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About Bunkerman

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    ASF Citizen
  1. Honestly, I strongly, strongly, STRONGLY suggest against touching anything inside the gearbox as of right now. The thing that gives TM High Cycle guns their high RoF is the higher speed, lower torque motors that come stock in the gun. The basic premise of the platform is that because of the high speeds, you need a weaker spring to make everything viable. While the build you listed (minus the motor) would make for a relatively nice higher RoF gearbox (also, a quick side note: when it comes to components like the ARL or nozzle, it's often best to leave it unless there's meshing issues), it'd probably be a slight downgrade compared to what you have now. You'd need a motor that supplies more torque than the stock motor can likely handle, which would means this would essentially turn into a complete (and relatively expensive) gearbox overhaul. This would virtually defeat the purpose of buying a more expensive gun in the first place, seeing as you could of done the exact same with a $100 JG AUG and achieved the same results. So, this leads to the question of why exactly you want more FPS in your gun? Is it a matter of range or wanting to make sure people down range know your BBs are bouncing off their gear? If it's the first, then some appropriate weight ammo, a nice, clean barrel, and a nice hop-up system (either an amazing bucking or a nicely done R-Hop patch) should do the trick. If its the latter, then I'd suggest going off of a different platform than your TM High Cylce AUG. You'd be throwing around ~$200 of the price you paid out in exchange for expensive upgrade parts that would likely give you a slight decrease in overall performance. So, TL;DR - I'd say leave it as is. If you REALLY want to upgrade, focus on the barrel and the hop-up. More range is more viable than an extremely expensive 50 FPS upgrade.
  2. My guess is that the motor isn't able to draw all the power it needs in order to finish the cycle. By all means the motor should be able to pull that setup just fine from a technical stand point, so then it comes down to figuring out the limiting factors. Assuming the shimming is somewhat decent (gears aren't horribly grinding, etc.), there's actually lube in there, etc., the most likely culprit in my eyes is not enough juice making it to the motor. Try a higher amperage battery with proper connectors (Deans, XT-60, etc.) and see if it helps at all. If you've got a decent LiPo sitting around, it might do the trick of diagnosis at the very least.
  3. Everything seems like its in order and should work just fine, but just a few suggestions: Tbh, any stock ARL or cut-off lever will work, there's no real need to go high quality on them. If you have experience with a certain kind and know they work, might as well stick with them instead of discovering some odd meshing issues with various brand parts. Seems you left out a piston as well, but a nice metal-rack one should do you nicely (SHS and Lonex are favorites around here). As for some suggestions, most low-resistance wire should suit you well seeing as you're going to make your own wire harness due to the mosfet, I assume (key note: If you do make your own harness, don't forget the trigger assembly, motor connectors, etc.). For the motor, the JG blue will give you far more torque than you need with this build and give you an 'okay' RoF instead of the high RoF you want. Consider something like a Lonex A1 or A3, maybe an SHS HT or HS if you want to keep on the cheaper side, they should all give you more than enough torque (provided you have a big enough LiPo) and get your RoF more where you want it. There's a video floating around on Youtube of someone who used SHS 13:1's and a SHS HS motor in their G36c and hit around 50 RPS., but that'd be a low tolerance, high maintenance build. Just keep in mind that this is all going to be extraordinarily expensive, but I wish you luck. Hopefully you can get it done in time for the Winter Build Off. :P
  4. Any chance this is the gun you're talking about? http://maasf.org/forum/showthread.php/2169...-and-a-TM-Famas If so, it looks like you're in the area, and I wouldn't mind taking a quick look at it and figuring out what exactly is wrong with it to help with any possible recourse against the seller. Just send me a PM if I can help.
  5. Matrix is Evike.com's house brand to answer your question, and I would assume that is the brand your M4 is. Also, picture are always helpful when IDing a gun.
  6. Sorry to say, but FPS isn't the way to go when you're trying to improve accuracy or range. You'd be putting your gearbox under a fair amount of stress with an M150, and it wouldn't just be a simple spring swap. You'd need to tune your entire gearbox to handle that kind of load, assuming the stock parts could even handle it and the stock motor can pull the spring. My suggestion would to be getting a decent 6.03mm tightbore barrel (Madbull and Prometheus are both popular choices) and a better bucking. If you're feeling bold on the technical side of things, you can always attempt an R-Hop and give your gun pretty insane range through that way. You really don't need to open the gearbox for introductory range and accuracy upgrades. Hell, you could do a world of good simply by cleaning your barrel and installing a quality bucking into your hop up.
  7. First off, welcome to ASF, hopefully you'll like it here in the tech community. Second off, how familiar with you on the inner workings of a gearbox? It seems that you're rather new to all of this, and if so I wouldn't suggest attempting the build with the parts you listed. It looks like you did a fair amount of research on what parts to use, but it's a tad bit excessive for the results you want. If all you need is 25-35 RPS, a nice thorough tuning of your gun, a new neo-magnet motor (Ex: A nice Lonex motor), a re-wire with a MOSFET, and a decent 11.1v LiPo battery will put your there comfortably. If you're insistent on your build, I can critique it if you like, but as it stands the motor/gear set you've chosen will make for an extremely demanding setup that will take a fair amount of tuning to get it reliable.
  8. Thanks for the link. Any idea when the formal release date for the Spectre is for general purchase? Keeping the entire thing in the GB is a huge plus for me, so I'm a bit antsy to get my hands on one or two.
  9. Have you had a chance to thoroughly test it out? I'm thinking about getting a Chimera Mk. II, but I'm wondering if I should wait a bit and grab this instead. Any comparison notes you've noticed between the two if you own a Chimera?
  10. Have you checked the polarity on your motor? Make sure you hooked up positive to positive and negative to negative. Reverse polarity will make the motor/gears spin in the wrong direction. I've made this mistake far more times than I'd like to admit, lmfao.
  11. The easiest way to get into the sport around here is to simply find a commercial airsoft field and start playing there during their open skirmishes. You meet new people fairly quickly, and everyone is generally friendly. I'd personally suggest The Citadel in Worcester or The Ultimate Battleground (commonly referred to as UBG around here) close to Buzzard's Bay, they're both fairly popular fields with multiple locations and plenty of friendly people. Simply show up with your gun, some protective equipment, pay the field fee and just play. You'll meet new people fairly quickly, and will probably end up joining a team at some point. If you want to meet up with new people in the area, check out maasf.org. It's your best bet for setting something up with new people before going to a game. Welcome to Massachusetts, I hope you enjoy it around here.
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