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About anzezaf

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 11/28/1993

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    Slovenia, EU
  1. I think that design-wise the R-Hop is pushing the limit of hop effectivness. The only thing to do now is experiment with more materials. I could be wrong, but I can't see how anything different than a concave shape could provide better hop.
  2. Take a bushing with you to the store and let them measure it
  3. Yeah, I didn't. I'm thinking of going to a local legit store and picking up a real one. Now, they don't have a IRL1404 with a heatsink. They DO have IRF1404 and IRF1404z. Plus, they have the IRLB3034PBF, N-Channel.(The fet from the unconventional guide) Would these be okay? They cost 3.5 euros per piece, so I want to be sure they will work. I already threw away 10 bucks with the chinese fakes.
  4. Well . It failed again on 11.1. It handled 7.4 without a problem for around 50 shots. After I hooked the 11.1 it only made about 5 and then failed. Here's the pic. What the hell am I doing wrong? Could it be that the 2.2k ohm resistor is too weak for 11.1v? EDIT: I may be going full retard now, but does the order of connected parts on a pin matter? For example : http://unconventional-airsoft.com/wp-conte...mple-mosfet.jpg On the source pin, there's first the pull down resistor, after that, there's the diode, and lastly the acutal source wire. I didn't do it like that, I just soldered every connection on top of each other, so they're all parallel to the pin. Here's a rough sketch - the lines are wires, the lowest one is the source pin So its not like this: resistor| diode| source---- ---------------------------------- But source -------------------------- diode---------------------------- resistor-------------------------- -----------------------------------
  5. I did use a 5kp18a diode from the previous mosfet in the 2nd try though. That could explain the 11.1v situation. And I forgot to mention, I'm using IRL1404 OK, I re-redid it, with a new mosfet, new diode, new resistor, new way of connecting. Squeezed a few shots out on 7.4 and 11.1 and it seems to be working for now. Will test more tommorow and report.
  6. OK, redid it with a 2200 pull down resistor. When I hooked the 7.4 lipo on, it ran without a problem. I squeezed about 10 shots, and some full auto. After hooking up the 11.1, it made two or three semi shots and on the fourth went crazy with full auto non stop again. Could it be the mosfets?
  7. Here's the thing. I did a DYI mosfet from the unconvential airsoft guide. I used 100 and 300 ohm resistors ( I cant remember which for each gate, but I'm sure they're at the right position ). The reason I did this because a guy at a local airsoft community makes a lot of mosfets, and judging from the feedback, they're pretty good too. He recommended such resistors. I know that for the 300 resistor I used, a higher value is usually recommended. Apart from that, I think I made the mosfet up to spec. Now, when I connected the wiring harness to my GB, nothing happened, as usual. When I pressed the trigger, it started shooting full auto non stop, so I immediately disconnected the battery. I knew the mosfet was dead. I touched it to check if it's hot and it wasn't hot, just (pleasantly) warm. There was no smoke / out of the ordinary occurences. I don't have a multimeter to check for any shorts, but I think I'm safe. I insulated the trigger connections on the outside, so it cant touch the GB shell. I didn't insulate the motor connectors, which I soldered, but I took a look and it doesnt seem to be touching anything. So. It could be a wrong resistor rating, a faulty mosfet from the start ( I bought a 5pack from ebay (china)), or I over heated the mosfet when soldering. Am I missing anything?
  8. 3/16 ID. That's 4.7mm. Isn't such a diameter too small for a 6mm barrel?
  9. The discharge rate could be a problem. You can order a good lipo from hobbyking for like 10 dollars shipped.
  10. They werent lemons. After doing some googling, a lot of users reported that overall, HK deans are a very tight fit. Some may find them hard to get apart by hand. I could do it and after a few cycles they go apart a bit easier. My friend still couldnt get them apart. And that was only the plug. Imagine getting them apart inside a stock or a confined space. :D
  11. And you need a crowbar to get deans apart. At least the ones with grips from hobbyking.
  12. You can make a DYI one ( if you know how to solder ) for 10 bucks
  13. The piston is moving freely, no drag what so ever. The oring has a little bit of drag though, but it will be gone after I grase it.
  14. So, M120 and no short stroking is a no-go? Really dislike the idea of short stroking because it "ruins" the sector.
  15. Would I be good with M130, no short stroke and the plastic piston head? Does AoE have anything to do with PE? Cuz, I have it set at about 12-13 o clock. Will attach pics if needed.
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