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Everything posted by unlmitedRA1N

  1. Neopads are 1/32 inch. Sorbo does a better job at absorbing shock than neoprene, but it is also more likely to tear. The ideal combo is sorbo with a thin layer of neoprene on top.
  2. Two things: 1. Prometheus does not make a barrel tighter than 6.03 2. 6.03 is generally the tightest you would ever want to go with standard spec 6mm BBs. <AT>Soap The REAPS bucking is definitely not cutting it for those kind performance goals. Many people, including myself, consider it quite the joke. If you are serious about hitting 1' grouping at 350 feet, you will need to look into milling out your hop up window and installing ER-hop up with EM nub. This will prove difficult though because you have a GBBR. Not impossible though. To achieve the 1' grouping at that distance you will also need to ensure that the FPS is consistent as possible. If the FPS fluctuates, the vertical grouping will suffer due to a varying hop up effect. For typical DM rifles this usually means keeping it all with ±1 or 2 fps. Again, this will be difficult in GBBR without externally regulated air.
  3. You can fit the same size battery in both the stock and the top cover. I would not consider either option ideal, but the top cover will provide much easier access and allow you to move everything around in there much easier. The only really benefit would come from running a big battery in a full stock or an external battery pouch. Why you would want an m4 stock on AK is beyond me though
  4. TM v6 or KS, etc. v6? XYT or JG will last a while if you have a KS, etc. style gearbox that uses v2/v3 gears. If it's marui, you will probably be looking at a set of siegeteks. At least that's the only decent gearset made for a marui v6 that I know of.
  5. I was in the same dilemma a while ago. You definitely do not want to get the 035. The TM design is much weaker and the pot metal externals do not help. If you want an AKS-74u AEG there are 3 "real" choices 1. VFC 2. Dboys Full steel RK-01 3. CM045 The VFC and Dboys are actually very comparable in my opinion. Both have gearboxes that need some tuning right out of the box but have very nice externals. The dboys rk-01, which I own, is actually a very nice clone. The VFC is a little nicer, but is it worth the much higher price? In my opinion no. The CM045 has slightly worse externals with a little less steel (like the front sight) but has a nicer gearbox with a neodynium magnet motor and steel bushings. It could benefit from some tuning but will last a while in stock form if you keep the battery voltage under 9 volts or so. I can't really say the same about Dboys. It can be a gamble (with Dboys). In the end, gearbox internals are much easier to replace than AK externals. So I would say go for the Dboys RK-01 full steel. Just replace the 7mm bearings, fix the airseal, correct the angle of engagement and shim the gears properly and you have a long lasting AEG both internally and externally. There are always more upgrades you could do if you wish to do so. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask me. I know a ton about these guns and all those modifications.
  6. This is very interesting. If it works properly, I could definitely see it as a viable option for in field communications. I would certainly buy one for myself as would probably 5-10 other people in our club. We have been looking into radios lately and this would be very nice. However, if it works like how I think it does, it would not work in the places we play in. Three problems I see 1. Does this need data coverage to work properly? Due to the nature of airsoft, it is usually in the middle of nowhere (little cellphone coverage) so this would kill it right there. 2. What kind of affect on battery life on the phone would this have? 3. Will this work will everybody else's regular radios? On a side note, does anybody happen to know what kind of headsets you could connect to this PTT?
  7. Don't mess with the motor height unless you have the gearbox open. You will destroy your pinion or bevel gear doing that. You need to do it visually, not by sound. Are you sure the wires are not popping off the motor? Make sure to fully seat the motor connector, better yet, solder the wire right to the motor. Otherwise, Zack gave you a good list to start from.
  8. Yes you would. Any sort of super glue/ CA glue has worked great for me. I would recommend you get the kind that does not dry instantly though. Sometimes you might want to reposition the pad shortly after gluing the two pieces together.
  9. The loadout you IS a blackhawk down loadout. Therefore, you google blackhawk down loadout. http://bit.ly/12m2L1i
  10. Yes you can. The requirement is to have a link back to ASF on the channel or video you are promoting.
  11. What??? Battery voltage has nothing to do with FPS. It also has nothing to do with how much of a spring can be pulled. A stronger spring generally requires a battery with a higher total amp output or a motor with more torque, not more voltage.
