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Reedy26

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About Reedy26

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    ASF Immigrant
  • Birthday 01/25/1983

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    Male
  • Location
    IL
  1. If you do deciede to invest in the hobby, I would pick up a nice digital battery charger. Something that would normally be used for RC cars. Personally I use a Hyperion brand charger. It was around $100 or so, but can charge nicad, Nimhd, Lipo, & LiFe types if batteries. It also has adjustable parameters for charge, discharge, and peak voltage detection along with balance charging and storage mode for lipos. Lipo (Lithium polymer) is the future of batteries. The took over the RC world in what seemed like overnight due to their far superior capacity. Since your gun is stock, if you decide to go the lipo route make sure it is a 7.4 volt and at least 2000mAh(that's the capacity) and I recommend a minimum of a 20c rating (the maximum safe discharge rate) Other than that I usually recommend a tight bore barrel in a 6.03mm diameter as a first upgrade since it will improve range, accuracy, and give a small velocity boost. It's an easy install IMO since it does not require the gearbox to be opened up.
  2. Why do people buy/use GoPro's? They look hideous mounted up. Especially helmet mounts. Contours are much better looking and don't stick out all goofy.
  3. I have an old droid phone somewhere that I wouldn't mind modifying. And I think an IR flip down lense for a tac light will suffice. Nightsgift, any info on that case in the pics?
  4. Give it time. Given this guns popularity it won't be long before the aftermarket catches up.
  5. The mAh on a lipo refers to its capacity or how much juice it can hold. 1200 is way to low. I use a 5000mAh with a 50c rating, 7.4v. Nothing to special about my gun, I just like being able to play all day with one battery. The C rating is basically how much discharge the battery can safely handle. 20-30c is pretty good for airsoft. My batteries are from my Associated RC truck lol
  6. I use a cheapo red dot on my CA SR25. It's not a DMR, just an accurate AEG with a little longer effective range. I like the red dot for quick aiming down sight with my goggles on, but even then it's 50/50 of getting a 1 shot 1 kill. Plus I've got like 20 some odd inches of rails, I gotta have SOMETHING on there lol!
  7. I like this idea a lot. Please make it iPhone 5 compatible size wise. Another feature that might be cool and simple to implement is an IR (infra red) mode for night. I say simple since most modern cameras will pick up IR light (which is invisible to the naked eye) and would only require a IR light source such as a couple IR LEDs wired up like a flash light, and BOOM! instant rifle mounted night vision! Btw if you need beta testers ;)
  8. Has anyone tried silicone shock oil that is used in RC cars. It's 100% silicone and available in different weights. I've been using this in all my guns for awhile now. Typically lighter weight for colder temps, but I usually just stick with a 20-30wt oil. For those of you not familiar with high end RC cars, they use a shock similar to that in a full size vehicle. Complete with seals, o rings, and pistons. The internals are all plastic & rubber inside of an aluminum body and are designed to be "tune able" by using different weight oil and actually changing the plastic piston heads (they have different size opening so you can control how easily the oil flows through during compression and rebound) Here is a link to the stuff I like http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/5422/
  9. Good info I will use. My against the skin layer is almost always Under Armor or some sort of similar athletic gear for its moisture wicking capabilities. I have decided to go with a Level 4 jacket & layer up as the 5 & 6 get rather pricey. Next up now is a good pair of water proof boots. I have dry/summer boots, but playing in early march in northern IL requires something that will stay dry in the slop. Good news is the money I'm saving on the coat will be applied to the boots. I never skimp on footwear
  10. Thank you! That is exactly the info I was looking for. I'm leaning towards the level 6 due to the gortex and water proofing features.
  11. I have been looking through eBay for a warm/dry Multicam coat to use during cold weather (20-40 degrees, possible light rain) and have noticed quiet a price range. Anywhere from $25-$200+. I've also noticed some of these coats say level 5 or level 6 in the descriptions. These seem to be the more exspensive ones. What do the levels mean? I tried to google it without much luck.
  12. Yep, I made a typo. Ill be there with 8 guys from Rockford, plus the other area team should be good for another dozen I think. We are going US again this year. I too will be looking forward to more balanced teams. Last year was to easy, except for the final battle, that was just nuts.
  13. Hey all! I just signed up for this and it looks fun. Can't wait to play on that field again! I'm just wondering who else is going? I went for the first time last year and had a lot of fun despite the cold. This year I will be better prepared and looking forward to another awesome game! Game link below: (I'm not affiliated with the organization in anyway, I'm just a player) http://www.midwestairsofters.com/forums/in...p?topic=24694.0
  14. Hello everyone. I've started to look into the world of GBBR'S recently. Been reading and watching videos in an effort to learn as much as I can. The two main factors that are drawing me this route and away from my AEG's are recoil and noise. Especially the sound. I read through the other thread about the guns with the most recoil, but which ones offer a nice loud pop when you shoot them? Are there upgrades or modifications to increase the sound? I was first drawn to the P* as a possible option, but after watching videos it's way to quiet. I understand why, and that led me to the DG which seemed to sound nice in the M4 I heard it in. Especially shooting in automatic, but it's hard to judge actual sound from YouTube videos. This gun will eventually serve as my primary skirmish weapon in the warmer months so something that is accurate with good EFFECTIVE range is a must. I'm a machinist by trade and familiar with real steal so the mechanical and Maintence aspect is not really an issue for me. I'm also realistic on the price of what these cost plus the air rigs needed. Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thank you.
  15. Greetings & salutations! My name is Justin and like many I came into airsoft as a convert from the paintball world. Unlike many in paintball I hated speedball, and the rediculous game of "speedball." I prefered mil slim style events and airsoft lends a much more realistic style that I prefer (no big dumb hopper on my gun) A little about me. I'm 30, and am from the Rockford IL area. I'm a CNC machinist by trade and currently have 3 airsoft guns. The first gun I bought I openly admit was a rookie mistake. A Mauser Sr22 (L96) sniper rifle. I realized my mistake pretty quick and after a bit of research opted for a Classic Army AR 10 "Armalite" this is my main gun today. Only minor upgrades to it including a Bravo TBB and a few externals. It has great range and accuracy IMO. My third gun is more of a back up I picked up off my brother cheap since it had been shooting like crap. It is an older Dboys full metal M4. I bought it secretly knowing that there was a very high chance that all it needed was a new bucking (I was right) this gun is kind of my guinea pig. It was the first gearbox I opened and shimmed. For a gun that gets lent out to friends more than anything it's rock solid. I've been kicking around the idea of converting it over to a P*, but we'll see
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