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ninovoa

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About ninovoa

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    ASF Immigrant
  1. If youre on a budget you can always go with a JG bar 10. It may run you a liiiiiitle over 100 dollars but its a gun that you can keep forever. With a handful of mods you can make a stock bar 10 a real competitor vs AEG's. You can also upgrade it in the future when you have some more money to spend on airsoft.
  2. This is true however the gun assembled would cost a tad ($170 vs $150) more than it would unassembled (Link). I also figured that a G&P outer barrel was probably nicer quality than the G&G one, so why not. Apart from that does everything else sound good? Is G&G pretty much an acceptable choice? Are there any other mods/upgrades I should look in to?
  3. My friend recently asked me to put together a rifle for him under $200. This is what I plan on getting him G&G Challenge Kit wired to the rear G&P Barrel assembly Handguards G&P Nunchuck Battery Tenergy Smart Charger I may need to buy a weaker spring but I don't know for sure yet ------------------------------------------------ That's what I plan on purchasing however I plan on doing some internal work on the gun as well including: -Regreasing and shimming -R-hop (Got plenty of source material from my Bar-10 ) -Cylinder polishing -AOE Correction -Silicone Dampner Link -Possibly a mosfet (Still gotta learn about these) -Barrel polishing ------------------------------------------------- My goals are to make an all-around gun that is: Is cost Effective Good quality Has consistent fps (Accuracy) Low FPS (350 for CQB) Some feedback on this setup would be greatly appreciated In order to make this post less boring: here is a picture of my 1911 for your enjoyment :)
  4. In my opinion if you want to have a VSR/Bar-10 that shoots over 450 fps or so you are better off getting the JG version of the gun because you save some money which you can put towards upgrades. What you get with the TM VSR/BAR 10 -A damn good hopup system superior (when it comes to tolerances and whatnot) to the JG's -a presumably better barrel quality (im not 100% sure about this one but you can do your research for this one) As a note for making a quality sniper let me inform you that throwing in quality parts to a bolt action sniper will not automatically make it a great gun. There are many MANY mods you can do to your gun which can improve consistency and accuracy before you need to upgrade the power. If you ask me this is what I would do if I were you: -Buy a JG bar 10 [not g-spec because the barrel length increases efficiency (ill explain in a moment)] -Buy a silencer that extends the barrel such that you can use a 550mm inner barrel (will explain in a moment) -Buy an aftermarket 550mm barrel (quality > barrel inner diameter) -Upgrade to a 90-degree trigger (zero triggers are 90-degree triggers and have all around better trigger pull, bolt push) Ive heard the action army trigger is pretty great and it even comes with a piston! ($135) -Upgrade your piston to a metal 90-degree piston. Stock pistons are 45 degrees and wont work with a 90 degree trigger mechanism (and they are made of plastic that cant support much more than the stock spring) -And of course upgrade your spring and spring guide. However, like I said, your gun will still need some work after that. Now you begin to modify the gun. Here's a list of mods you can search on Google to find out more about. These are ordered from most important to least important (This is in my opinion. If you disagree post about it) -Homemade barrel spacer(s) (you can technically buy these but they're rather easy to make on your own) -Anti-blowby rings or anti-blowby sleeve (these are paramount for getting consistent FPS output which also gives you consistent shot trajectory) -Floss and Teflon around the hop up rubber (this is only if you don't do the anti-blowby rings/sleeve. This is an easier alternative to the ABB rings but also inferior quality) -Top-dead-center Hop up adjuster (Also known as the "TDC" mod) This corrects a flaw in the VSR hopup design and makes sure the BB's get the perfect 12 o'clock spin and not the 1 o'clock spin that VSR rifles are known for. -Longrange Barrel Mod (LRB Mod) This mod has quite a bit of explanation so ill let you find out what this does on your own -Polish the inner walls of your