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About berkie

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  1. I figured out the problem. When I put pressure on the hop up chamber towards the gearbox, it fires normally. There's a large gap between the Gearbox and the hop up chamber with only a plastic tube in between. The HSA barrel lockdown kit doesn't work on this gun, the O-rings are too big, but I will need to figure out a way to put more pressure on that hop up that it currently does. perhaps I should superglue the tube to the hop up chamber so there's absolutely no play in there.
  2. The barrel is a brand new pdi 05 and is cleaned and even with the r hop on the bb will pass straight through once its in the barrel or with a little push or puff. Im using the m nub. This problem also showed in the original lonex barrel but im wondering if sanding the tappet would fix it
  3. Its a full cylinder. The old one as well as the new one. I havent done the paper test yef but I don't feel anything when I hold my finger in front of the feeding tube. I can try putting in a smaller barrel if I have one lying around but usually 510mm would work fine with a full cylinder
  4. I bought this gun, broken, for pretty cheap. The problem was advertized as a hop up problem but its one I cant seem to fix. So far the bb drops to the ground at around 5 meters, and even less when I apply hop. Inside I have a lonex piston+head, stock piston+head stretched and have good compression. Theres a transition piece to make sure the long nozzle gets into the hop up chamber and the chamber has been replaced by a prommy neo strike with a pdi w hold bucking for seal and a rhop in a pdi 05 520mm barrel. The spring is a m130. Ive changed pretty much everything but the problem still happens. The nozzle is proprietary but isnt leaking and I don't really feel air escaping from the hop up and magwell. Im out of ideas for this one and I pretty much want to give it to a decent tech that can fix this if there was anyone actually near. I hope you guys have some idea
  5. That might possibly be it. I'm not sure if the big Diode works that way, but that's the only thing I've ordered from Ebay. The resistors come from a friend who works with X ray machines and the mosfet itself comes from a reputable dutch store. I'll try it out and when it trips I'll check the temperatures.
  6. The entire mosfet is covered in a big shrinktube so I think it's somewhat impossible for that to happen, and both prongs are seperately covered in shrink tube underneath.
  7. Extreme fire schematics. I followed the airsofttutorials tutorial which is the same minus the diode. that one I added myself following extremefire's build. Ill open it up later tonight for pics and will check for a broken insulation. It could be the selector wiring. I used wires from adata or network cable, which is smaller than 20 awg and is regular copper.
  8. Im using a 3034 mosfet but im not exactly sure which one. The battery 7,4v 20c 2000 mah from turnigy so it wasnt anything special.
  9. I made a mosfet following terry's design from unconventional airsoft and tested it about a week ago. the first day everything went fine, but the second day te FET tripped while briefing was going on and the selector was on safe. I quickly unplugged the battery adn after a minute plugged it in again. it didnt instantly start shooting but after a minute it began again. Because of this I don't believe I have a faulty fet but im unsure what it could be.
  10. I have one of these and like they said the m120 has difficulty because of the magnets. that said, the motor gives me a lot of overspin so it often shoots 3/5 shots in semi. putting a cheap high torque is a worthwile upgrade. Mine is still stock except for a tightbore and its shooting around 410/400 fps. I would chrono it first before swapping the spring.
  11. I've been toying with the idea of a budget high speed guide and I want this one to hits the limit of low price and high speed. my absolute max would be 200 including the gun, which costs 104 euros. So far ive selected Royal 13:1 gears with bearings in the axle and a aip hs-50000 motor on a shortstroked m120 spring, removing about 3/4 teeth ball bearing metal spring guide and steel 7mm bushings will be added, as well as a hkme made mosfet copied from Terry's design at unconventionalairsoft. Right now everythings in my budget but im not sure if a high speed combo with 13:1 gears can pull that spring. my field limit is 360 fps with 0,2 grams so I don't have as high a cap as most american fields. My original plan is to use a 11,1v lipo but if I still have PE I will downgrade to 7,4v. Ive seen that motor used with a 11,1v lipo 20c 1200mAh hitting 31 rps with standard gears . Doing 31*18*60 and the answer from that divided by 60 and 13 would mean he would hit 42/43 rps with 13:1 gears if my calculations are somewhat correct. How many removed teeth would lower my fps to below 360 fps, and would that also prevent PE. Edit: something ive forgotten to mention. I have lonex red pistons and a deep fire full metal teeth lying around but I wonder if those would be too heavy even after swiss cheesing. I would prefer using pistons with at least 5 steel teeth as ive never shortstroked before and do not own a dremel. ive seen a tutorial on airsofttutorials using a grinder of sorts. I wonder if that will work.
  12. As far as I know, lipo ready is just a marketing term to make stuff sell better. Have you shimmed your gears correctly, fixed your AoE and relubed the GB ? Does your aeg come with a mosfet and thick wiring ? Those are the things you need to check for starters.
  13. As I've said, I expect the gun to come in with Tamiya's while it's been made 'LiPo Ready'. I will solder them to Deans instead. as for gears, I dislike the SHS for their hit and miss and the ACMs are cheap, perhaps for a reason. I can get my hands on a Lonex gearset, but that would take a nother 2/3 weeks before they are shipped. I don't need the lonex drop in. I have half a gearbox that's as good as new and I can make do with pretty much everything lonex aside from gears.
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