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Everything posted by ZaCkOX

  1. The hole even if blocked will lose compression. The problem is the o-ring cannot form to it very well as it passes. FPS loss? Not sure but I can tell you it does that. You need some tech advice on checking compression?
  2. I don't think suggesting a full cylinder to change the FPS purposely is a good idea... I think the best thing to do is get a stronger spring and short stroke.
  3. Soon mean you already bought it? I hated mine to death and finally sold it.
  4. Did you check the bb stopper by hand with a bb?
  5. Sounds like nub touches too much.
  6. The way I did it was drill a hole at the location through the body. Then insert and push the screw through the body into the location and screw it in place. Put a velcro sticker over the hole. You can remove the sticker and get to the screw at anytime.
  7. Screwing it on makes the accuracy and air compression best it can get. It was a good decision to do it. Shooting that gun after fixing all issues, it was pretty accurate even with full-auto.
  8. Best to you use super glue for plastic to plastic next time. Anyway your on the right track but you need to probably do a few more modifications. I have videos on youtube about going through the same process you are now. My laptop battery is about to die so here a quick search in my channel: You can make the chamber work perfectly but takes modification.
  9. If you have to shave down the cut-off lever something is not right. Why didn't you pm me about this? Are you using a flash light instead of just looking at the sector gear? The gearbox needs to be closed. Open it will seem like the gear rubs against the cut-off lever.
  10. 40 bucks for a trigger you will have to modify yourself??? You got to be joking.
  11. Fusion Engine? just wire through the buffer tube or in the pistol grip then. I'm getting confused with what your doing. It says GBB, is this an AEG or GBB?
  12. Turn the adjustment screw up a few times. I have seen some stock G&Gs with the motor's pinion too low.
  13. Argh Facepalm myself. THIS IS GBB!!! The title doesn't say GBB.
  14. VFC stock is unique so no it wouldn't work unless the piece was made pretty much the same. The VFC Scars' have a hinge with metal connectors inside it. This is how the stock is wireless.
  15. But the stock air nozzle is a solid piece. I just inserted an o-ring in mine. It hasn't broke and that gun has been used a lot. Great compression, no feeding problems. There is no reason to throw out the gearbox unless you are Polarstar'ing it. You want it fixed?
  16. It is one a kind. Do you need some serious help with the gun? PM me.
  17. Threading is positive last I remember, positive I think is clockwise? Spring guide is unique... the original might be better made then what I use. I think I got the chinese clone copy with ball bearings but the legs were pot metal so I had to go crazy and make my own steel legs. The video for it is quite interesting:
  18. Would it be possible to show a picture of where the sector gear stops after semi and/or full-auto bursts? I could of sworn from memory the cut-off lever is hit in the bottom right quadrant of the bushing but in the picture the switch is to the bottom left.
  19. Oh it's safe. I could leave the bolt in however eventually it will break the bolt. The bolt can't fall into the gearbox. I just wanted to leave the piece together so I can get it made CNC maybe at some point. The only MAJOR problem with having blowback is locking the charging handle. DON'T DO THAT. If you fire the gun, BAM, you blew the piston. Other than that, it isn't that bad. The bolt design isn't the greatest but if it were CNC I don't think it would break easy. I can't really comment how much more the brushes are worn but I've done a lot of guns with AB. It is all I use. Basic mosfets with AB heat up more than the MERF does. The MERF doesn't have a heatsink but it does have temperature fuse so if somehow it did get too hot it would turn off. I have never had that happen. I do change the wiring and set bevel-to-pinion so I don't have problems. I suggest just ditch the micro-switch and epoxy or JBweld in the new switch. Position it so the trolley presses it and run tests before gluing it in place. In this case you wouldn't have to solder the trigger gates wires because they are already pre-made. All you would do is wire from the mosfet to the motor and done. In my opinion the hop-up parts to all G36 type guns are cruddy. Maybe that was commented. I believe the chamber is fine but the nub part I dislike a lot. You have to finely shave it if you plan to do a flat nub install. I would suggest doing the accuracy last or first and not everything together. You will need to focus on one thing at a time. But the most IMPORTANT thing is replace the piston head. I've had 2 of them explode. The pieces can break other parts. That was the weakest thing in the gun. You could change out the bearings too. There is only 2 on the bevel gear. If it is too much to handle you can always pm me the issue or send it in. I consider the gun a favorite to work on.
  20. Very impressive. I really like that a person can change the fuse himself/herself. Big +++. I don't think you explained what the spring on the board is for? Closing the gearbox with even pressure? How safe is the cut-off switch if the sector gear somehow did go backwards from say possibly a strong spring?
  21. No, the micro-switch is completely gone, replaced out. Active Braking always get a bad rep??? I guess you didn't take my suggestion seriously. If you heard the hop-up chamber is junk then tell me who said and why... The JG MK36 hop-ups would be much worse off. However this is the CV which maybe the hop-up chamber is lower quality than my Ares G36C. R-hop can be applied to this setup.
  22. It is all about parts and how they are tweaked. JG MK36's have horrible hop-up chambers. The plastic is super thin and will break pretty easily. Takes time to get spare parts on those from Hong Kong. No one really carries G36 hop-up chambers with parts in the US. Yes the gun you have can be teched. Just for proof of it: However I would suggest not keeping it blowback. The bolt is made of pot metal. You can see it works but later I took the bolt out so I wouldn't risk breaking the 2nd bolt I installed. A lot of pros to having non-blowback anyway. The piston head MUST BE REPLACED. You will need to be careful of the tappet plate rail as the sector gear's tappet delay chip can knick it. I dremeled the rail down so I didn't have a problem. You can mosfet the gun however my micro-switch stopped functioning and I could of fixed that but it just didn't seem reliable to me. I installed a new trigger housing SHS and that was VERY ADVANCED. I don't suggest that however there is this which I would suggest: http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/produc...catid=&cat= The reason is because it has AB, is small to fit in the handguard and also comes with a switch you can pretty easily install in place of the micro-switch.
  23. Actually a mosfet can be wired to the micro-switch and a lot of the parts are TM compatible. This is Ares or S&T?
  24. But you say you insert the pin and then hear grind... that to me means the gearbox is locked more downward. Where else is the grinding crazy noise coming from???
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