  12. Ok, well I will probably head to a surplus store and see if I can find any alice pouches that would work. $100 was just for the pack. I actually like the chest rig a lot, so while I could probably get something else, I don't see myself doing that any time soon. And for a lot of the standard games around here, my midcaps are all I really need and that chest rig is great for carrying them. hmm interesting. Do you ever think the strap get in the way of each other? Is everything pretty secure and comfortable? I actually really like the look of the M.U.L.E. It looks perfect for what I need. There's actually one on ebay right now for $38 buy it now in woodland about 100 miles away from me. I'll do a little more research but I will probably get that. Thanks!
  13. Wow, I almost did business with this guy but I did not end up going through with it. Thanks for the heads up.
  14. So for a while now I have been running the Pantac AK LBT Chest Rig and it has worked out great. A few people in the club and I have been trying to step up our level of play so we went to a milsim mission last Saturday. It has come to my attention that I need to be able to carry water, additional ammo, and food in the field to be effective for 5 hours of play. The images below show what all is available to mount on my rig. So I have two questions: 1. What would be a good backpack/ hydration carrier to use with this vest? I would prefer something that interfaces directly. But if this is not available, what would be comfortable? I'm thinking something along the lines of the Pantac MBSS. Is there any chance the Pantac RRV would work with my vest? My budget is no more than $100. I'm really kind of lost here, so please way in. 2. What sort of pouches could I mount on the sides where I have the carabiner and sharpies? (I'm looking for a small admin pouch or two to store miscellaneous items) Is that ALICE? Could molle pouches be effectively mounted there? Again, I'm pretty lost here, so please way in. Thanks!
  15. I don't care for the looks, but that is more preference than anything else. However, what you spent on the internals is ridiculous. It sounds like you just went for extremely expensive stuff with no regard to quality or function. For example, a king arms high torque is rebrand of the SHS high torque motor which costs about $30 in the US. (terrible motor BTW) A JG gearbox with some elbow grease and a few well thought out upgrade parts would easily out perform and out last that systema joke.
  16. If you think about it like that, so are the 9.6s you listed. You have to do something really stupid to mess up a lipo. I would recommend you go look at a local hobby store, hobbyking, or hobbypartz for a 7.4v lipo with the highest C rating and MAH that will fit in your gun. You could also get an 11.1v lipo if you don't mind doing some extra tuning and possibly replace a few parts on your gun. Either way, most lipos under 2000mah will be in the less than $10 range. FYI a 7.4v lipo will give you about the same rate of fire and wear on your internals as a 9.6, but it will be cheaper and higher quality.
  17. Contact skag187 on this forum(?) or airsoft mechanics. He is hunterseeker5's recommend person for this type of work.
  18. Heavier BBs generally reach their target faster: They also traveler farther: http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/
  19. Hmmm that's odd. Mine pushed in just fine. Like airborne suggested, you might just need to scrape away the paint. A punch pin and a hammer might also do the trick. But if they molded piece as part of the front sight, I think it's time for the dremel
  20. They are just core gears with a spray paint finish on them. Avoid anything with TerminusX on it.
  21. How about a hard case lipo? I run a 4000mah 7.4 harcase lipo in an m4 mag pouch on my stock.
  22. You are doing it the wrong way around. Buy a gun with nice externals, internals are much easier than externals to upgrade, especially on an AK. Look at 3 brands for an AEG AK (In order) 1. LCT 2. VFC 3. DBOYS You cannot go wrong with any of those, they all have awesome steel externals (go for full steel if buying Dboys). The internal quality of all of them is okay, I would recommend you do some tuning like AoE and re-shimming, etc. I won't comment on buying a rail system for an AK.
  23. I am looking to buy the following items: -Large m4 mag style speedloader (KWA version is prefered) For the following parts, I am looking for the basics, JG or other chinese clone part is fine, and I am NOT looking for anything expensive or along the lines of Magpul. -M4 Mag catch -M4 selector switch with all parts (for the above items, an old plastic lower receiver with those items also works) -M4 pistol grip with motor plate (all screws are preferred) -Black 14mm- flashhider -Cheap, simple vertical grip I am looking to buy almost all of those items from one person, so please only offer if you have most of it. If you are in Colorado and will be going to Winter Warrior II on Saturday, I would gladly purchase these items in person. Otherwise, PM me with your offers.
  24. Check the date before you post. This thread is 5 years old.
  25. Well you could rewind and rebalance the whole armature. More realistically, you could try breaking in the motor and cleaning it out.
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