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About Zeronica

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    ASF Immigrant
  1. I have to disagree, JG's (enhanced models) have VERY strong parts, such as their gears, piston, and motor. It's just put together pretty terribly. Learn how to open a gearbox and assemble it correctly and that JG will last for a VERY VERY LONG TIME. On the other hand combat machine internals are really "meh". http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=32876 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5563 (And I actually own one of these, don't know if some TM magic powder got in it or something but <AT> 350 fps it's a freaking sniper rifle with .28s, shoots further than my SR10). If you want an AK and your budget's $150, get a CYMA, if your budget's $250, get a CYMA and a few bags of bbs, if it's $1000, get two CYMAs and a whole truckload of bbs cause those two are going to eat it all up.
  2. Well you have to ask yourself the question, do you want to just LOOK LIKE a sniper, or BE a sniper? If you answered the former than all you need to do is make yourself a ghillie suit and get something with a ridiculously long barrel. If you want to actually BE a sniper, you can become one using anything from a spring pistol to a 70 rps polarstar. What defines an airsoft sniper, or quite possibly any sniper, is his extraordinary patience and ability to stay stealthy. Airsoft sniping isn't about long range shots, it's about moving undetected and having the patience to let the enemy squad walk right by your position, then picking them off one by one. The majority of "300 feet shots from my Really Cool custom marui" are either during target practice or one-in-a-million occasions in airsoft games. The truth is airsoft guns are NOT accurate. The "long-range" of airsoft is still considered "cqb" in real gunfights. And even if you pour thousands of money into a custom project and get it to go 300 feet, it's still not very effective. If you took a shot at that distance, what's going to happen is 1. Wind is going to knock the bb off its course. (Yes, even with .40s) 2. The person is going to move. (500 fps sniper with .40s go 300fps, takes an ENTIRE second for the bb to reach, see how far you can sprint in a second). 3. If you actually made contact, the person is almost always not going to call his hit. First off it's hard to believe he got shot while on the very back of the field. And at the end of 300 feet the shot feels like a slight tap with a finger. With all the gear on, he could mistake it for a leaf in the wind. So no matter what gun you get, expect the majority of your kills to be at close range (that is, if you get any kills at all depending on how stealthy "solid snake" you are). I honestly recommend that you get an aeg, yes bolt actions do offer that feel of realism, but when something goes wrong, you WANT to flick that selector switch to full-auto. The guns you listed are okay, but there are definitely better options. http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=38177 (best performance of all, great range and firepower, NOT upgradable) http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=32876 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5151 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=11176 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3731
  3. As much as my KWA has given me outstanding performance and absolute reliability and durability (never skipped a beat during the thousands of bbs through it, even with a barrel full of dirt when I tripped and landed on the gun), I would suggest the JG. The major drawback of the KWA is the lack of standard parts. The proprietary parts are better and more durable than standard parts, but I just don't like the fact that if my gun were to break, I would have to get everything directly from KWA. The JG will not have the same level of performance as the KWA, but with proper internal work, it will be just as durable. Also with the JG you can start off with the standard M4 look, and later add rails and customize it to your hearts desire (Something I cannot do with my SR10). But that's just my opinion. But if you don't mind proprietary parts, take a look at the KWA CQR. It's a steal for the price, and even with a low FPS it will still shoot circles around the JG. http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=32876 http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=38177 oh and if you get the KWA, make sure to add to your cart the evike "holy cow special" that gives you $26 worth of magazines at only of $5. http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=33011
  4. Before you jump on a sniper rifle as your first airsoft gun, you should read this: the truth about airsoft sniping In a real gunfight a sniper is a valuable asset and force-multiplier to a fireteam. In airsoft, this cannot be any more different. If you're looking to get kills and contribute to the team in an airsoft game, you would be FAR better off with an aeg. Still interested in being that elite marksman who strikes fear into the hearts of his foes? Let me put it in "Call of Duty" terms. Using a stock sniper rifle ($100 - $300) in airsoft is comparable to going "knife-only" in COD. Both require a great deal of stealth and skill, are incredibly satisfying when you succeed in getting a kill, and are generally not very efficient in getting the job done. What if you were to upgrade? Pour hundreds of dead presidents into a custom bolt-action project? Yes you would end up with a rifle that can actually outshoot AEG's, but the slight advantage in range is still not enough to make up for the severe disadvantage in firepower. Occasionally, an airsoft veteran, who is extremely patient and a master in stealth, and should be overseas shooting bad guys, will appear with a $1000 dollar tm vsr and dominate the battlefield. But the majority of airsoft snipers, even those with expensive sniper rifles, to me are just "spawn-loiterers" who spend the entire game trying to hit the guy on the other side of the field while the team is charging in and out of the objective. Enough of my blabbering, although I STRONGLY suggest you get an aeg as a starter gun and move onto snipers once you're become more experienced, you did ask specifically for sniper links. So here are two "not-good-but better-than-everything-else" stock sniper rifles: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=2790 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=9797
