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chibajoe

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About chibajoe

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 08/15/1978

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Snow Wolf M41a Pulse Rifle
  1. I think it's unfortunate that APS couldn't quite get it quite right with the UAR. It's a great idea, and one of the few airsoft guns out there that isn't a copy of a RS gun. Unfortunately, it seems airsoft players want copies, not originality. It also didn't help that the gun wouldn't work with most standard mags, felt like a toy, and has that weird trigger. It's obvious that APS had to make too many compromises in order to hit a certain price point, and that, more than anything is probably what will ultimately sink the gun. It's a shame, too, since the UAR is a very innovative product.
  2. I've played with both the A&K and G&P SAWs, and while they are nice guns, they don't weigh or feel anything like the real thing. It's kinda like the difference between the bacon flavored stuff they put on salad vs real, honest to God, chopped from a dead pig bacon. Having said that, the airsoft SAWs are pretty heavy, and reasonably solid. Humping one around all afternoon at a game is going to give you a decent workout, even if it's not quite the same as humping the real thing around. If you really want to get the full suck experience, you could always add 10 pounds of lead to your ruck. As far as reliability goes, SAW gearboxes are pretty solid chunks of metal, and as long as you don't run a gonzo battery in there, you really shouldn't have a problem. The trigger microswitch can't handle a lot of current anyway, so it's better to avoid a 3S (11.1v) LiPo. I run a 7.4v LiPo in mine, and it works out pretty well as it keeps the ROF closer to the 13RPS of the real M249. The biggest downside of using a M249 in airsoft is that there is no semi-auto mode, so you are stuck with support role MED, if the fields you play at have such rules.
  3. None that I've been able to find, although the newest version with the battery in the back is supposed to have a revised magwell that works with mid-caps. It's not the mid-caps that you have to modify, it's the gun.
  4. You're missing a part. There is a lock nut that clamps down on the spring guide once it is screwed into position, holding it in place.
  5. I wired a charging port to the back, so I don't have to fiddle around with taking the battery in and out. The first gen UARs are very finicky with mags. Mine will only work with the stock mags and some hi-caps; haven't found any mid-caps that will feed reliably in full auto.
  6. You have to remember that most of a car doesn't see much more physical contact than some dust and rain, unlike a gun. Your UAR looks great, but I think you'll want to go back to a hard paint as opposed to the plastidip. I plastidipped my bumpers and wheels, and it has held up really well, but will come right off if it gets scuffed bad. I personally really like the UAR; it is one of the best 'out the box' deals on the market. The internals are excellent(except for the motor), and with just a little tweaking it can be made accurate and reliable without a lot of extra money. I prefer the older version with the battery in the top, but I understand why the redesigned it to put the battery in the stock.
  7. It doesn't take a machinist; the barrels are soft aluminum. A hack saw and 14mm negative thread die works just fine.
  8. The MX5-Pro trigger is electronic, so no, you can't just drop it into an older gun. You might be able to drop the entire gearbox into your gun, but the Pro uses a split box, so if your gun doesn't have that then you probably won't be able to do that either.
  9. ICS MX-5 Pro. You're going to need to get a rail mount for the RDS, but they're $10 or so and are not hard to find. Personally I think the HG is kinda fugly and the electronic trigger can be a bit flaky, but you do get 3rd burst (more or less) and full auto. Not sure if you can still find the Pros, but I'm sure ICS has something new that is comparable (although maybe not with the 4 position switch). If you're interested and can't find one elsewhere, drop me a PM; I've got one NIB.
  10. If the UAR is based on anything, it would be the Polish MSBS Radon:
  11. I'll check when I get home, but IIRC the MX5-Pro selector switch doesn't have a spring loaded detent like a regular MP5, which is why there is no feedback for position. I don't think you can replace it either, since it isn't a standard part thanks to their electronic trigger.
  12. More likely than not, the trigger link inside the gearbox is broken. This is a pretty common problem with the FAMAS gearbox, and the only fix seems to be to get another gearbox since the plastic link piece that breaks isn't readily available. If you're lucky, you might be able to take the gearbox apart and glue the link back together, but it will just break again the next time you pull on the trigger too hard. The real problem is that there is too much trigger travel, which puts a lot of strain on a very fragile component. Unless you limit the travel, you will most likely just end up breaking the link in the new gearbox as well.
  13. You're putting $100 worth of parts into a $100 gun. Why no just buy a $200 gun?
  14. Air nozzle not moving freely in the hopup, or the air nozzle is too long.
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