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About leonvx671

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  1. JG G36C's use version 3 switch assemblies. http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/pa...ont-wiring.html That's just an example, so just browse up on some front wired switch assemblies for ver. 3
  2. My mp5 sd6 shoots at 360 with .25s so should be getting 380 with .20s. No regrets getting it. Definitely handy with cqb and the retractable stock is great to move around with. Though solid stock or retractable is your preference. Like everyone said, it's built like a tank...haven't had a problem with mine but I know its a bit tedious just to get to the gearbox...I plan to sometime when I figure out what to do with it. I'd go with a high speed motor and downgrade the spring to m100 but I run mid caps so it wouldn't be practical cause I'd run out after a couple of bursts.
  3. With the full metal...you're kind of out of luck. Better yet to save for it. Otherwise you can get a decent combat machine with the funds you have now...without the metal body.
  4. First part...no. Second part, if the front pin is missing you might have alignment issues. If you're missing the rear pin then it can prolly split apart with a good push.
  5. Cutting off a sector tooth? Why would you? I've successfully done the sorbo/aoe without having to cut any of the sector gear's tooth off. You really gotta do this by eye. You have to make sure the first tooth of the sector gear engages the first large tooth of the piston every time with no chance of hitting any other piston tooth before it. If you turn the gear and you see it engage any other tooth...odds are you need to shave off enough material off that particular piston tooth without shaving off the whole tooth. I would explain more but I'll just direct you to this link. http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Angle-En...nt-t221337.html
  6. I'm sure softshells loadouts are only used in colder climates or seasons...otherwise it'll just heat up the person fast causing even faster fatigue and dehydration... I wouldn't trade looks for turning myself into an oven...
  7. I don't see why not...but those stocks are overpriced...especially that CTR stock.
  8. IMO suppressors actually serve a purpose assuming the setup is tuned to its smoothest settings (shimming, AoE, sorbo). I am aware that a lot of the sound comes from the winding of the gearbox...but once you perfect shimming, a good amount of the sound that comes from the barrel itself can be deadened with a suppressor with some chicken wire and a layer of foam around it. In any case I would just get the flash hider and suppressor.
  9. - multicam vs. woodland in forest - multicam in what looks like desert
  10. Definitely would go for the JG mp5. As for a pistol, a good non blow back would still be good for the budget. Y&P pistols are good for what it is.
  11. Np...lol it always helps to read the stickies before you say you can't find anything. Good luck
  12. Radius corners - http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Rounding...de-t220720.html 16 gauge wire is just wire that's sized "16 gauge" ask one of the salesman at home depot or some other electrical place. Deans connectors is just another kind of connector besides the stock tamiya ones and promotes a better connection.
  13. Agreed with rain, it's much cheaper to solder wires yourself. As far as parts go, not sure why you would have to consider changing out everything internally. As long as you reinforce whatever is plastic then you're pretty solid. Bushings...metal teeth piston...High Torque Motor (maybe Lonex or SHS)...Metal air nozzle (not really required unless you're looking for a better seal with an O-ring inside of it) Teflon tape your cylinder head, Sorbo, AoE correction, perfect your shimming...and I can't see why your gun can't last for another 4 years or more.
  14. http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Aeg-Upgr...ide-t97249.html <----here would be a nice place to do some research...I'm sure xcr is just based off an m4
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