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Pwn-90

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Everything posted by Pwn-90

  1. Why not just sand down the spots of paint / use paint thinner? Seems better than spending the money on a new receiver..
  2. As sort of a 'semi' DIY, I cut 2 m-nubs to size and stacked them. Works great for me!
  3. Or just switch to a Lonex motor..
  4. Its a V2 from a A&K m4 originally, but I replaced the shell with a Lonex 8mm, which is in the pic. JB Weld shouldnt be a problem, Ill start a new thread or reply to this one if I have further issues. Im just going to replace the ARL with a spare.
  5. No, I held it so the spring would settle, then released it.
  6. Yeah, I popped it once to let the spring release before opening the shell.
  7. So, I opened up my gearbox to install the new sector chip I bought, only to find that my ARL had bent in on itself, and the bottom hole it sits in is now elongated. It's a stock A&K ARL, and here are the rest of the parts and pics: Shell...................Lonex 8mm (came from clandestine w/ a modified tappet plate) Gears.................SHS 13:1 Motor..................Lonex A2 Piston.................SHS blue with AoE/sorbo Piston Head.........stock A&K Cylinder Head......SHS Spring.................M120 Spring Guide........SHS Air Nozzle............SHS MOSFET...............ExtremeFire Jaguar Any ideas??
  8. Have a look for yourself.. both in the first column
  9. Maybe this has an obvious answer, but I was looking on airsoft atlanta's website and there are two different shs delayer chips, different shapes. What's the difference?
  10. Alright, so my problem is my gun is misfeeding. My brain is a little fried from school atm, maybe you guys can help me with a solution. I just got done building a new gearbox: Shell...................Lonex 8mm (came from clandestine w/ a modified tappet plate) Gears.................SHS 13:1 Motor..................Lonex A2 Piston.................SHS blue with AoE/sorbo Piston Head.........stock A&K Cylinder Head......SHS Spring.................M120 Spring Guide........SHS Air Nozzle............SHS MOSFET...............ExtremeFire Jaguar Batteries..............EAB 11.1v 2200mah 20C ..............Gens Ace 11.1v 5000mah 40C/80C burst So, with the EAB 11.1v, the gun fires bursts of blanks during full auto, semi almost never feeds. With the Gens Ace, full auto is pretty much perfect up until the last ~20 rds of the magazine, semi still doesn't want to feed. Looking in the hopup chamber, the nozzle sits about halfway extended, and the MOSFET returns it to this position after every shot. I can't get an accurate reading on ROF but I would say between 35-40 rps. Idk if the nozzle is the problem, I haven't tried a different one yet, but it seems odd the batteries would make enough of a difference to change the way it feeds. I was considering a delayer chip for the sector gear, thoughts on all of this?
  11. IIRC, a full cylinder will work fine for a 410mm barrel, but a type 4/5 cylinder is better optimized for that length. What brands are the barrels you are choosing from? But either way, the barrels won't have nearly as much effect on range as a good hop-up setup and quality, heavy (0.30+g) bbs.
  12. I also have a XCortech, best investment I ever made in airsoft.
  13. Version 2 with 7mm bearings. Just a word of advice, get bushings and not bearings. 7mm bearings will not hold up well with a m150 spring. Also, be sure to check out the miscellaneous tweaks guide to correct AoE, etc. LiPos don't come in 9.6v, you want either 7.4 or 11.1v.. 9.6v is referring to a NiMH battery. If you run a lipo, be sure to rewire to deans and get a mosfet. ExtremeFire makes excellent mosfets. And +1 on not getting overpriced systema parts. Try clandestineairsoft.com, they have great lonex and shs parts for cheap.
  14. If you tune the gearbox well, the piston should be fine, though a lonex piston may be better suited to the fps
  15. QC = Quality Control = consistency/quality. Idk a lot about AIM, maybe someone else can chime in on that. If you wanna be safe, go with Lonex/JG. What brand piston is it?
  16. A full cylinder is a type 0 cylinder, one with no port. As for the Matrix motor, I would advise against it, Matrix-labeled parts are known for their horrible QC. M130 will be fine, just make sure you take care of the gearbox after reading through this
  17. Not really, bore-up kits are for barrels 590+mm IIRC. You would do better with a full cylinder and Lonex A2 or JG Blue motor along with your spring of choice. Speaking of, what FPS are you trying to achieve?
  18. Trial and Error, mainly, unless you're like HS5 and your R-Hop Senses tingle when everything lines up right. Otherwise, put it all together, shoot, adjust hop, shoot, take apart and correct inconsistencies, lather, rinse, repeat
  19. The first one is a "bore up" set, which includes a larger bore cylinder, cylinder head, piston head and air nozzle. This, you don't need unless you are going hardcore on the rifle. The second one is just better-than-stock parts that will last longer and help seal better. The second one isn't terribly priced for the quality, but you probably don't need the cylinder or the piston head unless yours is trashed, and a good quality cylinder head, piston head (if you need it) and air nozzle can be had from clandestineairsoft.com for cheap.
  20. +1 on the Madbull being the 2nd choice after Prommy
  21. Change out the bucking while youre at it. The 2gx isn't designed for longevity at that fps (or any, really).
  22. Your friend needs to start by reading this: Preventative Maintenance
  23. How are your groupings with the 0.20g though?
  24. It works great for me. I use it in a A&K CQB M4 with 0.30g bbs, and maintain tight groupings past 200 ft
  25. Only one place to get it R-Hop The man to talk to is hunterseeker5 above your post ^^
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