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Synastr

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About Synastr

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  • Birthday 06/09/1992

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  1. Do not buy the g&g fn2000. My buddy had one that caused nothing but problems. His hop up had problems. The trigger design is awful and never worked properly. And I've owned scars and used his gun and I can say his gun I would never own. It's extremely bulky, the mag change is so awkward feeling, it's just not a comfortable or very well designed actually. As for barrel length? I had a 300mm barrel in my g&p m4 with a flat hop that easily outranged his g&g every time.
  2. Price drop. 340!! Want to sell to purchase another gun.
  3. New update! Noticed it did seem slow for a dsg. Pulled the motor and went to cleaning it via water method. Within a few minutes it stopped turning. I looked and both brushes were basically gone. Changed them and the springs. Reinstalled and it's a night and day difference!! This thing is fast now. Easily 40+ I couldn't imagine the right motor and battery combo in it.
  4. Rules: Pretty standard accross the board, If your interested, comment or PM me. I Accept paypal. Ill explain everything about the gun, And if your serious I can always talk to you on the phone. Ok, now ive decided to sell my DSG magpul m4. I got the idea to Build this from ZACKOX and built my first one. ZERO flaws or issues, Feeds excellent with midcaps. Its somewhat a slow build because of the Motor used. Parts: Seigtek DSG gear, G&P gears. SHS tappet plate modified. Aluminum air seal nozzle, cyclinder head, and cyclinder. Lonex blue piston, Custom modified piston. Its using only the steel teeth so no issues in blowouts. PERFECT compression throughout. 6.03 tightbore from an airsoft GI custom gun. JG blue neo motor, used, old, pretty slow. Prometheus M170 spring. Lonex silver wiring, Mosfetted for GATE mosfets, Its using a merf 3.2 but its not included. You'll need either to cut the connector and wire to a regular mosfet, or buy a nano ssr or nano ab from gugesmk3 Whats included: Three mid caps Leapers red/green dot that needs a battery. The front sight was removed for the red dot, but ill include it with. I have the original box that it came in. Turnigy nano-tech 11.1 25c (really to small for a dsg) 14mm cw adaptor to use other flashiders, but only the original plastic one comes with. Im only looking to trade this gun for a beta project/echo 1 ocw/ jg mag-k. Also interested in a m14 ebr with M4 buffer tube. like the cyma gun. Its possible I might trade for something else, But im looking to switch to a different platform. If I were to trade for the echo 1 or jg I would most definitely have to have boot. I would probably go straight out on the beta project ak. Im intereted in guns that are magpuled. NO M4s, I've had too many. Im asking $400 OBO. That is extremely cheap for the gun seeing as there more than that invested easily. *** If someone doesnt want the gun to be a DSG, I can easily swap back to a standard build, with a m110 spring, CQB legal and the g&p M120 motor. ***
  5. Ok, so in general on a standard m4, 11.5 inch barrel, magpul moe handgaurd, what or is there availed gas block to do-away with the ugly triangle sight and attach a front mbus like the rear, but also line up with the rear sight. I've seen it on pictures before but what exactly is the rail block I need?
  6. You also could run a standard m110 or 120 and change the cyclinder. Like a full cyclinder. Zackox tested my gearbox with a gaurder sp120. Shortstroked one tooth,full cyclinder with a C length barrel. 315-320 fps. That spring should be over 400fps.
  7. Yes, if you haven't already, switch to deans connectors. Also I would switch to a 7.4 lipo. It give the setup more power than a 9.6 can give under load. Also, have you found out the original problem with your gun? You also wouldn't technically need a MOSFET with your build, even with a 7.4 but it does add a little better trigger response due to the way it's designed to work.
  8. I'm sorry but your wrong with everything! A stock gun has no tuning. Taking it apart and fixing it, makes the gun work more like it should. Short striking adds wear? What are you talking about man? It adds less wear if anything. All it changes is how far the piston gets pulled back. And bearing spring guides are essential for highspeed so the spring can turn. Otherwise it puts stress on the spring and if it binds you can have PE or possibly a broke spring.
  9. Also I can do tech work very cheap. Like very cheap. I love working on guns and gearboxes. You just buy the parts and ship the gearbox and lower reciever since its a scar. And I can make it work.
  10. Stay away from the burst wizard. A lot of bad rep. And it actually doesn't do what a MOSFET should. On to your build. 20rps is on the slow side of a highspeed. Just so you know. But if you wanting that. Buy an shs high torque motor, and the 7.4 lipo will get you 20rps. As for scars. Your best bet would be to fix your gearbox and just add a few things. Your not shooting for 30+ so the stress isn't high. Just use a ball bearing spring guide. You can use an shs piston. Add a standard MOSFET. Nothing fancy and you'll be fine. You could probably be under 100 if you source the parts.
  11. I told him to just build a MOSFET but he went cheap. It's odd because correct draw is 16amps on an 11.1. It's using an shs ht with m120 spring. And the MOSFET has a 20amp fuse. I wonder what MOSFET they used?
  12. So my buddy bought this wiring harness. http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=41704 And we installed deans and reused the g&g switch. But I noticed when using a 7.4 or 11.1 the MOSFET gets hot. Way to hot. It also appears to have 2 MOSFET chips? What might possibly be the problem? Is the MOSFET bad?
  13. Well I've decided on the KWA cqr. I got to feel and shoot one in person and liked its externals. It shot great. I have no issues with common KWA hate because it's little things. Stuff Im going to change anyway.
  14. It's extremely possible to do, even without a MOSFET. You got to look at the fact that the trigger when pulled it makes an electrical connection. Just like the button or pressure switch on the light. Now to do it where it works with the aeg battery. Just run One wire from the negative area on the light to a negative source in the gun. Then wire the positive side into the switch so when it's pulled it sends power to the motor and the light. Simple. Now if your wanting a separate source for the light (stock battery in the light) you'll need a pressure switch. Usually flashlights use the switch on the negative side of the power to switch. So in order to make it work you could either place the micro switch somewhere inside the GB to create a connection when the tigger is pulled. You also could make a MOSFET for just the light and use the aeg trigger switch as the switch for your light MOSFET. In conclusion it will be easier to just use the aeg battery. The light shouldn't draw much any power compared to the aeg. You also could run another pressure switch into the battery power and light and use it outside the gun if you need to use the light and not pull the trigger. Since I seen you wanted to do that. It's just time to wire and make it work. But you would have to use a 12v light for sure. I always wanted to do a muzzle flash type light that works like a tracer light for the white bb's, but there's no on-off cycle anywhere when the gun is full auto. The only possible way other than sound. Is an infra red led that would pick up every time the bb leaves the barrel somewhere just light the jg tracers work. But instead of it triggering the strobe light inside the tracer it would trigger a MOSFET wired to the tac light. If I ever do it. I'll make a build post so everyone could do it.
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