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2-Tall S.E.A.L

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About 2-Tall S.E.A.L

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 11/22/1985

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    the_great_white_yeti@yahoo.com
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    San Diego, CA
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  1. Ok, seriously I was about to falcon punch the screen until I saw it was Hank Johnson, HAH what a bloody hack. I don't really know what's funnier to me, what he said or the fact the you guys are actually surprised he said it, keep in mind this man is a reincarnation of the polar opposite of Colin Powell with Down Syndrome and a scootch of mild sexual & mental retardation.
  2. I'd say Gen. Kill or the first Sniper movie. Yes, Sniper had it's hollywood moments, but the role of a sniper was heavily projected pretty decently in this movie, IMO. Tom B. = Downfall of the Norris
  3. Bump for a sick rifle, still have it btw?
  4. Yeah, my PCS dial has been sticky lately, having to crank it from the side with a flat head. I actually have heard the opposite about the power bolt. Because the PCS has that dial there's obstruction in the gas port where as the power bolt with a KA nozzle (because of a direct gas route w/o obstruction) is the way to go. I think his inner barrel is different than mine (590mm 6.01 vs. my 6.03 650mm) but my buddy has a PB and up until the last 1-3 shots, they all land within 13" &lt;AT&gt; 305ft at 510-535fps and being that's the FPS range I'm at and want to stay at just kinda using what I've seen work with others you know.
  5. (1). No Idea but it's a slightly larger diameter than stock, 25" long and it's a solid metal rod with just enough room for the inner barrel (couldn't even get a single layer of teflon to stay on the inner barrel when sliding it in). (2). There are SOME that are fluted but mine and every unit I've seen have been smooth finish. (3). If you're asking what I think you are then no, this thing WILL NOT FLEX. The OEM barrel slides over the outer barrel and it's cranked on to the front of the stock which usually causes flex since there's no anchor point on the receiver for the outer barrel. However, the G&G heavy barrel free floats over the stock (on my M40 it's perfectly flush, on my M24 it's a true free float) and gets pressure clamped to the receiver by a VERY heavy duty set screw that clamps it's between the inside and outside of the front receiver. Now with this setup if you whack the end of that barrel against something hard enough you could damage the receiver and/or stock, but you don't throw these around like an MP5 and the improved accuracy and weight was worth every coin IMO. (4). You very well could do that, and also place washers on the barrel mount to prevent flex when you tighten the screw. Not saying the stock one is crap, just saying the G&G one is world's better. One of the many ingredients if you will. :EDIT: If you REALLLLLYYYY like the stock outer just do the washer trick to the barrel mount, and just line up as many spacers as you can inside it. It's way cheaper and the results should be the same. It just won't be as strong and you can't fit the gospel perfect 650mm long inner in it w/o it poking out.
  6. Huh, thanks for that. You just saved me $25 :D Was kinda wondering why the one with the KA chamber was one size while the one for the OEM style chamber was stepped.
  7. The whole system IMO plays a pretty large role in the accuracy. Either way, it's well worth the coin, function & looks on par and it's V E R Y beef. Idk, for me this barrel system is just one of those things that I HAVE to have on a rifle after using it, u know? Like when you find those mags or bb's that feed so well, that hop-up rubber that just makes s*** fly straight, etc.
  8. Yup, they indeed are. I was searching for some for my M40 project as well. Check here or Airsoft Monkey (their classifieds list all ads on airsoft forums in the US), there's been a good bulk of Tanaka parts and stuff roaming around. But yeah, as far as buying new you're SOL.
  9. Out of curiosity, why did nobody exchange phone numbers to prevent ALL of this?
  10. Yeah, I figured my M24 was pushing 12 pounds, thought I was going nuts lol. So it fits the 700 with no issues huh? Idk, not that it didn't fit the M24, just free floated like I said but I don't trust it. Not sure if this matters, but how heavier is the full barrel to the fluted version?
  11. For me a "scout" or observer set-up has always been the same as my regular sniper set up, just swap out the scopes. IOW, M40 with 4-12x50 for sniper, but when I get the opportunity to play forward observer I'll throw on like a 6-24x50 so I can see what's going on up ahead without being too close.
