit has entire new trigger-box in it. Is it possible to install OB trigger in CB gun? (maybe he did that?) - why is there a new trigger-box in the kit? What differences are there so big it would need the whole box? I don't have the original trigger parts so I can't test. I'm tempted to stay closed bolt as I like the concept of no disconnection from the mag and bolt, aka: very gas-efficient. OB might kick more but I'l rather take the milage. I won't rule out the open bolt conversion eighter... Thing is, do I really need the "kit"? Bolt is sold separately, saw one with NPAS built in. I'd be getting that anyways... Bolt-catch I saw somewhere, in steel. I likes steel, wants. There's a video on YouTube about a steel hopup, are those out? After all that, there ain't many parts I need so why should I buy the "kit" at all? On my phone, spelling will suck, as does my English, sorry.
  25. One would imagine those valves are used in other magazines too... I have paintball bottle and an adapter to fill up regular mags with Co2 in liquid form but the pressure of Co2 flattens the rubber O-rings on regular valves and no hammer-spring is powerful enough to open them. Thus I need valves from a Co2 magazine which use harder seals. Is there a Co2 valve that fits DE mags? Hi Capa?
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