cylinder. Just like in AEG's this increases consistency. Do it. -Port the stock cylinder head (not very important but very easy!) -Clay stock mod: Fill the stock with clay (the kind that doesnt harden) This helps balance the gun and can help reduce the vibrations in general (Again, not very important but very easy) That's about all I can think of right now but that should get you started at least. I promised I would explain why a 550mm barrel is what you should use so here I go... Basically the VSR cylinder is very large. In fact it is so large that when you shoot a BB there is still a considerable amount of air coming out of the barrel after the BB has left the barrel. This is fine however it means that the gun is not fully using all the air its pushing out. It has become known to VSR users that the stock cylinder (non-bore up type) performs best with 550-555mm barrel. So imagine you two identical Bar-10's (same spring, same piston etc.) with the only exception being that one has a 430mm barrel (length of a non g-spec bar 10) and the other has a 550mm barrel. If you were to chrono the two guns you would find that the one with the 550mm barrel would have a higher FPS that the 430mm. This is because of the 550mm barrel gives the bb more time in the barrel to accelerate. Chew on that for a while and if it doesn't make sense research it on the forums. Another difference between the gun with the 550mm barrel is that it will also be quieter than the other because it has less excess air rushing out of the barrel when you shoot (also a benefit) Here are a couple helpful picture that can help you understand the difference between 45 and 90 degree trigger mechs: 45 degree mechanism 90 degree mechanism I know it was an earful but I hope I at least helped a little!
  5. Im not a pro at this stuff but from the looks of it the VPR comes with a delta-ring setup and the RIS you want to add uses a different system (I don't know what that kind is called) Hopefully somebody with some M4 experience can chime in with what you need to do to make that rail work for you but I imagine you would have to remove the outer barrel and replace the delta ring with something compatible with that rail. Hope I get the ball rolling for you as I'm looking forward to seeing a nicely modded VPR (never really liked the Magpul look :P) As for the scope I recommend a 4x fixed zoom scope with mil dots all around like this scope I would NOT recommend a range-estimating scope like this one as it makes it difficult to use the mildots below the center (which is the main function of the mil dots) If you do some simple measurements at your house you can use mil-dots as a range estimator just fine. On another note: I prefer fixed zoom to variable because there are less variables involved when it comes to estimating how much you need to compensate for BB drop (the more you zoom the lower the bb will land from the scope's POV) Anyways that's my point of view on scopes (no pun intended)
  6. Oh goodness, sorry for the late replies, but here it is. On imgur I can choose to get the direct link like this: http://I.imgur.com/lxmNr4K.jpg But whenever I use that the image comes up as a hyperlink. However if I use the (img)----(/img) tags I am not allowed to publish the post >.< Well that's strange indeed . It worked here for some reason (I hate problems that don't happen while trying to fix them >.<) Well anyways this issue seems to have sorted itself out on its own but regardless, thank you guys for taking the time to help me :) Keep your eyes peeled for a mod guide for the A&K/Bravo 1892
  7. Hey guys, I posted a thread earlier this month and I had trouble having the pictures show up in the forum. I could post links to the pictures but when using the "img" tags the website tells me that I can't use img tags :( Please help me as I will soon be posting a mod guide for the A&K 1892 and I would like the pictures to show up directly on the page :) I use imgur.com as my picture hosting site. Thank you :D
  8. Double post (huge apology) but they were posted reasonably close together (not a shameless bump) But where would you even get one of those scopes? Also something that I didn't understand was that I thought lever action rifles would have a LER (long eye relief) scope in order to not interfere with the ejected casing. I don't know how much you know about the real steel but that's one thing that I don't understand about the proper scope.