  12. http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index....roducts_id=3613 Save you from ordering overseas The larger end goes to the rear, but as for it being straight it's just human error. Just got to be careful, and it's easier to say than do, I feel your pain.
  13. As an owner of a PCS system, get a G&G power bolt and a hop-up conversion kit for AEG barrels. Find the G&G heavy outer barrel and run a 550mm-590mm 6.03 inner barrel. I use to fire .29 SMG's back in the day but had crap results then recently tried .36. The range sucks with .36's but they are accurate at about 200-220ft. I found a box of the SMG's laying around and now they are fantastic for some reason. Here's an "In my opinion..." summary for consistent & effective results w/o converting to HPA: Stock: I have an M24 and M40A1 stock, the M24 is great for posting up and doing observation, it's heavy, adjustable & it's stable. The M40 is better for running around like a wild chicken. Just how I hold rifles, it sights in very quick and is a pleasure to fire from kneeling. Trigger: It's adjustable but don't mess with it unless it needs cleaning. Outer barrel: Get a G&G heavy barrel. This fits the M40 like a glove, straight and flush on the stock. It still fits the M24/M700 stocks but it kinda free floats and could bust your reciever if you hit that barrel against something bad enough. That being said it makes the M24 a VERY heavy platform, but this kit was single handily responsible for curing my inner barrel flex issues. This kit comes with a G&G 6.04 tightbore, if you are shooting over 450fps, drop kick this thing ASAP. Hop-Up: From what I can remember, people had nothing but crap things to say about G&G hop-up rubber. I found a little "dime bag" that had my old upgrade parts: G&G bolt seal, hop-up rubbers and barrel seal. While a PCS bolt doesn't fire the gas "as smooth" as a Power bolt or modded Tanaka bolt, this little kit cured a few other gremlins I had, one being worn hop up rubber. Inner barrel: First and foremost, use a 6.03 and nothing but. Idc what anybody has to say, this diameter is pure magic if the barrel is quality made and your shooting 475-525. Second, for lengths I've had best results using a 550mm, again mostly shooting right on the border of 500 mostly. If your FPS is closer to 550fps, a slightly longer barrel wouldn't hurt your chances. I have a cut down PSG-1 barrel but it's too long stock IMO. At range, that longer barrel in conjunction with a tuned hop-up with give you way better results than pumping the FPS. On this last note, don't get something stupid long, keep it real. Ammo: .36's are great for wind, but if it's an ok to calm day. .29's rule the world. I haven't tried .30's yet but will post up a test when I do. I've used Super Grand Master .29's forever and a half, and they use to not get along with my gas rifles but the one I just built LOVES these little things. To some it up: G&G heavy barrel (optional but highly recommended) KA hop-up with G&G red rubbers 550mm-580mm 6.03 TB (quality, quality, quality, don't buy cheap) PCS is nice, stick with a Power bolt. More consistent and not as hard to find OR put G&G springs and seals in your stock bolt. Screw green gas, Propane with that magic silicone drop every 3-5 refills (or purge the green gas out of the mag and THEN fill with propane). :EDIT: Almost forgot, don't be afraid to apply teflon tape around the barrel/HU junction and barrel seal. You can get very crafty, just don't get carried away.
  14. Holding the bolt with the front facing away from you turn the PCS screw left all the way until it stops, DO NOT FIGHT IT and remember to loosen the grub screw first. BTW, it's not too bad with the bolt all the way open (at least it hasn't been for me) you just get about half the shots from your mag before you half to recharge it (like 15 or so shots as opposed to 20-25) but I recharge everytime I reload so this is never an issue with me. IMO, if you have a PCS bolt try to find a guy to trade you for a G&G Power bolt instead (it's what I'm doing haha).
  15. I have the stock for a Tanaka M24 if you want to buy it off me (too heavy with my G&G outer barrel so I stuck with my old M40a1 stock) you could just get any Tanaka M700 base rifle and just swap 'em out. All you'd need is the front receiver allen bolt. And to answer your Q no, they aren't in stock. Airsoft Monkey has classifieds that list the ads from darn near all forums and I've found some pretty good finds there.
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