Jump to content

Ten-Ring

Member
  • Content Count

    96
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    %

Everything posted by Ten-Ring

  1. For some reason, it seems like the striker pin does not have enough energy to actuate the valve any longer. I have not perceived any difference in the rebound force of the bolt carrier from when it was working. And visually, the strike pin looks physically intact. I stuck my finger in the magwell and put it up against the pin while dry firing, and the striker seemed to function ok, although I noticed that there is a bit of up and down play on pin itself. I suppose there could be enough deflection there to keep the pin from properly depressing the valve, but I doubt it. Im at a loss, It just refuses to fire now, And I cant think of anything that changed between when it was operating fine, to when it quit. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  2. For some reason, it seems like the striker pin does not have enough energy to actuate the valve any longer. I have not perceived any difference in the rebound force of the bolt carrier from when it was working. And visually, the strike pin looks physically intact. I stuck my finger in the magwell and put it up against the pin while dry firing, and the striker seemed to function ok, although I noticed that there is a bit of up and down play on pin itself. I suppose there could be enough deflection there to keep the pin from properly depressing the valve, but I doubt it. Im at a loss, It just refuses to fire now, And I cant think of anything that changed between when it was operating fine, to when it quit. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  3. If u replaced the inner barrel, the hop-up bucking may not have seated correctly. Ive had it happen where everything looked ok as I inserted the inner barrel into the hop chamber, but it I managed to stretch it out of place before it was seated. Consequently, the bucking lips didnt have enough contact with the bbs and any left in front of the nozzel just rolled out after I was done shooting
  4. Ive had an ongoing debate with a few of my fellow local airsofters. Theres a group that believes that having the tighter coils facing forward ensures the most energy transfer at the end of the stroke. And theres a group that insists that the opposite is better, tighter coils at the spring guide means the most energy is imparted while the bb is still in the barrel. It all sounds plausible in the common room after a skirmish, but is there any real validity to what they are saying? Does it even really make a difference which side of the spring faces forward? Could somebody shed some light on this subject?
  5. Selector chip thing? See, I recently just acquired a CA MP5 also. And im kinda experiencing similar problems with my selector. When coming out of safe, I can barely feel the index points, and I cant feel them at all going the other way. And often, back in safe I can still pull back the trigger even if the electrical is cut-off. Could you describe what this selector chip thing looks like? Is there one on both sides?
  6. Load-out goes the other way around, actually....... Primary= Secondary= When you need your secondary to outshine your long-rifle= <AT>turtletech- It may have been cancelled by DARPA, but the G11 model is still the future of chemical based projectile weapons. In the unlikely event that directed energy weapons become 'man-portable' in the next decade. we will all see a move towards case-less ammo. Just as sure as we will all be driving electric cars
  7. When the extent of your experience is video games, I suppose its easy to think that. the next time you have the chance to do a 10-mile forced march to an objective, carrying either 300rds of 5.56 compared to 300rnds of 7.62 remember to tell yourself "it makes no difference" Guess what was the biggest reason the M60 was phased out for the SAW? (need a hint?)
  8. The reason its done is to maintain a commonality in the ammunition. (Between your primary and your side arm) 9mm in this case: 5.56 NATO in this one,,,,,,, And since 45ACP is more popular in the states, HK made this kit to conver the 416 to accept UMP magazines With airsoft though, youre looking for a commonality in magazines. Specially if you are running strict Mil-sim rules. I know certain groups that use G36's and M4's exclusively all using M4 mid caps, this does give them tactical and logistical advantages on the field. There is some merrit to this idea.
  9. You don't even have to do any soldering, one of the nice things about the GR series, all you have to do is run the battery connector thru the stock tube instead of the foregrip. As a matter of fact, you can achieve all these GR16 variants with the same wires,,, What you probably will need is one of these (Crane or Full Stock) Model No : G-05-034 from G&G Link: G&G parts
  10. Fortunately, You DID know! I though that lever was just an alignment pin for the hand-guard. Thank you Alberty!!! your encyclopedic knowledge is spot on!
  11. Hello. I just picked up my first MP5. It's a Classic Army BT5 A5 as far as I can tell. (got it used from a parent selling sons stuff) It didnt come with any documentation but it looks exactly like this.... anyway I found the manual online and according to this page pulling back the cocking lever shold open up the shell ejection port. But the one on my receiver looks like its cast as part of the upper and just for looks. Could I have mis-identified the gun? At any rate, any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading.