  5. Judging by the size of your budget I am going to assume that you are not looking to play two games over the summer and drop airsoft again. You are looking for a long term gun. It needs to be reliable, versatile, and be able to outperform the vast majority of guns on the field (at least that's what I would look for in something that I'd be using for the rest of my bb spraying days). The only gun that would fit those requirements would be a Polarstar. Because nothing else really comes close to it in terms of ANYTHING. Sure the price seems steep at first, but buying a polarstar is like buying THREE mission-specific guns. I say this because you can start with the basic M4 (14.5 barrel), and when funds permit build your own custom upper receivers. My suggestion would be this A 10.5 inch MK18 upper for CQB (35 rps <AT> 320 fps) A 14.5 inch m4 upper for field games (35rps 3-round-burst <AT> 400 fps) A 18/20 inch DMR upper for sniping (semi-only <AT> 550 fps) All you need to do to switch between these three is slap on a different upper, adjust the fcu settings and change your gear appropriately (don't go room-clearing with your mk18 while wearing a ghille suit) Polarstar PR15 EPAR - $640 Polarstar standard air rig - $155 air tank - $170 That sums up $965
  6. A = 20 B = 2 C = 0 D = 2 So I'm basically the a**hole in every movie who goes "DON'T DO ANYTHING TILL I GET THERE" while everyone gets killed.
  7. neither are very good IMO, if you want an AK get THIS For a g36 you can't go wrong with a JG
  8. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3432 JG M4A1 Enhanced, great motor, great gears, great piston, great everything, just TERRIBLE assembly. Learn how to open/put back your gearbox, it's a big part of airsoft anyway, so might as well learn it from the start. Once you learn it, open the gearbox and reshim it, look up videos on how to do it, or just ask around here. Despite what fanboys may say, a well-shimmed JG is FAR superior performance and durability wise than any offering by g&g (and that includes their full metal "proline") and my opinion is unbiased cause I don't own anything from either manufacturers. For "200 feet accuracy", don't worry about FPS, it doesn't really increase range, and the stock JG spring already offers plenty. Upgrade the hopup bucking and use HEAVY bbs. This coupled with some basic marksmanship and I guarantee that you'll be able to keep up with the $900 polarstars and $1600 Systema PTWs. Hop up bucking This is what TRUELY makes a gun accurate , buy PLENTY DO NOT START OFF SNIPING IN AIRSOFT. I don't care if you're a marine scout sniper just back from Afghanistan, you'll be FAR better off with an automatic. Still want to be a "1337" sniper bad*ss? Read THIS
  9. If it's your first or long term gun, get something with a great deal of aftermarket parts (a TM compatible M4 would be ideal). KWA AEGs are rock solid, very reliable, and give great performance. But the lack of aftermarket upgrades for it just doesn't make it a great "primary weapon" for most people. However, if the only aspect of airsoft you're interested in is actually "playing" and don't want to mess with gearbox and whatnot, a KWA with 9.6v is perfect for your needs. Get a VFC. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5730
  10. Very informative article on REAL gunfighting, although it's meant for mostly law enforcement encounters, the second half is more general gunfighting tips. It is written by former delta operator MSG Paul Howe (participated in battle of mogadishu AKA "Black Hawk Down", known as "Sanderson" in the movie). His tips alone doubled my number of kills in games. Article is HERE Also remember that airsoft is a game, in combat you need to be AGGRESSIVE enough in order to survive. In airsoft, all that's going to happen is a walk back to spawn, so there is no limit to how aggressive you can be. But remember, USE YOUR HEAD. You can rest your feet, you can rest your arms, but never give ypur brain a rest, cause if you do, your legs are going to get REALLY tired from all that walking back to spawn.
  11. Sounds great, been looking to join an airsoft team for a while. Could you give me an idea of what dates you guys will be playing so I could meet up with the team? I am really busy currently so I won't be able to attend games as frequently as I would like. Can I also have the name of the Facebook group? Yeah, username is "Zeronica" (bet you couldn't have guessed that!)
  12. I'm 16 and also play frequently at Area 48, would love to join your team.
  13. Another instructional video from a professional shooter He's got a longer rifle so it might help you more than the previous guys I mentioned who treat their carbines like "oversized pistols". This stance is more a balance of speed close quarters and accuracy long range. Trigger control's definitely important. Once a guy got the jump on me with a pistol ten feet away and still missed cause he completely jerked the trigger. I still called it cause I had my AEG and didn't want to shoot him at such close range.
