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TexasSniper

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About TexasSniper

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  1. You have to be a hell of a shooter to drop someone running at you full speed from 21 feet. Someone in decent shape can run 21 feet from a dead start in around a second (assuming you could run a 40-yard dash in 5 seconds or so). I would bet less than one percent of all handgun owners could kill, not hit, but KILL, as in stop dead in their tracks, someone running at them with a knife from 21 feet away (considering their gun was holstered). First of all, it isn't illegal to own an airsoft gun so you don't need a license for it, that's like saying you can get in trouble for operating a toaster without a toaster license. Brandishing an unlicensed firearm pertains to the situation where you would have a firearm and it be unlicensed, not an airsoft gun which, isn't a firearm. Secondly, you can very well be convicted of a felony for voluntary manslaughter in California. If someone enters your house and you intentionally do them enough harm to kill them, whether in self defense or not, you can be acquitted with a felony and sentenced to up to 11 years in prison. http://www.shouselaw.com/voluntary_manslaughter.html
  2. .3s are a good bet from around 400-450 fps, above that you might want a .32 or .36, and above 500 you can take advantage of .38s or .4s Below 400 fps you aren't going to want to use sniper weight bbs, it will probably hurt your range. For 350-400 if you're looking for accuracy then .28s will work well, and 300-350 it seems .25s are a good bet. Looking up the gun you mentioned I can see it should be in that 400-450, so .3s should be perfect for you
  3. There's no such thing as a difference between DMR and Sniper Rifles in airsoft. I mean, you either have a "sniper" that is bolt action or gas powered and very accurate and with good range, or you have an AEG, that, while yes it can fire far and be accurate is a completely different gun. In airsoft a scoped M14 and a scoped M4 or AK47 do basically the same thing, am I right? In real life DMRs generally have a longer barrel, use a bipod and sniper-like optics, and will have a lower cpacity magazine. There is no reason a sollider in a designated marksman role who is part of an urban squad couldn't use a sniper rifle like the M24 or M40A3, and there's no reason that a solider in a sniper role couldn't use an M14, it really just depends on the circumstance. The posted picture appears to be a designated marksman in more of an urban suqad-type role using an SR25, a sniper generally wouldn't be wearing as much gear or using an M16 variant like that.
  4. To expand on what EDI 1st first posted, Buy a jgbar10 or tmvsr10, then install new trigger and piston sear new piston, spring guide, cylinder head and a teflon cylinder 170 spring new hopup bucking tightbore barrel zero trigger Installing all of these parts is very easy to do, and if you do them one at a time you will know how to take apart and put back together your gun very well, and hopefully you will know how each part of the gun works as a contribution to the whole. Do these things, install these parts, work on your shooting, zero your scope, use good quality bbs, and you have a 500+ fps gun that will poop on any out of the box gun ever made... In short, 500 fps out of the box doesn't happen. But by upgrading stock snipers it's fairly easy to produce an accurate, reliable 500 fps rifle.
  5. Alright, while I save up for the PDI cylinder set I was planning on replacing my spring guide stopper with the PDI variant (just in the name of having matching parts), another low cost upgrade I figured I would do is to get a new hopup bucking. I think I've kind of strayed away from the PDI hopup chamber, seeing as how I don't want to buy a $140 hop up chamber that would only work once I have a new barrel and cylinder assembly. So Which hopup bucking for VSR10 is the best? (not most expensive, that's easy, the BEST) Are there any other cheap hop-up modifications I should make while I'm at it? AND Which PDI cylinder set could I use without having to buy a $100 PDI reciever for my cylinder? If buying a new reciever is a necessity, then what combination of teflon cylinder/piston/spring guide/cylinder head is the best cost to value ratio? I always prefer accuracy and reliability over FPS if that impacts any decisions, please also consider that I don't have $1,000 sitting around to buy any cool parts that come to mind.