  12. This is absolutely accurate. I learned this the hard way when I bought an aftermarket metal receiver for my GR-15. The two biggest differences are the space beneath the top rail, and the channel in the right side for the 'forward assist' actuated spring release. Now don't get me wrong, its possible to get a G&G blowback gearbox in another receiver. but all the trouble you have to go thru 'Dremel-ing' out the inside to accomodate the blow-back mechanisim and spring release, you're better off spending the money on a G&G TopTech reciever, which is aluminum (or magnesium) and its guaranteed to fit any of the GR series gearboxes weather blow-back or not. On a parting note, the ICS blow-back M4's are actually clones of the G&G design. and G&G gearboxes fit into them with little modification
  13. If you need to use someone else's charger that has a tamiya connector, just make yourself an adapter. Take the tamiya connector you took off the battery, and put a male Dean's on the other side.
  14. Ok nix the plasti-dip, ...... and use the real thing. Just brush on the exposed part of the connectors You can actually use it in the motor And not worry about thermal breakdown. And Im talking about motors you cant lift without a fork-lift
  15. This stuff: works great for insulating irregularly shaped objects You would not even have to do the motor plate, just brush the stuff on the exposed metal parts of the wires. comes in camo, if you want to waterproof your guns And it peels off when you get tired of it. So many uses, Its like liquid duct tape
  16. Masada gearbox: essentialy a V2 with motor cage Unfortunately, you can only fit it in one of these..... But ive been told, MOE/PTS grips are engineered to perform as a 'motor cage' for M4's with a standard V2 gearbox....
  17. True. My stock motor that came with my gr15 developed a dead spot on the armature. It would work great until the motor brushes stopped on that spot. then it would just stop like the battery was disconnected. Get this plate off,.... Pull the red lead off the motor and connect the positive lead of your multi meter. touch the negative to the black wire still connected to the motor. Make sure the battery is hooked up, now pull the trigger. If you multi-meter reads the same amount of voltage as whatever battery you are using. then your electrical is good all the way to the battery. If the meter reads a lower voltage than your battery, that means you probably have a bad connection somewhere. (start at the selector plste)
  18. CA8-2 If you can get a hold of one of these, Its an awesome place to start. (I see them for sale on Craigs list every now and then and they average around $100) Otherwise you can start with a TMG36C and get this.... Star conversion using G36C I love my SL9. and it works with the standard, K, and C front end. plus Ive found that the V3 gearbox really lends itself to the DMR roll. And with a drum mag,....... It becomes a hell of a support weapon!
  19. Here's One: The M2 50 Cal developed by Gamepod Skunk Works was the first 100% accurate replica of the Ma Duce ever built, since it's official launch at the ASH Bash there have been numerous companies that now produce the Ma Duce, the most notable of which is the Piper precision gas version (Nice job Paul!) Built from the ground up as a vehicle mounted or ground placed Heavy Support Weapon. The M2 allows the operator to lay down some serious cover fire and at nearly 30 rounds a second it does just that! Due to the labor intensive build process we will only be releasing a few per year for retail sale, although keep an eye out you may just see one at your local field keeping the other sides heads down. M2 Specifications: Power: Gas or Electric <AT> 500FPS Ammo Capacity: 10,000 Round Box Mag Fire Control: Electric Range 250' Gun Length: 61.42" Gun Weight: 70 LBS Mount Platform Weight: 50LBS GAMEPOD SKUNKWORKS (builders)
  20. Generally, it's either the cutoff or the trolley. If you can, don't just replace, upgrade.....(both) CUTOFF: If you have some money to spend, get a stainless one $20 SWITCH: One that's designed for high current loads (fiberglass composite instead of ABS plastic) $20
  21. Chances are....It's either that or the trolley (I suggest replacing both) CUTOFF: If you have some money to spend, get a stainless one $20 SWITCH: One that's designed for high current loads (fiberglass composite instead of ABS plastic) $20
  22. Check the switch trolley where the cut-off lever contacts it. When I lost semi-auto on my M4, it turned out that the bottom of the trolley got pretty beat-up and worn. So even when the cut-off lever tried to engage there wasn't enough surface left for it to work properly. That 'L' shaped piece (top-right) will be messed-up Replacing the trolley fixed the problem.
  23. Like this...? 1911.....Needs to have a top-rail on the slide Otherwise, you need a saddle-mount that attaches to the lower....
  24. Link* Prometheus EG inner barrel <AT> AIRSOFTGI Manufacturer: Prometheus Material: Stainless Steel Bore Diameter: 6.03mm Gun Type: M4 Barrel Length: 363mm
  25. GR4G26 Parts Manual PDF Here is a link to all available G&G manuals, I believe you can use the barrels off of any 'GR' series rifle (except the GR14, of course) G&G manual Index
×
×
  • Create New...