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About SaintApoc

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    ASF Immigrant
  1. Wow, what an incredibly great response! Thank you so much! I'm gonna spend a little more and go PDI then!
  2. I have an Umarex H&K SL9 (650mm brass inner barrel). I am looking to upgrade to stainless steel and am trying to figure out what the best route to go is. These are my two choices: Prometheus 6.03mm PDI 6.08mm Can anyone validate if those are reliable distributors and/or if I am correct in assumed brand name? If I get a 6.03mm, where can I find 5.95mm bbs that are PERFECTLY ROUND? Basically, what is the recommended (preferably bio-degradable) 5.95mm bb brand? If I get a 6.08mm, what is the recommended (preferably bio-degradable) 6.00mm bb brand? Will the Tokyo Marui barrels fit in non TM brands?
  3. Yeah, I started doing research on GBBR's and was quite turned off by all the information. I have full intentions of selling this thing and buying myself an AEG. Now, moving back a little bit to gearboxes. I've never understood the necessity of high ROF. Sure, a laser of bbs is pretty intimidating, but it sounds to me like a waste of ammo if it's 1 shot that takes the target out of the match. Is there not plenty of snipers who do just fine on bolt action? I don't see why an AEG with a godly ROF is so ideal. I can see if accuracy is all good, then "why not?" but it just seems to me like it would put a lot of wear on the gun. Is not the advantage of ROF negated by the fact that only one round has to hit the target? It would make sense that the chance of hitting that target per unit of time would increase with a higher ROF, but there's gotta be a limit where you're not increasing those chances by much with every successive bps you add. I can see a slow shooting gun being at a severe disadvantage, but an average gun with good trigger response and precision accuracy should be able to stand up to something with an insane rof, no (Assuming both players are even in terms of strategy)? How is a super-high ROF gun considered to outperform? What am I missing about high ROF? If I'm not going to upgrade my gearbox, then what's the point in knowing how to work on it OTHER THAN if I have to repair it (at which point I would just either get a new gearbox or bring it to an airsmith)? I would think the life of a gearbox for a user whose ideals reside in accuracy (not spraying) would last much longer and therefore the cost of repair/replacement would be outweighed by the time invested (whereas with a high ROF gun, maintenance would be much more often and costly).
  4. Ah, well then it feels like it's a very strong plastic that I personally do not expect to cause me any problems in terms of durability (unlike those cheap-o airsoft guns at flea markets that you can't nudge the wrong way). As far as internals go, I have a limit to how much I want to work on a gearbox. I am DEATHLY afraid of opening up a gearbox to replace gears, spring, etc. I am not looking to out-perform, just to be able to play. Assuming I want to keep my GBBR (for sake of not wanting to pack it up and ship it out somewhere to get my money's worth) can a hop-up (that is, an r-hop+wide bore barrel + nub (not sure which nub was the best)) increase the accuracy enough to save this gun (that is, be able to hit a man-sized target with .23's at at least 100 feet 8/10 shots), assuming that I also use a CASV? I suppose that sort of question could be answered by just trying it out. I feel like this gun is just beneath the "able to play" since it will not be hitting where I am aiming. [71 paces with a 11 3/4" boot = 21.19 meters. Didn't even make 30 meters. 43 degrees F (current temp). Grouping is pretty bad, not sure if it's even worth posting (let's just say in the very least, they hit the paper). I tried with both .23's and .25's as well as adjusting the hop up (which apparently is either going to drop bb's or make them fly upward; can't find the middle ground).] To get back on topic, I have to ask another question, since I feel that I'm not fully understanding). If the barrel is not tied to the upper receiver, (that is, the outer-barrel has play when the handguard takes lateral force), despite metal being more rigid, wouldn't metal bodies still have the same problem? I can't imagine the plastic is actually warping at all, but rather the fact that the top rail across the handguard and the upper receiver are not one piece. Oh, and as for the EGLM... Since it is not adding lateral force, how is it exacerbating the issue? I could see it creating vertical force, but I cannot determine how much of an issue that is compared to horizontal.