  14. With so many topics focusing on teamwork, tactics and whatnot, people generally focus on "what to shoot" and "what to shoot with", and overlook the subject of "how to shoot". By "how to shoot" I'm talking about the shooting stance. Shooting stance, along with sight picture and trigger control, are the basics and most important aspects of real steal shooting. However, they are generally disregarded in airsoft. This is to be expected. In airsoft you don’t need to worry about muzzle rise and recoil, so why would you need a good shooting stance? Sight picture and trigger control? Heck, when was the last time you held your breath and slowly squeezed off a round at the enemy? Most people I see on the field just point their barrels in whatever direction their teammates are pointed at and hose bb’s down range. Like THIS guy http://www.stardestroyer.net/Armour/Africa...ting/i6fktx.jpg While this guy probably isn’t hitting anything due to the muzzle rise of the AK, this stance is very common and actually pretty effective in airsoft. However, seeing that airsoft is a game of “Milsim”, it is pretty funny to see a bunch of guys dressed in the gear of the most elite fighters today, and shoot their equally elite guns with the shooting stance resembling that of an ape. Right here http://youtu.be/F2ZxC0qVHio If you dress like a Seal, might as well shoot like a Seal. Note that I am not here to teach anyone about anything. The purpose of this post is to shed light on some proven practical techniques in a real combat environment, since airsoft is often used as a training tool for real steel shooters, by using the same techniques for airsoft will allow you to acquire some real combat skills during your airsofting weekends, and when you pick up a real firearm to defend you and your family against zombies (yes there is no doubt that a zombie apocalypse WILL happen), you’ll be able to use it efficiently. Again I am not trying to teach anyone anything. My opinions on the matter are just, my opinions. This post is meant to provoke friendly discussion on the subject matter, which is what I believe this forum is intended for. Bladed Magwell hold : Body bladed towards target, stock usually fully extended, support hand gripping the magazine well. Pros: VERY Natural and comfortable, can hold this way for extended periods of time. Cons: Imagine writing w/ a pencil by holding onto the eraser (as far away from the tip as possible), not exactly easy is it? Same thing with rifles, have very little control over the rifle, make switching from target to target difficult. Recommended to be used only with short barreled rifles like Short AKs(AKS74U, AK105, Beta speznaz), MK18s, and submachine guns) The “Magpul” isosceles stance: I called it “Magpul” stance because Costa is the only real steel shooter I’ve seen using this. However, it’s recently become very popular with airsofters, probably as a combined result of costa’s recent rise to fame and the Magpul dynamics videos. This is also the stance that I have the least knowledge about, so I’m hoping users of the stance will explain to me the advantageous of said stance. As far as I understand the shooter is completely squared towards the target. The stock is not on the shoulder, but on the center of the chest. As a result when you raise the gun the gun doesn’t “come to you”, but you have to stretch your neck downwards to aim through the sights. The stock is collapsed with nose touching the charging handle. The arm is completely extended with the wrist almost blocking the front sight. The rifle is complete supported by muscle as opposed to supported by the skeletonal system(magwell hold). Pros: Definitely more control of the rifle, but this can also be achieved by the modified bladed stance (see below) Cons: Tiring. Since it locks your arms, unable to modify it slightly when shooting around awkwardly shaped cover. Works when you have no gear on, but almost impossible to do when you’re in a “combat load”. Recommended to be used with M4’s dressed up in Magpul furniture? Or maybe a Masada. Just use this stance with anything that has to do with magpul. Modified Weaver Stance Kyle Lamb (Former Delta) Larry Vickers Paul Howe (Delta, as “Sanderson” in movie Black Hawk Down) Jason Falla (Former Australian SAS) Kyle defoor (Former Navy Seal) This is definitely my favorite stance, very popular amongst professional shooters, and is pretty much a compromise between the “magpul” stance and the bladed magwell. The support arm is extended, giving more control of the rifle, but not locked, making it more comfortable to hold. The stock is fully extended and rests well in the shoulder. The body is neither bladed nor square, but a compromise, much like a boxing stance. This is very stable and makes it easy to move around. Extended hold allows rapid engagement of multiple targets up close, and the bladed body makes it easy to twist your body to shoot around cover. Close quarter rapid engagement: Shooting from cover: Recommended to be used with just about anything. If you disagree with me, then great, tell me why I’m wrong and why you prefer to shoot a certain way. If you do agree, that’s fine too.
  15. (torture test) Some sources claim it can go up to 80 rps, but that's completely redundant since no mag can feed at that rof. I also heard accuracy is amazing (consistency), goes 250 feet with stock vfc hopup and barrel.
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