  9. Yea my link somehow got broken too >:( But I thought of a potential reason for the mystery valve. My theory is that it may be a secondary place to put the fill valve for shorter versions of the gun (the barrel and magazine tube are in two parts that split at about the halfway point. I'll take and post a picture when I can) A&K or whichever Chinese company actually makes the gun may have plans in the future to release a shorter version of the gun. I know there's a guy on YouTube that made a shorter version of the A&K (my model) rifle, chances are he used this feature to his advantage and plugged up the open end of the magazine tube. Here's a link to the video: Pictures of the gun will be posted soon as I can get them up (sorry)
  10. Your link doesnt work D: And yea that might be the issue but I still cant figure out any way to open the thing up It doesnt seem to unscrew like fill valves normally do.. Or then again I might not be trying hard enough. But yea if you could get your link working I'd love to see it :D! Edit: I did a google search for "9386392_1.jpg" the image you had at the end of your link and I think I found what you were talking about, is it this? http://media.liveauctiongroup.net/I/7832/9...8CCAB7CC8948BB0 I also found this which is a bit closer to what I'm planning on doing: http://www.bssauction.com/Schedule/2012-01...rtl%20Scope.JPG
  11. Good advice, but the water test showed that the gas was being leaked through the center hole of the piece not the sides And about the rail: I know it looks bad now but I have a scope I want to use for it and this was the only way to do it D: The rail adapters are in the mail but here is what is should look like... http://I.imgur.com/lQvn7uf.jpg http://I.imgur.com/o4qSfeC.jpg Have I redeemed myself at least a little D:? lol
  12. So ive been working on my A&K 1892 and I was running into a problem/question. When I gas up the gun it would leak in a few places. I fixed almost all of those leak spots with one exception. Behind the handguard there is a valve looking thing that looks like a fill valve but actually isnt. It doesnt have the same internal parts as a fill valve and I cant figure out if it can even open up. It looks like a plug but when I gas the gun to a certain point it starts letting out propane like crazy. After a certain point though the gas flow lessens to a very slow rate. My guess is that the piece is a safety release valve of some kind that may be a little too "safe" for its own good. I was thinking of sealing this port with an epoxy but I wanted to get the community's input before I do anything potentially stupid. Please share your thoughts :) http://I.imgur.com/sbSVrYB.jpg?1 Above is my gun <3 http://I.imgur.com/CBzl6PT.jpg?1 Handguard slid forward http://I.imgur.com/Pw2bn4g.jpg?1 Close-up of the part in question http://I.imgur.com/PJrvxyE.jpg?1 After the gun loudly let out gas from the piece I discovered that it still let out gas even when no hissing noise was audible... Its difficult to see but there is a bubble in the picture :p P.S. How do you get the img tags to work I always have trouble with this.
  13. Alright, it's a late response but here it is, I bring pictures: This first picture is of the fill valve next to a normal male USB plug. I don't have a small ruler that is appropriate for the picture so I figured this would give a pretty standard item which could be used for scale. http://I.imgur.com/eCVVk0F.jpg?2 http://I.imgur.com/YdjvFdw.jpg?1 http://I.imgur.com/g8zBFdS.jpg?1 Grrr, the website is giving me grief about the pictures so I just left them as links. Oh well.
  14. <AT>Guges: part of the problem is that I don't know where to buy the replacement part for the gun. At least on evike and airsoftgi don't have the part :/ Also, remember the gun is an 1892 Lever action rifle where the gas is filled in the magazine tube making it difficult to do a submersion test but instead I filled the gas chamber and dripped a few drops of water on the valve and it seemed to be coming out of the center-most hole of the valve. This makes me think that the internal o-ring is the culprit. Maybe Renegadecow's lighter fix will end up solving it but I guess we'll have to wait and see.
  15. <AT>Renegadecow: Thanks for the lighter tip, Renegade! I'll be sure to try that out and let you know how it goes. <AT>Guges: I can't say with 100% certainty that the leak is coming from the threads or the part where gas flows through but I'll be sure to try out your method as well seeing as it can only help the gun overall. Thanks! I'll be sure to post up an update when I can. I'll also post pictures if the fill valve itself to help determine which kind it is.
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