  5. This is my first GBBR, and I see what you mean, haha. I feel like the fps drop with each successive shot really throws out the value of the gun altogether, everything else aside. It's like an increasing handicap. I see now why gas-regulated guns are preferable. Perhaps I should stick with AEGs (which I am more familiar with). Don't quit know how to tell the difference between polymer and plastic, but it's most certainly not metal. If by "delta ring" you mean the outer ring that makes it significantly easy to remove the handguard, then I regret to inform you (and myself) that my gun does not have one. the hanguard is locked in place by means of the barrel (which I find to be outrageously counter-intuitive). In order to relieve pressure off of the outer-barrel (and thereby relieving pressure off of the inner-barrel), I would have to lock the handguard to the upper receiver (by the rail... perhaps with a riser, rail cover, or an optic locked to both. This would also mean that I would have to return the handguard back to its original position, instead of upside-down). Of course, the CASV sounds like a much better solution. It does have that metal insert and it does attempt to brace itself in that manner. I don't even need to do this. I can see the front ("iron-"?) sight move in relation to the scope. It seems like a small amount of play, but then I have to keep in mind how that translates over a distance. Circumference dramatically increases as distance (radius) increases with the same angle. The only way to ensure accuracy with respect to the straightness of the barrel is to have zero play. If I intend to stick with the GBBR system, then the CASV sounds like a better option. Also, that G&P has a greater price-tag. I assume you feel it's worth its price? And I am also assuming you're referring to the AEG, not the GBB. It DOES help, thank you! And I will remember in the future that you are human.
  6. You are correct! It was just a quick fix; although admittedly I didn't think to use a rail riser. You are not the only one. I noticed it when I posted and said "huh.... guess I should use the zoom instead of bringing the camera close" It IS just lens distortion. I cannot see how one could flex that without flexing the rest of the handguard or breaking it altogether. I also cannot see what purpose it would serve to bend the rails. I'm having trouble understanding the science behind what you're saying, so bare with me (and note that I trust your discernment, since you are well renown across the forums). Is that true for both AEG and GBB Combat Machines (noting that this is a GBBR)? Since I removed the locking mechanism (as shown in the second pic), the handguard had large play in it. After adding the EGLM, it locked itself in place because the magwell on the launcher is a perfect fit around the magwell on the CM (hence I am seeing the launcher as adding, not taking away). If I were to modify the pieces (as I had intended) so that they could be put back, that would add to the rigidity of the handguard (or in the very least, stop it from turning when the launcher is not attached). All that aside, how does the rigidity of the body dictate the accuracy? The only place I can see that really being an issue is in the handguard, not the rest of the upper receiver. The inner barrel travels all of its length from the base of the handguard all the way through to the end of the outer barrel. Shouldn't the main focus be keeping the barrel as locked to the rest of the gun as possible (meaning, locked to the handguard, and the handguard locked to the upper receiver)? That, and I can't imagine a better hop-up would hurt. Or am I completely missing the point? Are you saying to put my sight all the way down on the handguard? Not entirely sure I understand how to "tie it to the barrel." I will get a paper target and show the grouping. I do not have any way to measure the length, so I guess you're going to get "paces" (foot to heel distance). Thank you for the feedback, btw. EDIT: 71 paces with a 11 3/4" boot = 21.19 meters. Didn't even make 30 meters. 43 degrees F (current temp). Grouping is pretty bad, not sure if it's even worth posting (let's just say in the very least, they hit the paper). I tried with both .23's and .25's as well as adjusting the hop up (which apparently is either going to drop bb's or make them fly upward; can't find the middle ground).
  7. I don't know if anyone has done this before, so I'll just explain what I did. I have a G&G M4 (not entirely sure on the model), and I wanted to try an EGLM mount. After purchasing a Lancer EGLM, I was disappointed to find out that it would not fit. The reason was clear: The rail did not reach low enough. I was preparing to do some really stupid things when I noticed the top rail was raised enough that it could possibly fit the EGLM. I did what was right: test my hypothesis. I removed the upper receiver and made an effort to remove the front handguard. It proved difficult, since I didn't understand how it was mounted. I finally got it off by removing the outer barrel screws at the base of the handguard (as well as the handguard screws at its base). I removed the pieces pictured here: This enabled me to flip the handguard upside-down and reassemble. The down side is that there is slight hanguard wobble and the "B" rail as a "T" rail is lower than the rest of the upper receiver. Little skeptical about a sling as the structure is now lacking. I intend to dremel away a bit of the nub on the ring I removed as well as drill a small "nub" hole on the upper-to-lower receiver mounting pin so that I can put the removed parts back in, just upside-down. Of course, that looks wonky and removes from the realism, but it's really all about the EGLM at this point. Aside from that, since the "B" rail is lower than the rest of the "T" rail, I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on making it look a little better. I was thinking that maybe I should put rail covers on the three remaining rails. Thoughts? Comments? Thanks!