  6. You need to replace the sears and you should also replace the piston and spring guide. I would also suggest replacing the spring guide stopper. With all of that in mind you might as well get a 150 spring, a 130 doesnt make much sense unless you're trying to stay under a field limit. It should all be around $100-$120, but then you can start working on other aspects of the gun such as the hopup and barrel without worrying about whether the stock internals will bust, because eventually they will. Most aftermarket sears will last thousands of shots. To answer your other question, 700 rounds is quite a few. That's like 25 magazines worth
  7. Cool, I like the look of the hopup chamber, the hopup is the one part of my gun I don't like messing with as it can be very touchy on a BAR10, so it's nice that all you have to do with that part is plug it in. A question I had on the hopup chamber is how do you install the black cylinder "nozzle"? That cylinder set is a little pricy, $225 seems like a lot. I like this price range a little more: Masamune Teflon Cylinder Is it a quality product? I think my piston is fine, however I would also be replacing my spring guide, not too happy with it, the silver finish is chipping off and getting in my cylinder causing terrible grinding friction. Is the PDI palsonite spring guide a good buy? So on barrels, is prometheus what you would go with as the best on the market right now? Also, why a 6.03 mm and not a 6.01mm? I wouldn't mind mantaining a 6.01mm, does it have more potential than a 6.03? As for the spring, if I installed all of the above would my gun take a 170 spring with no problems, or would a 160 or 150 be a better long term spring for accurate, repeated shooting. (I don't know say, 10,000 rounds haha) Which brings me to the question of BBs, which weight and which brand for a good cost/performace ratio? Feel free to answer none or all of these questions, I know I asked a lot... Price Breakdown: Hopup chamber $130 barrel $60 teflon cylinder $80 spring guide $30 Spring $15 Total $315 Shooting people with a $500 bar10 - priceless
  8. Currently I have a mostly stock JGBAR10. I have little to no problems with it ever, so I'd like to work on closing in on the full potential of the gun. I have a good platform to work from, upgraded piston and trigger sear, as well as upgraded piston and springguide. Currently I just use the stock 100 spring the gun came with since it is really pretty decent and it puts basically no stress on the gun. I regularly take the gun apart, check screws, lube everything, etc. With that in mind, my dream upgrade order looks something like this: Overhaul the crappy hop-up unit and replace barrel with a 6.01mm New cylinder head and Teflon cylinder to be used in conjunction with a 150 spring (I already have spring purchased, laylax I believe?) Make some barrel spacers Do some foam mods or padding on the internals to quiet everything Zero trigger For the finale do a wood camo paint job on the stock SO, what I'm asking is: Which brands to get for each part? Which order to do each upgrade in? What (if there are any) home mods would be neat to do or are worth doing? Any opinions are welcome, and don't be afraid to go crazy on the imagination, this is a long term project.
  9. Thanks everyone for the feedback. So an AUG uses a V3 gearbox opposed to a V2, what's the difference and which manufacturer makes the best AUG? (sick looking gun imo) On another note I would be more interested in accuracy and quality upgrades, and knowing how to reshim gears, apply grease, perform general maintenance on the gun than go for fps upgrades. Seems to me most stock AEGs have plenty high fps paired with somewhat non-reliable internals.
  10. Hey everybody, so my baby right now is a jgbar that I haven't had much time to work on, all I have done is put in aftermarket sears, piston, and springguide. It's still pretty sexy with the stock 100 spring, and eventually I'm going to get a teflon, new hop up and barrel. That aside, once I'm done with pimping my Bar, I'd like to get into AEGs and learn about the iternals, what the mechanics are etc. I'd like to get a solid gun I wouldn't have to upgrade too much, what would be some solid choices in the $150-$250 range? Models I like: Mp5 M4 G3 AUG M16 Bullpup guns (L85, famas) ACR Models I don't like: Russian styling (AKs) G36 What I was looking at as a possible first choice was the ICS mp5, all opinions are welcome. Thanks
  11. First of all, you should figure out why your rifle is broken. Secondly, if you are making a $400 upgrade you should be able to take every part of your gun apart, reassemble it, and fire it without problems in say half an hour. An upgraded VSR when mantained correctly is probably the best sniper on the market <$500, so no don't just buy another gun. The zero trigger is always the cherry on top, I would first install the teflon cylinder with the spring guide, cylinder head, and piston. Make sure the gun fires flawlessly, tighten any screws you need to. Then install your sears and 170 spring. You don't need a zero trigger for a high powered spring, once again test the gun, reverse steps if you find a problem. Lastly, install your hop-up and barrel. These are tricky, so make sure everything goes back into place and you don't lose any screws. Once again, test your gun. Now, if EVERYTHING works flawlessly, if you've shot 500 rounds or so without any problems, and your gun is a well oiled machine, THEN you can spend $160 for a zero trigger. Basically it will eliminate human error on shots by smoothing out the trigger pull, it also is much more quality material than the stock trigger mech. In all practicality, no, it's probably not worth $160, but if you really want to put your gun on the highest level performance wise then it's the only way to do so.
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