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Chunky Panda 79

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About Chunky Panda 79

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  1. I'm not familiar with more than half the items you listed. You don't need to waste money on terminusx products - you can find cheaper alternatives. Definitely go for a pom piston head (good for 120SPsprings and below). Sorbo pads are good for AOE (Angle of engagement) and shock absorbtion especially for V2 gearboxes.
  2. Good to know that. Yeah, my friend had a Lonex A1 and his didn't work so well - he must have gotten a bad one. The SHS High Speed, though it's not balanced or torque, performs just as good on a 120SP 18:1 with rps in the mid 30s. On my KWA stock it gave 37/38 rps but I stopped using it - too fast for me and I don't think it was healthy for my piston. So yeah 18:1 with SHS/Lonex or 13:1/14:1 with AMP to get something in the 30s. You're right 18:1 setup is better - less stressful on the motor and pinion.
  3. I just googled and found this: http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index....roducts_id=3764 Anyways, on a 13:1 it got me 32 rps on bushings and it should be faster on bearings.
  4. Honestly, I find a 13:1 gearset on a T5000L High Torque Motor a safer high speed setup on a 120SP spring. I got 32 rps on bushings and it's even faster on bearings.
  5. Hi KiloSierra, I just modified my original post to give you more details on the setup - please look back at it). I honestly don't know how a m130 might affect a polycarb (never had to use a m130) but it's slighly stronger than a 120SP (M125). I had a guarder polycarb and it hasn't broken on me yet (probably cause I'm using sorbo paddings). The mosfet I used was custom made and is no longer made, however, just keep note of the current and voltage the mosfets can handle. Make sure they are at insane numbers that you'll never use e.g 24 volts.
  6. The setup I've used maintains 400 fps and 40 rps on bushings and SHS high speed motor, but the SHS 13:1 gearset's flawed bevel design couldn't handle it and the spur axle overheated and snapped (because I was using bushings). Anyways, a super durable Revolution gearset from RiotSC is highly recommended. I'm personally not a fan of the dual sector gear because it limits the amount of air used which affects range. Use a polycarb piston head and remove the ball bearings in the piston to reduce gearbox stress at high speeds, get sorbo pads for the cylinder head, and do AOE on the piston (you don't need to short stroke it using 120SP and ported cylinder in most cases (not all) =<40 rps). I also suggest you use a ported cylinder and a 120 SP spring so the piston can travel fast enough to avoid pre-engagements. Since you might not have ball bearings in the piston, make sure you do have bearings in the spring guide. You definitely need a superdurable mosfet that can take a insane amount of current and voltage to protect your triggers. If you'll be using bearings instead of bushings and 13:1 gearsets, you'll defintely be exceeding 45 rps with the SHS motor, so you're left with 1) Short-stroking 2) Get an 18:1 gearset 3) Get a high speed motor that is not insanely fast as the SHS like an Echo 1 High Speed (got 34/35 rps on bushings with 13:1 120SP) 4) If you're okay with speeds below 35 rps, then I suggest the high torque motor AMP T5000L (got 32 rps on bushings but it's even faster on bearings).
  7. 0.01 was a typo - I meant 0.1. The numbers I gave preceeded with "about" meaning it doesn't have to be 0.1 or 0.05 just close - just to give the person an idea. I failed to mention that I employ this type of shimming for bushings only. I had most of my ideas taken from a car mechanic who also works on airsoft guns - I've had many other techs work on my gun (wasted lots of cash to boot) and so far the mechanic is the most reliable of all of them. Many other "experts" with "years of experience" working on airsoft rifles will also differ from your opinion - yes, I've read through many of the forums, watched tutorials on youtube, and consulted with techs themselves. I'm not saying that you're wrong, just saying that many techs seem to think their differing approach is better because of their "years of experience." Having the bevel gear just a little looser than the rest, especially with bushings, is agreed on by several techs I've consulted with and the reason is sound - the motor unlike the other components has a lot more play to it unless you're dealing with V3 gearboxes or similar. In many cases though, I disregarded the "looseness" approach depending on how different the gearbox is (with bearing, V3, etc) . I find too perfect of a shimming with bushings will wear the shimmings and introduce the play on the bevel anyways. Yes, I agree with you that there are risks involved between the bevel teeth and spur teeth by making the bevel loose, but I'm forced to play the balancing act when it comes to bushings (spur contact vs. pinion contact). The spur gear has to have the least play (or perfectly shimmed of the lot) because most of the torque is applied to this gear according to several "experts" (doesn't mean it's tight cause mine spins really good). As for the sector gear, I'd most likely shim it as good as the spur gear if I could. If I couldn't, I'll keep it at 0.1 at most though there are still risks to that. In regards to the greasing, I find perfect shimming with bushings (not bearings) gets grease squeezed out and eventually wear off the shims. Employing moly paste (60% molybdenum) helps a bit. To conclude, bearings would be the best for me, at least when it comes to good shimming. Bushings force me to make sacrifices and employ special types of lubricants to minimize some of the risks. This partly leads to my other conclusion that there is not necessarily one way of shimming a gearbox depending on varying factors (Bushing Vs. Bearing, V2 Vs. V3, Grease Vs. Paste, Thick Shim Vs. Thin Shim, High Speed Vs. High Torque, etc). But then again I don't claim to be an infallible expert - just basing things on my observations that could have overlooked a few things.
  8. Bevel about 0.1mm spur about 0.05mm and sector about 0.05mm (though I have mine at about 0.1). Other techs may have different values, but the spur has to have the least play, the bevel needs some play due to the nature of the motor. Yes motor angle affects sound but a mistake could damage your bevel or pinion so try using a weaker battery to minimize risk.
  9. That's the magpul grip? Yeah, my friend had one and it had alignment issues as well - he had to loosen the heat sink screws to change the tilt of the motor. Don't know of any MOE that could be different. Sorry.
  10. Yeah, most people would consider it "normal" - I personally don't. I switched my ICS bevel gear to a KWA bevel gear and installed a SHS pinion and now it's super quite -I barely hear any whining or gnashing.
  11. A video I made a few years back, but I've never posted it in this forum before. The field has changed drastically with the addition of buildings, dig outs, and other stuff since then. Area 48 &lt;AT&gt; San Jose, CA 2010-02-20
  12. Thanks Deltie, I'll check it out. Cheers! :)
  13. Thanks Psychobunny. Gonna watch the vids :) FYI, the youtube channel link doesn't lead to youtube - it leads to another part of this forum.
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