  8. It's advertised as Elite Force. Going to the "Contact Us" part of their page brings me to Umarex, so I'm fairly certain it's an Umarex gun. I sent them an email, so I'm waiting two days on that. Since I've never owned an Umarex other than this, nor have I had any barrels of the same sort, I can't honestly tell you which it is. Perhaps this will turn out to be more work than it's worth. I'm thinking about just dremeling the hole bigger, since that sounds wayyyy less damaging.
  9. It looks like a very subtle bead of epoxy at that joint (of course, I can't really tell what it is). It is advertised as "FIXED Mock Suppressor," but seeing how there's that apparent adhesive, I will thirdly agree that it is likely to be two pieces. I do not own a heat gun, so I just did a quick skim online. I am wondering if you have a recommended brand and wattage for this application (assuming it is absolutely necessary to use a heat gun, 1, and 2, assuming that it is not an epoxy, or at least if it were, that a heat gun could break/loosen the bonds of the epoxy). Also, would you assume this is a CCW to loosen or CW to loosen barrel?
  10. It is most certainly FIXED. It cannot be removed. There is a very subtle (but nevertheless, present) bead of what appears to be epoxy where the mock suppressor meets the rest of the outer barrel. I don't know if that means it's fused pieces or fused screwed pieces, but either way it will not budge (and I don't want to try using a vice, lest I accidentally damage it). However, if I WERE to try to remove it by such means, would you suppose it is CCW or CW to loosen?
  11. When it comes to form vs function, I need to have BOTH. I have an electric blowback SL9 (I know, the EBB is completely unnecessary... But I like it..) which is underperforming in a few areas, but I know how to fix those issues. My concern comes from aesthetics. The barrel on this gun has a mock suppressor that is, to say the least, annoying. The handguard was specifically made to compensate for this fixed mock suppressor. I am aware that there is an RIS handguard that can also fit over the barrel, but I personally do not like it. I like the default style 6-hole handguard, which unfortunately cannot fit due to the oversized mock suppressor. So, I see three options, ALL of which I would like opinions on, please. 1. I could get an outer barrel that does not have a fixed mock suppressor on it. As you can see, this is not as simple as a normal barrel switch; the gun uses a different kind of barrel than most. 2. I could find a 6 hole standard style handguard with a large enough space to compensate for the mock suppressor. I have never seen one like this, so I doubt it was ever made. 3. I could dremel a hole into the hand guard. However, there are tabs (refer to preceding pictures) on the smaller one which are clearly to keep the outer barrel positioned. I don't know whether or not if after I have put it together, the gun will be able to keep accuracy due to lack of stabilizing tabs. As you can see, the handguard can totally fit length wise with this barrel. Any help one which of the 3 directions I should go would be greatly appreciated!
  12. As Alberty stated, motor height is another reason this motor whine occurs. Be sure to know that at the bottom of the grip is usually a hole for an allen key to adjust the motor height. As with all things in the gearbox, this height must be PRECISE, or it will do some serious damage to your gun, as well as not perform correctly.
  13. I figured out that I need a barrel wrench. Will update after I get it in the mail.
  14. The 6-hole can be found on any JG RL-8 or RL-9 (The part itself is out of stock alone). Those are both SL-rifles, just without the blowback and the mock suppressor. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is how the hell I unscrew the damned thing. The Mock suppressor cannot be removed because it is FIXED to the standard outer barrel. I guess they glued it. I was hoping that you could tell me if the barrel is CW or CCW (there is a ring looking screw around the barrel that I believe is keeping it in place, and I don't know which direction to unscrew), and if there is a compatible outer barrel for sale that I could use to replace this outer barrel+FIXED mocksuppressor
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